Sega Master System problems.

[Urzu402]

I recently got a Sega Master System and it does not read cartridges, it boots up to where you play that snail maze game but will not read the cartridge. The only one I have for it is Zillion II.

[Emperor Megas]

Have you been able to test with another cartridge? You said you only have Zillion II, so I'm guessing you may not have tried another cart. Can you borrow another from someone to make sure it's not just your cartridge? I'm sorry if you have already and that sounds like a 'duh' type answer, but it's worth asking.

[Urzu402]

I don't know anyone else with a Sega Master System. I have tried cleaning the contacts on the game and the system, the model number for the system is 3010. It came with 2 controllers, the light phaser, a random 2600 controller and the 3d Glasses but they are broken.

[Urzu402]

Double post please delete.

[ApolloBoy]

Reflow the solder joints on the cartridge connector, it seems to be a super common problem with the SMS (mainly with models that have Hang-On/Safari Hunt built in).

[Urzu402]

I'm not good at soldering stuff, also like 2 times when it started it said "Master System Software Error (c) Sega 1986" also if it matters it says V1.3 in the corner.

[Urzu402]

Picture of the error:
http://i.imgur.com/AZAGwai.jpg

Though most of the time it starts up to the screen that shows when there is no game inserted.

[T2KFreeker]

I've seen it before, but it generally happens when the SMS can't read your cart. How are you cleaning the contacts, if you don't mind me asking? The fact that the cart should have standard screws, a great trick for SMS carts is the old pink eraser. It's like when you shine up a penny. Rub the eraser across the pins until they are bright and shiny.

[Greg2600]

Difficult to pinpoint if you only have one cartridge. Most likely either the console's pin slot or the cartridge are still dirty.

[Urzu402]

I am cleaning them with a Q-Tip and rubbing alcohol.

[Urzu402]

I took apart the game, the pin connectors on it are shiny and pretty clean, so I am guessing its an issue with the system. The board on the game had just one chip and was small I don't know if that is normal for these games, the chip had the Sega logo too.

[Gameguy]

Reflow the solder joints on the cartridge connector, it seems to be a super common problem with the SMS (mainly with models that have Hang-On/Safari Hunt built in).
This is the correct answer, I had the same problem with one of my consoles. The connector is in the console.

If you can't fix it yourself, find somebody else who can help you out with this.

[Urzu402]

I took apart the system, there seems to be a lot of corrosion and rust near where the cart connector is:
http://i.imgur.com/OmkeCDlh.jpg

[ramapcsx2]

Yea, this board needs preservation effort. Please find someone or invest the time and learn how to do this yourself :)
The corrosion needs to be removed and the remaining metal protected. Then I bet the cause of your problems are
rotten traces that will have to be bridged (requires soldering and a multimeter, but it's not too hard).

[Urzu402]

What would get rid of the corrosion? At the moment all I have is Rubbing alcohol and glass cleaner.

[Greg2600]

What would get rid of the corrosion? At the moment all I have is Rubbing alcohol and glass cleaner.

I think white vinegar works,to lo osen it up. I believe you have to soak it, then use a brush (preferably an acide brush) to take the gunk off. Then the rubbing alcohol to wash it away. However, you may still need to reflow solder/fix traces after that is done. That thing is an utter mess.

[Gameguy]

It may just look worse than it really is, as it does play the built in game properly. It could just be the cart slot which needs solder reflowed, it's easiest to just do that first. If that doesn't work, then look into checking the traces which takes a bunch of time. Or trash the thing and buy another one.

[ApolloBoy]

It looks like the corrosion is just limited to the ground plane on the edge of the motherboard. Look at the solder joints for the cartridge connector and see if they look cracked or have a "ring" around them.

[Urzu402]

I don't think I can remove the system board from the back of the casing because one of the screws the one the right side seems to have completely rusted and there is no way a screw driver can work normally for it.

[Gameguy]

If you can't remove the board then there's no way you can fix the console, everything you need access to is on the bottom of the board. If the screw is rusted, can you drill it out?

[ApolloBoy]

because one of the screws the one the right side seems to have completely rusted and there is no way a screw driver can work normally for it.
It's only screwed into a plastic boss so you can still unscrew it.

[Urzu402]

It's the head of the screw that is completely rusted if i try to unscrew it with a normal Screw driver its just going to ruin the screw more. At this point should I just contact the seller on eBay and ask to return it?

[Gameguy]

What was the auction described as? Was it supposed to be fully working or just for parts?

[Urzu402]

The Item condition says


item condition:
Used

“system shows signs of wear 3d glasses the ears are broken off”

The description says nothing of it not working.

[ApolloBoy]

It's the head of the screw that is completely rusted if i try to unscrew it with a normal Screw driver its just going to ruin the screw more. At this point should I just contact the seller on eBay and ask to return it?
It's probably just the surface of the screw. I've unscrewed rusty ones before and you just have to take it a little slow and use a slightly bigger bit than you usually would.

[BlastProcessing402]

Corroded slot? Rusted screws? Sounds like someone had a flood LOL

You probably won't be able to fix it, either return it or donate it to someone who can.

[BlastProcessing402]

Corroded slot? Rusted screws? Sounds like someone had a flood LOL

You probably won't be able to fix it, either return it or donate it to someone who can.

[BlastProcessing402]

Corroded slot? Rusted screws? Sounds like someone had a flood, LOL

You probably won't be able to fix it, either return it or donate it to someone who can.

[Urzu402]

Ok so I ended up getting a working Master System, though it's a bit different from the other one, the model number still says 3020 and it says made in Thailand where the other one says Made in China. Also the new working one doesn't show anything when you start it up without a game where the other one starts up with instructions of how to play a game. Also the controller that came with the new one has the screw in Joystick not sure what that's about.

[thegamezmaster]

Is it a ball type that's screwed into the controller? Those were with the older Sega Master Systems. Just unscrew it if you don't like it. Those are pretty rare IIRC.

[Urzu402]

I suppose its that, its like a ball on a stick that screws into the DPad.

[Urzu402]

Picture of the two types of controllers I got (I have 3 controllers but didn't include the 3rd because its the same as the one without the joystick in the picture.)
http://i.imgur.com/UXcxnOX.jpg

[BlastProcessing402]

Sorry for the multiposts, board was acting really screwy that day. :help:

[Gameguy]

Picture of the two types of controllers I got (I have 3 controllers but didn't include the 3rd because its the same as the one without the joystick in the picture.)
http://i.imgur.com/UXcxnOX.jpg
They're older but not the oldest, the oldest ones have the cord coming out from the right side of the controllers.

Like these;
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b6/Sega-Master-System-Controllers.jpg

They're horrible to use.

[Raedon]

The solder used for the SMS sucks ass. I've had to repair 60% of the ones that have passed by me. Bad points include mostly controller ports but everything is susceptible.

If all else fails. Reflux and solder cart points.

[ApolloBoy]

The solder used for the SMS sucks ass.
I think it has less to do with the solder quality and more to do with the fact that the through-holes on later SMS boards are only plated on the bottom.

[Urzu402]

They're older but not the oldest, the oldest ones have the cord coming out from the right side of the controllers.

Like these;
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b6/Sega-Master-System-Controllers.jpg

They're horrible to use.

It is hard to tell, in the picture I posted, but the wire of the one with the Stick attachment is coming out of the side, the other controller has it coming out of the top.

[Gameguy]

It is hard to tell, in the picture I posted, but the wire of the one with the Stick attachment is coming out of the side, the other controller has it coming out of the top.
I didn't see that. How do you find that controller compared to the newer one? Not just with the cord getting in the way, but the quality of the D-pad. I recently tried playing some games with a newer controller and the games were actually playable, I got past the first level in Double Dragon without too much trouble. I've used several original controllers and I've found them almost unusable.

[Urzu402]

I didn't see that. How do you find that controller compared to the newer one? Not just with the cord getting in the way, but the quality of the D-pad. I recently tried playing some games with a newer controller and the games were actually playable, I got past the first level in Double Dragon without too much trouble. I've used several original controllers and I've found them almost unusable.

The D-pad of the one with the Stick seems more rigid than the other one, also using the stick part seems annoying because it doesn't have free range of motion like you would have on an Analog stick some times its a pain in the ass to get it to register a Down direct press with the stick so I have to physically press the D-pad down on the side of the stick. The other controller is better its more easier to press down directions. as of now I only have 2 Master System games, Zillion 2 and Hang On / Safari Hunt.