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View Full Version : ?? for those that took the CV power switch apart



BOTTLEDZ28
12-17-2007, 05:44 PM
I just took the power switch apart from the motorboard on my colecoviosn to clean it and lube it up but now that its back together, its so much worse then what it was when I started. There is 2 small metal contacts inside the switch that I lubed up with dielectric grease. I then reassemble everything and it feels a lot smoother. A little to smooth. I took it back apart and the contact are not broken. They are just compressed now and I think that is my problem. Anyone have this issue before?

BOTTLEDZ28
12-17-2007, 07:47 PM
Ok, I just replaced the switch AGAIN. Same problem. I 100% need to replace this PIS switch. I just need quidance on what type of new switch I need. single pole, single throw? dual dual? 6 pins? amperage? volts?

omnedon
12-18-2007, 11:32 AM
It's very tricky work. It took a lot of practice here to get the method down. Skip the grease, sand or dremel the contacts, and make sure it's put back together tightly.

You are 100% sure the AC adapter is good? A bad AC can mimic switch failure.

BOTTLEDZ28
12-18-2007, 03:05 PM
I am 100% sure the adapter is good. I just bought a NEW one and tested it with a multimeter before plugging it in. Everything checked out. I know for a fact that the switch is faulty because I took it apart and cleaned it up and now that it is back together, it is a LOT easier to slide it. It seems like there is too much play in it. I can wiggle the switch around and doing this makes the screen go wacky. Every once in a while, I can wiggle just right to get a pretty good picture with decent sound. I just have to fiddle with the switch for a few minutes to get it to work. I just want the thing to be tighter. The two contacts inside seem to be the problem. What makes the unit turn on? There are 6 contact points on the switches body, 3 on each side. I assume that 2 on each side need to make contact to one another for the unit to power up or down right?

omnedon
12-19-2007, 11:02 AM
Yes.

The CV is very fussy about it's power. It needs it's power cleanly, and when powered on, it's expects both rails exactly simultaneously. If the switch has any play, you will get noise, garbled graphics, etc. It has to be exactly right.

I've done more than 100, and once in a while it still gives me grief.

BOTTLEDZ28
12-19-2007, 01:52 PM
well I have tried opening the contacts up a bit but it doesnt seems to get any better. What is your method for making the switch tighter once it is assembled?

omnedon
12-19-2007, 05:14 PM
Make sure the contacts are correctly, and make sure the crimping tines are bent under the switch platform enough to hold everything nice and snug (but not too tight).


There is always the possibility that there is something else wrong with the system.

BOTTLEDZ28
12-19-2007, 09:01 PM
well I know the system is not 100% but I also know the switch is the main problem right now. The system worked pretty good before I went and messed with the switch. I only messed with it because the I had a constant static sound from the audio. I unsoldered one side of the switch and bent it up. I pulled the switch apart and cleaned it up. I put the contacts back and then resoldered the case to the board. I just put pressure on the case and soldered it back up. I never bent those tins under the switch since I never messed with them to begin with. I will retry this over again and see what happens