Tell me about PVMs!

[jperryss]

Hi all,
I'm looking to retire my Trinitron CRT setup due to space limitations and am considering picking up a small PVM.

Here is my current system list (no video mods)
Famicom AV
Super Famicom
PC Engine/CD briefcase setup
Wii

-The PVMs I've seen have composite and component inputs with (I think) BNC connections. Can I get component-out on any of these older systems (except Wii of course) without opening them up and modding?

-Should I expect much improvement over my Trinitron if I stick with composite connections?

-Most of the Sony models seem to be 8", 14", or 20". I don't think I'll be able to fit a 20" in the location I plan to use. It 14" going to be too small for 1-player gaming? If you've upgraded from a larger TV to a smaller PVM, were you satisfied with the improvement?

Thanks!

[eskobar]

Hi all,
I'm looking to retire my Trinitron CRT setup due to space limitations and am considering picking up a small PVM.

Here is my current system list (no video mods)
Famicom AV
Super Famicom
PC Engine/CD briefcase setup
Wii

-The PVMs I've seen have composite and component inputs with (I think) BNC connections. Can I get component-out on any of these older systems (except Wii of course) without opening them up and modding?

-Should I expect much improvement over my Trinitron if I stick with composite connections?

-Most of the Sony models seem to be 8", 14", or 20". I don't think I'll be able to fit a 20" in the location I plan to use. It 14" going to be too small for 1-player gaming? If you've upgraded from a larger TV to a smaller PVM, were you satisfied with the improvement?

Thanks!


Hello!.

You can get RGB out with no mod on Super Famicom. If you want RGB for Famicom and AV and PC Engine you need mods. Wii outputs YPbPr Component.

There is a considerable upgrade in the picture even if you only use composite video on the PVM, the superior quality of the monitor really stands out and is quite easy to see a difference in picture quality. There are many PVM models, some have RGB/Component inputs and some other only have RGB, S-video or Composite on BNC connectors. Some have special multi-pin rgb inputs that need special cables to be able to connect a console.

I feel comfortable with my 14" PVM because I play very close to the monitor and that makes up for the smaller size. I still enjoy playing with bigger TVs but the picture quality is inferior and I tend to be a bit picky about it, so I prefer my small PVM.

I have a 199X Panasonic 13" monitor and it uses shadow mask technology to display images, the picture is a bit softer but the picture is very nice quality and the headphone output in the front of the monitor is really great to have a great gaming experience in short space without making noise if your daughter or wife are asleep.

Hope this information helps your decision to buy a crt monitor

[Zap!]

They are awesome! Just make sure you have the right RGB SCART cables for your particular system. One you go RGB, you never go back! Here's my 20" PVM beauty:

9706

[CRTGAMER]

Hi all,
I'm looking to retire my Trinitron CRT setup due to space limitations and am considering picking up a small PVM.
Don't do it, make room for your TV! Well, at least try the PVM before getting rid of the Trinitron. The smaller screen size of the PVM will might ruin your gaming experience. Yes a PVM has really great picture, but a Sony Flat Tube (if that is what you have) has newer features that gives a great picture and at a much larger screen size.

[jperryss]

I forgot to revisit this thread! I picked up a 20M2MDU, just waiting for the new corner stand so I can setup the receiver and speakers that will go with it.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/433791/2016-09-27%2020.50.58.jpg

[Niku-Sama]

I've got that same monitor. My only complaint is it's a pain to switch it from rgb to component and back

[jperryss]

I've got that same monitor. My only complaint is it's a pain to switch it from rgb to component and back

Agreed! I had a 14" for a short time before I got the 20" and on that one you could switch RGB/component and int/ext sync without having to go into a menu.

[AdamAnt316]

I just picked up a nice Sony PVM-14N2U (http://www.recycledgoods.com/sony-pvm-14n2u-14-trinitron-color-video-monitor.html) at a hamfest, of all places, for $10. The seller had a camcorder hooked to one of the composite inputs, and the picture was fantastic! I can't wait to see what it looks like with my composite-capable consoles, and it should be interesting to see how older RF-only consoles look when connected to it using my Sony ST-7TV tuner. Unfortunately, the switch behind the front panel RGB button seems to be busted; pressing the button doesn't make a tactile click or engage the RGB input. Hopefully, it won't be too difficult to fix.

It should be noted that not all of these PVMs had RGB inputs. According to this brochure (https://cvp.com/pdf/sony_nseries_brch.pdf), the PVM line in the mid '90s had models available either with (PVM-14/20N6U/E) or without (PVM-14/20N5U/E) RGB capabilities. Both look the same, but the RGB button is missing from the front panel of the latter (note the illustration on the last page of the PDF). I'm not sure if this was true for other monitors from the PVM series, but if you're specifically looking for an RGB-capable monitor, it's a good thing to keep in mind.
-Adam

[jperryss]

I just picked up a nice Sony PVM-14N2U (http://www.recycledgoods.com/sony-pvm-14n2u-14-trinitron-color-video-monitor.html) at a hamfest, of all places, for $10. The seller had a camcorder hooked to one of the composite inputs, and the picture was fantastic! I can't wait to see what it looks like with my composite-capable consoles, and it should be interesting to see how older RF-only consoles look when connected to it using my Sony ST-7TV tuner. Unfortunately, the switch behind the front panel RGB button seems to be busted; pressing the button doesn't make a tactile click or engage the RGB input. Hopefully, it won't be too difficult to fix.

It should be noted that not all of these PVMs had RGB inputs. According to this brochure (https://cvp.com/pdf/sony_nseries_brch.pdf), the PVM line in the mid '90s had models available either with (PVM-14/20N6U/E) or without (PVM-14/20N5U/E) RGB capabilities. Both look the same, but the RGB button is missing from the front panel of the latter (note the illustration on the last page of the PDF). I'm not sure if this was true for other monitors from the PVM series, but if you're specifically looking for an RGB-capable monitor, it's a good thing to keep in mind.
-Adam

The 14/20N1 and 14/20N5 series were composite and s-video only. I couldn't keep track of the model numbers so I got into the habit of looking at the back first to see what it had for inputs. Most of the models that support RGB will also support YPbPr component. Some of the smaller ones were monochrome.

BTW nice find! I had button issues with a 14M2U recently and noticed they were a bit crooked in the sockets. I was able to correct them with a small flathead screwdriver and they worked great after that.

[AdamAnt316]

The 14/20N1 and 14/20N5 series were composite and s-video only. I couldn't keep track of the model numbers so I got into the habit of looking at the back first to see what it had for inputs. Most of the models that support RGB will also support YPbPr component. Some of the smaller ones were monochrome.

I haven't actively been looking for these PVMs, and didn't do any research beforehand; just figured I'd keep an eye out for one in my travels after reading the glowing reviews on forums like this. When I spotted this 14N2 at the hamfest, I figured I'd get it for use with some of my vintage computers, and it happened to be for sale at a good price. I have yet to do much with RGB or component, so the fact that I happened to acquire one so-equipped is a nice bonus which perhaps will come in handy later.


BTW nice find! I had button issues with a 14M2U recently and noticed they were a bit crooked in the sockets. I was able to correct them with a small flathead screwdriver and they worked great after that.

Good to know, thanks! I'll have to open it up at some point, and see exactly what's going on behind the button panel. BTW, I saw some other PVMs at another hamfest today, a couple of 9" ones as well as a 14" model which had had some sort of component upgrade board installed. I probably should've grabbed the latter one, but space is a premium for me at this point, and I think one 14" PVM is enough for the time being. Perhaps if I spot one of the 20+ inchers... :roll:
-Adam

[Niku-Sama]

my 20md2mu (or what ever it is) had a similar problem with the input slection and menu buttons.
I cracked it open expecting to find a busted microswitch but I found a bunch of Styrofoam in behind the front panel and some of it was breaking down and making the buttons all gunky.
I got it fixed for the most part, took a vacuum and sucked it out and then took denatured alcohol on a q tip to them and went to town. fixed most of the switches one is still a bit funky and thought about replacing it but I couldn't find another one like it but for now it works.

it was probably from the packing foam I am guessing

[jperryss]

I haven't actively been looking for these PVMs, and didn't do any research beforehand; just figured I'd keep an eye out for one in my travels after reading the glowing reviews on forums like this. When I spotted this 14N2 at the hamfest, I figured I'd get it for use with some of my vintage computers, and it happened to be for sale at a good price. I have yet to do much with RGB or component, so the fact that I happened to acquire one so-equipped is a nice bonus which perhaps will come in handy later.

Be warned, once you see how good RGB can look, it's hard to go back to composite. :)


my 20md2mu (or what ever it is) had a similar problem with the input slection and menu buttons.
I cracked it open expecting to find a busted microswitch but I found a bunch of Styrofoam in behind the front panel and some of it was breaking down and making the buttons all gunky.
I got it fixed for the most part, took a vacuum and sucked it out and then took denatured alcohol on a q tip to them and went to town. fixed most of the switches one is still a bit funky and thought about replacing it but I couldn't find another one like it but for now it works.

it was probably from the packing foam I am guessing

Interesting. How hard is it to get behind that front panel? I had the case removed from the 14 at one point but got intimidated and put it right back together, heh.

[AdamAnt316]

my 20md2mu (or what ever it is) had a similar problem with the input slection and menu buttons.
I cracked it open expecting to find a busted microswitch but I found a bunch of Styrofoam in behind the front panel and some of it was breaking down and making the buttons all gunky.
I got it fixed for the most part, took a vacuum and sucked it out and then took denatured alcohol on a q tip to them and went to town. fixed most of the switches one is still a bit funky and thought about replacing it but I couldn't find another one like it but for now it works.

it was probably from the packing foam I am guessing

Good to know, thanks! Various types of foam have long been the bane of a vintage electronics collector's existence, particularly with regards to button switches (and high-end speakers). The stuff breaks down, and leaves a powdery or gooey mess which is a PITA to clean. In the case of my 14N2, the LINE A and LINE B buttons feel squishy when pressed, but still manage to engage the switch behind it with a click. The RGB button, on the other hand, feels like there's no switch behind it whatsoever, no matter how hard I press it. I too would like to know if you have any tips on how to get behind that panel.
-Adam