View Full Version : Hardcore question! PS2, cont. vibration failure, and SMF's

07-06-2003, 09:57 PM
Ok. I want to learn how to "repair" a PS2 with the controller vibration feature failure. This is when some surface mount fuses blow (third party controller/frayed controller cables can cause this) on the motherboard, and then controller vibration function fails. This also seems to have the more serious effect of disabling the ability to use a multi-tap. x_x

This is NOT remedied by replacing the controller block. This is definitely a mobo/ fuse issue. This however, sums up everything I know on this. In Googling, I haven't found information as to exactly what type of fuses I will need, or where they are located on the various PS2 motherboard revisions. I need just a bit more info.

I found a guy online who sells a "repair kit" for this issue, but the instructions are "in the kit" :/ , and he won't ship the kits to the frozen wastes of Canada. I was hoping to get a kit, and reverse engineer it a bit :) .

Anyway, I know some of you here have electronics experience that outstrips my dabbling by quite a bit. I'm hoping that perhaps one of you, if you don't know the answer to my question, might be able to find out, or point me in the right direction so I can find out.

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

08-01-2003, 12:15 PM
if im not misstaken maxking sells fuses for psx,ps2 and if you dont know how they look its the small black boxes with 2 numbers on them like 25 10 etc.. and the really flatt things that usually are green and marked X something in PS2 units. the cause for the blown fuse is probably a shortcircuit.. its quite common if you happen to have a cat like me....


01-02-2004, 03:28 PM
I DID IT!!!!! :D :D :D

I cannot gaurantee this is the same with all versions, as I'm positive fuse name/type and location vary somewhat with each version.

On Most PS2's the fuse in question is located near the power supply connector posts on the motherboard. Depending on version they will be marked with a 50 on the back or an S7. The fuses are small and square/rectangular and black, just like Mr. Kitt above described. The common location for the fuse is marked PS7 or PS9 on the motherboard. As long as the PS2 works fine otherwise, you should be able to discern exactly which fuse it is with a continuity test. It will be the fuse that has no continuity :) .

Some fine desoldering (I used frayed braid successfully- tiny delicate area), and the bad fuse was out. I swiped a good fuse (exact same type fuse- tested continuity first) from a dead PS2 motherboard I had around (most mobos have a few of the same fuse on various places), and gently soldered it in. Voila!! :D Force feedback restored! 4 player adapter compatibility restored!

Now, one can always buy the fuses from the place above as well. I work like an auto wrecker, with game stores giving (or selling cheap) me busteds all the time. It is cheaper for me to operate that way than to ship specialized stuff in from the US all the time.

Alternatively, one COULD simply bridge the connection where the fuse was. I've read that this can be done, and it supposedly works, BUT it seems risky to me. The fuse was there for a reason. Leave it out and bridged, and whatever blew the first fuse, could conceivably do far more permanent damage to the motherboard, if it was to happen again. Just an FYI.

So here it is, etched in forum rock, to help others for eons to come. :D I needed to come in here and brag, as this is the only place on the internet where some of you reading may actually appreciate what I just did. :D

I did this repair for a customer who wanted to use his tap, and a wheel he was having problems with. One more issue I can fix under my belt...

01-02-2004, 08:02 PM
hehe well i usually dont order speciall fuses either i get normal pico fuses and use them as replacements (looks like small resistors) one thing to keep in mind is to have the value translated correctly.

my only ps2 problem is a corrupt EEPROM on a new V9 PAL mobo... or atleast i think its the EEPROM thats corrupt.. otherwise it should be the X marked chip LA508 (no manufacturer seem to make it strangely ... stupid sony) been waiting for a hack fix for like 2 months now.. and still noone seem to know anything about it.. its like an enigma..hence the laser unit dont seem to respond at disc interaction at all. (not DRE)