Help with Monitor Discoloration

[SegaAges]

I am a noob with this stuff, but willing to try anything.

Let me explain the issue as clearly as possible.

On my cab, it seems as though the red is intermittent. The red will go out, and then randomly it will come back in.

I think it might be a loose wire somewhere, as if I am getting into a game a getting a little hard on my buttons or joysticks, the red will come back in sometimes. I have not hit my arcade machine (even though I have thought of it), but I am 99% sure that the red would temporarily come back if I did that.

What kind of stuff can I check?

The very first thing I did check was to ensure that the jamma board was securely in the jamma harness.

After I check what you suggest, if that does not help. what else can I check?

[jb143]

It could be a part (on the red signal circutry) going bad. Maybe just a cap. A loose wire would probally make the red either be there or not..or flicker, instead of randomly comming and going. Unless of course that's what it's doing.

[XYXZYZ]

getting a little hard on

I wonder what a Sengoku Blade board runs for... ROFL

What I would do, and this isn't necessarily what you would do, is to run the machine with the back door off (hopefully you have access to the board with your cabinet style) set up a mirror where you can see the screen from behind the cabinet, get a wooden or plastic stick, and start gently poking capacitors, wiggle some wires and stuff and see if there is a response on the screen. Sometimes that's a pretty good way to rout out the culprit.

[Peale]

There are many reasons for intermitent colour. Try the wiring first, you may have a loose connection. Next check the input pins, you may have a cold solder joint. Also check the neckboard transistors, something could be wrong with them.

[SegaAges]

Yeah, I will have to give the wires a little wiggle to see if that is the problem. I don't just want to up and buy a cap kit when the problem could be something else.

[Arcade Antics]

Yeah, I will have to give the wires a little wiggle to see if that is the problem. I don't just want to up and buy a cap kit when the problem could be something else.

If it's not a new monitor, you should probably do one anyway.

[SegaAges]

Oh, the monitor is very old. I just never wanted to do the cap kit because this is my first cab and I am a little nervous about fucking around with the monitor (I have seen too many warnings about it).

I do not mind learning, how bad is it to do a cap kit for somebody that is not very experienced with soldering and working on their first cab?

[SegaAges]

Ok, I know that it is not a loose connection.

I was playing some steep slope sliders tonight and the red stopped. After I finished my game, I shut off my arcade machine, let it sit for a couple minutes, and then turned it back on and the color was back.

If there was a loose connection when I did not touch anything, the color should have stayed the same.

Honestly, I hope it is not the monitor itself, because I am unsure how possible it would even be to remove the monitor.

Could a cap kit fix something like this?

Also, how hard is it to install a cap kit without electrocuting myself?

[Arcade Antics]

Ok, I know that it is not a loose connection.

I was playing some steep slope sliders tonight and the red stopped. After I finished my game, I shut off my arcade machine, let it sit for a couple minutes, and then turned it back on and the color was back.

If there was a loose connection when I did not touch anything, the color should have stayed the same.
But you *did* touch something when you turned it on and off. The only way to rule out a loose connection is to check all the connections.


Also, how hard is it to install a cap kit without electrocuting myself?
It's not possible to electrocute yourself when you install the new caps. But you can majorly shock yourself when you go to discharge the monitor if you don't do it properly. Make sure you read up on it and watch tutorial videos on youtube or whatever until you're sure you know what you're doing. It's not difficult, but you do have to be very careful.

First discharge the monitor, then disconnect the monitor boards, then install the cap kit.

[shawnbo42]

The first place I'd start is with what kind of monitor you're dealing with here. If you've got a wells-gardner, (very common monitor board on older machines) they are well-known for having cold solder joints on the red input pin. Check where your video plugs in to the monitor board. Assuming you have a wells board, it'll be on the edge of the board, most likely the right hand side if you're standing behind the machne looking at the monitor board.

You'll probably want to touch up all the connections on there as well while you're in there. That most likely (again, assuming you are dealing with a wells-gardner monitor board) will correct your problem. If this is your problem, what's happeneing is that the solder heats up enough to "fall away" from the board, and your red goes out. When it cools enough, the solder "pulls in" and makes the connection again. And now you've got red back. Then it heats up, and....you understand where I'm going, right?

That's my 2 cents' worth, start with that, and if you could post some pics of your monitor, that'd be a big help.

[SegaAges]

The first place I'd start is with what kind of monitor you're dealing with here. If you've got a wells-gardner, (very common monitor board on older machines) they are well-known for having cold solder joints on the red input pin. Check where your video plugs in to the monitor board. Assuming you have a wells board, it'll be on the edge of the board, most likely the right hand side if you're standing behind the machne looking at the monitor board.

You'll probably want to touch up all the connections on there as well while you're in there. That most likely (again, assuming you are dealing with a wells-gardner monitor board) will correct your problem. If this is your problem, what's happeneing is that the solder heats up enough to "fall away" from the board, and your red goes out. When it cools enough, the solder "pulls in" and makes the connection again. And now you've got red back. Then it heats up, and....you understand where I'm going, right?

That's my 2 cents' worth, start with that, and if you could post some pics of your monitor, that'd be a big help.

Wow, very informative. I do not own a digi cam (yeah, I know), but my friend that is coming over tonight does. I will make him grab his camera and take pictures of the monitor.

I will be honest, I have no clue what kind of monitor it is. Like I said, I am a noob with arcades, but I am more than willing to learn.

EDIT: I took pictures of the inside in the back, and shit, it is dusty. Like very bad. Like a coat of dust. Is there anything besides one of those air blower things that you use on pc's I should be using, or is one of those cool?

[shawnbo42]

You can use a can of compressed air to alean off the dust on the monitor, an air compressor works better (more pressure) if you have one available. I have seen posts of people washing their monitors (as in, take the entire tube out of the cabinet, set it on the ground, Simple Green it, and hose it off.) If you ever go that route, your monitor will look brand new, BUT make absolutely certain it is COMPLETELY dry before applying power.

As an admitted newb here, just stick with air. It'll get enough of the dust off the monitor to allow you to do what you have to do in there. That is one of your prime enemies with monitors, btw. Dust can act as an insulator, and cause heat buildup on the circuit board, which eventually leads to component failure. Keeping your monitor as clean and well-vented as possible will greatly increase your monitor's lifespan, and cause you less headaches down the road. We'll be waiting for pics!!!

[SegaAges]

You can use a can of compressed air to alean off the dust on the monitor, an air compressor works better (more pressure) if you have one available. I have seen posts of people washing their monitors (as in, take the entire tube out of the cabinet, set it on the ground, Simple Green it, and hose it off.) If you ever go that route, your monitor will look brand new, BUT make absolutely certain it is COMPLETELY dry before applying power.

As an admitted newb here, just stick with air. It'll get enough of the dust off the monitor to allow you to do what you have to do in there. That is one of your prime enemies with monitors, btw. Dust can act as an insulator, and cause heat buildup on the circuit board, which eventually leads to component failure. Keeping your monitor as clean and well-vented as possible will greatly increase your monitor's lifespan, and cause you less headaches down the road. We'll be waiting for pics!!!

I went ahead and finally took pics of my room of doom as well, so I am doing everything at once. I will have it all online, hopefully, tonight

Here are the pics:
photobucket link (http://s184.photobucket.com/albums/x257/Stregano/)

I have my collection photos on there as well that I am going to be putting on videogamecollectors.com, but the first pictures are of my arcade machine and taking pics of the inside. Remember what I said, it is super dusty.

[SegaAges]

I found the issue. The wires that go from the jamma harness to the video board are messed up. A small wiggle and the problem comes right back.

I am going to get some new wires tomorrow and replace them.

[Peale]

You don't need new wires, you need to fix the connection problem.

On which end of the JAMMA harness does this happen? If it's on the PCB side, pull the harness and examine those specific pins. Look at the board too. Anything unusual there?

If it's on the monitor side, it could be the aforementioned pins on the connector, or a broken solder joint on the monitor itself.

[SegaAges]

You don't need new wires, you need to fix the connection problem.

On which end of the JAMMA harness does this happen? If it's on the PCB side, pull the harness and examine those specific pins. Look at the board too. Anything unusual there?

If it's on the monitor side, it could be the aforementioned pins on the connector, or a broken solder joint on the monitor itself.

It is in on monitor side.

so wiggling wires very gently and them fucking up the colors could still be the solder joints?

I assumed at that point it would be the wires and/or the connection.

[Peale]

It's almost certainly the solder joints. It's a common problem.

Touch them all up and see if your problem goes away. If not, it's probably the harness, and it'll have to be repinned. Easy job if you have the pins and the crimper.

[diskoboy]

I agree with Peale and shawnbo....

If it's a Wells Gardner, they are notorious for having cold soldier joints.

Can you ID the monitor model? If it's a K4600, get ready to put yourself through hell... They are an absolute pain in the ass to fix. Whoever designed it obviously didn't keep servicing in mind.

[SegaAges]

The only thing that gets me nervous is removing the neck board from the tube. Does it really just pull off?

also, how does it re attach after it is pulled off?

[shawnbo42]

Yep, it really pulls off. Just apply even pressure on both sides, and don't go nuts. Just pull gently, with steady force, and it'll pop right off. To reattach it, you just line up the pins, and plug it back in. Just make sure you don't miss a pin when you re-attach it, but it's pretty good about going back on. I've very rarely had a problem if ever.

[diskoboy]

Before we start worrying about the tube....

HAVE YOU DISCHARGED IT YET?

this is absolutely essential before you start ANY work on a monitor. THIS is the scariest part of monitor work - ask anyone who has done it. The first time can be very intimidating. I've done it dozens of times, and it still makes me nervous.

Even unplugged for a long period of time, those things can hold a charge that'll send you flying clean across the room.

[Peale]

Before we start worrying about the tube....

HAVE YOU DISCHARGED IT YET?

this is absolutely essential before you start ANY work on a monitor. THIS is the scariest part of monitor work - ask anyone who has done it. The first time can be very intimidating. I've done it dozens of times, and it still makes me nervous.

Even unplugged for a long period of time, those things can hold a charge that'll send you flying clean across the room.

This is one of those urban myths that continue to self-perpetuate. Yes, a tube will hold a charge - sometimes for years. Usually painful yes, but I've never heard of one being lethal.

The only time a monitor should be discharged is before work, that is correct. Just don't consider removing the monitor from a cab, or replacing it back, to be work.

And as long as you follow the same basic rules every time you discharge, it doesn't have to be nerve-wracking.

1) The discharge unit should be connected to the frame of the monitor. Not to an earth ground on an outlet! Even better would be to connect it to the spring that touches the aquadag (the black coating) on the tube.

2) the monitor is OFF, and UNPLUGGED. I've heard stories where people actually tried discharging a monitor while it was on. I don't think they did that again!

3) a lot of people recommend to put one hand in your pocket and use the other to discharge. I say that's a bad idea. Be cognizant of where your other hand is, on the side of the cab if the monitor is still in the cab, or on the bench if it's not, but a free hand is always a good idea, not stuck where you can't use it if you have to.

4) slide the probe under the anode cap. It may snap, it may not! Either way, if you feel yourself hit something underneath, you're done. LEAVE THE PROBE THERE FOR A FEW SECONDS. Don't discharge, pull out...walk away...discharge again...pull out...walk away...a perfect example of time wasted.

5) with the probe still under the cap, use your free hand to peel the cap back so you can see the retaining clip. Then use the probe to compress the clip and pop it out.

6) do the work on your monitor.

7) discharge the tube again before replacing the anode clip. It may do something, it may not. Do yourself a favor and use the probe to compress the clip back into place.

All in all, this procedure should take no more than 30 seconds. I'll repeat that - THIS SHOULD TAKE NO MORE THAN 30 SECONDS (work on chassis not included).

The most important thing is following these steps - the first time, and every time, and not deviating.

[SegaAges]

I have done my very first discharge. It was before I knew that the neck board pulled off.

What I did was used a speaker wire, got it on the monitor chassis (a piece of metal holding the monitor in) and then the other side of the wire I wrapped around the metal of a screwdriver. I stuck it in and did not hear anything, I kept it on there for a few seconds, and then when there was no sound, I used the screwdriver to compress the clip holding it in and pulled it off.

I actually got to learn how to put everything back together as well. I truly did not know that the neck board came off, so I thought I was screwed, but luckily I can still get that taken care of.

[Peale]

Do you really need to see or hear about someone dropping dead as a result of not discharging it, just to prove your urban myth theory? Unless you think having a few thousand volts across your chest couldn't possibly kill anyone, I suggest taking the few seconds to discharge it.

Until I hear otherwise, I stand by my statement. Yes, discharge if you're going to work on it. No, do not discharge if you're just going to move it. Yes, be smart and don't intentionally put a huge electric shock into your heart (it can stop your heart and kill you).

Again, THINK about what you're doing AS you're doing it.

[Peale]

What I did was used a speaker wire, got it on the monitor chassis (a piece of metal holding the monitor in) and then the other side of the wire I wrapped around the metal of a screwdriver. I stuck it in and did not hear anything, I kept it on there for a few seconds, and then when there was no sound, I used the screwdriver to compress the clip holding it in and pulled it off.

Good show!

[Peale]

FYI he wasn't talking about moving the machine but rather putting a cap kit in.

And I was talking about discharge rules in general.

[Peale]

You do NOT need to discharge if you're only removing a monitor from a cabinet. Any work that involves removing the chassis from the tube then yes, you should discharge before andode removal, and after.

If you don't believe me, ask Ken Layton. If you don't already know who he is, he's a tech that's been in the industry for nearly 30 years. He's forgotten more about coin op then I'll ever know - and truth be told I don't think he's ever forgotten anything. He can give you exact model numbers for a ton of monitors, tell you quirks about each model, and then a part-by-part breakdown. He's mostly on BYOAC, KLOV and the Vendor Amusement message board.

[Peale]

No, you don't *have* to if you're only removing it. Is it safer to do so? Hell yes, no matter what you or Ken say. Sometimes the *outside* of the tube has a charge on it - be it due to cheap construction, age, damage, etc. And with the whole monitor chassis being metal, anything is possible.

I gotta admit, I didn't think anyone could be so goddamn pissy over a safety precaution that takes a few seconds to do, and has nothing but a positive benefit for everyone involved. I was wrong.

Pissy? I have not sworn once, I'm not using objective language, precisely how have I been "pissy?"

And I'll take Ken's word over just about anyone's in regards to repair and safety in regards to arcade machines.

[SegaAges]

simmer down ladies, hehehe

i am going to solder the cold solder joint here tomorrow since i finally have a free day, and i will let you guys know how it goes. hell, i might even do it today.

if i still have fucked up color, we can go from there

[Peale]

Seriously, you now have to resort to namecalling? Then I'm glad you can't see me. And if that's all it takes to be added to your "list" your list must be pretty long.

I also never assumed anything...I only asked you a simple question. Nice deflection.

It's not about the length of time to do it - of course it only takes a few seconds. It's the fact that doing it UNNECESSARILY can also have it's consequences.


I don't care what you or Ken say, you never assume a monitor is discharged before doing anything with it.

One word: "duh". Neither of us stated that at all. We're both stating that you always discharge before doing any work. Ken doesn't use a screwdriver with a wire, he always uses a high voltage probe.

For anyone else that's reading: Ken is a service tech with over 30 years of experience in the coin op repair field. For anyone in the business, his word is The Gospel when it comes to service and repair.

Now, on to some actual content:


i am going to solder the cold solder joint here tomorrow since i finally have a free day, and i will let you guys know how it goes. hell, i might even do it today.

Excellent. This will probably sort you right out. This region is particularly noted for broken joints due to insertion and removal of the harness.

[SegaAges]

Ok, 2 things:

1.) can I request you guys take that argument somewhere else. I am getting assistance by both of you, which is appreciated, and I don't want this thread to get locked from 2 other people.

2.) I am going to start small tomorrow. I am going to resolder the solder joints just under where the harness plugs into the video board. hopefully that does the trick

[Peale]

Ok, 2 things:

1.) can I request you guys take that argument somewhere else. I am getting assistance by both of you, which is appreciated, and I don't want this thread to get locked from 2 other people.

No worries mate; I think he's done.

Post back when you've touched up those joints and let us know how you did.

Have you soldered before? If not, you will want to practice on something you don't care about. Like tinning wires, or an old scrap circuit board.

[SegaAges]

No worries mate; I think he's done.

Post back when you've touched up those joints and let us know how you did.

Have you soldered before? If not, you will want to practice on something you don't care about. Like tinning wires, or an old scrap circuit board.

Yeah, I am going to do some practice on an old scrapped motherboard

[Peale]

Good choice. Practice on the caps since they're thru-hole.

[SegaAges]

Yeah, I need more practice. I did nothing with my board today. I am going to continue to practice on that motherboard.

Ok, so I am not going to be messing with the soldering that deals with a small piece of the pin on the bottom?

Those are super hard for me to solder.

Some of the other ones, I thought I was doing good, and the solder point would look good, but the solder point next to it would turn a little brownish.

[Peale]

What kind of soldering iron do you have? Solder?

Remember to heat the part, not the solder.

[Ken Layton]

SegaAges:

You have a Wells-Gardner k7000 series monitor. Your exact model number is on that paper label next to the video/sync input connector. Your pictures were out of focus, but it looks like you have a 25k7191.

Some information on it is here:

http://jstookey.com/arcade/WG_25k7191/

The problem you are having is 99% causes by cold solder joints on that video input connector (male) header pins. The weight of the cable pulling on the wires causes the solder to go bad coupled with Wells-Gardner's poor soldering at the factory. The K7000 series is well-known for many cold (bad) solder joints all over the main board and optional remote adjustment board (if fitted).

If you are going to work on the monitor main board, you should discharge the monitor's high voltage. You should remove the boards from the monitor to work on them. Don't try the "balancing act" of trying to work on the boards while still in the monitor. Take the boards over to your work bench where you can work on them and see them under a good bright light. Examine the soldering closely. The most troublesome areas are at resistors R101 and R98. Use 60/40 rosin core "electronic" type solder. DO NOT USE THAT "LEAD-FREE" (all tin) crap solder or that acid core "plumber's solder".

Your pictures do show that your monitor has never had a capkit and it has it's original flyback transformer.

If you are removing a complete monitor from the cabinet there's no need to discharge it. However, you do need to disconnect the power cable, video/sync input cable, and frame ground wire from the monitor before lifting it out. Always have a helper handy to watch to be sure all cables are clear (not snagging on anything) and to help lift the monitor. Remember that 25" monitors are heavy (heavier than they look) and you don't want to drop it or break the neck of it. If you should decide to lay the monitor "face down", put a blanket or pillow down first. The tube will scratch itself under it's own weight and that is a permanent condition.

Some people remove the monitor to do cabinet work or to install a new or better monitor.

When I discharge a monitor I use a high voltage probe to do it. This is the best and safest way. You bleed the charge off quickly in about 15 seconds and with a proper load. You can see the voltage on the meter as it's discharging and without that dangerous SNAP of doing it with a screwdriver.

Sure you can discharge the tube with a screwdriver and a piece of wire. However, that can damage things. That sudden snap discharge can arc/burn the prong contacts inside the rubber suction cup thus making a poor connection later. Inside the flyback transformer is a high voltage diode that can be damaged by this sudden short circuit to ground.

I generally do not discharge a monitor just to move/remove it from a cabinet unless it's one of those oddball "two-piece" jobs where the tube is mounted to a piece of wood and the circuit boards are screwed to the side of the game cabinet.

I've been in this business since 1976 and have literally repaired over 1,000 monitors over the years.

[SegaAges]

Yeah, I need alot more practice soldering. I got a motherboard from an old pc I am practicing on, and everytime I try to heat the spot, I don't seem to heat it enough.

I will heat the spot by leaving it on the spot for about 3 seconds, and nothing will happen with the solder melting.

[SegaAges]

So I did it and was very careful with it, and now the monitor and marquee do not seem to be getting power. I am assuming it is power since the marquee itself is now not powering on

EDIT: I checked and the tube does not glow.

[Ken Layton]

Did you disconnect any connector that you may have forgotten to reconnect?

Are there any blown fuses?

All safety interlock switches in the correct position?

Power switch on?

[SegaAges]

Did you disconnect any connector that you may have forgotten to reconnect?

Are there any blown fuses?

All safety interlock switches in the correct position?

Power switch on?

I know that the power switch is on because the jamma board itself gets power.

As for fuses, I have no clue where they are located to check.
Also, for safety interlocks, I have no clue what those are.

The thing that is confusing me is the fact that the marquee gets no power. I should say the light fixture on top or whatever, but I did not think that had anything to do with the monitor. Could a safety interlock affect that? Or would a blown fuse affect that?

[SegaAges]

Where would the fuses be located for me to check?

I am sorry, I am new to this stuff, but want to learn.

Also, is there anything else that I can check since the marquee neon light and the monitor get no power, or does this sound like the culprit of a blown fuse?

EDIT: After some searching on the board, I found out that I have a
wells gardner 25k791

EDIT 2: sound also comes in.

[Ken Layton]

If that Sega STV is what you have, then it's in a Dynamo conversion cabinet. This could have several different internal wiring configurations depending on the cabinet model number (HS-x).

Here are pictures of two different power supplies that were used in these cabinets.

One is a Peter Chou 12 amp "screw terminal power supply. The other is a Peter Chou 200 watt "XT computer" style power supply.

If your cabinet has the XT computer style type of power supply then there should be a short (about 6" or so) dongle cable sticking out of the supply with a 3 pin flat white Molex connector. It will have black, white, and green wires. This connector is the 120 volt AC power output to the monittor's isolation transformer (and in some cabinets also to the light fixture). Is it possible you unplugged it and forgot to plug it back in? Maybe a pin scooted out of it's connector housing?

If your cabinet has the control panel AND the wood panel holding the gameboard and "screw terminal" type of power supply then there's a possibility that the slide out wood has snagged a wire or connector and pulled something loose/unplugged something.

In general, Dynamo cabinets do not use "safety interlock" switches. At least all the ones I've worked on over the years never had any.

[SegaAges]

If that Sega STV is what you have, then it's in a Dynamo conversion cabinet. This could have several different internal wiring configurations depending on the cabinet model number (HS-x).

Here are pictures of two different power supplies that were used in these cabinets.

One is a Peter Chou 12 amp "screw terminal power supply. The other is a Peter Chou 200 watt "XT computer" style power supply.

If your cabinet has the XT computer style type of power supply then there should be a short (about 6" or so) dongle cable sticking out of the supply with a 3 pin flat white Molex connector. It will have black, white, and green wires. This connector is the 120 volt AC power output to the monittor's isolation transformer (and in some cabinets also to the light fixture). Is it possible you unplugged it and forgot to plug it back in? Maybe a pin scooted out of it's connector housing?

If your cabinet has the control panel AND the wood panel holding the gameboard and "screw terminal" type of power supply then there's a possibility that the slide out wood has snagged a wire or connector and pulled something loose/unplugged something.

In general, Dynamo cabinets do not use "safety interlock" switches. At least all the ones I've worked on over the years never had any.

It actually used to be a Tekken 2 cabinet that I put a st-v board in.

This is what the cabinet looks like:
http://www.videogamecollectors.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=313380&g2_serialNumber=2

[SegaAges]

I will check all the pin connectors tomorrow and let you guys know what happens

[XYXZYZ]

That looks like a 3KOAM Z-Back.

[SegaAges]

Yeah, I got to put a hold on working on this for the weekend since I am in Kansas visiting a friend that got cancer

[SegaAges]

Here is an update. I not only checked the connections of the pins, but reseated them to ensure that they were secure.

I am still having the same symptoms of no marquee light and no power to the monitor. I am assuming that if the monitor got power even if something else was fucked up, I would still get the tube glowing.

What else can cause this to happen. The board obviously gets power because the sound comes on properly, which is telling me that the board gets power and is sending the signal to the speakers.

[Ken Layton]

Trace/follow the wires back from the monitor. There should be approx 120 volts AC at the monitor power connector.

[SegaAges]

Trace/follow the wires back from the monitor. There should be approx 120 volts AC at the monitor power connector.

Ok, cool. My roommate has a multimeter that I will bust out when he gets home to test it out.

EDIT: multimeter is giving a reading of 0 ac volts. I tested at the actual pins. Is that the place I should be checking at? What I did was put the multimeter underneath the board to get readings from the bottom of the pins.

I did, just for fun, set it to dc to see if anything was happening for a reading, and it did give me a dc number, but ac is zero

[SegaAges]

I looked in the manual and it said something about a circuit breaker since the marquee is not getting power, but I have no clue where that is located.

EDIT: I found the wire that was not plugged in properly. I got the marquee light going.
Now, I just get a small dot on the screen instead of the picture

EDIT: I was looking at the manual for a k7000 to check it out, and saw some awesome looking controls for horizontal and vertical stuff, so I went to check on mine. While it did not have them, I noticed a capacitor that looked like it had literally busted open. I am pretty confident that I found my issue and I need a cap kit.

Before I order the cap kit, is there anything else that I should try?

And, just to make sure I order the correct one, I might need some help getting the exact model number of my board.

I guess the tricky part will be completely removing the board, since I had issues getting it removed the first time. Are there any wires besides shit connected to the neck board that would stay connected to anything that is not on the board?

I do know that there is 1 wire, which I will have to take a picture of tomorrow that looks like some sort of ground that is connected near the front of the screen

[Peale]

If you found a burst capacitor it definitely needs to be replaced.

Other things that can cause what you're describing: unplugged yoke. Check it.

[SegaAges]

I feel like a noob asking this, but is the yoke the item that the neck board plugs into?

[TheDomesticInstitution]

Big Diagram Here (http://www.devo.com/video/5081/5081ma13.jpg)


http://www.biwa.ne.jp/~shamada/fullmac/trouble_patterns/se30_chasisEng.gif

http://www.biwa.ne.jp/~shamada/fullmac/trouble_patterns/yokeEng.gif

[SegaAges]

hmm, how would I check if the yoke itself is unplugged?

I have triple checked that the neck board is plugged in.

[TheDomesticInstitution]

That one is beyond me. Messing with yokes and tube stuff is definitely for the experienced. I don't know why it would be unplugged though... fuck I didn't even know you could unplug it. If a monitor were this much trouble, especially with my skills, I'd be on the hunt for a new one. Or at least try and find someone local, who's into the hobby, to help me.

What exactly is it doing? Did you do a complete cap kit? Do you have any neck glow? Neck glow is hard to see sometimes with the light on. Maybe you have a bad flyback... I recently had to replace one.

[SegaAges]

That one is beyond me. Messing with yokes and tube stuff is definitely for the experienced. I don't know why it would be unplugged though... fuck I didn't even know you could unplug it. If a monitor were this much trouble, especially with my skills, I'd be on the hunt for a new one. Or at least try and find someone local, who's into the hobby, to help me.

What exactly is it doing? Did you do a complete cap kit? Do you have any neck glow? Neck glow is hard to see sometimes with the light on. Maybe you have a bad flyback... I recently had to replace one.

The picture is coming in as a very small circle in the middle of the screen. When I say small, I mean about an inch or 2 in diameter.

Honestly, if it is not the yoke, I want to keep going until I have no other alternatives so that I can learn the stuff. I will never learn until it is broken like it is

[Arcade Antics]

Honestly, if it is not the yoke, I want to keep going until I have no other alternatives so that I can learn the stuff. I will never learn until it is broken like it is

You've gotten a lot of responses here from knowledgeable folks who are trying their hardest to help you.

You mentioned finding a cap that exploded, and you were asked whether or not you installed new caps on the monitor. You didn't answer, so it begs to be asked again. Did you do a cap kit on the monitor? It's not going to work properly no matter what else you mess with if the caps are shot.

[jb143]

The picture is coming in as a very small circle in the middle of the screen. When I say small, I mean about an inch or 2 in diameter.

Honestly, if it is not the yoke, I want to keep going until I have no other alternatives so that I can learn the stuff. I will never learn until it is broken like it is

You can make out the picture though? It sounds like a bad cap(s) to me. Electrolytic dry up over time and as they do their value changes. Capacitors are used for things like setting frequencies...like telling the beam when to sweep back and forth. If the value changes, the size of the picture can change because of it.

Also, just so you know, leaving it running like that for too long can burn that circle into the screen.

[Peale]

hmm, how would I check if the yoke itself is unplugged?

I have triple checked that the neck board is plugged in.

Examine the yoke itself. It's a series of copper windings on a plastic frame.

Usually on the top of the yoke are four connectors with wire leading from them. The /usual/ colors for these wires are red, green, blue and yellow.

Follow the wires down to a connector. This connector will either be plugged into the main chassis, or it will not be. If it's not, then we'll plug it in. If it is...well, we'll burn that bridge when we get to it.

Also: yeah, you still need to replace that cap if you have not.

[Peale]

I'd forgotten you have a K7000. I had to go back and check out your album.

You can see a picture of the yoke connector in this picture:

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x257/Stregano/101_0021.jpg

It's pretty much in the middle. It's right in back of the flyback area. It's a pain to put back into place. If you've had the chassis out, it's really easy to think you've put the yoke back when you've just put the connector between one of the big caps back there and the heat sink.

[SegaAges]

Arcade Antics: Oh yeah. I assure you, all the help you guys are giving me is just amazing and I can't even begin to express how fortunate and thankful I am for you guys helping me.

I ordered my cap kit last week, and was just seeing if there was anything else I could check while I was waiting for the cap kit.

I can check to yoke and that stuff, and then once my cap kit arrives, I will work on that.

Actually on that picture that Peale shows, you can see the capacitor that I was talking about. If you look at it, it is clearly bursted open and leaking onto the board.

[Arcade Antics]

I ordered my cap kit last week, and was just seeing if there was anything else I could check while I was waiting for the cap kit.

I can check to yoke and that stuff, and then once my cap kit arrives, I will work on that.

Actually on that picture that Peale shows, you can see the capacitor that I was talking about. If you look at it, it is clearly bursted open and leaking onto the board.

You'll have to pull the chassis to do the cap kit, so no reason to check the yoke connection until you've put it back together after installing the new caps. :)

[SegaAges]

You'll have to pull the chassis to do the cap kit, so no reason to check the yoke connection until you've put it back together after installing the new caps. :)

Do I have to pull the entire chassis out, or can this be done by just pulling the monitor board and neck board?

I ask because the chassis is glued into the cab, and it will be a serious pain to take the entire thing out.

[TheDomesticInstitution]

Do I have to pull the entire chassis out, or can this be done by just pulling the monitor board and neck board?

I ask because the chassis is glued into the cab, and it will be a serious pain to take the entire thing out.

When I do a cap kit, I pull the monitor PCB and the neck board. People often refer to these 2 boards as the chassis.

[SegaAges]

Ah, I understand now. Sorry, I am still learning. He said chassis and I was under the impression that I would pull the entire monitor out. That would suck for me pretty bad since the monitor is glued in.

[SegaAges]

Here are the pictures of the wire that I was telling you guys about. It goes from somewhere on the board to the front of the monitor. What is this wire used for?

http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/6338/dsc00691y.jpg

Here I put an arrow pointing to it

http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/5159/dsc006912c.jpg

[SegaAges]

Yeah, I am guessing that wire is a ground. I am just unsure it is it required since I have not seen it in other pictures of monitors

[vandy160890]

I would like to ask you that how much old is your monitor?
The discoloration may be because of the old worn out parts & you probably need to buy a new one. You can surely get it checked from the expert.

[Peale]

I would like to ask you that how much old is your monitor?
The discoloration may be because of the old worn out parts & you probably need to buy a new one. You can surely get it checked from the expert.

He's got a K7000 which is well documented, and a generally easy monitor to repair. He doesn't need to get a new one, he just needs to fix the one he has.

SegaAges, the wire you're talking about, if I'm looking at the right one, goes to the neck board. It may have been clipped (and you can splice the ends back together with a wire nut or something) or it may have been unsoldered from the neck board. It does need to go back. Though the monitor will work without it, it will build up a charge that will periodically SNAP when it reaches a certain potential. Eventually it may cause damage.

[Peale]

Actually on that picture that Peale shows, you can see the capacitor that I was talking about. If you look at it, it is clearly bursted open and leaking onto the board.

If it's brown stuff around the bottom, it's actually probably glue. Either way, you'll be replacing it.

[SegaAges]

Right now I have some of those things I used for my speakers where you put the wire in there and then twist the 2 sides of the wire in there.

Would it be bad to use that?

[Peale]

You mean a wire nut? That'll work fine.

[SegaAges]

Sorry dude, I am horrible with the names of stuff.

I am going to, hopefully, start working on the cap kit sometime this weekend.

Once I get it done, I am going to post and say how it went.

[SegaAges]

Just an update, I finally got the cap kit installed. I am going to piece everything back together tomorrow sometime and see what happens.

EDIT: video board is in, but now no power. I am going to double check to see if something I plugged in is flipped.

EDIT2: I checked and everything is plugged in. I even triple checked the issue I ran into before with this not getting power.

I will be honest, I am at a total loss as to what is happening. It is like everytime I touch it, it gets worse. I know there is a way to fix this, but I have no clue what I should be checking next.