So, I have been battling my NES for a few months now, and sadly, I think she is about to hit the dust. My question for you all is this: is the toploading NES that much more reliable? I know people often say it is, but why?
So, I have been battling my NES for a few months now, and sadly, I think she is about to hit the dust. My question for you all is this: is the toploading NES that much more reliable? I know people often say it is, but why?
I think the front-loading NES has gotten the reputation for being unreliable, but really its just the pin connector that either gets dirty or worn out. The pins in the original nintendo can easily be replaced, but I dont think thats the case with the toploader. The pins in toploading Nintendos will eventually wear down with use. I have found multiple non-working toploading nintendos so they will not last forever. It seems like the pins in original nintendos go bad from abuse or excessive use without cleaning. Original Nintendo pins in good condition will last a long time as long as you clean all the games.
Also you gotta keep in mind that Toploaders do not have AV video, just RF. If you switch over to a toploader nintendo you might be disappointed with the video quality. You can have them modded for AV out but thats extra work.
With what is currently out there now, it depends.
If you're ok straightening the pins on a 72pin connector using a pin, or popping it out and boiling it for a few minutes to 'reset' the quality of the pins to like new, you're better off just doing that and cutting PIN4 on the 10NES chip. Doing those 2 things will make it superior to the top loader because it has an RCA jack and doesn't suffer from RF interference (aka: jailbars.)
If you're not, then you get the top loader and save the hassle but lose some picture quality being stuck on RF, or you pay up for one and more for a modder to make it RCA capable.
Personally I went with a good deal at the time(far better now) top loader with 3 mods (rca jacks, stereo sound separation wheel, and a little led under the power switch so it glows red.) That system outperforms a stock classic system across the board, but if I were in front of two bare systems right now, I'd take the original and do the fixes myself as I've done it before and it lasts.
Just use a front-loader, replace the connector if necessary, and disable the CIC chip. I have no major problems with mine. If a game doesn't make good contact because of the lack of self-cleaning abrasion from the ZIF socket, all you need to do is make sure the cartridge is in the down position, and wiggle it side to side quickly using your fingertips for a couple of seconds. For a really dirty cartridge, use the proper bit to open it up and clean it.
I used to swear by the front loader untill I actually got a top loader, now I would never go back. I spent so much time ripping apart and bending pins and cleaning them. Worked great as long as I religiously cleaned every game every single time.
So with my top loader I can start up any game I want after having not used it for 6 months and know it's going to work perfectly. (I also a/v modded for jail bars)
Have you seen the Blinking Light Win Kickstarter yet?
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects...cting-your-nes
This looks like a good solution for your old toaster.
I've been doing the boiling of the pin connector on my Toasters and they work GREAT. Ii had a couple of top loaders laying around. Sold them for big money. Stock they are garbage. RF doesn't bother me. It's the jailbars.
With the advent of the Blinking Light Win, this discussion will, hopefully, soon be over. Providing the Blinking Light Win works, why would anyone now shell out X amount of cash for an Toploader AV mod when they can snag this for $20?
Yeah, if the Blinking Light Win works WELL this could be epic. No more shitty replacement pins, no more deathgrip.
Toploader mods are cool, and the actual mod job isnt really all that expensive. The main problem is that if you mail your system to someone you gotta pay shipping there and back, which adds like 40-60$.