PS3 (60GB original model) suffers video glitch and freezes

[SkiDragon]

(been a while since I've been on here)

My PS3 has worked fine since 2008, but it now seems to be suffering from a lesser known problem. I've read about the 'yellow light of death' and how it is caused by a problem with the GPU overheating and ruining the shit solder joints (I hate RoHS).

Mine isn't giving a yellow light, but does have a problem that seems GPU related. If I haven't used it in a long time, the PS3 will boot up and function for a few minutes or so, and then will inevitable end up with distorted video, and the system freezes. Although if I make it into a game, I can often hear music continue to play in the background, at least for a while. Resetting it at this point will cause it to almost immediately do the same thing upon reboot. It has to 'cool down' before it will work at all.

Here are some pictures of what it looks like.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v282/SkiDragon/IMG_20140710_180701.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v282/SkiDragon/IMG_20140711_022453.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v282/SkiDragon/IMG_20140904_033004.jpg

I tried the relatively easy fix recommended for the yellow light problem, taking my heatgun to the CPU and GPU chips in an attempt to reflow the BGA connections. This did not seem to help.

So basically, I have two questions:
a) Is this some other known issue that has a different fix?

or more likely, and slightly off topic
b) which is a good model to get as a replacement? I am resigned that a replacement won't have PS2 backwards compatibility, so I'm guessing it's just a debate between the 'slim' and 'super slim'. Which is more reliable? Can I easily take my existing hard drive and stick it into a new PS3 to retain my saves/etc? Is one model more 'locked down' when it comes to rooting/jailbreaking the system...? Should I risk getting a used console?

Thanks!

[CDiablo]

I dont have a ton of experience fixing PS3's but I would think there is a potential problem with the HDMI. Either the cable or the PS3 output or the tv input.

[MASTERWEEDO]

I dont have a ton of experience fixing PS3's but I would think there is a potential problem with the HDMI. Either the cable or the PS3 output or the tv input.

That can be easily checked by using the composite cord.

It sounds to me like this is on its last legs. Mine did this about a week or two before dying.

[Niku-Sama]

looks like a fried vbideocard I had once....or when I push my overclock too far.

any way if component yields the same results the only way your probably going to fix it is to replace the GPU...

[xelement5x]

If it still boots up, copy your saves off it onto a thumb drive or something ASAP. PS3 hard drives are encrypted to the system, so while you could put the hard drive in another PS3, it will wipe out all the data.

[SkiDragon]

If it still boots up, copy your saves off it onto a thumb drive or something ASAP. PS3 hard drives are encrypted to the system, so while you could put the hard drive in another PS3, it will wipe out all the data.

Yeah, I found this out the hard way. It's already modded with some firmware that I don't remember. It looks like there is some way to get the keys off if I could get it working for a reasonable length of time, but the only chance of that would be to try taking the heat gun to it again.

[ScoreAddict]

Sounds like your GPU needs a proper reballing - or has to be replaced. Unfortunately, the heat gun method (even if done properly) doesn't fix this.

Also check the cooling fan and assembly! I've come across a number of fat PS3s where they were on their last leg, running way too slow to do any proper cooling - and even being "melted" in some places due to heat!

[otoko]

Sorry to hear about your 60gb PS3.

I've gone though a lot of repairs on 60gb Ps3's. I've also modded one with PC heatsinks which worked. It only is broken now because of my own stupidity. They actually designed a terrific board. The downfall of the machine is the entire cooling system. It was very poorly designed. The system is designed to pull air through the front and blow it out the back. It does not compensate the hot power supply though. If you pay attention to the design the power supply is designed to get it's cooling from the fan underneath the system. The fan is supposed to blow cool air up and around the board/power switch on the bottom half of the system then push the hot air through the solid blue ray drive. Since it gets low to no airflow it will get hot. This problem will heat up the board and the protective metal shields. The metal shield also is a heat sink for the RAM, emotion engine, and other heat prone chips on the board so they also do not get a chance to cool down properly. This is all coupled with a poorly designed heatsink compensated by a large fan set at low default speeds. Ultimately, what will do in your machine is that it has a hot running Video Processor and the solder keeping it in will reliquify with the heat.

I figured out most of these while working on my PC heatsink mod. When in the testing stages the power supply would constantly overheat under light use. This kept happening until I added an exhaust fan which would allow the PSU to breath. However the original xbox 360 design still takes the prize for worse console design of that generation. Worthless.

So far trying to keep them alive has given me a box of 10 bad boards and a stack of 5 some odd blu ray drives. All models after are more reliable to a point but all the models are subject to YOLD. Phats will be more likely to YOLD than Slims because they where much smarter with design.

Overall If I had to get a machine I'd go for the original Slim. The internal design choice is smart and it's not cheap construction. The case will be more reliable with any physical misconduct. Otherwise the superslim is alright, just don't expect a whole lot of quality from the casing.