Snes problems!

[Ethamn]

Me and my little brother were playing Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles 4 Turtles in Time and the day before, we played the game and had no problems but when we played today it was acting strange. While in the middle of fighting our turtles would begin to walk different directions, jump, and would pause the game even when we didn't press anything it would just do it by itself. The console is a new Retroduo (not an Snes) but plays Snes, Nes, and Sega Genesis games. We don't know if its the controllers or the system. Also i cleaned the cartridge with Brasso metal polisher.

[bigbacon]

retro duo is just a hardware emulator and it may or may not play the games correctly though that almost sounds like the controller(s) and/or controller ports but does it do this in any other game? Try some other two player games to rule that out also.

[Ethamn]

I've played two games and both work fine.

[JakeM]

Well that is a "ehhhhhh" emulator system. I can play TIT without glitches on my computer, the retro consoles i dont like because the 3 in one (Genesis, NES and SNES) console they made after that makes it so you cant slide down hills in SMB 3 like on a NES or computer emulator. Its effy but can play other games fine and some others not fine.

Theyre coming out with a 5th one and it looks bad ass, hopefully now theyve perfected the emulation and itll be a great machine. But the ones that are out now I dont like, but theres hope.

[BlastProcessing402]

Try and get some other controllers to try. First party Nintendo if you can.

If that doesn't help, you can always get a real SNES. They're not expensive, and then you'll know your games will run right.

[Atarileaf]

This thread title is disingenuous.

[Tanooki]

This thread title is disingenuous.

Why? Because its a retro duo problem and not a real snes? The duo is a junky system in a chip setup that's isn't 100% right by any means. It's in emulator, a piss poor hardware simulator sure. Retron5 would be the first multi system emulator in a box using real games whenever it shows up.

[Atarileaf]

Why? Because its a retro duo problem and not a real snes?

Yes, obviously.

[Ethamn]

This thread title is disingenuous.

Sorry about the title being misleading or incorrect

[Metalwario64]

Also i cleaned the cartridge with Brasso metal polisher.

That could be a problem, though I'm pretty sure it doesn't relate to yours.

I strongly advise against using polish to "clean" cartridges. Polishes are abrasives that wear down slight layers of the surface their intended for away to buff out scratches and other dinks. Using that on the thinly plated cartridge contacts can strip that gold plating away, exposing the raw (nickle?) contacts, which can cause more harm than good, such as hastened oxidation. I imagine overuse of Brasso could even wear down the contacts themselves.

Just stick with alcohol for standard cleaning, and use erasers to clear away thicker grit and dirt on the contacts. I'd only recommend polish for extremely oxidized and damaged contacts, but even then, it's not to different from using extremely fine sandpaper. In fact extremely fine sandpaper might not quite be as damaging as Brasso.

It's disheartening seeing so many videos and "tutorials" recommending Brasso to clean your contacts with, not knowing that it's damaging these games that aren't being produced anymore. It seems more and more I see or hear about people using Brasso on their games, and it makes me cautious about buying used games that might have worn contacts from a seller who didn't know how to clean the games properly.

[Polygon]

That could be a problem, though I'm pretty sure it doesn't relate to yours.

I strongly advise against using polish to "clean" cartridges. Polishes are abrasives that wear down slight layers of the surface their intended for away to buff out scratches and other dinks. Using that on the thinly plated cartridge contacts can strip that gold plating away, exposing the raw (nickle?) contacts, which can cause more harm than good, such as hastened oxidation. I imagine overuse of Brasso could even wear down the contacts themselves.

Just stick with alcohol for standard cleaning, and use erasers to clear away thicker grit and dirt on the contacts. I'd only recommend polish for extremely oxidized and damaged contacts, but even then, it's not to different from using extremely fine sandpaper. In fact extremely fine sandpaper might not quite be as damaging as Brasso.

It's disheartening seeing so many videos and "tutorials" recommending Brasso to clean your contacts with, not knowing that it's damaging these games that aren't being produced anymore. It seems more and more I see or hear about people using Brasso on their games, and it makes me cautious about buying used games that might have worn contacts from a seller who didn't know how to clean the games properly.

Wrong!

Different polishes have different levels of abrasion. Also, the contacts are not plated in gold. At least that's the general consensus. Now, I've had ISO (rubbing alcohol) be ineffective at cleaning many games. I've cleaned ALL my cartridge based games using metal polish and as long as I take care of them correctly, I shouldn't ever have to again. Also, polish is nowhere near the same level of abrasion as using fine grit sandpaper. Now, I've never used Brasso. I use a polish from the Nintendo Repair shop. It's very thin and it works great. What's disheartening is people making claims against a process without any proof. And anyone that would claim that ANY grit of sandpaper might not be as damaging as polish, well I would say their OPINION is very suspect as they obviously don't know much. If you're going to make these claims, I suggest you post proof that Brasso is actually causing the failure of a game. Also, as I said, not all polishes are the same. Some polishes are meant for certain metals. In Brasso's case, brass. Also, pencil erasers? I bet you think using WD-40 is a great idea too?

All of my games work and they've all been cleaned using polish. In fact, my NES game all work first time, every time since cleaning them. When before they had a lot of problems working. Also, the NES is untouched internally since the day it was opened for Toys R' Us. It hasn't even been cleaned. Here's some picture evidence of a copy of Megaman 2 which had some heavy corrosion and it required a lot of pressure, and two passes to get it off. From looking at them, the so called "gold" is still there.

[Metalwario64]

It's very thin and it works great. What's disheartening is people making claims against a process without any proof.

Then that's probably why your polish works for you. Brasso, in my experience, is strong stuff. Perhaps I was in the wrong for making a blanket statement towards all polishes, but I'm only talking from experience; I'm not going to go out and try other polishes after a bad experience with the first.

Actually, I have heard that Brasso used to be weaker, and it worked good for getting grit off of contacts, but they altered the formula a few years ago, and now it's too abrasive. I imagine a very thinned polish as you use could work for really dirty contacts. I'd still recommend alcohol for more standard cleanings. I even said I wouldn't be against polish as a last resort.

Using polish for every day cleanings will eventually wear down the contacts though. Even on your images, the polished one seems very slightly faded, though Brasso was more damaging in my experience.

And anyone that would claim that ANY grit of sandpaper might not be as damaging as polish, well I would say their OPINION is very suspect as they obviously don't know much.

I put plastic models together, and have many different grits of sandpaper. I've used some extremely fine sandpaper that is so fine that it becomes useless after a few strokes. It's barely any more rough than my T-shirts. In my experience with Brasso, that's about the same result you'd get. It seems to me that wouldn't be any worse than Brasso, though I admit to not having tested it (nor do I intend to).

I suggest you post proof that Brasso is actually causing the failure of a game.

I've actually used it before and it stripped the plating away, resulting in silver contacts. I never said it was making his game function improperly if that's what you were implying.

Also, pencil erasers? I bet you think using WD-40 is a great idea too?

I never said "pencil erasers". I've heard the recommendation of erasers (white, I think) throughout the years as a viable method for getting gunk out without being too abrasive. I've used them without stripping the plating away, unlike Brasso.

Now, I've never used Brasso

You say you've never used Brasso, yet I have. I really don't think you should have jumped all over me, saying I "obviously don't know much"... I don't think too highly of myself, but I can at least speak from experience, can't I?

[Polygon]

Then that's probably why your polish works for you. Brasso, in my experience, is strong stuff. Perhaps I was in the wrong for making a blanket statement towards all polishes, but I'm only talking from experience; I'm not going to go out and try other polishes after a bad experience with the first.

Actually, I have heard that Brasso used to be weaker, and it worked good for getting grit off of contacts, but they altered the formula a few years ago, and now it's too abrasive. I imagine a very thinned polish as you use could work for really dirty contacts. I'd still recommend alcohol for more standard cleanings. I even said I wouldn't be against polish as a last resort.

Using polish for every day cleanings will eventually wear down the contacts though. Even on your images, the polished one seems very slightly faded, though Brasso was more damaging in my experience.

No, you shouldn't have generalized. Like I told you, different polishes are made for different metals. Brasso is a brass polish. There is no brass on those contacts, so I wouldn't use it for that reason alone. Also, I never suggested cleaning your contacts on a regular basis with polish. If you read my last post again, you'll see that I said you should clean all your contacts with the polish once and then you won't ever have to again, given you take care of them properly.

I put plastic models together, and have many different grits of sandpaper. I've used some extremely fine sandpaper that is so fine that it becomes useless after a few strokes. It's barely any more rough than my T-shirts. In my experience with Brasso, that's about the same result you'd get. It seems to me that wouldn't be any worse than Brasso, though I admit to not having tested it (nor do I intend to).

I work on cars and I use sandpaper all the time. I very aware of the very fine grit sandpapers. However, it doesn't matter what grit of sandpaper you use it's going to be more abrasive than any polish. You can't have something that creates scratches be more abrasive than something that removes them. It's that simple. Sandpaper is my pet peeve with game cleaning. You should never get it anywhere near your game contacts. There's no reason to. Like I said before, the issue probably lies with using the wrong polish on the wrong metal.

I've actually used it before and it stripped the plating away, resulting in silver contacts. I never said it was making his game function improperly if that's what you were implying.

Very well. So, it's stripped the plating away. Does the game work? Have you seen signs of hastened oxidation or problems? If not, you're just making conjecture speculation. In reality there is no documentation on what the plating consisted of or what metal the contacts are made of. However, the contacts are not thin, and no amount of polish is going to wear them away. Until I see actual damage and problems, then I will agree with you about Brasso. Like I said though, I still won't use it because it's meant for brass. Also, we have polish out there made for the contacts which is what I use.

I never said "pencil erasers". I've heard the recommendation of erasers (white, I think) throughout the years as a viable method for getting gunk out without being too abrasive. I've used them without stripping the plating away, unlike Brasso.

Semantics. They're the same thing. When I was a kid I used erasers to clean my slot car tracks. It actually worked. However, it doesn't work for really dirty contacts. It leaves a film on the contacts. And little pieces of eraser get everywhere. So, it not anymore effective than ISO. I leaves crap on the contacts you would have to clean off. And it leaves a mess everywhere. I fail to see the point of using them in this case. Just use ISO as it will clean as well as the eraser will without leaving a mess and film on the contacts.

You say you've never used Brasso, yet I have. I really don't think you should have jumped all over me, saying I "obviously don't know much"... I don't think too highly of myself, but I can at least speak from experience, can't I?

Sure, you have. However, you claim it has damaged your games yet they still work. You claim it will result in hastened oxidation, yet you have no proof of that either. You didn't just call out Brasso, you went after ALL polishes not understanding there are different polishes for different metals. You claimed the contacts are plated in gold which they're not. You claimed the contacts are thin and made of nickel, which they're not thin and we don't know what metal they're made of. You claimed that polish can be more abrasive than sandpaper which it cannot.

You formed an opinion based on conjecture and speculation, without any proof, then tried to pass it off as fact and it really gets on my nerves when people do that. That is why I called you out and said you don't know much. Your post proves that you don't know much.

[Metalwario64]

Also, I never suggested cleaning your contacts on a regular basis with polish. If you read my last post again

I never said you did. I brought that up because I've seen people all over the internet say they do, which eventually will wear the contacts down. I perhaps wrongly assumed the original topic creator did this because he "cleaned" it with polish, when I've seen people say they use polish for every day cleanings.

Perhaps that was wrong on my part.

I also apologize for making a blanket statement towards all polishes, so please stop being to mad at me about that.

I work on cars and I use sandpaper all the time. I very aware of the very fine grit sandpapers. However, it doesn't matter what grit of sandpaper you use it's going to be more abrasive than any polish. You can't have something that creates scratches be more abrasive than something that removes them. It's that simple. Sandpaper is my pet peeve with game cleaning. You should never get it anywhere near your game contacts. There's no reason to.

Well, I wasn't really recommending it, but saying that their wear on the contacts would probably be around the same level as Brasso's; I was taking a guess based around the results I received.

But I agree that you're right that it wouldn't be good for the cartridge, so I admit that I was wrong in making that assumption.

Like I said before, the issue probably lies with using the wrong polish on the wrong metal.

Indeed.

Semantics. They're the same thing. When I was a kid I used erasers to clean my slot car tracks. It actually worked. However, it doesn't work for really dirty contacts. It leaves a film on the contacts. And little pieces of eraser get everywhere. So, it not anymore effective than ISO. I leaves crap on the contacts you would have to clean off. And it leaves a mess everywhere. I fail to see the point of using them in this case. Just use ISO as it will clean as well as the eraser will without leaving a mess and film on the contacts.

Well, I've heard that pencil erasers are more damaging than white ones (or is it the other way around?), so I figured that was what you were referring to when you made that paragraph insulting my intelligence.

I assumed it was okay to use erasers since I've even seen it recommended here recently by people who've been here for years.

You claimed the contacts are plated in gold which they're not.

I'm not going to lie and say I'm a genius about electronics (I do admit to not knowing much in that field, and am mostly going off of what I've heard throughout the years). I've heard of PCB connecters being plated in gold, but I've heard it disputed throughout many forums.

Are they copper plated or what kind of plating do they have?

Well, just found this on Wikipedia's NES page, and it has a citation:

the game cartridge copper connectors were also prone to tarnishing.

Not sure if it means the underlying contacts are copper, or if they're plated in copper. I'm trying to learn here.

You claimed the contacts are thin and made of nickel, which they're not thin and we don't know what metal they're made of.

I didn't say the contacts were thin. I said they were "thinly plated", meaning the plating surface was thin, which I've read is common on PCBs.

You formed an opinion based on conjecture and speculation, without any proof, then tried to pass it off as fact and it really gets on my nerves when people do that. That is why I called you out and said you don't know much. Your post proves that you don't know much.

Sure, you have. However, you claim it has damaged your games yet they still work. You claim it will result in hastened oxidation, yet you have no proof of that either.

Wikipedia:

The places to which components will be mounted are typically plated, because untreated bare copper oxidizes quickly

Since you say it's not nickel and gold I don't know how applicable this is, but it does say the plating helps prevent oxidation:

Wikipedia:

Electroless nickel immersion gold (ENIG) is a type of surface plating used for printed circuit boards. It consists of an electroless nickel plating covered with a thin layer of immersion gold, which protects the nickel from oxidation.

I've always heard that plating was done on contacts to prevent oxidation, so I assume the same is the case with the NES contacts.

If we don't know what material the NES actually uses for the PCB contacts, then we can't be sure either way, but as you said, a single polishing to rid a filthy cartridge of the is all you need, which I even said could be used as a last resort in my first post, which was when I was alluding to people who use it all the time on their cartridges, which I've indeed seen.

Your post proves that you don't know much.

Well, I'm trying to learn...

[Niku-Sama]

a safe bet for cleaning if you can gain access to the guts of the cart is a high polymer eraser.

old computer cleaning trick, applies here though.
it removes contact corrosion from a bi-metal connection as well as much other things.

also it leaves a bit behind so its not exposed to air but doesent hinder connections, plus, its rubber.

a polymerized rubber but still rubber and not conductive should something go astray.
if i remember i'll post some half and half pics of a dirty cart