Sony PlayStation Console Board Identification Help?

[Videogamerdaryll]

I have this clear shelled Original PlayStation Console ..I've had it for many years,I bought the clear shell so long ago but the laser lens is bad now..

I don't know what I did with it's original shell..

I'm trying to either buy the Laser..or=easier just swap the internals from a working Console..

I've checked so far two consoles that look similar but aren't..5501 & 7501 aren't the same.

Is there a way to identify the SCPH version on this board?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/Chris1/Sony%20Playstation%20Clear/PS%20ID%20012_zpshx9sdcpm.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chris1/media/Sony%20Playstation%20Clear/PS%20ID%20012_zpshx9sdcpm.jpg.html)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/Chris1/Sony%20Playstation%20Clear/PS%20ID%20014_zpspvpvt34h.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chris1/media/Sony%20Playstation%20Clear/PS%20ID%20014_zpspvpvt34h.jpg.html)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/Chris1/Sony%20Playstation%20Clear/PS%20ID%20016_zpsdy7jzc9o.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chris1/media/Sony%20Playstation%20Clear/PS%20ID%20016_zpsdy7jzc9o.jpg.html)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/Chris1/Sony%20Playstation%20Clear/PS%20ID%20015_zpstd2q6cka.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chris1/media/Sony%20Playstation%20Clear/PS%20ID%20015_zpstd2q6cka.jpg.html)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/Chris1/Sony%20Playstation%20Clear/th_PS%20ID%20017_zps3gc6wxvr.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chris1/media/Sony%20Playstation%20Clear/PS%20ID%20017_zps3gc6wxvr.jpg.html)


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/Chris1/Sony%20Playstation%20Clear/th_PS%20ID%20013_zps1pcjrcf6.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chris1/media/Sony%20Playstation%20Clear/PS%20ID%20013_zps1pcjrcf6.jpg.html)

[Niku-Sama]

Would have to see the actual board to guess that. Can you unhook the stuff and take the top shielding off to take main board pics?

Also our off curiosity have you scrubbed the laser lens with alcohol and a q-tip to try to get it working?

Had one do that and that's all it took
Other times it's pot adjustments, which are tedious

As a side note 5501 and 7501 assemblies should still work on that unit

[Videogamerdaryll]

Would have to see the actual board to guess that. Can you unhook the stuff and take the top shielding off to take main board pics?

Also our off curiosity have you scrubbed the laser lens with alcohol and a q-tip to try to get it working?

Had one do that and that's all it took
Other times it's pot adjustments, which are tedious

As a side note 5501 and 7501 assemblies should still work on that unit

Yes I will take it apart and add more pictures..Thanks..

Yea lens cleaning didn't help.the system will only load to a games opening screen then resets to splash screen ,it'll just keep doing that..I tried using the lens assemblies from both the 5501 and 7501 .the wire lengths are different so I had to swap them,for some reason neither will work,turn the system on and the lens does nothing,it's like the wiring is different between the lens in this system and the 5501- 7501 ..I put the 5501 and 7501 lens assemblies back into their boards and they work..

The problem I have is the clear shell doesn't have the same screw locations to fit the 5501 and 7501 board assemblies .there is plastic parts in the bottom of the shell that the 5501 and 7501 board assemblies don't fit into,parts are lifted...They look so close but don't match up to the board set in this clear unit..
When I bought the clear shell it was for the specific console ..I'll add more pics

[Videogamerdaryll]

I took the console apart may as well wash the plastics..

I took a video of the board.
https://youtu.be/CvHGurzp6oo

[Niku-Sama]

its a PU-18 or PU-20 main board used in SCPH-700x, SCPH-500x/550x/555x

the best way to determine is...
PU-18 its going to have chips on the bottom
PU-20 is going to be smooth on the bottom, no chips

both revisions have similar shielding on top, copper flappy bit and the soldered tin part.

PU-18 would be SCPH-500x/550x/555x
PU-20 would be SCPH-700x

replace the "x" with 0 for Japan, 1 for US, 2 for Europe although laser assemblies should be the same in the regions

SCPH-750x went to something different, no copper flappy bit

the part I find odd is they should swap laser assemblies so I am thinking that something else is wrong. from personal experience I've traded laser assemblies across different revisions (SCPH-1001 to 7501 and in between) and its worked fine

[Videogamerdaryll]

its a PU-18 or PU-20 main board used in SCPH-700x, SCPH-500x/550x/555x

the best way to determine is...
PU-18 its going to have chips on the bottom
PU-20 is going to be smooth on the bottom, no chips

both revisions have similar shielding on top, copper flappy bit and the soldered tin part.

PU-18 would be SCPH-500x/550x/555x
PU-20 would be SCPH-700x

replace the "x" with 0 for Japan, 1 for US, 2 for Europe although laser assemblies should be the same in the regions

SCPH-750x went to something different, no copper flappy bit

the part I find odd is they should swap laser assemblies so I am thinking that something else is wrong. from personal experience I've traded laser assemblies across different revisions (SCPH-1001 to 7501 and in between) and its worked fine


WOW,that's some great info..Thank you so so much..
I'm going to try to switch the laser again maybe I'm doing something wrong..

[Niku-Sama]

No problem, I did a lot of research on PSX systems when I was working on my Internal Sync on Green PSX RGB mod using component cables.
ALOT of different main board revisions.

ok theres a POT on the copper colored brown ribbon cable for the laser assembly that I have had to adjust in the past to get it working. it varies the resistance to the diode in the assembly so you can set it to the proper resistance and the laser will read properly

8345

I remember you were into pocket bikes and other such things so adjusting this POT is like adjusting Jets on a carb, theres a sweet spot, and it can vary from console to console. often times they are close enough that they will work but some times you get one you have to tweak because it has more miles on it than the old one or some other un explainable reason that causes it to need to be adjusted.

I take the least scientific method to adjusting these, I turn it a little with the top of the system off, stick a game on, turn the system on and hold the button down for the lid in the back with a pencil eraser or something. If it works, GREAT, button it up. If not then keep going till it does its thing. I've adjusted these things all around for hours before I found the right spot to get it to work.
I've never fried an assembly doing this but that's not to say that it wont happen but if it does fry any thing adjusting the POT will only fry the laser diode. its all pretty low voltage so no need to worry there.

i'd give it a whack, judging from what you were saying about going back to the splash screen it sounds like its something else going on, but give it a shot and see what happens.