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View Full Version : Quick question about 72 pin connectors



Flam
07-24-2013, 05:03 PM
Why, after you replace the 72 pin, do you not have to push down on the games in order to play them. I still looks wierd to me that I can see the game lable while I'm playing

Polygon
07-24-2013, 05:20 PM
I wasn't aware of that. Do me a favor real quick and turn on the NES without a game in. Does the power light stay on, or flash?

bb_hood
07-24-2013, 05:48 PM
Why, after you replace the 72 pin, do you not have to push down on the games in order to play them. I still looks wierd to me that I can see the game lable while I'm playing

Are you sure it is installed correctly?

Zing
07-24-2013, 08:45 PM
The cheap Chinese replacement connectors are often like this. They are not "zero insertion force" as with the original connectors. They have the ninja grip of death. Pushing the cart down with this type of connector actually risks damaging it.

I always recommend just cleaning, usually by boiling, the original connector instead of replacing it with cheap crap.

sloan
07-24-2013, 09:16 PM
The cheap Chinese replacement connectors are often like this. They are not "zero insertion force" as with the original connectors. They have the ninja grip of death. Pushing the cart down with this type of connector actually risks damaging it.

I always recommend just cleaning, usually by boiling, the original connector instead of replacing it with cheap crap.

This.

I have bought replacements, but eventually found that there is not a NES out there that cannot be cured with a good old-fashioned cleaning of the original pins. Fine grit sandpaper and isopropyl with a toothbrush will fix any blinking/crashing NES.

Flam
07-24-2013, 09:21 PM
I wasn't aware of that. Do me a favor real quick and turn on the NES without a game in. Does the power light stay on, or flash?

Stay's on.

Cheap Chinese connector or not, it's lasted me well over a year. I have two back ups I bought from Nintendo Repair Shop. The ones Stone Age has sound good but they are out of stock http://www.stoneagegamer.com/nes-72-pin-connector.html

Polygon
07-24-2013, 10:01 PM
If the light stays on then that means that your lockout chip is disabled.

Jack_Burton_BYOAC
07-24-2013, 10:27 PM
I followed an old tutorial years ago and bent the pins on my connector back into place. Ever since then it has been "crunchy", but works perfectly. No resets, no blowing in the cart. And just like you, I don't have to push the carts down. In fact, it works better if I don't.

Flam
07-25-2013, 08:30 AM
If the light stays on then that means that your lockout chip is disabled.

I disabled it a few months back. But still, before then I didn't have to push the cart down.

I actually like not having to push the cart down. It's kind of neat being able to see the game title while you are playing.

SparTonberry
07-25-2013, 09:01 AM
Strange. I got one of those put it in, and it works, but the lockout only seems to only let me play the game when the cart is pushed down.

Polygon
07-25-2013, 09:53 AM
I disabled it a few months back. But still, before then I didn't have to push the cart down.

I actually like not having to push the cart down. It's kind of neat being able to see the game title while you are playing.

Interesting.

My only theory could be that the pins are applying so much pressure it doesn't need to be pushed down, because those things put a death grip on the carts.

bigbacon
07-25-2013, 10:41 AM
i'd go with, if the NES is working and you are having fun, who cares if you need to push it down or not. I mean you don't need to push down with game genie.

Flam
07-25-2013, 12:23 PM
i'd go with, if the NES is working and you are having fun, who cares if you need to push it down or not. I mean you don't need to push down with game genie.

I don't care, I was just wondering why I didn't have to push down on it.

xelement5x
07-25-2013, 01:26 PM
I don't care, I was just wondering why I didn't have to push down on it.

The original NES connector was designed to be loose when the cart was inserted, then when you pushed down the tray inside enough pressure would be applied on the connector pins to the contacts on the cart, and this would complete the circuit and play the game. Presumably this was to avoid undue wear and tear on the cart contacts from inserting removing games.

However, the flaw with this is that with enough use, eventually connector pins would get loose and even pushing down the tray was not enough to make the pins in the connectors fully connect to the cart, and then your game wouldn't play. If you've ever had to wedge something else on top of your NES cart to hold it further down in the system then you know what I'm talking about.

The new connector you put in your NES has very tight pins right off the bat, so there is no need to push down the tray to complete the connection and play the game. One might guess that because of this there might be more wear on the cartridge, but I've never had issues and currently use my NES the same way (no need to push down) after refurbing my original connector.

Flam
07-25-2013, 01:46 PM
The original NES connector was designed to be loose when the cart was inserted, then when you pushed down the tray inside enough pressure would be applied on the connector pins to the contacts on the cart, and this would complete the circuit and play the game. Presumably this was to avoid undue wear and tear on the cart contacts from inserting removing games.

However, the flaw with this is that with enough use, eventually connector pins would get loose and even pushing down the tray was not enough to make the pins in the connectors fully connect to the cart, and then your game wouldn't play. If you've ever had to wedge something else on top of your NES cart to hold it further down in the system then you know what I'm talking about.

The new connector you put in your NES has very tight pins right off the bat, so there is no need to push down the tray to complete the connection and play the game. One might guess that because of this there might be more wear on the cartridge, but I've never had issues and currently use my NES the same way (no need to push down) after refurbing my original connector.

Thanks!. I do remember back in the day having to wedge something on top of my NES to make it push down harder. I always thought it was because the springs were loose, now I know.

Gatucaman
07-25-2013, 02:03 PM
The cheap Chinese replacement connectors are often like this. They are not "zero insertion force" as with the original connectors. They have the ninja grip of death. Pushing the cart down with this type of connector actually risks damaging it.

I always recommend just cleaning, usually by boiling, the original connector instead of replacing it with cheap crap.

Boiling?, do you mean i should insert it in hot water, that will melt the plastic!

but i want to know if it can be done on an original connector once i bent the pins again.

Gameguy
07-25-2013, 03:06 PM
The cheap Chinese replacement connectors are often like this. They are not "zero insertion force" as with the original connectors. They have the ninja grip of death. Pushing the cart down with this type of connector actually risks damaging it.

I always recommend just cleaning, usually by boiling, the original connector instead of replacing it with cheap crap.
I found that some games don't need to be pushed down even with some original connectors, I think it was an earlier Super Mario/Duck Hunt cart or something similar. The boards seemed to be slightly thicker with some games, these didn't need to be pushed down.

I never bend any of the connectors, I just clean them and they're usually fine. I really like the cleaning kits I have.

As for the new connectors, the cheap ones have the death grips. I've actually seen people bring their systems with a game stuck inside it to game stores asking about repairs, they couldn't remove the game because the grip was too tight on the contacts. They're really cheap crap.

Zing
07-25-2013, 03:36 PM
Boiling?, do you mean i should insert it in hot water, that will melt the plastic!

but i want to know if it can be done on an original connector once i bent the pins again.

It does not even come close to melting anything. I have boiled several connectors repeatedly with no damage, even with the plastic directly touching the bottom of the boiling steel pot. This plastic would require several times more heat to even get soft.

Boil the connector for five minutes in distiller or filtered water. Dry immediately and let it cool. Then reconstruct your NES and enjoy the games.