Anyody local to North Jersey that can do some basic JAMMA work?

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

Hey DP'ers,

I've got a JAMMA harness in my cocktail cabinet that needs some very minor rewiring to accommodate a new multi-game-board that happens to have some odd requirements on the common grounding wires.

Is there anybody local to North Jersey that's got experience with manipulating an already installed JAMMA harness?

From the research I've done, I'd say it's probably going to consist of removing the existing common ground @ 27, clips and all entirely from the harness, re-wiring the common grounds for both sides of the table to 28, and adding two buttons (tied into the common ground) to simulate coin 1 and coin 2 (this may require either tying into the wires that are already going to the coin mech or adding totally new ones, not sure there).

I don't THINK that's a lot of work where JAMMA is concerned but I'm not going to touch the thing myself. I've got ZERO wiring skills and ZERO faith in my ability to not break my setup.

If you're semi-local to me I'll pay for your time and effort and transport you to/from my place.

Let me know! Thanks!

[Greg2600]

you should ask around on shmups.system11.org

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

you should ask around on shmups.system11.org

Are you a regular there? Do you have a decent post count? You want to pass along my needs and see what the responses are?

I know most niche gaming communities don't take kindly to 0 post count users coming in and asking for help much less manual labor.

I got IP banned from NeoGeo.com for starting an account and asking if anybody had a 1-slot MVS for sale.

[Ed Oscuro]

Neo Geo boards are a cesspit most of the time, hence they probably have to be extra strict with trades. Wouldn't want any known good traders from Digital Press scamming people out of $30K worth of MVS slots...

I don't mean to be insulting, but you're really sure this needs something special for grounding? I'd be interested to know what this board is.

If I were you I'd make a post at Shmups in its Hardware subforum, because last thing I'd want is to be in any way responsible for damaging the cabinet.

You won't be able to access the trading section straight away, but you can ask about JAMMA service in the NJ area and I would be happy to say that I know you from here and think you're alright.

Since this is strictly speaking a hardware issue, who knows, maybe somebody knows a wiring-free solution. It might just be as simple as buying a prewired JAMMA loom and just pulling one wire and putting it in somewhere else, with alligator clips or something else soldering-free.

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

Neo Geo boards are a cesspit most of the time, hence they probably have to be extra strict with trades. Wouldn't want any known good traders from Digital Press scamming people out of $30K worth of MVS slots...

Is that a thing that actually happened?

Sounds like a very specific reference!!

As far as the board goes, it's this one:

http://www.shop.cajunarcade.com/276-in-1-Version-14-00002.htm

It's a MAME-on-a-board upgrade to the super common 60-in-1 that I have sitting in my machine now.

I know, they're not great in terms of 100 percent authenticity, but for the most part they do the job (and I'm the furthest thing from picky).

Every place that sells it has a shit-ton of disclaimers about the common ground at 27 needing to be completely empty or else it causes malfunction on a majority of the games or non-boot of the whole unit. Even the anti-static bag that it came in had a sticker explaining that improper wiring of the JAMMA harness could cause the board to fail. I've even seen some reviews that confirm that to be true and that it doesn't work right on a standard wired JAMMA because of that stupid ground restriction.

I also don't have "buttons" wired to my coin 1 and 2 which the board needs for game selection off the menu, so, I'll need that.

I can join that other forum and post, but, again - you guys know how it goes with new users popping in and over-reaching, I don't want to be perceived as a problem right out of the gate.

As far as swapping JAMMA looms, none of the existing stuff in my cocktail is set up with quick-release tabs on the micro-switches, it's all hard-wired in, so whatever gets done it's going to probably need some level of cutting or soldering, which shouldn't be a problem for somebody who is good at that because what's in there is really clean and organized work done by Stonic, who unfortunately isn't available to do any additional work on it at the moment. (Per this call for help.)

(Stonic if you happen to come across this out and you are available for help, hit a brother up via PM and let me know!)

[Ed Oscuro]

About the $30k, that's just a reference to the notorious Aero Fighters 3 deal (brokered by NG natives).

I don't mean swapping JAMMA looms, I mean building one with a male connector to go between the board and your cab's connector.

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

About the $30k, that's just a reference to the notorious Aero Fighters 3 deal (brokered by NG natives).

I don't mean swapping JAMMA looms, I mean building one with a male connector to go between the board and your cab's connector.

I hadn't heard about that "deal", sounds like quite the story. *edit* OH, the airport shop thing. I had read that ... didn't know there was anything shady going on beyond it just being notable for the outrageous price reported paid for the game.

I also hadn't thought about the possibility of a converter to go between harnesses. Maybe that's a thing that can be done.

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

Okay.

Joined the Shmups forum and submitted thread with my needs, it needs to be approved by moderation before it posts, so we'll see what happens.

Thanks for the advice guys.

And of course my request still stands for anybody here who can help me. Don't hesitate to drop me a PM!

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

The post got approved if anybody has anything to contribute to the discussion there.

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?p=889075#p889075

Thanks!

[Greg2600]

Good 'cause I only just started posting there myself, and probably annoyed several people complaining about the lack of viable video upscalers for games priced under $400!

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

good 'cause i only just started posting there myself, and probably annoyed several people complaining about the lack of viable video upscalers for games priced under $400!

what? You? Annoy people? Never!

[Ed Oscuro]

Threads looks good Frankie!

Good 'cause I only just started posting there myself, and probably annoyed several people complaining about the lack of viable video upscalers for games priced under $400!
If you can see the Trading Section, go look at the $130 XRGB-2 (or is it a 2+? seems likely because I recall it's much cheaper than the $200 I just spent on a 2+ to complement my XRGB-2) on sale.

Yeah, the Framemeister is expensive. If you can make do with VGA output the older ones are good, though!

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

Radio silence in that thread.

I must have stumped them, or perhaps similar to this community, they're fresh out of arcade techs in this area.

[bust3dstr8]

Just saw the picture of the cab, you have two leaf switch buttons per side now?

This may not be the right board for that cab.....you would probably need to totally rebuild
the CP for 6 button support.

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

Seems like a pretty straightforward mod. You would need to add three P1 and P2 kick buttons and then add
the wires to the loom. You could cut the connection on the double ground in a jamma adapter and add
the 6 wires with quick connects to that.

So if you had your loom with 6 extra wires and .187 terminal connectors you could just plug in the jamma
adapter and then plug in your 6 buttons and be good to go.



Edit: Is your control panel set up for 6 buttons?

Simple is good as far as me enlisting help and explaining what would need to be done. I'll make note of anything you elaborate on.

Unfortunately, as I stated - I'm absolutely incapable of doing anything to the wiring myself. I certifiably incapable of doing electrical engineering. I will break it if I touch it that I can guarantee.

As far as the current wiring - It's not set up for six buttons.

It's a generic Japanese 80s cocktail that's currently wired for 2 buttons, 1P Start, 2P Start and I BELIEVE that the coin ops are wired up.


Just saw the picture of the cab, you have two leaf switch buttons per side now?

This may not be the right board for that cab.....you would probably need to totally rebuild
the CP for 6 button support.

Odd, all the stuff on the board is early 80s vertical. Nothing that has 6 buttons.

I don't have any problem drilling out some holes to accommodate an extra button or two for menu selections if it needs it. It's just a generic cabinet.

Based on the operations notes from one site that sells it, it seems like my two issues are - the grounding needs to be moved off 27 and I need both coin ops moved from the the coin mechs to physical buttons.


Operation Notes:

1. The standard JAMMA Harness has ground wires where they will conflict with the operation of this board. Refer to the manual and make sure your harness is configured properly.

2. At the game select screen. To browse the games the "2 Player Coin Up" Button / Mech must be activated. This will allow you to browse the games. "1 Player Coin Up" Does nothing in game browse mode. Once you have selected a game and it has cycled through its boot up sequence, then you can press "1 Player Coin Up" Button / Mech to add credits to play the selected game.

[bust3dstr8]

This board must be used for different game packs then...if this pack is all 80s game you should be fine with the 2 buttons.

I would just open up the pcb and cut the traces to Jamma 27/e

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

This board must be used for different game packs then...if this pack is all 80s game you should be fine with the 2 buttons.

I would just open up the pcb and cut the traces to Jamma 27/e

Oh yeah, I'm certain that 100% of the games on the board are 2-buttons maximum with the exception of a few Capcom stuff like Gun.Smoke that has dip-switch settings on the game that will allow for single button action.

Okay, as far as the hardware modifications go - what you're proposing would be a board-modification solution. Likely easier than rewiring the ground stuff. Check.

Then it would just be a matter of rewiring the coin mechs to buttons for the menu selections. Right?

[bust3dstr8]

You wouldn't need to rewire anything. You could add two buttons to your CP and then move the wires from the coin
slots up to those for easy use.

Modding the board seems like the easier route here. Severing the trace is the same as removing the pins from the
Jamma harness. You said you can break stuff...so get a hobby knife and break those traces to 27 and e :king:

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

You wouldn't need to rewire anything. You could add two buttons to your CP and then move the wires from the coin
slots up to those for easy use.

Modding the board seems like the easier route here. Severing the trace is the same as removing the pins from the
Jamma harness. You said you can break stuff...so get a hobby knife and break those traces to 27 and e :king:

Here's a question though, if I don't move the ground wires from 27 over to 28 and the circuit on the board essentially terminates to nothing .... will all of my buttons/switches still work okay? Doesn't a button/switch use the common ground in some way that it's necessary/required wiring?

[bust3dstr8]

Jamma control lines are supposed to be normally open.


The ground could be a problem depending on what the those 2 places where used for.
If they where your ground loops for controls, coin, test, and service you have a problem.
If they where addition lines to the PSU you will be all set.
You would need to confirm with a meter while the jamma harness is removed from the pcb.

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

Jamma control lines are supposed to be normally open.


The ground could be a problem depending on what the those 2 places where used for.
If they where your ground loops for controls, coin, test, and service you have a problem.
If they where addition lines to the PSU you will be all set.
You would need to confirm with a meter while the jamma harness is removed from the pcb.

Yeah, that's the thing.

27 and 28 (common ground) are all my buttons and joysticks, so I do believe that I'd have to move the wires on 27 over to 28 - hence the "interference" that they cause on this board which for some BIZARRE reason has 27 set for a random button in MAME's interface.

1 and 2 are my power supply grounds.

Sucks that I know so much about all of this through research but I can't cut and solder wires worth a fuck.