After playing my Famicom AV for a while the game got real hot and smelt bad.

[Urzu402]

Well it smelt like burning plastic or something. Is this normal with Famicom AVs. I'm talking about like close to an hour's worth of play like 45 minutes.

[Tupin]

Are you playing a pirated game? Those were made cheaply and actually can overheat easily.

[Urzu402]

Are you playing a pirated game? Those were made cheaply and actually can overheat easily.

I don't think its a pirate, everything about it looks legit. The game in question is Rockman 5, I mean it wasnt like burning hot it was noticeably warm though and it did smell like burning plastic.

[Gameguy]

If it catches fire you've played it too long.

[SpaceHarrier]

Having trouble with Napalm Man?

[FoxNtd]

If your game doesn't look like this, then it's a pirate.

http://www.famicom.biz/all/catalogue/6800000000642.jpg

Furthermore I can play the AV FC for several consecutive hours and never have the smell of burning plastic. What AC adapter are you using?

[Urzu402]

If your game doesn't look like this, then it's a pirate.

http://www.famicom.biz/all/catalogue/6800000000642.jpg

Furthermore I can play the AV FC for several consecutive hours and never have the smell of burning plastic. What AC adapter are you using?

It looks like that, I am using a Sega Genesis model 1 AC adapter.

[Urzu402]

Also the smell of buring plastic came from where the contacts are.

[FoxNtd]

I checked the FC adapter and the Genesis model 1 adapter since I have both. They're both outputting 10V DC but there is a difference. The FC adapter is marked 850mA but the Sega adapter shows 1200mA (1.2A). I wonder if the higher amperage is what is the cause for the excess heat building up. Maybe you should get the Japanese Nintendo adapter; it's the same part/adapter for both the FC and SFC (part number HVC-002).

[Gameguy]

I checked the FC adapter and the Genesis model 1 adapter since I have both. They're both outputting 10V DC but there is a difference. The FC adapter is marked 850mA but the Sega adapter shows 1200mA (1.2A). I wonder if the higher amperage is what is the cause for the excess heat building up. Maybe you should get the Japanese Nintendo adapter; it's the same part/adapter for both the FC and SFC (part number HVC-002).
Higher amperage doesn't matter, it will only take what it needs. It's more like the maximum amperage that the adapter can supply, systems won't always use as much current as the adapters list. The thing is while some Genesis Model 1 adapters output 10V, most seem to be rated 9V. They changed the adapters during production of the Model 1s, so his might be slightly underpowered to run the Famicom properly.

[RP2A03]

Also the smell of buring plastic came from where the contacts are.

Are you sure it smells like burning plastic and not like warm electronics? Also, doesn't the heat from the voltage regulator vent out near the cart slot? Perhaps the smell is originating from there and is contaminating the game.

[stalepie]

You shouldn't use that adapter. I burnt (destroyed) a good AV-modded Famicom I got off Ebay some years ago by accidentally plugging in the Genesis adapter.

There was actually a wisp of smoke that came out the back!

[wiggyx]

I checked the FC adapter and the Genesis model 1 adapter since I have both. They're both outputting 10V DC but there is a difference. The FC adapter is marked 850mA but the Sega adapter shows 1200mA (1.2A). I wonder if the higher amperage is what is the cause for the excess heat building up. Maybe you should get the Japanese Nintendo adapter; it's the same part/adapter for both the FC and SFC (part number HVC-002).


Higher amperage doesn't matter, it will only take what it needs. It's more like the maximum amperage that the adapter can supply, systems won't always use as much current as the adapters list. The thing is while some Genesis Model 1 adapters output 10V, most seem to be rated 9V. They changed the adapters during production of the Model 1s, so his might be slightly underpowered to run the Famicom properly.

AC adapter was what immediately came to mind for me as well.

OP, seems like that's where you should start troubleshooting ;)

[Urzu402]

Ok the Genesis power adapter I am using is one rated at 10v. Now I do have the adaptor that came with my Famicom AV, I didn't want to use it becasue of the output differences of US to Japanese outlets. I was afraid that was going to do something bad to the Famicom.

[FoxNtd]

Ok the Genesis power adapter I am using is one rated at 10v. Now I do have the adaptor that came with my Famicom AV, I didn't want to use it becasue of the output differences of US to Japanese outlets. I was afraid that was going to do something bad to the Famicom.

I'm willing to bet you're taking more risk using that Sega adapter than the matching FC adapter. Your outlet is only 10 volts higher than a Japanese outlet and the adapter is converting to DC anyway. As with any electronics regardless of country of origin, I use surge suppressors for everything. :)

[Parodius Duh!]

Not using a voltage convertor? I learned my lesson after frying 2 saturns, if you care about your Japanese systems do NOT listen to anyone that says its okay to run it bare through a US outlet, if a power spike happens say goodbye to your system, your already running 10-20+ extra volts into it.


Oh you switched the power adapter around? Thats a terrible thing to do to a famicom, always use its official adapter. Switching adapters usually leads to problems as well.

You can take my word for it, famicom is the only thing I collect.

[Razo00]

Not using a voltage convertor? I learned my lesson after frying 2 saturns, if you care about your Japanese systems do NOT listen to anyone that says its okay to run it bare through a US outlet, if a power spike happens say goodbye to your system, your already running 10-20+ extra volts into it.


Oh you switched the power adapter around? Thats a terrible thing to do to a famicom, always use its official adapter. Switching adapters usually leads to problems as well.

You can take my word for it, famicom is the only thing I collect.

Couldn't agree more. I also run a voltage converter on my jp neo aes. Its a massive heavy converter I bought online years ago but it does the job. I've never fried any of my jp systems, but why take the chance.

[Gameguy]

There's a youtube video that explains the basics about this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36J_Ejnv2qc

[stalepie]

Sorry, I meant to say I used a NES adapter on the Famicom. Don't think I did a Genesis one. That video made me remember.

[FoxNtd]

Sorry, I meant to say I used a NES adapter on the Famicom. Don't think I did a Genesis one. That video made me remember.

NEVER CONNECT AN NES ADAPTER TO ANYTHING THAT IS NOT A NES!

Why is this so important? Because those boneheads released the NES adapter without doing conversion to DC! It feeds AC directly to the console and since every other console doesn't have this stupid design, if you try using the NES adapter you will blow the unit. :( I still don't understand why the NES adapter is a brick if it isn't doing any conversion.

I've been using a bunch of Japanese consoles without voltage transformers. Famicom, Saturn, PS2, etc.... I haven't broken anything! Like I said I always use surge suppressors to keep my consoles and TV safe. :)

[Parodius Duh!]

surge suppressors are not voltage convertors, keep running your systems like that and eventually youll regret it. Especially if they are plugged in all day every day. If you dont fry the entire system you are seriously straining the components inside the machine. Never run a system or any electrical product for that matter at any higher voltage than what is recommended, yeah sure it may work just fine plugged into the wall but the internal damage you are doing each time is incomprehensible. Thats why I NEVER purchase used Japanese systems that are already in the US/Canada. God only knows how much damage is already done to the internals...


To everyone already owning or considering owning a Japanese system in the US/Canada:

The answer is as simple as this, Buy a voltage convertor for $15 bucks, use the correct power adapter for the system, and no problems will ever arise. If you dont follow these 2 simple rules, well, have fun literally watching your money and hobby burn up right in front of you.

[Gameguy]

Why is this so important? Because those boneheads released the NES adapter without doing conversion to DC! It feeds AC directly to the console and since every other console doesn't have this stupid design, if you try using the NES adapter you will blow the unit. :( I still don't understand why the NES adapter is a brick if it isn't doing any conversion.
It is doing a conversion, it's converting 120V to 9V. The adapter basically acts as a step-down voltage converter. There were actually two types of NES adapters made, one of them actually does convert the current to DC output but it only came with early NES systems. I have one of these too, the part number is AD-154. Look on the bottom of NES systems, they say to either use NES-002 or AD-154 AC adapters. It's also interesting to note that official NES-002 adapters output 1.3A but on the bottom of NES consoles it says it uses 850mA.


surge suppressors are not voltage convertors, keep running your systems like that and eventually youll regret it. Especially if they are plugged in all day every day. If you dont fry the entire system you are seriously straining the components inside the machine. Never run a system or any electrical product for that matter at any higher voltage than what is recommended, yeah sure it may work just fine plugged into the wall but the internal damage you are doing each time is incomprehensible. Thats why I NEVER purchase used Japanese systems that are already in the US/Canada. God only knows how much damage is already done to the internals...
It depends on what the input is rated on the adapters. Modern adapters are suitable for a wide range of input voltages, anywhere from 100V to 220V without problems. Modern Gameboy SP adapters are suitable for 100V or 120V. Older adapters could potentially have problems, but the main problems will be with the adapters themselves burning out not with higher voltage damaging the system. Not unless the power supply is built into the console itself like with the Saturn. If you would have replaced the power supply in your Saturn it would have been fixed, replacement ones are available online. Plus most consoles use voltage regulators so a few volts higher won't usually damage them, sometimes too much voltage would burn out the regulator but if not it would be fine.

[Urzu402]

So if I keep using my Genesis model 1 adapter for my Famicom AV it could damage it?

Both the Adapter that came with my Famicom AV and the Genesis model 1 Adapter are both rated to output 10V, except the Genesis one has slightly higher amperage output.

[Gameguy]

So if I keep using my Genesis model 1 adapter for my Famicom AV it could damage it?

Both the Adapter that came with my Famicom AV and the Genesis model 1 Adapter are both rated to output 10V, except the Genesis one has slightly higher amperage output.
It should be fine, it's better to have more amperage than less. The only thing to be careful with is making sure that the adapters actually output what they're rated to output, you're trusting that the rating listed is accurate. What's the input rating on the Famicom adaptor? Is it just 100V or is it 100V-120V?

[Urzu402]

The Famicom Adapter says it's input is:

100v 50/60hz 18va

[FoxNtd]

So the NES adapter performs the step-down transforming then something inside the console itself is another unit that finishes the process by converting to DC? At least it explains the brick. :|

Is there evidence that undoubtedly proves that using a 110V source instead of 100V is going to kill the machine eventually? Isn't it more important to examine the supply of power after conversion since that is what actually will reach the rest of the machine? In other words, how does the flow of DC after converting 100V AC input compare to the DC outputted after converting from 110V AC?

I saw elsewhere that the components have a tolerance range since you cannot provide a PERFECT stream of 9V DC constantly. It's the idea behind buying a high quality PSU for a computer because you want a device that can do as well as it can to make a constant steady stream with little fluctuation. My point here is the estimated range covers well beyond what we're feeding the machine.

Maybe taking measurements with a multimeter in the console to see what kind of DC flow is there for both a connection to 110V and a converted 100V AC source to prove if there's a different result in power flow. Let's suppose with 110V the DC we measure is above 9V (sufficiently higher to eliminate the chance of observing inherent error). Then how do you prove that this higher level is guaranteed to kill the hardware or, to show it is any more dangerous than the ordinary expected 9V after converting 100V would be? :|

People are using similar, but not like, adapters feeding 10V instead of 9 and you don't see consoles dying after a few hours of use because of it. Needless to say I'm remaining extremely skeptical about the necessity of a step-down transformer for 110 -> 100.

My surge suppressors are not being used as if they somehow address this 110/100 issue (if it even is an issue in the first place.) It's just to stop power surges that might hit the house from propagating into my devices destroying them.

Oh, and the suppressors have an off switch so I effectively cut off all devices from their connection to the outlet instead of unplugging all the cords/bricks one by one.

So unless I'm missing something important that is at play about electricity and these machines, I would need to see a test with 2 new machines running 24/7 under 100V and 110V at the source to see which dies first. The test would have to be done multiple times with different new machines to rule out the chance a machine that is faulty from the factory was in the test. Without this test I'd need a juicy explanation why it's riskier, assuming in the first place that the DC flowing through the machine is different! Perhaps expanding the tests to run four machines with these power conversions for the feeds: 100/9, 100/10, 110/9, 110/10.

Enough of these claims because tons of people are making the claims from both sides. Unfortunately I can't admit "well I used to use 110V directly and after 2 years my console died and wouldn't power on" because how the fuck can you prove using 110V sources was the reason that caused the failure? Would the unit have failed the same way under 100V sources? How would you prove this. :| Claims are just claims, making a statement without citation or evidence, or explanation. That's what everyone is doing. I cannot claim using direct 110V feeds is identically as safe as 100V feeds. It sure as hell seems like it though.

My only evidence I have for myself is the usage of these things with 110V sources. After two to three years, age depending on console, nothing has suffered a fiery death here.

Is anyone willing to open a machine up and measure the power feed within it when the unit is powered up with 100V source and 110V source? Some concrete verification would be nice. :puppydogeyes:

[InsaneDavid]

So the NES adapter performs the step-down transforming then something inside the console itself is another unit that finishes the process by converting to DC? At least it explains the brick. :|

...

Is anyone willing to open a machine up and measure the power feed within it when the unit is powered up with 100V source and 110V source? Some concrete verification would be nice. :puppydogeyes:

This, as with most of the stuff brought up in this thread, is more or less the "Tastes great!" / "Less filling!" debate of importing consoles. Internal voltage regulators, transformers and personal experiences aside - YMMV across the board.

[Gameguy]

Is there evidence that undoubtedly proves that using a 110V source instead of 100V is going to kill the machine eventually? Isn't it more important to examine the supply of power after conversion since that is what actually will reach the rest of the machine? In other words, how does the flow of DC after converting 100V AC input compare to the DC outputted after converting from 110V AC?

I saw elsewhere that the components have a tolerance range since you cannot provide a PERFECT stream of 9V DC constantly. It's the idea behind buying a high quality PSU for a computer because you want a device that can do as well as it can to make a constant steady stream with little fluctuation. My point here is the estimated range covers well beyond what we're feeding the machine.
I'm not sure where you're getting 110V, the standard household current for Canada and the United States is 120V at 60Hz. Really anything between 114-126V for household current is considered normal, it's not 100% perfect from electricity providers and is really just approximate.

You're right about there being a tolerance, most consoles have internal voltage regulators to provide a constant voltage to operate. I believe for the NES the voltage gets converted internally to 5V.

[FoxNtd]

After a little searching I find that in North America, a wall socket in a home could be 110V, 120V, or something else close to this. There are variables based on where the supply of power generation is as the distance the power travels over power lines has an impact on the voltage that is fed to the home (V=IR). Also the sockets for the big heavy-duty appliances is in the 220-240V area give or take for the same reasons. I kept writing 110 by default as I kept resorting to 220/2=110 mentally. So we're both right, as it depends on where the socket is. :)

Of course that potential difference won't be 100% perfect over time so that tolerance range covers this issue.

[wiggyx]

Not using a voltage convertor? I learned my lesson after frying 2 saturns, if you care about your Japanese systems do NOT listen to anyone that says its okay to run it bare through a US outlet, if a power spike happens say goodbye to your system, your already running 10-20+ extra volts into it.


Pardon me if I'm missing something, but isn't a surge protector intended to prevent spikes from frying electronics, regardless of the intended voltage input, not a converter? The same spike could harm your US systems as well, so I don't see how this is an issue exclusive to JP consoles/electronics. I'm not saying that a convertor isn't ever a good idea, but rather that it's not what's preventing spikes from harming your JP electronics.


surge suppressors are not voltage convertors, keep running your systems like that and eventually youll regret it. Especially if they are plugged in all day every day. If you dont fry the entire system you are seriously straining the components inside the machine. Never run a system or any electrical product for that matter at any higher voltage than what is recommended, yeah sure it may work just fine plugged into the wall but the internal damage you are doing each time is incomprehensible. Thats why I NEVER purchase used Japanese systems that are already in the US/Canada. God only knows how much damage is already done to the internals...


To everyone already owning or considering owning a Japanese system in the US/Canada:

The answer is as simple as this, Buy a voltage convertor for $15 bucks, use the correct power adapter for the system, and no problems will ever arise. If you dont follow these 2 simple rules, well, have fun literally watching your money and hobby burn up right in front of you.

The Saturn has a fuse. It's pretty unlikely that you could "fry" the system before the fuse blows. It's likely that you blew the fuse on you JP Saturns because you weren't running a surge protector, not because the system couldn't handle the ~120v input. I've purchased a couple dozen "broken" Saturns on eBay over the years (hell, I may have one of yours if you sold them there), and a blown fuse has been the issue on a handful of US and JP units.

Just so you're aware, the JP Saturn is perfectly capable of handling our 120v current. You can see here on a JP Saturn power board that it's rated at 125v with an acceptable range of 85v-132v.

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k99/wiggyx/Game%20Stuff/DSC02408.jpg


Most electronic devices made in this century (and many in the last) which use some form of AC adapter are designed to handle between 100v-240v. Not sure? Take a look at the AC adapter. It'll say right on the label what it's acceptable range is.

[ApolloBoy]

Because those boneheads released the NES adapter without doing conversion to DC! It feeds AC directly to the console and since every other console doesn't have this stupid design, if you try using the NES adapter you will blow the unit. :( I still don't understand why the NES adapter is a brick if it isn't doing any conversion.

I think the reason why the NES takes in AC was to prevent the system from being damaged by using DC power supplies. The NES has a bridge rectifier inside which converts AC voltage from the power supply to the DC voltage the system actually requires. I use a DC power supply with my NES and it works perfectly fine.

Power bricks actually contain transformers which step down the voltage from the outlet to whatever output the PSU is. That output voltage then goes to a voltage regulator inside the console and is stepped down to positive 5V DC, which is what many game consoles use. The excess voltage is given off as heat from the regulator, which is why voltage regulators have big heat sinks screwed onto them.




I've been using a bunch of Japanese consoles without voltage transformers. Famicom, Saturn, PS2, etc.... I haven't broken anything! Like I said I always use surge suppressors to keep my consoles and TV safe. :)
Same here. Voltage converters are completely unnecessary for game consoles and were really meant to be used for equipment that would be sensitive to voltage changes. And as wiggyx pointed out, Japanese power supplies (especially for later consoles) tend to be the same as American ones since the voltage difference is fairly small. I use Japanese power supplies all the time and not once have I ever had an issue.

[FoxNtd]

I think the reason why the NES takes in AC was to prevent the system from being damaged by using DC power supplies. The NES has a bridge rectifier inside which converts AC voltage from the power supply to the DC voltage the system actually requires. I use a DC power supply with my NES and it works perfectly fine.

Power bricks actually contain transformers which step down the voltage from the outlet to whatever output the PSU is. That output voltage then goes to a voltage regulator inside the console and is stepped down to positive 5V DC, which is what many game consoles use. The excess voltage is given off as heat from the regulator, which is why voltage regulators have big heat sinks screwed onto them.

I like the details. :) OK so outside of the NES, I was accustomed to two designs with how a console receives power.

1) There is a brick/adapter of some sort outside of the console to perform conversion to DC and bring the voltage down to what's expected.

2) There is only a cable, and the conversion process is handled by a component built directly into the console.

Over the years, in Nintendo's case, it seems they couldn't decide where the conversion should take place. They went from at the outlet with a brick, to at the rear of the console with N64, to somewhere in the middle with GC/Wii.

Anyway I still don't see the logic with making the NES adapter a brick. It should have just been either design style 1) or 2) not a hybrid of the two. The FC is older and was designed to receive DC from the brick. Why change it? Thanks to the stupid design there's an additional drawback. The AC for FC is also the AC for SFC. You only needed to have one and you can power either of your consoles with it. Since the NES adapter is weird, I suspect the connector for the AC port on the SNES was altered on purpose to prevent people from using NES adapters on it, which would blow the system. Unlike our friends in Japan we were stuck with two bricks. Counterintuitive huh.

Like you said you can toss the NES adapter altogether and just use a brick that will send DC to the NES.

Wiggyx: Thanks for the photo of the SS showing the expected voltage range. That fuse design is probably what the Mega CD was equipped with, yeah? :)

[Aussie2B]

If you keep having your systems get fried, maybe the wiring in your house sucks.

I've been using a whole bunch of different Japanese systems for around a decade without any converters, and I have never had a problem.

In my circle of friends, many of us have Japanese systems, with some of them in use since the 90s, never with a converter, and they're all fine too.

No one will ever convince me that "Get a converter or you'll kill your Japanese system!" is anything but fear-mongering based on a few anecdotal experiences that probably have nothing to do with not using a converter.

[jb143]

Why is this so important? Because those boneheads released the NES adapter without doing conversion to DC! It feeds AC directly to the console and since every other console doesn't have this stupid design, if you try using the NES adapter you will blow the unit. :( I still don't understand why the NES adapter is a brick if it isn't doing any conversion.


I wouldn't call this a stupid design. It was a design decision for sure but a perfectly valid one. In fact, at others have pointed out, you can accidentally use a DC adapter(positive center or negative center) on it and it might work just fine.

What I would call a dumb design decision is changing the polarity on the AC adapter between models of the Sega Genesis.

A lot of confusion and misinformation about AC adapters and power supplies in this thread but I think others have already helped clear them up for the most part so I'm left without much to add.

[ApolloBoy]

That fuse design is probably what the Mega CD was equipped with, yeah? :)
The Sega CD uses a small Pico II fuse which almost looks like a resistor on end. The only systems I know of that use glass fuses are the TG-16, PC Engine, TurboDuo/PCE Duo, Saturn, and PSX.

[delafro]

So if I use the included Japanese Adaptor with my PC Engine Duo R (Model PAD-130, Input: AC 100V 50/60 Hz, Output: DC 9V 1000mA) in the US, it won't fry my system?

Sorry if this was more clearly explained above, I love electronics, but I have almost no idea of how they actually work.

[The Dord]

surge suppressors are not voltage convertors, keep running your systems like that and eventually youll regret it. Especially if they are plugged in all day every day. If you dont fry the entire system you are seriously straining the components inside the machine. Never run a system or any electrical product for that matter at any higher voltage than what is recommended, yeah sure it may work just fine plugged into the wall but the internal damage you are doing each time is incomprehensible. Thats why I NEVER purchase used Japanese systems that are already in the US/Canada. God only knows how much damage is already done to the internals...


To everyone already owning or considering owning a Japanese system in the US/Canada:

The answer is as simple as this, Buy a voltage convertor for $15 bucks, use the correct power adapter for the system, and no problems will ever arise. If you dont follow these 2 simple rules, well, have fun literally watching your money and hobby burn up right in front of you.

Doy you have an amazon link to this $15 voltage converter by chance? Thank you in advance. :)

[BlastProcessing402]

Are you sure the smell is coming from the game? Have you bathed recently? :ass:

But in seriousness, one time I tried to run my 32x with the top of the case off, and it made a burning smell. I thought I'd ruined it, but after putting the top back on it it was fine.

[ApolloBoy]

So if I use the included Japanese Adaptor with my PC Engine Duo R (Model PAD-130, Input: AC 100V 50/60 Hz, Output: DC 9V 1000mA) in the US, it won't fry my system?

Sorry if this was more clearly explained above, I love electronics, but I have almost no idea of how they actually work.
No. If you're concerned about using Japanese PSUs, I'd suggest using an American equivalent as opposed to wasting money on a voltage converter.

[Parodius Duh!]

Pardon me if I'm missing something, but isn't a surge protector intended to prevent spikes from frying electronics, regardless of the intended voltage input, not a converter? The same spike could harm your US systems as well, so I don't see how this is an issue exclusive to JP consoles/electronics. I'm not saying that a convertor isn't ever a good idea, but rather that it's not what's preventing spikes from harming your JP electronics.



Of Course my systems are plugged into a voltage converter which is THEN plugged into a surge suppressor (Which only suppress the surge of 110-120+ volts or whatever is standard in your country, you need the voltage converter to reduce the input to Japanese standard 100v).. The system needs to run at the correct voltage it was made for, otherwise it is just risky business. Probably blew the fuse in the saturns, it produced a burning electronics smell.. regardless it was due to the higher voltage and shouldnt have happened according to some. Surge Suppressors are great of course but without the voltage converter the system is still being overfed. I do everything right with my imported systems, use official power adapters, voltage converter, surge suppressor. No problems over here anymore! :D






No. If you're concerned about using Japanese PSUs, I'd suggest using an American equivalent as opposed to wasting money on a voltage converter.


Wasting Money? $15 bucks and never having to worry about your systems frying (as long as you use the correct factory power adapter) doesnt seem like a waste to me at all.




Doy you have an amazon link to this $15 voltage converter by chance? Thank you in advance. :)

Not Amazon, and my bad they are $17.98 now...still an incredible deal and if you search other sites you can find single socket $10 converters

http://www.voltagetransformers.com/products/Power-Bright-100W-Step-up-%26-down-Japan-Transformer.html

[Ed Oscuro]

Just outta curiosity, this problem didn't crop up with any other game? I don't have any Mega Man 5 to test against.

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=44661

One of those evergreen topics...There is one thing I've seen written by a few electronics engineers (but of course keep in mind that they weren't asked SPECIFICALLY about these units, many of which are old and were never meant to be engineered to run at 120V so this engineering nicety might not actually apply in some cases) - they typically have a voltage regulator inside which allows at least a +/- 10V (possibly more, and way more of course if you have a computer power supply with a switch for 240V/110V) variation in the lines.

It does make sense that a 100V device would get warmer when run on 110/120V, but there isn't much that's resistive even in old games consoles. Resistive devices (i.e. hair dryers) are where voltage differences are most dangerous and obvious.

That said, I was looking for step-down transformers lately and didn't see anything at a good price. So thank you, Parodius Duh!, because maybe now I'll be able to play Paro Da! on my XVI long-term (If I get it working again that is) . I have a feeling I've been there before, but I didn't find it again on my recent searches which were for higher-capacity, but much more expensive and probably more difficult to order as well. The X68000 XVI's normal running wattage should be around 50W (so long as you don't try to plug anything into its built-in 300W output plug...no idea what that's in there for, it's not really a good idea imo) so that should have more than enough capacity for just the system.

I have even been thinking about getting a power conditioner...an "ideal" (but complex and possibly prone to more problems) setup would probably be to drive your domestic TV / monitor off one line (with a surge suppressor at least) and to run anything particularly fragile off its own power line: wall socket, to battery backup / surge suppressor, to power conditioner, to step-down transformer (although I have no idea how much extra draw this would pull from the mains, nor whether the stuff downstream will play nice with the battery backup, nor whether the power conditioner will have any discernible impact on power after the step-down transformer).

Still, I do not think that running a small battery backup / suppressor (to prevent undervoltages as well as spike damage) and then a step-down is unreasonable when dealing with very elderly or valuable electronics. I've got my computer hooked up to them and it does make a difference.

Something else that people don't think about much at all, but which could be very interesting, is the replacement of old caps not just with identical specced components, but matching ESR values with solid polymer capacitors. I don't know a ton about the subject, however, except that it's not a good idea to mess with different style caps in the power supply design.

Small aside: It's hard to find GOOD surge suppression. Any step altering power - from conditioners, surge suppressors / battery backups, to transformers - wastes some energy, so use these advisedly.

Final note: Unplug your stuff when it's not in use. (Though then you'd probably be doing well to get some dummy plugs to buffer against extra wear on the connectors - believe it or not even power prongs can fail after repeated insertion. It's a more pressing problem with delicate data cables, like the analog RGB for VGA monitors.)