Help with Ebay selling

[counterfeit3w]

Good morning,

I have been wanting to thin out my collection for awhile now, but I am not the best at eBay selling. I've sold in the past and have read their help/guides but still feel uncomfortable with selling on there. I have a few questions for those who sell frequently on eBay.

1. What is the best way to ship single & double case PS1 games? I am assuming bubble mailers but I'm afraid of damage occurring during transit.

2. I have a few controllers to thin out as well. I'm assuming I would just box these up and use eBay's shipping calculator to estimate shipping for the buyer. What is the best way to price out the controllers?

3. With some of the PS1 games is it better to sell them in a set (i.e. Resident Evil series) or piece by piece?

4. Do most use standard shipping to keep cost low?

Any other helpful hints/tips/general guidelines would be greatly appreciated.

[wiggyx]

Good morning,

I have been wanting to thin out my collection for awhile now, but I am not the best at eBay selling. I've sold in the past and have read their help/guides but still feel uncomfortable with selling on there. I have a few questions for those who sell frequently on eBay.

1. What is the best way to ship single & double case PS1 games? I am assuming bubble mailers but I'm afraid of damage occurring during transit.

2. I have a few controllers to thin out as well. I'm assuming I would just box these up and use eBay's shipping calculator to estimate shipping for the buyer. What is the best way to price out the controllers?

3. With some of the PS1 games is it better to sell them in a set (i.e. Resident Evil series) or piece by piece?

4. Do most use standard shipping to keep cost low?


Any other helpful hints/tips/general guidelines would be greatly appreciated.

1) BOXES! Mailers = broken cases.

2) how do you mean? There is no one "best way". Check completed listings on ebay that are comparable to what you plan on selling, then set you prices/expectations there.

3) Better is relative. Selling in a lot saves you time. Selling individually often means more money in your pocket (at the expense of your time).

4) Do you mean 1st class? I use priority about 99% of the time. Free flat rate boxes mean that I a) don't spend mucg on packing materials, and b) flat rate takes any weighing and measuring out of the equation.

[Edmond Dantes]

I used to sell stuff on eBay, and here were my experiences.

For CD and DVD-based games, sometimes you can get away with a bubble mailer, but it's safer to use a box with lots of padding. Make sure the box is padded on all sides--some sellers like to put the games at the bottom, and then put the bubble wrap on top, and that doesn't help much. Also, have them marked "fragile." If they're games that are worth something (like, say, Xenogears) then I would use a box with lots of padding.

Shipping prices... I'd use eBay's calculator and try to be fair (I always claimed items were slightly heavier than they actually were, because IIRC eBay liked to lowball you, but don't go claiming a single game weighs ten pounds or anything ridiculous like that). And yes, most buyers will use standard shipping. In fact, the only time I've ever seen buyers ask for express shipping is if either they're nervous and need the game fast, or if you offer free express shipping.

Now, as for how to price the items and whether to sell in sets or break them up... that depends entirely on what your purpose is. Are you trying to clear space or are you trying to make profit? If you're trying to clear space, sell them in lots. If you're trying to make profit, sell them individually.

One last thing you might not have thought of:

BIN vs. Auction. I dunno if you still can, but when I was on eBay you could set your listing to be either BIN only or Auction-only. I would definitely pick one or the other (and avoid the usual "BIN, but auction as an option" malarkey, which usually gets you screwed in seller fees).

Each type has positives and negatives. BIN allows you to set a definite price that you WILL get... IF anyone buys the item.

If you choose auction, always start at one cent. Trying to force a high starting bid will just alienate buyers. You might as well list it as a BIN if you're gonna do that.

Auctions are a gamble--a game you think is worth $80 could wind up selling for $40, or it could overshoot your expectations and sell for $120. However, a lot of people bid on auctions because they expect to get a deal, and once someone has bid, they're usually locked in to buying. You're pretty much guaranteed to sell something with an auction (assuming anyone wants it).

Essentially, what I would do is use BINs for items I think are worth something, and auctions for items I think are worthless, or which I don't know the worth of.

Food for thought.

[Daltone]

The "put the game in a box" advice should be ignored at your peril!

[vrikkgwj]

The "put the game in a box" advice should be ignored at your peril!

Funny enough, I always use mailers! Cheaper, less work, and more importantly I've never had problems with them. Just wrap the games in some extra bubble packing sheets for more protection and you are good to go. Boxes are harder to obtain.

[wiggyx]

Funny enough, I always use mailers! Cheaper, less work, and more importantly I've never had problems with them. Just wrap the games in some extra bubble packing sheets for more protection and you are good to go. Boxes are harder to obtain.

No they're not. USPS priority mailers are free and plentiful. Hell, they'll deliver a stack of them to your front door for free.

[Daltone]

Funny enough, I always use mailers! Cheaper, less work, and more importantly I've never had problems with them. Just wrap the games in some extra bubble packing sheets for more protection and you are good to go. Boxes are harder to obtain.

I had a horrible experience when sending some Sat and DC games internationally to France. I'd always used bubble wrap envelopes with extra padding and a but of card to give them some ridgidity.

Two separate French buyers sent me pictures of exploded game cases. I felt awful about it, couldn't say more then "well... It's normally ok..."

I don't know what it is like elsewhere, but places like WH Smith (stationary shop) have loads of little individual boxes for about the same price as envelopes. I've started using them just so as not to have a repeat of last time.

Of course.. it could just be the effect of French postmen!

[Eternal Champion]

For cartridge games in their original boxes and cases (or even if loose) I always ship in a box, or cardboard protection around it inside a bubble mailer. I manage to find one somewhere, or cut one down to fit. It's what I want when I order anything that can be corner damaged, like a book or CD/DVD digipak; to me it's common courtesy.

[xelement5x]

If you choose auction, always start at one cent. Trying to force a high starting bid will just alienate buyers. You might as well list it as a BIN if you're gonna do that.

Auctions are a gamble--a game you think is worth $80 could wind up selling for $40, or it could overshoot your expectations and sell for $120. However, a lot of people bid on auctions because they expect to get a deal, and once someone has bid, they're usually locked in to buying. You're pretty much guaranteed to sell something with an auction (assuming anyone wants it).


This is mixed in my opinion, it really depends on how common the game is. If you've got a real common game that sells multiple times a week, a 1c auction is okay (I personally start at $1 though) since it'll work its way up. If you have a high dollar item that sells less frequently, put your starting price to about 70-80% of the going rate. That way you'll still be guaranteed to make some cash even if only a couple folks find your auction. It's also low enough that you'll get still get interested parties, but not so high that people just ignore the listing because it is a lower price than what it would normally end at.

Don't worry about relisting stuff to get a price you want, ebay gives you like 50 free listings a month now so there is no reason not to start with a higher price you're unsure of and work your way down as long as you have the time.

Also for me, anything with cardboard goes in a box, cd/dvds go in mailers with extra padding. First class mail is the way to go, shipping costs for anything under 13oz are cheap and delivery is about as fast as priority in my opinion.

[recorderdude]

Is there any way to get USPS mailers for free while also using calcuated shipping? I'm only asking because the difference in price for me between a "if it fits it ships" $4-6 envelope with a super light game and actually weighing the game+envelope and paying that much is significant.

[sloan]

I haven't seen it mentioned yet, but media mail is a cheap alternative to flat rate boxes. According to my local postmaster, media mail is for books, cd's, dvd's, etc. Take advantage of the low shipping rates with media mail, but like others have said, boxes are preferable to bubble mailer envelopes.

[PapaStu]

I haven't seen it mentioned yet, but media mail is a cheap alternative to flat rate boxes. According to my local postmaster, media mail is for books, cd's, dvd's, etc. Take advantage of the low shipping rates with media mail, but like others have said, boxes are preferable to bubble mailer envelopes.

The prices saved are often negligible and many post offices push back regarding what you're shipping and if it's media or not. Besides, it really drags out the delivery time of your items which just ends up making for pissed off sellers and negative feedback. Charge them what's fair for shipping and ship it in a manner that isn't stupid slow.

[WCP]

I'd like to jump in and ask a couple of extra questions. I haven't sold anything on Ebay in a LONG time, and mainly it was due to all the crazy fees and new policies that they had about what you can charge for shipping etc..


Here are my questions:

1. So, let's say that I'm trying to get $10 after all fees are paid to Ebay/Paypal, and I'm doing a BIN. What would my price have to be to clear $10 after all fees are factored in ? Assume that what I'm charging for shipping is the actual cost of shipping. My key would be making sure that I at least clear the amount that I need to clear. I know they have Ebay calculators and such, but I don't know how accurate they are with the most up to date fee's that Ebay and Paypal charge for everything.

2. What about the whole tax thing ? If you sell on Ebay do you charge tax ? I'm always worried about the tax man.

3. For the guys talking about the flat rate boxes, what can you fit in them ? Like how many SNES carts or SNES boxed games, or genesis carts, or PS1 jewel case games... Just some ballpark ideas would be cool, I've been out of the game so long.

4. What is the ideal day and time for your auction to end ?

[frogofdeath]

1. So, let's say that I'm trying to get $10 after all fees are paid to Ebay/Paypal, and I'm doing a BIN. What would my price have to be to clear $10 after all fees are factored in ? Assume that what I'm charging for shipping is the actual cost of shipping. My key would be making sure that I at least clear the amount that I need to clear. I know they have Ebay calculators and such, but I don't know how accurate they are with the most up to date fee's that Ebay and Paypal charge for everything.
Depending on how mich you are selling, currently ebay is letting you post 50 free auctions per month. This includes Buy It Now only if you also have a bidding option on the same item. The 50 limit also includes relisted items. I too don't sell much on ebay, but am currently selling 6 items so this good for me.


3. For the guys talking about the flat rate boxes, what can you fit in them ? Like how many SNES carts or SNES boxed games, or genesis carts, or PS1 jewel case games... Just some ballpark ideas would be cool, I've been out of the game so long.
My best reference is going to be an N64 box (which IIRC is the same size as an SNES box). You can fit one boxed N64 game in a small flat-rate box. There is a little space left on the side, which I add paper or some other packaging product to stop the game from sliding back-and-forth.

I just got up, but if nobody responds about cart or jewel cases, I'll test some out later and let you know more specifics.

[Tanooki]

1. So, let's say that I'm trying to get $10 after all fees are paid to Ebay/Paypal, and I'm doing a BIN. What would my price have to be to clear $10 after all fees are factored in ? Assume that what I'm charging for shipping is the actual cost of shipping. My key would be making sure that I at least clear the amount that I need to clear. I know they have Ebay calculators and such, but I don't know how accurate they are with the most up to date fee's that Ebay and Paypal charge for everything.

2. What about the whole tax thing ? If you sell on Ebay do you charge tax ? I'm always worried about the tax man.

3. For the guys talking about the flat rate boxes, what can you fit in them ? Like how many SNES carts or SNES boxed games, or genesis carts, or PS1 jewel case games... Just some ballpark ideas would be cool, I've been out of the game so long.

4. What is the ideal day and time for your auction to end ?

#1 -- Use this: http://www.newlifeauctions.com/calc.html It will calculate all the fees and percentages of losses from ebay+pp fees.
#2 -- No you don't charge tax, you're not an actual business. Think of it as an online garage sale, do you charge tax selling crap on your front lawn?
#3 -- Depends, check usps.com they do put the box dimensions up there and you can measure it. Like 2 NES games fit in a small flat rate priority.
#4 -- I try for it to end on a Saturday or Sunday, and I look to close at least 5PM eastern time so anyone can see it, plus prep time for Monday mail.

[xelement5x]

I roughly calculate that after ebay and PayPal fees I'm going to be out 20% of the total sale + shipping price. It's a bit high, but it about right for most stuff. Makes me sick to my stomach when I think about it but without ebay I'd probably only get half of my asking price on Craiglist.

When I sell stuff I forums, I normally knock that 20% right off the top, but a lot of forumites (myself included) will only bite if it's a good deal so it can take awhile to move stuff.

[vrikkgwj]

I roughly calculate that after ebay and PayPal fees I'm going to be out 20% of the total sale + shipping price. It's a bit high, but it about right for most stuff. Makes me sick to my stomach when I think about it but without ebay I'd probably only get half of my asking price on Craiglist.

When I sell stuff I forums, I normally knock that 20% right off the top, but a lot of forumites (myself included) will only bite if it's a good deal so it can take awhile to move stuff.

eBay and Paypal have to make their money too. Yeah, their fees have gone up a lot lately to the point of ridiculousness, but... it's better than not having any money.

I usually split my selling between eBay and Amazon, but I'm not doing a lot of either lately.

[Ed Oscuro]

1. So, let's say that I'm trying to get $10 after all fees are paid to Ebay/Paypal
Find a fee calculator online.

Tax - until you have to start reporting eBay tax, well, that's an honor code thing. Some tax agents will say "now, you don't know anything about buying on the internet...right? Right."

4. What is the ideal day and time for your auction to end ?
When do you normally go browse auctions? I try to time things for the weekend. Maybe in the evening, after dinner, when everybody's feeling "fat, dumb and happy" as the saying goes LOL

[bb_hood]

Tax - until you have to start reporting eBay tax, well, that's an honor code thing. Some tax agents will say "now, you don't know anything about buying on the internet...right? Right."


If you make a certain amount, you DO have to report ebay/amazon sales in your taxes.
If you sell over 21,000$ on ebay in a calender year they will send you a W2. If you open a seller account on amazon they will ask you for your social for tax purposes.
Also, If you bring in over 10,000$ via paypal in a year you really really should report it on your taxes. If you sell less than 10,000 than its probably not worth reporting, but once you hit the 10,000$ mark the government will take notice. The IRS does look at payments received though paypal, even more now than years before.

[wiggyx]

Is there any way to get USPS mailers for free while also using calcuated shipping? I'm only asking because the difference in price for me between a "if it fits it ships" $4-6 envelope with a super light game and actually weighing the game+envelope and paying that much is significant.

Flat rate boxes

https://store.usps.com/store/browse/subcategory.jsp?categoryId=subcatMSS_FlatRate&categoryNavIds=catGetMailingShippingSupplies%3Asub catMSS_FlatRate

For a game or two, small flat rate will almost always be just about the same price as calculated. No real reason to dick around with non-flat rate unless you're shipping more than what will fit in a small flat rate.



I haven't seen it mentioned yet, but media mail is a cheap alternative to flat rate boxes. According to my local postmaster, media mail is for books, cd's, dvd's, etc. Take advantage of the low shipping rates with media mail, but like others have said, boxes are preferable to bubble mailer envelopes.

Games aren't on that list, and my local post office has made that very clear to me on a couple of occasions. They also told me that Laser discs don't count LOL!



The prices saved are often negligible and many post offices push back regarding what you're shipping and if it's media or not. Besides, it really drags out the delivery time of your items which just ends up making for pissed off sellers and negative feedback. Charge them what's fair for shipping and ship it in a manner that isn't stupid slow.

This. Not worth the headache, plus you can't print media mail online via paypal, so screw that.



If you make a certain amount, you DO have to report ebay/amazon sales in your taxes.
If you sell over 21,000$ on ebay in a calender year they will send you a W2. If you open a seller account on amazon they will ask you for your social for tax purposes.
Also, If you bring in over 10,000$ via paypal in a year you really really should report it on your taxes. If you sell less than 10,000 than its probably not worth reporting, but once you hit the 10,000$ mark the government will take notice. The IRS does look at payments received though paypal, even more now than years before.

Paypal does indeed send out tax forms for any amount received over XXX. I can't recall exactly the amount, but they do. I'll have to check my records to see at which point they do so.

[bb_hood]

I haven't seen it mentioned yet, but media mail is a cheap alternative to flat rate boxes. According to my local postmaster, media mail is for books, cd's, dvd's, etc. Take advantage of the low shipping rates with media mail, but like others have said, boxes are preferable to bubble mailer envelopes.

If you want items to get broken or lost, media mail is the way to go. Strictly speaking, Media Mail is only for 'Educational Items/Supplies'. I have had numerous conversations with postal employees and the PM general about it.
This wont stop them from taking any books or anything else that you tell them "is books". People hear 'media mail' and think 'dvds/cds/video games = media, so that should work' but not really. On occasion they will open/inspect media mail packages and charge postage due or mail back the package, if its not books or whatever its supposed to be..

From personal experience I have received more than a few purchases shipped via media mail that have arrived 3 weeks after purchase and damaged.

[Tanooki]

Again from me too, don't use media mail. That's just meant for educational, supplies, magazine type stuff, publications and books. Games are specifically listed as not legit in their rule book and they'll charge you if they open it or scan the thing and find you're trying to pull something. And as others pointed out, since it's assumed to be flimsy but sturdy books and paper supplies, they treat it as rough and lazy as possible so it will get 'well loved' by the USPS and show up whenever they see fit.

If you're worried about the losses, just charge shipping to the buyer on ebay. I started doing it after the USPS rate hike this year because I was losing more money with free shipping than doing it. I will on loose small stuffs like handheld games do $2 in a bubble bag. For the medium sized weight stuff I do a flat $3 and if it is heavy enough and still fits into a bubble bag then $4. After that I just require priority mail flat rate depending on whatever box fits.

Sure ebay charges the FVF on the shipping as well as the winning total, but it comes out less, and with those flat rates I usually end up pocketing around 50cents so it plays against it anyway.

[Natty Bumppo]

If you want items to get broken or lost, media mail is the way to go. Strictly speaking, Media Mail is only for 'Educational Items/Supplies'. I have had numerous conversations with postal employees and the PM general about it.
This wont stop them from taking any books or anything else that you tell them "is books". People hear 'media mail' and think 'dvds/cds/video games = media, so that should work' but not really. On occasion they will open/inspect media mail packages and charge postage due or mail back the package, if its not books or whatever its supposed to be..

From personal experience I have received more than a few purchases shipped via media mail that have arrived 3 weeks after purchase and damaged.

I go round and round with the post office periodically (depending on who helps me) on this (and get all sorts of different answers). Media rate covers all sorts of stuff - not just books - video games (as computer readable materials), movies (in any format - covered as a sound recording) , records, cds, computer software.

http://pe.usps.com/businessmail101/classes/packageServices.htm

http://www.stamps.com/whitepapers/media-mail-rate-guide.pdf

I just bring a copy of these (or the one below) whenever I go to the post office with anything other than books. "Educational materials" really refers to applicable formats rather than content since anything in the formats covered can conceivably be used as educational materials in some context at some point in time - even video games.

To add to the confusion there is also a separate "library rate" which covers much of the same materials - but that has to be shipped to or from a library (or similar institutions such as schools and museums).

http://www.bsd.ufl.edu/maildocdata/onlinemailguide/uspsm.htm

There are some anomolies - if you want to mail a bunch of loose maps they don't qualify as media mail - but if you have a professionally bound atlas with the exact same maps it does.






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[Griking]

Don't allow bidders from Africa, Brazil or Italy. In my experiences there's just too much fraud involving these countries.

[Ed Oscuro]

The once near miss I had with a likely attempt at fraud (buyer opened a "item not sent" claim before the item could have even reached him) was in Brazil...luckily I was slow to ship so I avoided that one. Ended up costing me a ton of money because I never got around to reselling the item...new video cards don't age well. However, there are many people I know from Brazil or the region (as well as Italy) who I would happily deal with, because they have good reputations online.

I bought a really nice item from South Africa a little while ago with no problem. Have bought items from Italy as well.