Alternatives to SNES Shell

[o.pwuaioc]

So, I'm looking to replace my yellowed SNES shell. I originally thought of getting a broken Super Famicom for cheap, but I can't seem to find one. I'm not quite sure I want to paint it (tends to look tacky, though I've seen some alright paint jobs). What alternatives are there?

[wiggyx]

SNS-001 or SNS-101?

[o.pwuaioc]

Oops, sorry, SNS-001. If it were a mini, I would have just waited until you had a prototype ready. :P

[wiggyx]

LOL!

Well, I do plan on doing the SNES phat as well...

In the meantime, give it a gnarly paint job :P

[xelement5x]

If you want to spend some time messing around with it, you can try Retr0Bright: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/

[o.pwuaioc]

If you want to spend some time messing around with it, you can try Retr0Bright: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/

Living in an apt in NYC means I have no outside access to sunlight, no porch or backyard. Someone suggested a UV light, but then really I think I want to do something different with it. Same with my NES toaster. I want to do something interesting and creative with it.

[Shulamana]

I tried doing this myself and my (circa 1993) SNS-001 board would not fit inside my Super Famicom shell without some modification I wasn't willing to do. Which is a shame because my Super Famicom's board has a severe case of the bright vertical bar issue.

[o.pwuaioc]

I tried doing this myself and my (circa 1993) SNS-001 board would not fit inside my Super Famicom shell without some modification I wasn't willing to do. Which is a shame because my Super Famicom's board has a severe case of the bright vertical bar issue.

I had no idea they weren't compatibile. How exactly were they incompatible? The board too wide? Some unnecessary plastic?

[wiggyx]

The controller ports are different (spaced differently, not the shape), but other than that, they should be interchangeable :|

[TheChristoph]

LOL!

Well, I do plan on doing the SNES phat as well...

In the meantime, give it a gnarly paint job :P


EDIT: Nevermind, found your thread.... and WOW.

[Shulamana]

I had no idea they weren't compatibile. How exactly were they incompatible? The board too wide? Some unnecessary plastic?

IIRC the screw holes didn't line up properly, and you couldn't get the board to physically fit inside the Super Famicom shell without cutting holes in the shell itself, additionally I couldn't find an easy way to remove the plastic surrounding the I/O and power connectors in the back.


The controller ports are different (spaced differently, not the shape), but other than that, they should be interchangeable :|

Controller ports connect via a ribbon cable, this isn't the issue at all.

[o.pwuaioc]

IIRC the screw holes didn't line up properly, and you couldn't get the board to physically fit inside the Super Famicom shell without cutting holes in the shell itself, additionally I couldn't find an easy way to remove the plastic surrounding the I/O and power connectors in the back.

Thanks for the heads up on this. Sorry to keep probing, but I have to make sure it's hopeless before I give up. :P

When you say you had to cut holes into the shell, would these holes be visible from the outside, or only from the inside?

[wiggyx]

That was my point. The only difference is the controller port, and that's a non-issue.

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k99/wiggyx/f614d79d.jpg

Exactly the same.

[Pikkon]

That's because the boards you have are the redesigned one,no APU,that's why than are interchangeable without any modification.

I have a ntsc motherboard(has the APU)in a pal snes case that used the redesigned board,I did have to drill a new hole and cut some plastic inside the case but after that it fit like a glove.

[wiggyx]

Then I would just use a CPU-01 SFC shell. Personally, I wouldn't want to cut one of these up unless they were already in pretty rough shape.

[Shulamana]

Ahh yes, now I remember, that's the reason. My SFC doesn't have the socket APU, so it is indeed the newer board revision. I suppose the point I would try to make is that there's no outward way of telling without knowing the serial number range at which the board revisions start, or looking at the back of the instruction manual (mine has a date rubber stamped on it anyway).

[wiggyx]

There are ways to tell from the outside. Here's some help from fellow forum member and SNES mod guru izarate


"SHVCs:
- FCC information is in a label underneath the console.
- Printed "EJECT"
- Cartridge connector edges are silver (open the cartridge slot cover and look through the little slits on the edge of the plastic around the connector)
Note: All silver connectors can be replaced.

GPMs:
- FCC information is molded on the underside of the console
- Molded "EJECT"
- Small grey label close to the power switch
- Cartridge connector edges are silver (open the cartridge slot cover and look through the little slits on the edge of the plastic around the connector)
Note: All silver connectors can be replaced.

RGBs, 1CHIPs:
- FCC information is molded on the underside of the console
- Molded "EJECT"
- Small grey label close to the power switch
- Cartridge connector edges are black (open the cartridge slot cover and look through the little slits on the edge of the plastic around the connector)
Note: Black edged connectors are fixed and cannot be replaced.

I edited the bit about the molded versus printed eject buttons. He had it reversed, otherwise it's spot on.


I only have one SFC, so I can't do any comparison here on my own, but I imagine that at least a couple of the changes that were made to the SNES (appearance-wise) were also made to the SFC.

[Richie]

If you want to spend some time messing around with it, you can try Retr0Bright: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/

Thanks for providing this link. Gonna give it a shot with my yellowed SNES.