Playstation 2 controller question.

[zakthedodo]

Hey all.
I bought a brand new Sony brand PS2 controller, and the circle button triggers the R1 button and the only thing that fixes it ( for a short while ), is unplugging the controller from the PS2 itself and plugging it back in.:(

I noticed striking the controller works as well, but I'd like to stop with all that.

Did I just get a bum controller or should I just open it up and try to piece it back together?
If anyone else has had this issue what would you suggest?

[Tokimemofan]

Hey all.
I bought a brand new Sony brand PS2 controller, and the circle button triggers the R1 button and the only thing that fixes it ( for a short while ), is unplugging the controller from the PS2 itself and plugging it back in.:(

I noticed striking the controller works as well, but I'd like to stop with all that.

Did I just get a bum controller or should I just open it up and try to piece it back together?
If anyone else has had this issue what would you suggest?

2 of the common revisions of the controller have a foam pad that degrades, that pad presses a ribbon cable against the board. When it degrades it will push incorrect buttons or or push buttons on it's own. This is a design problem with about 20% of Dualshocks, 50%+ of Dualshock 2s, ALL SCPH-10520 Dual Analog Controllers and ALL Dual Shock 3s, the Sixaxis, ALL Digital controllers and ALL SCPH-1150/1180 Dual Analog controllers use a different design that doesn't fail like this. The more recent the controller is, the more likely it is to fail this way. I have repaired many of these with a cut to size piece of tape to increase pressure on the cable.

[SparTonberry]

So this unopened spare DualShock 2 I picked up when Best Buy was clearing out PS2 stuff is likely to fail shortly after use? :(

[Tokimemofan]

So this unopened spare DualShock 2 I picked up when Best Buy was clearing out PS2 stuff is likely to fail shortly after use? :(

The foam degrades due to physical stress, yours is probably safe if it works now, the "new" ones have probably been sitting there for years. I have seen the failure on almost new controllers so it is not a use related failure. I also have 3 controllers with this design and none of them have failed. I however have repaired dozens of controllers and about 75% have this problem the others having board failures. The worst offenders are late issue ones with the "A" factory code, due to the pad being mounted to the back of the case rather than the internal button frame. The clip mount frame DualShock 3s are even worse.

[FFStudios]

*gulp* I have a factory code A DualShock 2 controller. Although, it has lasted me a good two years now.

[zakthedodo]

2 of the common revisions of the controller have a foam pad that degrades, that pad presses a ribbon cable against the board. When it degrades it will push incorrect buttons or or push buttons on it's own. This is a design problem with about 20% of Dualshocks, 50%+ of Dualshock 2s, ALL SCPH-10520 Dual Analog Controllers and ALL Dual Shock 3s, the Sixaxis, ALL Digital controllers and ALL SCPH-1150/1180 Dual Analog controllers use a different design that doesn't fail like this. The more recent the controller is, the more likely it is to fail this way. I have repaired many of these with a cut to size piece of tape to increase pressure on the cable.


Very cool, thanks for that info.
I hate to rip it open, as it's fresh out of the pack, but I have enough controllers now that I can play around with this one.
It just confused me that unplugging it and reinserting it into the console solved the issue.
The Model number is SCPH-10010

[InsaneDavid]

It just confused me that unplugging it and reinserting it into the console solved the issue.
The Model number is SCPH-10010

Possibly because when you get up to unplug and reconnect the controller, the controller cord bends around and moves the PCB inside the controller just slightly enough to reconnect the cable properly?

[Gameguy]

Very cool, thanks for that info.
I hate to rip it open, as it's fresh out of the pack, but I have enough controllers now that I can play around with this one.
It just confused me that unplugging it and reinserting it into the console solved the issue.
The Model number is SCPH-10010
Where did you buy your new controller? Are you sure it's not a bootleg?

You could open it up and clean the ribbon connections with alcohol, maybe they were sloppy when assembling it at the factory. It's been awhile since I've opened a PS2 controller, but I think the ribbon cable is just pressed to the board instead of soldered to it. I don't even think it's a circuit board inside, it's just some flexible plastic sheet with traces on it. They're really cheaply made.

[zakthedodo]

Where did you buy your new controller? Are you sure it's not a bootleg?

You could open it up and clean the ribbon connections with alcohol, maybe they were sloppy when assembling it at the factory. It's been awhile since I've opened a PS2 controller, but I think the ribbon cable is just pressed to the board instead of soldered to it. I don't even think it's a circuit board inside, it's just some flexible plastic sheet with traces on it. They're really cheaply made.

I'm gong to try that with the alcohol and maybe replace the foam from and older controller.
It was an Ebay purchase, but it a real Sony brand with documentation and the Sony logo.
It's identical to the other controllers I own bought in retail stores.

I just wanted a spare for a rainy day, but it looks like I took on an unintended project.
Oh well, at least I'll know how to repair them a bit better.

[BlastProcessing402]

Since you seem to know PS2 controllers, maybe you can explain this one. My first DS2 (pack in with a system bought late 01) has an issue where the rumble feature will cause the controller to "disconnect" from the system briefly. It's short enough that in some games it doesn't cause a problem, but in games where a disconnected controller makes the game pause, it basically makes them unplayable unless you turn off rumble.

Otherwise it's in pretty good shape, works fine otherwise, and pretty much can't tell the difference between that one and the one that came packed in with my 90000 model slim other than the "slim" one has one less pin on the connector for some reason (and also doesn't have this problem).

[zakthedodo]

Just for an update on this pressing issue:roll:

The newer controller which I had an issue with, I took apart, along with an older one.
To my surprise the newer controller had 2 huge dual shock pads,going down the handles,
while the older one has what seemed to be none which was a bit odd as it did vibrate.

Anyway, aside from that, the pads were identical. So i swapped them, ( washed with some alcohol, reran the wire and it seems to be responding.
I don't think swapping the foam pads was the difference, but perhaps they were centered wrong.

The only other difference was the word 'Dualshock" was written on the back of the controller near the shoulder buttons where it wasn't written on the older one.

Sorry no pics,. It's at my apartment and I won't be there to later.

Thanks everyone for your advice.

[FFStudios]

Since you seem to know PS2 controllers, maybe you can explain this one. My first DS2 (pack in with a system bought late 01) has an issue where the rumble feature will cause the controller to "disconnect" from the system briefly. It's short enough that in some games it doesn't cause a problem, but in games where a disconnected controller makes the game pause, it basically makes them unplayable unless you turn off rumble.

Although I don't have a solution to this problem, I used to have a similar issue with a previous controller where rumble would turn off the analog button. Now that REALLY made certain games unplayable.