Anyone ever attempted lifting a label off a game cart to put on another?

[Tanooki]

I have this spare cart housing for a SNES game and I have a pretty jacked up body on my Mega Man X2 game. I'd like to try if it won't ruin the sticker, lifting MMX2 off the bad and putting it on my spare.

Have any of you ever attempted this?

I know a good way to re-glue it back down but I'm afraid of ripping up the label.

[Genesaturn]

I have this spare cart housing for a SNES game and I have a pretty jacked up body on my Mega Man X2 game. I'd like to try if it won't ruin the sticker, lifting MMX2 off the bad and putting it on my spare.

Have any of you ever attempted this?

I know a good way to re-glue it back down but I'm afraid of ripping up the label.

I've never tried this and I'd be scared to. If the game didn't work I wouldn't mind as much, but if it plays why bother? I don't think the old blow dryer trick would work on this..but I could be wrong.

[xelement5x]

I've never done it, it's normally easier to just swap the case housings but I see what you're trying to do.

If I was in the same position I'd try and disassemble the cart and use a hairdryer on high or heat gun on low to reheat the glue to loosen the label from the shell. I'd probably also start on a corner and use and Xacto knife or similar to get under the label once the glue was warm and loose, then slowly work it up.

It still sounds like it would be kind of tricky though, I have no idea what kind of adhesive they might have used to keep labels on there.

[Sysop]

Personally, I'd just leave the label like it is, there is no real point in trying to remove it as there is always the chance you might potentially damage it. Of course, I might be wrong on this.

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

Don't do it. It won't end good.

[wiggyx]

Don't bother. I've tried this on many, many sports carts over the years in order to find a technique that works consistently to no avail. Even if you do get it off, it's very unlikely that it will remain nice and crease free. Pulling the label up and off the plastic bit by bit causes problems. It'll crease, wrinkle, deform, etc.

The only luck I've ever had is with GB/GBC/GBA carts. The stickers are small, and that tends to help, although I still don't recommend it as consistency is again an issue.

I would consider a reproduction label if you are really itching for a clean appearance.

[Tanooki]

Yeah see that's the concern. The hair dryer method I know will work, but at what cost which is kind of why I asked and didn't bring it up either. I've used one to get off other glues that just won't die. The MMX2 game I have someone fubar'd the crap out of the casing which surprises me why the label other than a ball point pen type dot of a nick is in great shape. I think someone dropped some burning hot melted red candle wax on the front right of it as it fused into the plastic with a huge red dot. It drove me up the wall so I used a magic eraser and 'shaved' it down into a little dent to remove it. I'd feel guilty about that but whoever had it before who I got it from seemed to tried to get intimate with it with a magic eraser or sand paper as it's rubbed mostly smooth all over front and back. Inside someone spilled a coke on it at some point, was an hour to clean up the insides almost. It's ugly, but it was also only $10. :P

I have considered a reproduction label. I can make one like for like as you'd find on a the real SNES label, other than I can't make those shiny plastic layered labels, but I could mock up a believable cheapo glossy paper one the made in mexico carts had at the end that don't take kindly to anything other than water.

[Gameguy]

I wouldn't bother, I'd just keep the cart and casing as is even if it looks ugly. I'd still keep an eye out for another copy though.

[The 1 2 P]

Is the label you want to replace just peeling in places or is it all together creased and falling apart all over?

[sloan]

I don't understand all the naysayers. Get a heat gun (not a blow dryer) and use low heat setting. Be sure to not get the nozzle closer than about 4 inches, use even back and forth motion, and be careful to not apply the heat for more than about 20 seconds at a time.

Once properly heated, your fingernail (no razor scraper or exacto knife needed) will lift the corner easily. Then, the label should come off with even pulling force.

Get some Elmer's contact cement or similar, apply evenly and sparingly to the label back, then apply the label to the other game case. Use your fingers to press out any wrinkles or bubbles, and a rag soaked in goo-gone to clean up any excess glue that squirts out past the edges of the label. You will be amazed at how professional it looks when all is done.

[wiggyx]

I don't understand all the naysayers. Get a heat gun (not a blow dryer) and use low heat setting. Be sure to not get the nozzle closer than about 4 inches, use even back and forth motion, and be careful to not apply the heat for more than about 20 seconds at a time.

Once properly heated, your fingernail (no razor scraper or exacto knife needed) will lift the corner easily. Then, the label should come off with even pulling force.

Get some Elmer's contact cement or similar, apply evenly and sparingly to the label back, then apply the label to the other game case. Use your fingers to press out any wrinkles or bubbles, and a rag soaked in goo-gone to clean up any excess glue that squirts out past the edges of the label. You will be amazed at how professional it looks when all is done.

Using Goo gone or any oil-based solvent near a label like that is bad news. If the oil hits the edge of the label, then the label will suck it up like a sponge and it's gonna stay there for a LONG time.

Do you have any pics of labels that you've transferred? I've never seen this sort of thing done well.

[xelement5x]

Using Goo gone or any oil-based solvent near a label like that is bad news. If the oil hits the edge of the label, then the label will suck it up like a sponge and it's gonna stay there for a LONG time.

Do you have any pics of labels that you've transferred? I've never seen this sort of thing done well.

I use lighter fluid with naptha in it specifically because it evaporates so quickly and once it's done drying you can't even tell the label was so heavily saturated. It probably depends somewhat on the label, but i use it on Sega and Nintendo carts all the time and they always turn out great.

[MarioMania]

Can you take a pic of the cart so we can see

[fluid_matrix]

I don't understand all the naysayers. Get a heat gun (not a blow dryer) and use low heat setting. Be sure to not get the nozzle closer than about 4 inches, use even back and forth motion, and be careful to not apply the heat for more than about 20 seconds at a time.

Once properly heated, your fingernail (no razor scraper or exacto knife needed) will lift the corner easily. Then, the label should come off with even pulling force.

Get some Elmer's contact cement or similar, apply evenly and sparingly to the label back, then apply the label to the other game case. Use your fingers to press out any wrinkles or bubbles, and a rag soaked in goo-gone to clean up any excess glue that squirts out past the edges of the label. You will be amazed at how professional it looks when all is done.Yea, I'd love to see examples of ones you have done. Maybe even do a how-to. Because I've tried numerous times and have never been able to even remove a complete label without it tearing. I just reprint them instead. Much easier.

[wiggyx]

I use lighter fluid with naptha in it specifically because it evaporates so quickly and once it's done drying you can't even tell the label was so heavily saturated. It probably depends somewhat on the label, but i use it on Sega and Nintendo carts all the time and they always turn out great.

That's a pretty good product to use. I use something called Bestine, which is really similar. It flashes off even faster and is specifically formulated for removing soft adhesives without damaging the paper that surrounds the gooey area ;)

http://www.dickblick.com/products/bestine-solvent-and-thinner/

[snes_collector]

I'd just look out for another copy then sell the one you have now. If you do replace it with a reprinted one and have to sell at some point, it will be much harder to move, as not many will want a cart with a replaced label. Personally, I'd rather have the original label in bad shape then a reprint.

[fluid_matrix]

I'd just look out for another copy then sell the one you have now. If you do replace it with a reprinted one and have to sell at some point, it will be much harder to move, as not many will want a cart with a replaced label. Personally, I'd rather have the original label in bad shape then a reprint.
I sell carts with reprinted labels all the time on ebay and have never had an issue.

[snes_collector]

Do people know ahead of time they are reprinted? Maybe this practice is more accepted than I thought.

[eggwolio]

The only label I've ever removed easily, was the lenticular Majora's Mask one. It was easy because of the design of the label. I got a 64drive and wanted it in a gold case, so I transplanted MM to a grey case which I wrote all sorts of disclaimers inside of explaining that it's not some bizarre rarity, just a case swap, in case I die and someone sells off my collection. Figured that was the best way to keep things honest.

[fluid_matrix]

Do people know ahead of time they are reprinted? Maybe this practice is more accepted than I thought.
Yes, I always clearly state if the labels have been replaced. If the labels are torn, have marker on them, or rental stickers on them, I reprint.

Here's an example of an N64 007 cart I recently sold on eBay. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/160861388944)