Videogame criticism is far less evolved than film or music criticism. It's understandable, condiering that games have only been around for a generation, while movies have existed for a century. And I'm sure back in caveman days, there was some guy complaining that Grok's rock-beats weren't as good as Ugh's.
Game magazines in the States are toy cataloges. They're aimed at children and teenagers, written by fanboys who are just pinching themselves for getting to play videogames for a living. It's a nice racket if you can find it.
I don't know where game critics will evolve, or if it will ever evolve at all. I believe there is a great amount of artistic merit to games, and the people who create them deserve much greater exposure. There should be more discussion than "the graphics are awesome." As always, I point to zines like Digital Press and long-deceased prozines like VG&CE.
Game reviews should offer more than fanboy-ish gushing and childish sex jokes There should be at least a basic knowledge of the history of the medium and the people responsible for it. And for the love of Elvis, write a complete sentence.
Where are there some good review websites? Besides my site, I mean. Ahem.