Can anyone help for a problem with classic game jewel case?

[SegaManiac100]

I recently moved and while unpacking one of my boxes, I removed my copy of F-Zero X 64DD from it's bubble wrap. Unfortunately, the bubble wrap left a sticky like residue like a glue or what you would see when you remove those annoying gamestop stickers from cases. Bear in mind, I had to do this with my other 64DD titles but this one was the one that came out the worse end.

Anyway, I tried some goo-gone to remove the residue. It seemed to be working but I think the problem became worse. While the sticky stuff is now gone, what I'm left with now is a "cloudy" looking surface on not only the front of the case but also on the lower part of the spine. In the right light, you can see it very easily and since I have my games on a bookshelf setup, when I walk past them and look really close, you're able to see on the spine the cloudy surface is different from the others. I believe what's happened is that it's damaged the very top layer of the jewel case. I could replace the jewel case but obviously because 64DD cases are not readily available as jewel cases for say import Saturn, Playstation titles, etc.

I've attached some photos so that you can see, sorry about the quality they were taken on my Iphone. Does anyone have any solutions I could try? Thanks!

[profholt82]

I had this same problem last year with a Sega CD case. Unfortunately, once the platic becomes cloudy it is ruined. The chemicals you used to clean it have reacted with the chemicals in the plastic which is why it's now cloudy. Sorry man, I learned this the hard way myself.

[allyourblood]

In my experience, Goo Gone is quite forgiving when it comes to jewel case plastic, so unless you've left the product on for a really long time, I doubt that's the culprit. In any event, after using Goo Gone, chase it with some 409 (or similar mild surface cleaner) to break up the oil and return the plastic to normal. If it's possible that the cloudiness is left over adhesive/residue/Goo Gone, then try that.

Otherwise, the most likely cause is the use of a paper towel or other slightly abrasive wipe or cloth. The hard rubbing one uses to accompany the application of Goo Gone will actually scuff the plastic lightly, leaving worn spots on occasion. If the worn spot is permanent, this is very likely to be the cause. I've not seen or heard of a method for polishing out these worn patches, and it's probably just simpler (though possibly costly) to replace the case itself.

[Aussie2B]

I've noticed that Goo Gone can cloud plastic as well. I don't know if anything can be done at that point. I still use Goo Gone on cases, but I do it as quick as possible and follow it with a mildly wet and soapy cloth, follow that with just a wet cloth to remove the soap, and wipe it dry. I make an assembly line out of it with 3 or 4 rags lined up before I start.

[QuickSciFi]

For cleaning jewel cases:

1. Iso-Propyl Alcohol - 97%

2. If the jewel case is blurry or heavily scratched, then the next best thing is the following:

Use a scratch removing liquid (on the jewel case piece by itself). I use Scratch Out from Walmart, which is cheap and has lasted me two years for less than two dollars. Use a tooth brush (preferably electronic, but it doesn't matter). You're going to press very hard on this thin plastic, so make sure you find a careful way to do so (place something that gives equal pressure on the other side. Don't just place the case against a flat surface with the raised sides. This is going to ensure you a crack or two). This is a very rigorous process, but if you enjoy restoring games like I do, it should be no problem. At the end, you'll end up with a very tooth-pasty surface, so go wash it with soap and dry it up to completion before you reinsert your... insert.

(It's only going to make it better, mind you. But it's not going to remove every single scratch or bring it back to original condition).

[xelement5x]

Rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol works very well like some said, but I've also have phenomonal luck using plain old lighter fluid. I get the Ronsonol brand which has Naphtha in it and is great for getting rid of sticky residue, but won't leech out colors like rubbing alcohol does.

As with anything, YMMV, so test in an inconspicuous area first.

[Zing]

What form of goo gone did you use? I have seen people post complaints such as this and it is later revealed they were using some non-standard goo gone, or even a different brand.

The "Goo Gone" I use is the actual brand "Goo Gone" and it comes in a yellow liquid form with a pump spray. I have used it on everything: soft covers of PS2 games, DVDs, PlayStation regular and long boxes. Absolutely zero damage and all traces of residue were removed. For a while I was just cleaning all of my incoming games with the spray regardless of how dirty they were, simply because it makes every case look great!

If whatever you used truly did cloud the plastic, then there is nothing you can do. If it is just a matter of not using enough spray and the residue is still there, or you didn't rinse completely, then you should be able to reapply and finish the job.

*edit* I just looked at your photos and it looks like you just need to try to clean it again.

[Aussie2B]

I definitely use real Goo Gone myself. In all my years of using it, both the thin liquid in a normal bottle and the goopy kind in a spray bottle, I've found that it isn't as amazing for any of the jobs that game collectors sing its praises for. It's not that great at removing stickers (unless you count ones that are easy to come off anyway that I'd be better off simply pulling off), it's not that great on marker, and it's easy to damage labels and certain plastics with it if you're not careful. While I wouldn't do without, I only begrudgingly use it.

And I find alcohol works even worse. It's only good for cleaning contacts/connectors, as far as I'm concerned. It barely does crap for stickiness or marker, and for general cleaning of plastic, soap and water can do the same job, if not better.

[Duke.Togo]

I use brand name Goo-Gone and 70% Iso Alcohol typically. Some glues seem to respond better to one of the other. I try alcohol first, then move to Goo-gone if that doesn't work. After Goo-gone I'll go over it with alcohol to help remove the oil.

As far as scuffed plastic, I'd recommend picking up Novus plastic polish. Great product that is a staple in the pinball world.

[SamuraiSmurfette]

Has anyone tried plastic polish on this sort of thing? I've used it on other stuff and it works wonders. It's made for cars, but I've used it on everything from toys to lightswitch plates.

http://www.mothers.com/02_products/06208.html

[allyourblood]

I definitely use real Goo Gone myself. In all my years of using it, both the thin liquid in a normal bottle and the goopy kind in a spray bottle, I've found that it isn't as amazing for any of the jobs that game collectors sing its praises for. It's not that great at removing stickers (unless you count ones that are easy to come off anyway that I'd be better off simply pulling off), it's not that great on marker, and it's easy to damage labels and certain plastics with it if you're not careful. While I wouldn't do without, I only begrudgingly use it.

Odd, my experience with Goo Gone seems to be the exact opposite of yours. I find it works phenomenally at removing sticker residue and has removed permanent marker from literally hundreds of games in my collection; I confess that some markings are more stubborn than others, but it has removed most marker in its entirety from at least 90% of those games. In fact, I just used it yesterday to remove some colossal red felt-tip graffiti from an SNES.

I find the stickers that benefit best from an application of Goo Gone are those that tend to tear and peel away in tiny pieces -- in other words, the really sucky ones. I generally remove the entire top layer of the sticker (whatever can be picked away easily), soak the remaining "papery" residue, wait a couple of minutes, and then either scrape or wipe away the result. Works a treat. Follow with 409 and you're done.

I've never damaged or ruined any plastic surfaces with it, but I have read it from others, and I've seen what the product does to its own cap over time, so I know it's possible. The hard plastic in most jewel cases has never been particularly susceptible to this problem, however.

The real bane to most collectible games these days (beyond the awful stickers and marker themselves) has got to be the Magic Eraser. To the untrained eye, they work wonders at removing marker and stains... that is until you realize you just sanded your game and left a worn spot where the marks were. They're okay for somethings, but I don't let them near my games.

[Aussie2B]

Goo Gone is definitely good for sticker residue, but I find that unless I receive something with nothing but residue in the first place, I usually have to do at least 75% of the work with my bare hands to get it to that point. For it to work on a sticker as-is, it needs to be a really papery, porous sticker so the Goo Gone can actually absorb through to the sticky bottom (other than around the edges, which it likes to do to real labels that I don't want damaged, argh). Goo Gone often just sits right on top of a sticker, doing practically nothing, and heaven help you if you have a sticker with a plastic-y top layer. It's even more frustrating when, in trying to prepare the sticker to actually benefit from Goo Gone, you're trying to peel the top layer off and the sticker pulls off pieces of the label under it.