Strategies for CIBing my favorite games?

[Edmond Dantes]

So I've decided to try and CIB my favorite games. My first efforts were simply to get whatever was available locally, so far that's panned out. But now its getting difficult.

So here's my questions. In your opinion, which is better (and please, no trying to talk me out of it):

1. Saving up and grabbing the more expensive/rarer games first, or going for the cheapies and worrying about the harder stuff later?

2. Getting the bits (boxes, documents etc) piecemeal or saving up and looking for complete copies?

3. Getting things such as dust protectors etc. in advance, or waiting until you need them?

Thanks!

[Gameguy]

As for which games to go for first, keep an eye out for common titles in person for good prices while saving up for the rarer ones. I assume by rare games they'll be so rare that complete copies will be hard to find anywhere. While you're waiting for complete copies of rare games to show up for sale, keep looking for cheap complete games locally. I basically buy whatever is a good price whenever I manage to come across it.

It's usually easier to find complete copies in excellent shape rather than piecing them together later, I wouldn't bother piecing them together unless you really couldn't find a complete copy and had no choice(like with Stadium Events or Bubble Bath Babes type of rare games). Buy them complete, then sell off your loose copies. Of course if you can across an expensive game in person for a cheap price and it was just missing the manual, it might be cheaper to just buy a manual later. For stuff that came with maps and posters and tons of other inserts it would just add up more than buying a complete copy to start with.

I wouldn't bother getting dust protectors in advance, when I first started I tried getting them whenever I could so I'd always have them available. I ended up finding several when I bought various bundles of games so I never had to buy them separately again. If you ever need them you can always buy them later.

[jrokshady]

2 pieces of advice for you:

1. Search on ebay for whatever games you're looking to complete. Sometimes there will be an auction for "case + instructions" or "box + instructions" and it will usually be cheaper than if you were buying a used copy of the game. I see these all the time for more common games, but definitely look for them on rarer games that you dont want to pay lots of money for another copy.

2. videogameinstructionbooklets.com They have lots of "box + instructions" sets for sale there, as well as replacement cases.

[ScatterTrains]

With some eBay luck, I've pieced together complete (including inserts) games for $20 under FMV.

[Casati]

1. Saving up and grabbing the more expensive/rarer games first, or going for the cheapies and worrying about the harder stuff later?

2. Getting the bits (boxes, documents etc) piecemeal or saving up and looking for complete copies?

3. Getting things such as dust protectors etc. in advance, or waiting until you need them?

Thanks!

If you have the money or can take a loan, go for the expensive stuff first because it tends to appreciate in value more quickly, but also get commons when offered for cheap, such as in lots.

Get them piecemeal to save money, generally avoiding Ebay CIB BINs which are usually overpriced, often drastically.

Wait until you need supplies unless they're offered at a discount.

[Edmond Dantes]

Is it really wise to take out a loan for video games?

[badinsults]

Taking out a loan to fund a hobby has to be one of the stupidest things I have ever heard.

[nebrazca78]

It doesn't matter whether you decide to go for commons or rares first. In my experience it's a much better strategy to go for everything at once, but be opportunistic while doing so. Just keep your eyes open for good deals and don't pass them up when you see them. If you see a game in nice condition selling for a fraction of its retail value, snap it up no matter if it's rare or not.

As for collecting complete or piece by piece, I think it makes a difference what condition you're trying to get your collection to. If you want everything to be in excellent condition, collecting piece by piece is going to be hard. Collecting through large lots is going to be hard as well unless you're willing to do a lot of reselling. Older games are hard to find in excellent condition, especially piece by piece, which is why you might want to buy individually. Generally speaking, people who take care of their games keep them complete which tends to keep the manuals and cartridges/discs in better condition.

If you are just trying to get your collection in average condition, buying in large lots and getting games complete piece by piece can save you a lot of money. Some people highly undervalue cases, inserts and manuals which allows you to pick them up cheaply. Many people don't realize that usually the case including insert (if applicable) with the manual is worth as much as the game itself. And in some instances, like with many Atari and NES games, the case and manual are worth more than the game.

But really, the most important thing here is to stay opportunistic.

.

[MachineGex]

This is a great way to get burnt out on a hobby you love.......

[Edmond Dantes]

Honestly, it's kind of helped me rediscover why I like the hobby in the first place.

[Ryudo]

Sometimes if I see a game at a store I have but not CIB I offer 10$ for the case and manual. Some places will let you do it also.

Meant to put this here not the other topic

[Sunnyvale]

My advice would be to not get emotional over any particular games, but be opportunistic. Get whatever you will want or may need cheap, in lots, in the wild, etc. I frequently buy lots of SMS games, and sell the extras piecemeal. Often end up with a profit, rarely does it actually cost anything but time.

And no, don't take out a loan :roll:

[sfchakan]

You know your personal financial situation better than anyone here. If you have the surplus monies to just blow it on shit, then by all means, go right ahead.

I would not personally get a loan, especially up front. Even if you don't have any other responsibilities, you're going to be repaying that loan off and potentially having to wave goodbye to other better deals that come up... and shit comes up all the time if you look.

[Sunnyvale]

OK, besides the fact he mentioned taking out a loan, Casati gave good advice. However, if you do look at Ebay BiN's, sort by 'Newly Listed'. That's how I got this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200655667083?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Yeah, the box and book are beat. But the game alone was worth the asking price, shipping included. And look at the seller's feedback! The best of us make blunders, or need money now, or whatever. Being there to snap it up is to us older gents what 'crushing gay n00bs' on Halo is to 13 year olds.

Edit: At least to this older gent :)

[Edmond Dantes]

Yeah, Casati's right about how the rarer stuff is just gonna keep getting more expensive. Unfortunately it seems like I picked a really bad time to decide to do this... the Holidays are coming up and people are gonna be expecting me to spend money on them.

What I'm doing right now is working on games where I've already, as we say in the south, "got my foot in the door." That means work on the games that are already a ways towards being complete and just get the parts I'm missing. For example, my copies of the following only need the manual (as far as I kow) to be completely complete:

Battletoads (Genesis)
Chakan the Forever Man (Genesis)
Legend of Zelda: A Link to the Past (SNES)
Shining in the Darkness (Genesis)
Skyblazer (SNES)
Xenogears (PS1, Black Label)

So I'm gonna get them out of the way first.

I've also got four SNES games where I have the manual, but not the box. I'm not sure how I should approach that--in my experience, loose boxes are harder to find than loose manuals so I'm probably looking at buying and cannibalizing already complete copies, the same as if I just had the cart. For the curious, the four games are Animaniacs, Illusion of Gaia, Super Bomberman (not the one that came with the Multitap) and Super Mario World. I'm not really interested in CIBing Animaniacs, but its not a bad game.

After those are out of the way I'll just buy and cannibalize already-complete copies of the games where all I have is the cart.


As for collecting complete or piece by piece, I think it makes a difference what condition you're trying to get your collection to.

The condition doesn't need to be brand new, but I wouldn't accept a box or a manual that looked like utter garbage. It its got a few creases and the front has gone concave a bit, fine. If the box looks like a child tried to make origami out of it, no thanks.

[Sunnyvale]

I would advise against trying to get a manual or box individually. Never gonna happen. I have quite a few Sega games that are box n game, but no book... (If you have the manual for Alex Kidd, or Wonder Boy or WB in Monsterland, let me know. PLEASE!!!) May as well be a loose cart for all its worth on Ebay. Shipping differences...
Anyway, for the games I like to play (like your aforementioned Battletoads on the Genesis. Buttonmash!!!), I look for a loose, maybe boxed copy for play, but for the closet, it's a complete copy. Try finding a loose box or manual for a game! Easier and cheaper complete. Think about it. I have that Zelda I posted the link to. Wanna buy the semi-beat box? $7.50 shipped. The game? $20 shipped. The manual? $6. PM me a list, if you want. I have quite a few orphans, but I don't want to take the time to post them all. But to help a collector complete a collecion...

Well shit, that's what they're for.

[Casati]

Taking out a loan to fund a hobby has to be one of the stupidest things I have ever heard.

Okay, it was said a bit flippantly to underline the appreciation of rarer games, but a loan may work for someone serious about completing their collection. From what I've seen, some of the rare games may actually be appreciating greater than a bank loan rate around 12%. If one gets lost in the forest of completing commons, they may miss some of the rare timber getting hauled away.

[Sunnyvale]

Okay, it was said a bit flippantly to underline the appreciation of rarer games, but a loan may work for someone serious about completing their collection. From what I've seen, some of the rare games may actually be appreciating greater than a bank loan rate around 12%. If one gets lost in the forest of completing commons, they may miss some of the rare timber getting hauled away.

What you say of appreciation is true. Most rare games have gone up more than gold in the last few years. But man-o-man, that's shaky ground. Not to mention grounds for divorce.

[Gameguy]

For example, my copies of the following only need the manual (as far as I kow) to be completely complete:

Legend of Zelda: A Link to the Past (SNES)
Which version of the game do you have? With Nintendo games there's usually revisions that you have to be careful of when parting them together. They need to match to be complete. Even some Genesis games have noticable revisions with carts and box inserts.

I traded for a "complete" copy of Super Mario Land 2 from someone locally. It ended up being the box for the US version, the manual for the US Player's Choice version, the Canadian Player's Choice game, and the cardboard insert from a GBC game which only fits the game loose(not with a plastic case). This is not what I consider to be complete, so far I've tracked down a US version of the game but not the correct manual or correct plastic tray. This was a few years ago and it's a pain to do this properly, there's no way I would try to do this for all my games. I'm willing to do it for some of my games, but only by trading spare boxes or instructions that I got for free to begin with.

Do you have the Top Secrets booklet and poster with your copy of Zelda? It's not complete without those either.

This is what a complete copy should look like;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190580592976

[Edmond Dantes]

Which version of the game do you have? With Nintendo games there's usually revisions that you have to be careful of when parting them together. They need to match to be complete. Even some Genesis games have noticable revisions with carts and box inserts.

I know I bought mine at around the midpoint of the SNES's lifespan (I remember getting both it and Link's Awakening on the same day, and LA was still the most recent Zelda), and the box doesn't have anything indicating its a re-release. But I'm not completely sure.


Do you have the Top Secrets booklet and poster with your copy of Zelda? It's not complete without those either.

Cruddlesticks, I thought I was missing something.

[Gameguy]

I know I bought mine at around the midpoint of the SNES's lifespan (I remember getting both it and Link's Awakening on the same day, and LA was still the most recent Zelda), and the box doesn't have anything indicating its a re-release. But I'm not completely sure.
If you bought it new then it's probably easier to complete compared to starting with just a loose cartridge. The main thing to check is the part numbers on each item, as long as they match it should be fine. I have a complete copy of Link to the Past and it's the Canadian version, if you were buying spare manuals or posters or even that Top Secrets booklet you'd have to know what the part numbers were before paying for it. If it doesn't match I don't see the point in buying it, and there's at least 4 versions of it if you're counting US and Canadian versions(which any seller could be selling). Imagine having to check this stuff for every game you want to part together, it will start to get annoying very quickly.

It's kind of ironic, the rarer the game the easier it can be to complete it because it's less likely that there will be multiple printings and variants to watch out for. The common games can be more of a pain to part together even though they're more plentiful.

[Edmond Dantes]

To be honest, unless the difference is so huge that I would spot it immediately I don't think I'd be bothered which printing I get. If there's some very obvious version indicator (such as Green Label on Playstation games) then that kind of thing bothers me, but if the only way I'll notice a difference is if I look at some small print serial numbers then I really don't care.