how often do you clean your NES games

[Flam]

I know there are a lot of variables to this question, such as amount of play time. However, do any of you have a rule of thumb for cleaning games. I always give mine one good cleaning after I buy them, but do not know how often I should clean for maintenance.

[bigbacon]

i think I cleaned all my games for the first time in like 20 years like a month ago.

[Aussie2B]

Once, typically, when I first get them. As long as you don't blow on them or do anything to get them dirty, keep the contacts protected so they don't get dusty, and keep your system clean, you should be good to go for a long, long time. I've got SNES and Game Boy games I bought brand new in the early/mid 90s, and they're still perfectly clean because they've always stayed in their sleeves/baggies. The only time I clean stuff again is if I'm getting any issues getting a game to start up. Then I usually stop and give the game and system a quick cleaning, although considering I usually get nothing off of them when I do that, it's probably something other than dirt that's causing the issue.

[wiggyx]

When they need it, no more.

[retroman]

Only time I have ever cleaned a game is if it looked dirty. Which is only a few. Most games I have had since I was a kid I have never cleaned not once, and they still look as clean as day one.

[Tanooki]

Years ago when I had the time I'd give them a once over with alcohol and a qtip, but I only do it now if I look at the game and it appears to need it as I keep them on a shelf sideways in sleeves so dust stays out.

[treismac]

I clean (Brasso + Rubbing Alcohol) my games when I first buy them. No filthy games violate one of my Nintendo Entertainment Systems. Also, I clean a game when I pull it out my collection for the first time in a long time to ensure that it's good to go.

[RP2A03]

I only clean the my games when I first get them, then never again. The games that I have that were bought new have never been cleaned. The same goes for my NES. Boots first time, every time.

[Polygon]

Once, typically, when I first get them. As long as you don't blow on them or do anything to get them dirty, keep the contacts protected so they don't get dusty, and keep your system clean, you should be good to go for a long, long time.


When they need it, no more.


I only clean the my games when I first get them, then never again. The games that I have that were bought new have never been cleaned. The same goes for my NES. Boots first time, every time.

These.

Oddly enough I just cleaned all my NES games yesterday. I had never cleaned them before, and all of them are at least 2nd hand as I didn't own an NES as a kid. I was amazed by the crap I found in there. Most of them were pretty dirty. Some had obvious signs of being blown on. Some had some pretty nasty corrosion. It's no wonder a lot of them didn't work or had trouble working. I've decided that I will clean any new cartridge game I add to my collection regardless of whether or not it's been designated as cleaned since I've cleaned a few games with polish residue on them, among other things. What's strange is there were a few that looked brand new inside. They must have hardly been played. Now, I don't want to stick dirty games or games with residue in my clean system. So before anything else, I clean them. Beyond that, as long as your systems is clean and you absolutely DO NOT blow in your carts ever, and you keep them away from dirt and liquids you shouldn't have to clean them again for another 20-30 years.

Come to think of it, I've decided I'm going to start avoiding buying games that are listed as having been cleaned as I recently got a group of games with stripped screws and polish residue all over the inside. I wish people like that would just leave well enough alone. Anyhow, here's a copy of Mega Man 2 that I couldn't get to work. It's no wonder having seen that. Now, all my NES game fire up the first time and work flawlessly. I recently did all my Genesis, SMS, and 32X games as well. Next I'm on to the SNES as soon as more polish comes in.

Here's before, and no, that's not dirt. That's corrosion.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/976480_10200663506821533_140645453_o.jpg

And after.

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/964762_10200663507101540_96010963_o.jpg

[thegamezmaster]

When I by something used or if they've been sitting for a while without playing them. Just sitting the contacts seem to get dirty. Better safe than sorry.

[Zing]

I only clean them when they are first acquired. I haven't bothered to check if any are dirty since.

[TheRetroVideoGameAddict]

I usually clean my NES games when I first get them due to the games usually needing a really good cleaning if they come from eBay or from a small mom & pop shop, but usually if I get them from an actual game retailer they're already cleaned. But to be honest, I do a full collection cleaning of all my cartridge based games once every 6-8 months to ensure they play perfectly, it's something I've been doing for years.

[Immutable]

I recently used a white hi-polymer eraser to clean my NES pin connectors. It's a good way to avoid the moisture created by liquid cleaners.

[Tanooki]

When I get them and if it has been a long stretch and I'm selling something I use a security bit and open it up. I use isopropyl alcohol 91% and a paper towel ripped in bits and folded into a NES cleaning kit type shaped pad and I clean until it doesn't discolor the white paper towel, that's it. Then I wipe it off with a dry piece after for the 9% that wasn't alcohol in case it leaves a little film. For stuff that refuses to come off, careful use of both a wet and dry magic eraser with the same alcohol solution. It has never failed.

[Aussie2B]

I've decided that I will clean any new cartridge game I add to my collection regardless of whether or not it's been designated as cleaned since I've cleaned a few games with polish residue on them, among other things.[/IMG]

I do the same. I trust no one, haha. For my own auctions, I do advertise that I clean the games/systems, but I also further explain that I'm a game collector and know what I'm doing. :P

[treismac]

For my own auctions, I do advertise that I clean the games/systems, but I also further explain that I'm a game collector and know what I'm doing. :P

But are they professionally cleaned, Aussie2B? :wink 2:

[Polygon]

I do the same. I trust no one, haha. For my own auctions, I do advertise that I clean the games/systems, but I also further explain that I'm a game collector and know what I'm doing. :P

I pulled apart one today covered in white paste. I can only assume the butt nut used polish without opening the game. It was all over up on the PCB too! I'm actually thinking that once I make some videos of how I clean games, I'll link to them in the sale/auction so they can see for themselves that it's being done right.


But are they professionally cleaned, Aussie2B? :wink 2:

:above me:

[Aussie2B]

Maybe I should open up the Videogame Cleaning Authority to offer my professional cleaning services starting at $30 to pour rubbing alcohol over the contacts, $40 if you want me to use a q-tip, and $50 if you want me to use an additional dry q-tip when done. Of course, I'll have to go into hiding and never allow anyone to know who I am or what my qualifications are, but that's the price you have to pay to be an authority.

[Polygon]

Maybe I should open up the Videogame Cleaning Authority to offer my professional cleaning services starting at $30 to pour rubbing alcohol over the contacts, $40 if you want me to use a q-tip, and $50 if you want me to use an additional dry q-tip when done. Of course, I'll have to go into hiding and never allow anyone to know who I am or what my qualifications are, but that's the price you have to pay to be an authority.

Seems legit.

[Flam]

These.

all of them are at least 2nd hand as I didn't own an NES as a kid. I was amazed by the crap I found in there. Most of them were pretty dirty. Some had obvious signs of being blown on. Some had some pretty nasty corrosion. It's no wonder a lot of them didn't work or had trouble working. I've decided that I will clean any new cartridge game I add to my collection regardless of whether or not it's been designated as cleaned since I've cleaned a few games with polish residue on them, among other things.


The one local place in my town that sells games never cleans any of there stuff and you wouldn't believe how much crap you can scrub off with Brasso.

Here is my method:
1) scrub with a pink eraser to losen the dirt
2) polish with Brasso and a clean cloth
3) Wash off Brasso residue with rubbing alcohol (91%) and q tip

[jperryss]

Maybe I should open up the Videogame Cleaning Authority to offer my professional cleaning services starting at $30 to pour rubbing alcohol over the contacts, $40 if you want me to use a q-tip, and $50 if you want me to use an additional dry q-tip when done. Of course, I'll have to go into hiding and never allow anyone to know who I am or what my qualifications are, but that's the price you have to pay to be an authority.

And $60 if you want a picture of your cleaned game.

[wiggyx]

The one local place in my town that sells games never cleans any of there stuff and you wouldn't believe how much crap you can scrub off with Brasso.

Here is my method:
1) scrub with a pink eraser to losen the dirt
2) polish with Brasso and a clean cloth
3) Wash off Brasso residue with rubbing alcohol (91%) and q tip

I'd prolly avoid Brasso. I've seen and heard of too many issues with it at this point.

[Polygon]

The one local place in my town that sells games never cleans any of there stuff and you wouldn't believe how much crap you can scrub off with Brasso.

Here is my method:
1) scrub with a pink eraser to losen the dirt
2) polish with Brasso and a clean cloth
3) Wash off Brasso residue with rubbing alcohol (91%) and q tip

I refuse to use an eraser. I've had it cause problems, not to mention it makes a mess. All I use is some polish from the Nintendo Repair Shop with some Q-Tips and I clean that up with some 99% ISO when I'm done.

[Flam]

I'd prolly avoid Brasso. I've seen and heard of too many issues with it at this point.

Like what?

[Flam]

I refuse to use an eraser. I've had it cause problems, not to mention it makes a mess. All I use is some polish from the Nintendo Repair Shop with some Q-Tips and I clean that up with some 99% ISO when I'm done.

I've assumed that 'polish' they sell is repackaged Brasso.

[Polygon]

I've assumed that 'polish' they sell is repackaged Brasso.

Nope. It's a lot more liquid than Brasso.

[RP2A03]

Like what?

I don't know about Brasso specifically, but I do know that Weiman Cook Top Cleaner can remove solder mask if you are not careful.

[treismac]

I don't know about Brasso specifically, but I do know that Weiman Cook Top Cleaner can remove solder mask if you are not careful.

Hmmm... I've never read that before. I might have to intentionally try to remove the solder mask of a NES game and try to render it unplayable with Brasso to see if this is possible or not.

[plasticMan]

Come to think of it, I've decided I'm going to start avoiding buying games that are listed as having been cleaned as I recently got a group of games with stripped screws and polish residue all over the inside.

stripped screws and residue - nasty, i tell ya.!

i try my best to avoid ads that read recently cleaned by professionals.

sadly enough most of those screws are stripped by bad screwdrivers. i've found a trick question to ask the seller, before i buy these days.
if they answer that question wrong then i don't buy.
seriously i can't stand buying from someone who can't invest in the necessary tools to open the cartridge.
come on the screwdrivers are only like their bread and butter, and to top it off the screwdriver doesn't even cost that much.
seriously, stripped screws - please please leave well enough alone!

[Polygon]

stripped screws and residue - nasty, i tell ya.!

i try my best to avoid ads that read recently cleaned by professionals.

sadly enough most of those screws are stripped by bad screwdrivers. i've found a trick question to ask the seller, before i buy these days.
if they answer that question wrong then i don't buy.
seriously i can't stand buying from someone who can't invest in the necessary tools to open the cartridge.
come on the screwdrivers are only like their bread and butter, and to top it off the screwdriver doesn't even cost that much.
seriously, stripped screws - please please leave well enough alone!

Yeah, it's pretty frustrating. However, I've never head screws with stripped heads. They had the right bits to open them, they just over tightened the screws and stripped them out so they won't tighten anymore.

[needler420]

In my video game collector magazine it says the best way to clean cartridge contacts is with 2:1 ratio of water and isopropyl. The 91% undiluted is probably too corrosive for the contacts.

My guess is the 71% isopropyl is better for the contacts and the 91% is better for dirt , grime, residue and marker writing.

Another substitute for goo gone is ronsonol lighter fluid. Though that stuff will eat labels.

I would never take and eraser or polish to my games. I have seen mention of the eraser trick in credible resources. I have never heard of anyone using polish. I want my games to be clean not greasy and shiny.



As far as how often I clean them is once when I first get the game regardless of how it looks I clean it so it doesn't dirty the contacts in my system. After that I won't clean them again unless I have a problem with them.

I think once ever I went through all my games and cleaned them when they didn't need it. Only the contacts. I never needed to have to open my games to clean them. If the game was that dirty that it needed to be opened I probably wouldn't buy it unless it's uber rare or expensive.

[Polygon]

In my video game collector magazine it says the best way to clean cartridge contacts is with 2:1 ratio of water and isopropyl. The 91% undiluted is probably to corrosive for the contacts.

My guess is the 71% isopropyl is better for the contacts and the 91% is better for dirt , grime, residue and marker writing.

Rubbing alcohol is non-corrosive at any percentage. It is also not anywhere near strong enough to damage metal in any form.


I would never take and eraser or polish to my games. I have seen mention of the eraser trick in credible resources. I have never heard of anyone using polish. I want my games to be clean not greasy and shiny.

Polish is not just for making stuff shiny, it also makes a great cleaner. Polish is NOT greasy or oily but you need to follow up the polish with some ISO to clean up any remnants of the polish. I've had games that wouldn't work, no matter how many times I cleaned them with ISO. I had to use polish and now they work the first time, every time.

[needler420]

Rubbing alcohol is non-corrosive at any percentage. It is also not anywhere near strong enough to damage metal in any form.



Polish is not just for making stuff shiny, it also makes a great cleaner. Polish is NOT greasy or oily but you need to follow up the polish with some ISO to clean up any remnants of the polish. I've had games that wouldn't work, no matter how many times I cleaned them with ISO. I had to use polish and now they work the first time, every time.

Heat up some aluminum and put some isopropyl and tell me it's not corrosive.

[brainerdrainer]

I clean them when I first get a new game, then after that I usually dust my games twice a month or so

[BlastProcessing402]

I've never cleaned my NES games, unless you count blowing on them (begin @_@ing). Granted, my games have all been in my possession for ~20 years, all but a few since they were brand new. If I was buying a lot of used NES games these days I'm sure I would have to clean some of them, but as it stands mine are all in really good shape (yes, even with blowing on them).

[RP2A03]

Heat up some aluminum and put some isopropyl and tell me it's not corrosive.

Nobody heats up their games when they clean them and NES contacts don't contain aluminum. Higher purity alcohol is safer to use because it contains less water and evaporates faster.

[Polygon]

Nobody heats up their games when they clean them and NES contacts don't contain aluminum. Higher purity alcohol is safer to use because it contains less water and evaporates faster.

Exactly.

Way to bring up a wild situation to try and prove a point.

[Aussie2B]

Diluted or not, I doubt it makes a difference when most of us are only cleaning our games once when we first get them. Just run a dry q-tip over the contacts when you're done and no worries.

[Polygon]

So, I didn't want to start a new thread. I was cleaning my Genesis games and came across some with a funky screw type. They were all EA game, you know, the longer carts. Anyone have any idea what security bit I would need to open these up?

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/Video%20Games/Digital%20Press/Examples/Screw.jpg

[MetalFRO]

The one local place in my town that sells games never cleans any of there stuff and you wouldn't believe how much crap you can scrub off with Brasso.

Here is my method:
1) scrub with a pink eraser to losen the dirt
2) polish with Brasso and a clean cloth
3) Wash off Brasso residue with rubbing alcohol (91%) and q tip

Interesting approach. I use Brasso and these nice, thick Viva paper towels for wiping the contacts off, and I go over them pretty thoroughly after wiping off the Brasso so there's no residue. Alcohol is so corrosive, I wonder if that's causing any undue damage to the contacts or not, or if just some Windex or mild all-purpose cleaner would be better for getting that residue off. Generally speaking, once the corrosion is gone on new games I buy & clean, they boot w/o issue.

[SuperSonic]

Does anyone know if Mother chrome polish will work? I know its for chrome but it is a polish for metal.

[wiggyx]

Heat up some aluminum and put some isopropyl and tell me it's not corrosive.

Wrong, as always.

Isopropyl is not inerenty corrosive. What you are referring to is a specific type of chemical reaction between the two.

Isopropyl does not interact with brass or copper in this way.


So, I didn't want to start a new thread. I was cleaning my Genesis games and came across some with a funky screw type. They were all EA game, you know, the longer carts. Anyone have any idea what security bit I would need to open these up?

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/Video%20Games/Digital%20Press/Examples/Screw.jpg

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Search "Tri-Groove Tamper-Resistant Bits"


Interesting approach. I use Brasso and these nice, thick Viva paper towels for wiping the contacts off, and I go over them pretty thoroughly after wiping off the Brasso so there's no residue. Alcohol is so corrosive, I wonder if that's causing any undue damage to the contacts or not, or if just some Windex or mild all-purpose cleaner would be better for getting that residue off. Generally speaking, once the corrosion is gone on new games I buy & clean, they boot w/o issue.

Brasso has been under scrutiny lately as a contact cleaner as it seems to strip away the the upper layers of the contact. I personally think it should be avoided.


Does anyone know if Mother chrome polish will work? I know its for chrome but it is a polish for metal.

I wouldn't bother with polishes.

I've been using Tarn-X lately and it's pretty amazing at doing the job without the need for anything abrasive.

[RP2A03]

Interesting approach. I use Brasso and these nice, thick Viva paper towels for wiping the contacts off, and I go over them pretty thoroughly after wiping off the Brasso so there's no residue. Alcohol is so corrosive, I wonder if that's causing any undue damage to the contacts or not, or if just some Windex or mild all-purpose cleaner would be better for getting that residue off. Generally speaking, once the corrosion is gone on new games I buy & clean, they boot w/o issue.


Alcohol is perfectly safe for the contacts and the PCB. Brasso, on the other hand, will strip away the gold plating on the contacts exposing the nickle plating underneath.



Does anyone know if Mother chrome polish will work? I know its for chrome but it is a polish for metal.

I suspect that it will remove the gold plating like most other polishes. I wouldn't use any polish that does not specifically state that is safe for gold plating.

[Aussie2B]

If isopropyl alcohol is so corrosive, then why on earth did Nintendo and other companies sell it as the "cleaning solution" in their official cleaning kits back in the day?

If it's not clear, that's a rhetorical question.

[wiggyx]

To clarify, there is NO gold in game cart contacts. Sure, there is in the contacts of many computer components, but not game carts.

There are two reasons why. 1) the price is prohibitive, and 2) gold is far too soft a metal to withstand the abuse that is the repeated insertion and removal of game cartridges.

Not to mention that, If the contacts in game carts were gold, then we wouldn't need to remove corrosion as gold does NOT oxidize.

[Flam]

Alcohol is perfectly safe for the contacts and the PCB. Brasso, on the other hand, will strip away the gold plating on the contacts exposing the nickle plating underneath.

I cleaned a game that from the naked eye looked clean, I then wiped some Brasso over it and some "grime" came off. I'm now convinced that this must have been some of the gold plating that rubbed off. I'm just going to stick with the eraser and alcohol now.

[RP2A03]

I cleaned a game that from the naked eye looked clean, I then wiped some Brasso over it and some "grime" came off. I'm now convinced that this must have been some of the gold plating that rubbed off. I'm just going to stick with the eraser and alcohol now.

Metal polish is supposed to turn black. If I am not mistaken it is caused by a chemical reaction between the metal and the polish, although I am uncertain of the details of this reaction and can not say for sure if this causes metal to be transferred to the rag or something.





To clarify, there is NO gold in game cart contacts. Sure, there is in the contacts of many computer components, but not game carts.

There are two reasons why. 1) the price is prohibitive, and 2) gold is far too soft a metal to withstand the abuse that is the repeated insertion and removal of game cartridges.

Not to mention that, If the contacts in game carts were gold, then we wouldn't need to remove corrosion as gold does NOT oxidize.


I suppose it could be brass but I seem to hear everywhere that it is gold, although that really doesn't mean anything. Also, just because we have to remove corrosion it doesn't mean that the contacts are not gold plated. It could mean that the gold plating has been damaged. If I have time on Friday, I think I'll have to perform some science to determine whether or not the contacts are gold plated.

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

Isopropyl alcohol is the gold standard, it shouldn't have any adverse effect on the contacts, but it's also not entirely effective in removing crap that's aggressively bonded with/grown on the contacts.

Brasso is a solvent with a VERY VERY fine abrasive. I'd say it's okay for rescuing a cartridge that has large amounts of dirt/corrosion but it should be used very lightly and infrequently.

I swear by Sheila Shine, it's similar to Brasso in that it's a mild solvent polish but it has NO ABRASIVE in it and I've never ever seen it take any metal element off of any contacts.

I use Sheila Shine on any used cart that enters my collection and needs a decent cleaning. The results are gorgeous, brilliant looking contacts.

http://metaloffcuts.co.uk/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/j/s/js_sheilashine.jpg

[needler420]

To clarify, there is NO gold in game cart contacts. Sure, there is in the contacts of many computer components, but not game carts.

There are two reasons why. 1) the price is prohibitive, and 2) gold is far too soft a metal to withstand the abuse that is the repeated insertion and removal of game cartridges.

Not to mention that, If the contacts in game carts were gold, then we wouldn't need to remove corrosion as gold does NOT oxidize.

I'm like 90% sure that those gold contacts are gold plated.


Ok I checked with my buddies on my precious metals forums and I was right they are gold plated. I know this because people actually recycle the game carts to extract the gold using the aqua regia process. These are the same people that recycle gold from other electronics mainly older computers and cell phones.


I've read a few threads pertaining to gold fingers on game cartridges, and the outcome of the conversations were pretty negative. Recently I bought 7 games at a yard sale for $7. I cracked the games open, cut the fingers, and ran them through an AP solution. Now these foils are huge! They are from NES games, so I can't vouch for the size of the different game systems. They contain 4-5 times the amount of surface area that RAM contains. The end result of my dried finger foils weighed in at .2 grams. This means that each foil contains 0.028 grams of gold

[Polygon]

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Search "Tri-Groove Tamper-Resistant Bits"

Thanks a ton!


If isopropyl alcohol is so corrosive, then why on earth did Nintendo and other companies sell it as the "cleaning solution" in their official cleaning kits back in the day?

If it's not clear, that's a rhetorical question.

I've never seen a cleaning kit that didn't use ISO. An interesting tidbit; the reason it said not to use rubbing alcohol on NES games was because they were worried about kids handling it.

[wiggyx]

I'm like 90% sure that those gold contacts are gold plated.


Ok I checked with my buddies on my precious metals forums and I was right they are gold plated. I know this because people actually recycle the game carts to extract the gold using the aqua regia process. These are the same people that recycle gold from other electronics mainly older computers and cell phones.


I've read a few threads pertaining to gold fingers on game cartridges, and the outcome of the conversations were pretty negative. Recently I bought 7 games at a yard sale for $7. I cracked the games open, cut the fingers, and ran them through an AP solution. Now these foils are huge! They are from NES games, so I can't vouch for the size of the different game systems. They contain 4-5 times the amount of surface area that RAM contains. The end result of my dried finger foils weighed in at .2 grams. This means that each foil contains 0.028 grams of gold

What you meant the say is that you did a google search and stumbled across this:

http://goldrefiningforum.com/~goldrefi/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=68&t=9837


Based on what I'm reading on the web, it would seem that (as far as NES games go) only "older" titles have gold plated contacts, which could be entirely wrong, as nothing I've read provides a credible source of any sort of proof. I'm not seeing much about SNES or Genesis games. I haven't bothered to look for anything pre-NES or portable consoles. Curious. I'm going to have to do some more research and possibly testing...

[granz]

I clean them just once upon buying them and taking them home. After that, I keep them stored in loose plastic sleeves + hard plastic ex-rental cases. Suffice it to say, they never gather dust.

It can be a little difficult to get your hands on a set of ex-rental cases, (at least, still in good condition) but I've come across some good deals for entire lots of them on eBay.

[Polygon]

I would surmise that the plating on the contacts is more likely zinc.

[wiggyx]

I know it's not zinc just because I've treated games with Tarn-X which will strip zinc in mere seconds.



I clean them just once upon buying them and taking them home. After that, I keep them stored in loose plastic sleeves + hard plastic ex-rental cases. Suffice it to say, they never gather dust.

It can be a little difficult to get your hands on a set of ex-rental cases, (at least, still in good condition) but I've come across some good deals for entire lots of them on eBay.

"Universal Game Cases" are what a lot of us use to case games. They're essentially rental cases, but can be purchased new still ;)

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

I Recently I bought 7 games at a yard sale for $7. I cracked the games open, cut the fingers, and ran them through an AP solution. Now these foils are huge! They are from NES games, so I can't vouch for the size of the different game systems. They contain 4-5 times the amount of surface area that RAM contains. The end result of my dried finger foils weighed in at .2 grams. This means that each foil contains 0.028 grams of gold

You did no such thing.

You copied and pasted that post from this thread in this forum.

http://goldrefiningforum.com/~goldrefi/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=68&t=9837

[Polygon]

I know it's not zinc just because I've treated games with Tarn-X which will strip zinc in mere seconds.

Oh crap! Good point.

[needler420]

You did no such thing.

You copied and pasted that post from this thread in this forum.

http://goldrefiningforum.com/~goldrefi/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=68&t=9837

I know that post is copied and pasted.


I never said that specific post was a response from me asking. I asked my buddies through PM's. The post was meant to prove that the games are gold plated is all..

I'm still a member of about every other precious metal forum there is.


I knew to google it because I as I said I am on multiple precious metal and metal detecting forums so I knew they recycled video games items for gold.

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

I know that post is copied and pasted.


I never said that specific post was a response from me asking. I asked my buddies through PM's. The post was meant to prove that the games are gold plated is all..

I'm still a member of about every other precious metal forum there is.


I knew to google it because I as I said I am on multiple precious metal and metal detecting forums so I knew they recycled video games items for gold.

Yeah, whatever you say.

Learn some forum etiquette.

If you're going to cite a comment found on another forum use quotations and link back to the page.

A blind copy/paste with absolutely no reference makes it appear as if the comments are written by you about your experience.

[needler420]

Yeah, whatever you say.

Learn some forum etiquette.

If you're going to cite a comment found on another forum use quotations and link back to the page.

A blind copy/paste with absolutely no reference makes it appear as if the comments are written by you about your experience.





It takes less then a minute for anyone to research it themselves, That's how I found it.
I was about to provide a link but just decided to pass for some reason this time. Normally I do provide a link for credibility.

[Flam]

So not only does Needler420 smoke pot, now he’s a plagiarizer :-). Yet he will not tolerate copy right infringement!

[Parodius Duh!]

I clean them once when I buy them with a dry Q-tip. I would never use any of these cleaners and other junk, then again Ive never encountered nor would I purchase a game that has rusty contacts.

[needler420]

So not only does Needler420 smoke pot, now he’s a plagiarizer :-). Yet he will not tolerate copy right infringement!



That's not plagiarism. I never tried to deceive others to thinking it was my work or pass it off as my work.

That is called someone cut , copy and paste a post from a site and forgot to add a link to show the source of where it came from.

Way to show your ignorance.

[Flam]

That's not plagiarism. I never tried to deceive others to thinking it was my work or pass it off as my work.

That is called someone cut , copy and paste a post from a site and forgot to add a link to show the source of where it came from.

Way to show your ignorance.

I realize it’s not actually plagiarism, I was just piling on.

[wiggyx]

The amount of back-pedaling that Needler does is astounding.

The only reason I googled that paragraph and stumbled onto that forum was because that particular body of text was far too well versed to have been written by needler. Total red flag.

A little less smokey-smokey and maybe you would have "remembered" to post the link back to your source.

[needler420]

The amount of back-pedaling that Needler does is astounding.

The only reason I googled that paragraph and stumbled onto that forum was because that particular body of text was far too well versed to have been written by needler. Total red flag.

A little less smokey-smokey and maybe you would have "remembered" to post the link back to your source.



You were the ignorant one who said game carts don't have gold in them.

Maybe do your own research before making such strong accusations.



To clarify, there is NO gold in game cart contacts. Sure, there is in the contacts of many computer components, but not game carts.

There are two reasons why. 1) the price is prohibitive, and 2) gold is far too soft a metal to withstand the abuse that is the repeated insertion and removal of game cartridges.

Not to mention that, If the contacts in game carts were gold, then we wouldn't need to remove corrosion as gold does NOT oxidize.

[wiggyx]

You were the ignorant one who said game carts don't have gold in them.

Maybe do your own research before making such strong accusations.

First, I made an assertion, not an accusation. There's a very big difference.

Yeah, I may have been totally wrong. The difference is that I'll readily admit when I am instead of making excuses and back-pedaling.

[Aussie2B]

Christ, must every topic be ruined by the needler/wiggy back-and-forth? Where the hell are the mods/admins when we need them?

[RP2A03]

So, I just got done with my little experiment. I submerged the contacts of Lee Trevino's Fighting Golf (NES) and Wing Commander (SNES) in hydrochloric acid and hydrogen peroxide. The top plating was removed exposing the nickle plating and in many areas the nickle was also removed exposing the underlying copper. No gold foil was found. Conclusion: the top plating is not gold, at least not in all games.

[wiggyx]

That does go along with what I've read (not all NES games have gold plating on the contacts). I would guess the earlier the game, the greater likelihood of finding gold (if gold is to be found).

[Melf]

That's not plagiarism. I never tried to deceive others to thinking it was my work or pass it off as my work.

That is called someone cut , copy and paste a post from a site and forgot to add a link to show the source of where it came from.

Way to show your ignorance.

Forgetting to cite your source, while unintential, is still plagiarism. ;)