What % of rubbing alcohol is best for electronics and cleaning games?

[needler420]

I always hear both sides and neither one having much credibility.

I always hear for electronic equipment a higher % is better so that there is less water content means less chance of rusting.

However if you read the back of certain games such as the original Metroid on NES it says.

DO NOT clean with benzene thinner, alcohol or other such solvents. That message was not intended to stop kids from using chemicals. I'm 90% sure it's a warning against using corrosive and abrasive chemicals that could damage the cartridge. The following caution warnings are as followed.

* DO NOT store in extreme temperatures
* DO NOT immerse in water

I'm pretty sure these warning labels are meant for protection of the game and not a liability issue like I've heard before.


These pre-caution warning labels lead me to believe you should use less % alcohol. I know I looked up a bunch of video game cleaning guides and often I see them say to use a 2:1 water to rubbing alcohol ratio.


I almost never use it for medical purposes. I use peroxide for that. When I went to the store last I had the option of getting 70%,90% and 50%. I went with the lowest to use on my games and electronic equipment. When I buy it for cleaning purposes such as cleaning out pipes and bongs that have resin then I use a higher %.


This is one of the magazines where it says to use a lower and a 2:1 ratio. The article is called keep it clean on page 13. I believe this booklet was a freebie with issue #5 of VGC magazine.
6837

Factoring in the pre-caution warnings on the games I decided to go with the lower % and will just dry it off as I apply. I believe it to be less risky then going with too much alcohol. I would think using a high concentration like 99% over multiple uses too frequently would become abrasive to the metallic.

[Polygon]

James Rolf, the AVGN, asked someone at Nintendo about that and was told it was a liability issue as they didn't want kids using any of these and coming into any kind of harm. I don't get that since all those old video game cleaning kits used ISO. That being said, I would always use the highest percentage you can get your hands on. I use 99% always. It's going to clean better than any other percentage and if you want it's easy enough to dilute it yourself. No need to pay someone else to put water in there.

[needler420]

James Rolf, the AVGN, asked someone at Nintendo about that and was told it was a liability issue as they didn't want kids using any of these and coming into any kind of harm. I don't get that since all those old video game cleaning kits used ISO. That being said, I would always use the highest percentage you can get your hands on. I use 99% always. It's going to clean better than any other percentage and if you want it's easy enough to dilute it yourself. No need to pay someone else to put water in there.

Unless you're cleaning like resin in a bong or something really nasty and dirty it's not going to make a difference cleaning wise on electronics. The only difference is how abrasive and corrosive the concentration is going to be.

I'd imagine if you soak certain metals in rubbing alcohol long enough it will scrap away a metallic layer like soda stripping paint.


I have done tests with my bong using the different alcohol percent and of course found the highest best for cleaning. But that is a glass pyrex bong. Not fragile computer chips that contain different types of metal along with other non metal material which IS corrosive with rubbing alcohol.

The only thing you have to worry about it being diluted is the water content rusting parts. Which is avoidable if you do it right.

Isopropyl alcohol is not corrosive under most conditions, however, it will react with aluminum at high temperatures, and will attack certain types of plastic, rubber, and coatings.

[wiggyx]

abrasive and corrosive

Luckily it's neither.


I'd imagine if you soak certain metals in rubbing alcohol long enough it will scrap away a metallic layer like soda stripping paint.

Nope. No reaction to be had between isopropyl and any of the metals in cartridge contacts.


OP, 99% if you can find it, otherwise 91% will do just fine. The concerns of "rust" or corrosion are nearly moot as you're obviously going to dry the contacts off before use/storage.

[needler420]

Luckily it's neither.



Nope. No reaction to be had between isopropyl and any of the metals in cartridge contacts.


OP, 99% if you can find it, otherwise 91% will do just fine. The concerns of "rust" or corrosion are nearly moot as you're obviously going to dry the contacts off before use/storage.

It's not only the metal contacts I worry about. Rubbing alcohol is corrosive to other materials. Certain types of plastics and rubbers will get eaten up by the stuff. I'm not positive about this but I don't think the computer chips in games are pure 100% metal. I think certain resistors and capacitors are insulated in plastic or rubber type of materials. Along with other parts on the board as well.

My fear is using a solvent too concentrated for prolonged use, too frequently, can lead to corrosion of certain materials. That message on the back of games about using solvents didn't come from nothing. I am aware that all the Nintendo kits use a form of isopropyl alcohol but it's in diluted forms not near 100% concentrated.


That is why I think lower % rubbing alcohol is better. It's not like it's going to under clean. It's just going to be less corrosive against anything it had a chance of being corrosive with.

[Aussie2B]

I don't understand the point of this topic considering it's just a repeat of what was being discussed in this topic:

http://www.digitpress.com/forum/showthread.php?168161-how-often-do-you-clean-your-NES-games

I highly doubt the percentage matters, especially if you're cleaning your games infrequently and not soaking your games in the stuff. It really doesn't matter if the higher percentage stuff dries faster when it dries fast either way, and you can just as well run a dry q-tip over the contacts to hurry along the process. I've bought both 70% and 90%, and sometimes I've diluted them by half and sometimes I haven't. I have never noticed a difference in cleaning effectiveness, a significant difference in drying time, or any problems resulting.

I'd say the most important thing is don't buy isopropyl with any weird additives beyond water.

[wiggyx]

It's not only the metal contacts I worry about. Rubbing alcohol is corrosive to other materials. Certain types of plastics and rubbers will get eaten up by the stuff. I'm not positive about this but I don't think the computer chips in games are pure 100% metal. I think certain resistors and capacitors are insulated in plastic or rubber type of materials. Along with other parts on the board as well.

My fear is using a solvent too concentrated for prolonged use, too frequently, can lead to corrosion of certain materials. That message on the back of games about using solvents didn't come from nothing. I am aware that all the Nintendo kits use a form of isopropyl alcohol but it's in diluted forms not near 100% concentrated.


That is why I think lower % rubbing alcohol is better. It's not like it's going to under clean. It's just going to be less corrosive against anything it had a chance of being corrosive with.

Well, PCBs are made of silicon, so no worries there. Otherwise just don't clean the caps and whatnot with isopropyl. There's no reason to anyway.

If it's got potential to corrode at all, then I would avoid it at any concentration. But in this instance, it really doesn't.

[Polygon]

Well, PCBs are made of silicon, so no worries there. Otherwise just don't clean the caps and whatnot with isopropyl. There's no reason to anyway.

If it's got potential to corrode at all, then I would avoid it at any concentration. But in this instance, it really doesn't.

I have to reiterate this. There is no potential to damage anything on a cartridge based game with ISO near the contact pins. As for dilution, if you buy a lower percentage than 99% it IS being diluted with water. So, once again, buy 99% and dilute it yourself. I've been using 99% for years on cart based games with no ill effects and I wouldn't expect there to be any. You're certainly overthinking this.

[Satoshi_Matrix]

The correct answer is 99% Isopropanol, not rubbing alcohol.

[Gameguy]

The correct answer is 99% Isopropanol, not rubbing alcohol.
Isopropyl alcohol is called rubbing alcohol in certain areas, I have a bottle marked this way and see it sold like this in stores.

It's used to clean CD laser lenses and cassette player heads, it's safe for connectors on electronics. It doesn't really matter what percentage you use for games, even plain water could be used for cleaning connectors if dried thoroughly after cleaning. The real problem is with dirt left on the connector, if there's dust or dirt then it absorbs moisture and keeps it against the connectors or board which can eventually cause damage. I've seen games with damage around the traces right where the plasic ridge in the case supports the bottom edge of the board, that's where dirt tends to build up. The damage was usually minor but it's just where that plastic ridge is, not beyond it.

[thegamezmaster]

I myself use electronic contact cleaner that cleans the contacts and some condition the contact to prevent getting dirty or whatever as fast.

[bb_hood]

The correct answer is 99% Isopropanol, not rubbing alcohol.

Same thing as Isopropyl alcohol, different common names. One reason its so good to use is that it evaporates so quickly and 99.9% of Iso evaporates completely, leaving no residue. You would want the higher concentration because it lacks water, which isnt horrible but could leave said residue.

[wiggyx]

We should really avoid using the term "rubbing alcohol" as it can refer to either ethanol or isopropyl.

Ethanol shouldn't go near any of our games, while isopropyl is pretty damned harmless.

[recorderdude]

I've been able to bring games back from the grave with various concentrations of alcohol myself, but due to what we actually have I mostly use 70% and it does the job. Regardless, the others here are correct in stating that pure rubbing alc is going to be the best for games since it's more customizable, but pretty much any concentration CAN do the job if you do it well enough and properly dry it too.

[needler420]

Having just cleaned my games I think I'm going to stick with what I read in the video game collector magazine about using a 2:1 ratio.

This happened to my coffee table in a matter of minutes. Mind you this damage happened in a matter of minutes using 50% concentrated
6843


Now I know rubbing alcohol is extremely corrosive against wood and paper products but it is also corrosive against plastics and rubbers. And the game boards are not 100% metal. I am a bit pissed now that I ruined my coffee table. It's not the first thing I have ruined with rubbing alcohol.

I am almost certain you can damage your games now using too strong of a solvent. Those pre-caution labels on NES games saying not to use alcohol wasn't pulled out of someone's ass. Those Nintendo kits that contain rubbing alcohol aren't near 100% concentrations.


I'm guessing that pre-caution label on the back of old NES games is not a joke when they say don't use solvents. If I do I will dilute it for now on.


I am actually going to put it to the test and purposely let different dosage concentrations get corrosive with whatever it can on the game board.

I want to test which will ruin it faster. I will use a cheap dunk hunt or something.

[Polygon]

Having just cleaned my games I think I'm going to stick with what I read in the video game collector magazine about using a 2:1 ratio.

This happened to my coffee table in a matter of minutes. Mind you this damage happened in a matter of minutes using 50% concentrated
6843


Now I know rubbing alcohol is extremely corrosive against wood and paper products but it is also corrosive against plastics and rubbers. And the game boards are not 100% metal. I am a bit pissed now that I ruined my coffee table. It's not the first thing I have ruined with rubbing alcohol.

I am almost certain you can damage your games now using too strong of a solvent. Those pre-caution labels on NES games saying not to use alcohol wasn't pulled out of someone's ass. Those Nintendo kits that contain rubbing alcohol aren't near 100% concentrations.


I'm guessing that pre-caution label on the back of old NES games is not a joke when they say don't use solvents. If I do I will dilute it for now on.


I am actually going to put it to the test and purposely let different dosage concentrations get corrosive with whatever it can on the game board.

I want to test which will ruin it faster. I will use a cheap dunk hunt or something.

For starters, wood and plastic don't corrode. You're confusing what is really happening here. Next, I have proof to the contrary. I've been using 99% ISO on all my cartridge based games for years with no damage. The only thing I could think you could potentially damage on the cart would be a cap or a resistor, and that's pretty slim to be honest. I've used 99% ISO on the plastic case as well with no damage.

But it's up to you.

[needler420]

For starters, wood and plastic don't corrode. You're confusing what is really happening here. Next, I have proof to the contrary. I've been using 99% ISO on all my cartridge based games for years with no damage. The only thing I could think you could potentially damage on the cart would be a cap or a resistor, and that's pretty slim to be honest. I've used 99% ISO on the plastic case as well with no damage.

But it's up to you.

It's not going to damage if you let it dry obviously. The theory is for someone who uses it frequently and uses a lot leaving it on for a prolonged time. This is not about that 90% won't work either. It's what works better and more efficient and why.

I have used 90% on the plastic to and ruined a few labels doing it.

Ever since I just use a toothbrush and soap and water. A high concentration of isopropyl will instantly eat the labels if you get the slightest drop on it.

If using it on the plastic I would recommend using a ratio of like 3:1 water to isopropyl. As careful as I am, I have ruined and faded labels with isopropyl.

[Polygon]

Interesting.

Just used 99% ISO to remove crap from labels recently with no damage to the label. Are you sure you're not using acetone or something? Because ISO is actually pretty benign and will not just eat labels, plastic, or wood like that.

[needler420]

Interesting.

Just used 99% ISO to remove crap from labels recently with no damage to the label. Are you sure you're not using acetone or something? Because ISO is actually pretty benign and will not just eat labels, plastic, or wood like that.

This is a pic I just took of a old project I did months ago. I realized the pattern of what it was. Look what I put next to it for reference.
6846
I am 100% sure if you put 99% ISO on a video game paper label you will eat through the color of the label instantly. Even if you wipe it on then right off, do it with a clean napkin. Notice how the napkin won't be white. That is the color of your game label coming off.

[A.C. Sativa]

I have done tests with my bong using the different alcohol percent and of course found the highest best for cleaning. But that is a glass pyrex bong. Not fragile computer chips that contain different types of metal along with other non metal material which IS corrosive with rubbing alcohol.

I just don't understand why people spend $10-12 on that Formula 420 stuff when rubbing alcohol works better and costs... what, $2? Really, if you don't let it get too gunked up then hot water should be enough.

[needler420]

I just don't understand why people spend $10-12 on that Formula 420 stuff when rubbing alcohol works better and costs... what, $2? Really, if you don't let it get too gunked up then hot water should be enough.

That is what I do now I don't buy that expensive 420 solution. I use 99% ISO for that and 50% on electronic equipment.

99% is better for cleaning heavy crude and lots of dirt, resin etc.

[RP2A03]

Most plastics are not affected by IPA and games do not contain rubber parts. Glossy labels can briefly withstand liquids if it does not get under the label. Alcohol is safer than soapy water because it evaporates faster and leaves behind no residue. I have used IPA to clean really dirty labels and, yes, it can remove some of the color, but so will water. If you do not over clean and you avoid getting it under the label, the damage is only perceptible under magnification.

[wiggyx]

Having just cleaned my games I think I'm going to stick with what I read in the video game collector magazine about using a 2:1 ratio.

This happened to my coffee table in a matter of minutes. Mind you this damage happened in a matter of minutes using 50% concentrated
6843


Now I know rubbing alcohol is extremely corrosive against wood and paper products but it is also corrosive against plastics and rubbers. And the game boards are not 100% metal. I am a bit pissed now that I ruined my coffee table. It's not the first thing I have ruined with rubbing alcohol.

I am almost certain you can damage your games now using too strong of a solvent. Those pre-caution labels on NES games saying not to use alcohol wasn't pulled out of someone's ass. Those Nintendo kits that contain rubbing alcohol aren't near 100% concentrations.


I'm guessing that pre-caution label on the back of old NES games is not a joke when they say don't use solvents. If I do I will dilute it for now on.


I am actually going to put it to the test and purposely let different dosage concentrations get corrosive with whatever it can on the game board.

I want to test which will ruin it faster. I will use a cheap dunk hunt or something.

Correct. The board is made of silicon, as I already stated. Isopropyl will not damage silicon, as I already stated.

Just because it ruined the finish on your coffee table, doesn't mean it will destroy everything it touches. Water will ruin the finish on the table if you leave it long enough.

[Jorpho]

I was once in communication with a guy who wigged out because I had the nerve to try to clean shrink wrap with isopropyl alcohol, and who insisted that nothing less than lighter fluid would do.

[Polygon]

This is a pic I just took of a old project I did months ago. I realized the pattern of what it was. Look what I put next to it for reference.
6846
I am 100% sure if you put 99% ISO on a video game paper label you will eat through the color of the label instantly. Even if you wipe it on then right off, do it with a clean napkin. Notice how the napkin won't be white. That is the color of your game label coming off.

Like I said, I don't know what's in your mixture, but in my straight 99% ISO is used it to clean sticker residue off a couple of labels recently. Not only did it sit on the label, I used a Q-Tip and a paper towel to clean off the residue from the sticker. Not only that, I had to do it twice. There was absolutely ZERO damage to the label. To pile it on, I've done this MANY times in the past with the same result. I believe you're either adding something to your mixture or you're not using ISO that would cause that to happen because ISO will not cause that to happen. Unless they're selling me different ISO from the rest of the world, and have been since I was a teenager, since that's how long I've been using it to clean games back in the 90s.

[needler420]

I was once in communication with a guy who wigged out because I had the nerve to try to clean shrink wrap with isopropyl alcohol, and who insisted that nothing less than lighter fluid would do.



Polyurethane is very corrosive with isopropyl. Both will probably do the job and neither with no more noticeable difference then the other but that doesn't mean that one chemical isn't better then another. In this case some ronsonol lighter fluid would have been better.

If you want a breakdown of what chemicals are ok to go with certain materials I use.

http://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance


And to the guy saying I'm not using ISO, go take a retro cartridge game and make a youtube video of wiping some on and off with a napkin. It's going to eat through it like butter. Paper is not a friend of ISO.


As wiggy said silicone is safe against ISO. I do believe game boards contain more then just metal and silicone though. So there still is a risk. If any material in that chart gets below an A rating it means it's corrosive. I am willing to bet there are materials on those boards that are corrosive. Hence where the pre-caution about using solvents on the back of games came from.

[Polygon]

And to the guy saying I'm not using ISO, go take a retro cartridge game and make a youtube video of wiping some on and off with a napkin. It's going to eat through it like butter. Paper is not a friend of ISO.


As wiggy said silicone is safe against ISO. I do believe game boards contain more then just metal and silicone though. So there still is a risk. If any material in that chart gets below an A rating it means it's corrosive. I am willing to bet there are materials on those boards that are corrosive. Hence where the pre-caution about using solvents on the back of games came from.

I don't know what you're doing, all I'm saying is that you're doing something wrong as ISO is not that caustic. Also, as I already said, Nintendo has said that warning was there as due to liability as they didn't want children somehow lighting themselves on fire.

Also, video is on it's way.

[Polygon]

Here you go... proof!


http://youtu.be/X-WLCMKj9dE

[needler420]

Nothing is mixed in my rubbing alcohol its 50% You barely rubbed it in. I rubbed it in too long. But you get the point.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVT8m1Ng0LU

[Polygon]

I barely rubbed it in? I would say I gave it plenty of rubbings, especially since you said instantly.


I am 100% sure if you put 99% ISO on a video game paper label you will eat through the color of the label instantly. Even if you wipe it on then right off, do it with a clean napkin. Notice how the napkin won't be white. That is the color of your game label coming off.


And to the guy saying I'm not using ISO, go take a retro cartridge game and make a youtube video of wiping some on and off with a napkin. It's going to eat through it like butter. Paper is not a friend of ISO.

Seriously, you're doing something wrong. It's you, not the ISO that's the problem. I'm done with this. I've NEVER had ISO damage anything I've poured it on in over 15 years of using it. You seriously can't be reasoned with. You can't see the other side of things. You're seriously one of the most obstinate, obtuse people I've ever talked to. You ask for people's advice only to tell them they're wrong. You don't know what you're talking about. That's made clear by your usage of the word corrosion. Wood, plastic, paper, etc do NOT corrode. Corrosion is the result or organisms eating metal and corrosion is the waste they produce. I suggest you sit back and listen to people that do.

[needler420]

Most plastics are not affected by IPA and games do not contain rubber parts. Glossy labels can briefly withstand liquids if it does not get under the label. Alcohol is safer than soapy water because it evaporates faster and leaves behind no residue. I have used IPA to clean really dirty labels and, yes, it can remove some of the color, but so will water. If you do not over clean and you avoid getting it under the label, the damage is only perceptible under magnification.

I tested with modern games which is extra glossy. Older game labels aren't. I have faded a few labels with ISO.

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

Nothing is mixed in my rubbing alcohol its 50% You barely rubbed it in. I rubbed it in too long. But you get the point.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVT8m1Ng0LU

That's fucking ridiculous.

First of all, there's a difference in the printing process and material finish of a NES game cartridge label and a paper DVD case insert.

Furthermore, ANY liquid applied to a paper towel (which are abrasive) and then applied with circular motion/pressure in that fashion is going to net the same results.

[Polygon]

I didn't even bother to watch the video. I can't believe he was using the DVD insert as an example. Why are you taking ISO to the insert? Nobody told you to do that. This was about cleaning cartridge based games. And now you've twisted it around because you have it out for ISO for some reason and you're grasping at straws to prove ISO is somehow corrosive when you don't even know what that means. I did exactly what you asked me to do. I got a retro game, and rubbed 99% ISO on the label and nothing happened. I proved you wrong but you can't admit that you're are and that you don't have a damn clue what you're talking about. You then counter with a video of using it on a DVD insert. Franke said it best there.

"Furthermore, ANY liquid applied to a paper towel (which are abrasive) and then applied with circular motion/pressure in that fashion is going to net the same results."

Just let it go. You're wrong, you don't know what you're talking about. Admit it or just stop digging your hole even deeper.

[needler420]

I didn't even bother to watch the video. I can't believe he was using the DVD insert as an example. Why are you taking ISO to the insert? Nobody told you to do that. This was about cleaning cartridge based games. And now you've twisted it around because you have it out for ISO for some reason and you're grasping at straws to prove ISO is somehow corrosive when you don't even know what that means. I did exactly what you asked me to do. I got a retro game, and rubbed 99% ISO on the label and nothing happened. I proved you wrong but you can't admit that you're are and that you don't have a damn clue what you're talking about. You then counter with a video of using it on a DVD insert. Franke said it best there.

"Furthermore, ANY liquid applied to a paper towel (which are abrasive) and then applied with circular motion/pressure in that fashion is going to net the same results."

Just let it go. You're wrong, you don't know what you're talking about. Admit it or just stop digging your hole even deeper.

You did do damage though. Its only perceptible under magnification.



Most plastics are not affected by IPA and games do not contain rubber parts. Glossy labels can briefly withstand liquids if it does not get under the label. Alcohol is safer than soapy water because it evaporates faster and leaves behind no residue. I have used IPA to clean really dirty labels and, yes, it can remove some of the color, but so will water. If you do not over clean and you avoid getting it under the label, the damage is only perceptible under magnification.

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

You did do damage though. Its only perceptible under magnification.

Handling the cart label with your hands, or friction against other materials also causes damage perceptible under a microscope.

If you're looking to keep your games in a state that is un-altered UNDER MICROSCOPIC CONDITIONS ... just don't even touch them.

For that matter, the uncertainty principle states that the mere act of observing an object alters its state, so don't even look at them.

[Polygon]

You did do damage though. Its only perceptible under magnification.

:roll:

You've got to be kidding me. You're really grasping at straws here. What does that matter? It's imperceivable. Furthermore, read what Frankie had to say below in case you missed it.

Like I said, completely obtuse.


Handling the cart label with your hands, or friction against other materials also causes damage perceptible under a microscope.

If you're looking to keep your games in a state that is un-altered UNDER MICROSCOPIC CONDITIONS ... just don't even touch them.

For that matter, the uncertainty principle states that the mere act of observing an object alters its state, so don't even look at them.

[bust3dstr8]

Video footage released from needler's former employer.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5M--0CSZ1I&t=1m10s

[Aussie2B]

I've never had isopropyl alcohol damage a label, at least not a label that wasn't damaged to begin with. The glossy coating of cartridge labels protects them pretty well from liquid as long as you work quick and don't scrub like a madman. Personally, I prefer to just go over a dirty label with a soapy rag, then a slightly wet rag to clean away any soapiness, then wipe it down dry as quick as I can. I find that's even more effective than isopropyl (really, I mostly just use alcohol on contacts; soap and water is all that's needed for the rest of a cartridge or case). Whether it's plain water or isopropyl alcohol, both will damage a label equally, just as any liquid would, if there are tears or if liquid sits around the edges for long. You don't want the liquid absorbing into the papery parts. Sometimes it's a matter of give-and-take, though. I'll let a little water seep into a tear if I know my efforts are still going to make the label look better than if I leave it alone. Depending on how it goes, when it dries, the water that was absorbed might be unnoticeable anyway.

[Nesmaster]

I use 99% ISO to clean my labels too, without damage.

The trick is to be sure of what type of label you're trying to clean. N64 and Made in Mexico SNES labels will absolutely be damaged by rubbing them because they lack the glossy protective layer that NES and Made in Japan SNES labels have. For this reason I don't even bother messing with the former.

[needler420]

I use 99% ISO to clean my labels too, without damage.

The trick is to be sure of what type of label you're trying to clean. N64 and Made in Mexico SNES labels will absolutely be damaged by rubbing them because they lack the glossy protective layer that NES and Made in Japan SNES labels have. For this reason I don't even bother messing with the former.

I was just going to say if you use a N64 game if will fade the color in just a few wipes.

[Aussie2B]

I was just going to say if you use a N64 game if will fade the color in just a few wipes.

Any liquid will do that. I've done that with just soap and water trying to clean really messed up N64 labels.

[RP2A03]

You did do damage though. Its only perceptible under magnification.

I'll just leave this here:



The oils and sweat salt residue on your fingers is slowly eating into and darkening the label artwork on your cartridges every time you pull one from a case with your bare fingers. Better start wearing gloves to handle them.




.........




For that matter, the uncertainty principle states that the mere act of observing an object alters its state, so don't even look at them.

I'm pretty sure that only applies to quantum objects.

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

I'm pretty sure that only applies to quantum objects.

Okay, well then, don't look at THIS game:

https://webshop.cashconverters.com.au/thumbnail/850x520/1515937-quantum-fighter-nes-game-cartridge-0.jpg

[xelement5x]

I use 99% ISO to clean my labels too, without damage.

The trick is to be sure of what type of label you're trying to clean. N64 and Made in Mexico SNES labels will absolutely be damaged by rubbing them because they lack the glossy protective layer that NES and Made in Japan SNES labels have. For this reason I don't even bother messing with the former.

I agree here as with others, it really depends on the label type. I've had some labels that stand up fine against ISO, others like N64 that you need to be super delicate with. I do tend to prefer Ronsonol or Naptha for a lot of stuff though, as it dries very quickly.

[Cornelius]

Okay, well then, don't look at THIS game:

https://webshop.cashconverters.com.au/thumbnail/850x520/1515937-quantum-fighter-nes-game-cartridge-0.jpg

Well played.

And while I'm here, I have to recommend that people using the word corrosion go read a wiki or something on the word. Same with abrasive.

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

Well played.

And while I'm here, I have to recommend that people using the word corrosion go read a wiki or something on the word. Same with abrasive.

Paper towels are abrasive. Low grade, but abrasive to soft materials like plastics and even some un-coated glass.

[Bojay1997]

I really can't understand why anyone bothers to respond to Needler420 at all. It's pretty clear that no matter what anyone types, he is going to take the complete opposite view simply for the sake of arguing. I feel like his time here has been a very elaborate troll with his continuous rants about how collecting is stupid and anyone who doesn't play certain games in a certain way isn't "hardcore" or how repros are the worst form of illegal conduct ever created. I mean look at the whole structure of this thread. He lulls helpful forum members in ostensibly under the guise of wanting to know what percentage of rubbing alcohol he should use to clean things. Almost immediately, he starts arguing that it can't be used at all for cleaning carts. I just can't believe this guy is even permitted to still be here as he seems to revel in chaos and dischord.

[Cornelius]

Paper towels are abrasive. Low grade, but abrasive to soft materials like plastics and even some un-coated glass.

Oh, no doubt. I wasn't trying to single anyone out, but there was specious use of both terms earlier in this thread.

[Aussie2B]

I really can't understand why anyone bothers to respond to Needler420 at all. It's pretty clear that no matter what anyone types, he is going to take the complete opposite view simply for the sake of arguing. I feel like his time here has been a very elaborate troll with his continuous rants about how collecting is stupid and anyone who doesn't play certain games in a certain way isn't "hardcore" or how repros are the worst form of illegal conduct ever created. I mean look at the whole structure of this thread. He lulls helpful forum members in ostensibly under the guise of wanting to know what percentage of rubbing alcohol he should use to clean things. Almost immediately, he starts arguing that it can't be used at all for cleaning carts. I just can't believe this guy is even permitted to still be here as he seems to revel in chaos and dischord.

Yeah, I've been wondering myself why he hasn't been banned yet. He's not only disruptive, with his endless trolling spree, but he's also been caught plagiarizing, by copying posts from elsewhere on the internet and pretending that they're his own words. Is this honestly what the Retrogaming Roundtable tolerates these days? This is one of those moments where you can put your finger on the exact reason why this board/site has been going down the shitter, losing (worthwhile) activity and its long-time regulars. We're all in a freakin' bus with no driver here. I said it in another topic, but where the hell are the mods and admins when we need them? It seems like most barely visit the board anymore, so why aren't their powers passed on to people who actually want to be here and will see what's going on?

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

Oh, no doubt. I wasn't trying to single anyone out, but there was specious use of both terms earlier in this thread.

I didn't see that, I incorrectly assumed you were addressing my indication that they were in fact abrasive.

[needler420]

Yeah, I've been wondering myself why he hasn't been banned yet. He's not only disruptive, with his endless trolling spree, but he's also been caught plagiarizing, by copying posts from elsewhere on the internet and pretending that they're his own words. Is this honestly what the Retrogaming Roundtable tolerates these days? This is one of those moments where you can put your finger on the exact reason why this board/site has been going down the shitter, losing (worthwhile) activity and its long-time regulars. We're all in a freakin' bus with no driver here. I said it in another topic, but where the hell are the mods and admins when we need them? It seems like most barely visit the board anymore, so why aren't their powers passed on to people who actually want to be here and will see what's going on?

Plagiarizing is what a reproduction game is aka known as a bootleg. Not copying someone's post from a site.

[Atarileaf]

Not copying someone's post from a site.

Depends. If you quote someone and acknowledge it, that's one thing, if you pass the quote off as you're own, its plagiarism.

[gameofyou]

Both isopropyl alcohol and water are commonly used to clean circuit board assemblies. The alcohol will dry faster than water, but either one is fine if the boards are dried after cleaning.

They even specifically make water-soluble flux, so that you can clean a board using only water after assembly. I work in the industry, so I know this from experience (not just reading it somewhere).

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

Plagiarizing is what a reproduction game is aka known as a bootleg. Not copying someone's post from a site.

Whether it was intentional or not, You've exhibited a lack of understanding as to how to properly cite content found on other sites.

If you're going to copy and paste comments from another site to support your position in whatever debate you've found yourself in, firstly, indicate that clearly, cite the original author, use quotation marks around the content that you're copying/pasting and post a link back to the page where the quote originated.

There's no other way to do it without looking like you're attempting to represent the content as your own ideas/comments.

[Aussie2B]

Plagiarizing is what a reproduction game is aka known as a bootleg. Not copying someone's post from a site.

Merriam-Webster:

Definition of PLAGIARIZE
transitive verb
: to steal and pass off (the ideas or words of another) as one's own : use (another's production) without crediting the source
intransitive verb
: to commit literary theft : present as new and original an idea or product derived from an existing source

[Flam]

Handling the cart label with your hands, or friction against other materials also causes damage perceptible under a microscope.

If you're looking to keep your games in a state that is un-altered UNDER MICROSCOPIC CONDITIONS ... just don't even touch them.

For that matter, the uncertainty principle states that the mere act of observing an object alters its state, so don't even look at them.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-NgeXl-PPA

Nigel and Needler agree.

[Frankie_Says_Relax]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-NgeXl-PPA

Nigel Tufnel is truly a man after my own heart.

Mainly because someday I hope to own a haberdashery.