jan112850
09-25-2004, 10:48 AM
Hi again, Wanted to post this email I received and my answer after buying ff3 snes on ebay yesterday (you can prob find auction, don't have # handy)
We have been working to reestablish what's resealed and what a variant sealing done in the factory. I feel we've come farther here than any other information ever available on SNES sealing. My guidelines come from talking with all of you on a previous thread and talking with collectors like bronty 2 and examining many, many sealed snes boxes
This is the email
you just bought a resealed game!!! dont buy it, im warning you, youll be out $$
Thank you,
mariomania
[b] This is the response from me
Thanks but you need to brush up on your sealing of snes games. I just spent 2 weeks studying it and talking with collectors. The problem is convincing them, because, like you they don't have enough information and haven't analysed the entire snes sealing topic. I'm emailing you my guidelines for snes sealing, and you can see the discussion and postings over an entire weekend if you go to digital press forum, and look for the thread on sealing of snes games. There are many many games out there sealed with variations of the H seal collectors accept. It is rediculous to think that 25 machines in some factory in Mexico or Japan will seal every game the same way. If a bolt is loose, if a part is worn, then you get variations in sealing. This particular game to which you refer is NOT RESEALED. I know the seller and I know where he got it. This game, I assume you mean ff3, lacks the "puckering" at the ends of the seams on the long box edges and does not stop short of the edge. Instead the sealing machine went to the end of the box and the puckering is there but happened at the corner of the box. Its a frequent now recognized variant of the typical sealing.
If the machine misses and the sealing does not stop short, then it goes to the end. I've got 3 other such games, all with H seals from sources I know were not resealed, and they are factory all the way. I have many other variations of games which are factory. For instance do you know EVERY game sealed in Mexico which says "assembeled in Mexico" does not have an H seal at all? If it says "Made in Mexico, it should". The collectors are giving far to much credit to the standardization and the calibration of these many machines at many factories. They are not that particular about what rolls out, and they do not throw away the games, that are variations, especially if they find 30 or 40 of them sealed a different way after they find the mistake.
The trick is to identify the real variations from obviously fake games. resealed ones. If you see cracked white line on the back of the flap on the short end of the box, its been opened and resealed. You can't open an snes game without getting some white or cracking on the back flap.
There are many other "rules" and I am emailing you my research. Take it or leave it. But the vast majority of closed minded Collectors not even willing to consider other variations in sealing, or think through why they may happen, astounds me. You honestly think the quality control and calibration of hundreds of machines in dozens of factories sealing many different kinds of games are going to produce only one variant of a seal. That's silly. So, I ask that you open your mind, consider the research we did on digital press and the time I have spent talking to big time collectors and all of us examining different sealed boxes and reconsider what you thought to be true in the past. Like I said its up to you. I enjoy this kind of thing and have made it a major project as no one to my knoweledge has established guidelines for acceptable variations in snes sealing.
Anyway, thanks for your email and here is my summary of snes sealing guidelines
Snes sealing
1. Made in mexico/ Hseal new factory sealed
2. Assembled in Mexico/ re issue by majesco and not same quality, a reissue or 2nd print, may or may not have H seal
3. Made in Japan (which may be on the side and not the back) is 1st print
4. Some Jap games have a variant in back box vertical line, where sealing machine can “miss” and the vertical seam coming off the long edge seam runs down the short side of the box instead of the center of the back. There should be no line/seam on the other side, the opposite short end.
5. If a game has been opened you and resealed, there should be evidence of this in the form of a White line or cracking in the back of the flap on the side it was opened from.
6. An ACCEPTABLE VARIANT OF FACTORY SEALED should include the occasional game where it is made in Japan, meets all of other criteria but has a seam running edge to edge.
I respect you guys/gals after long talks on al of this and would be most interested in your feedback.
I maintain this
It only makes sense that when you consider that a factory may have many sealing machines and there are many factories that machines are going to end up producing variations that some collectors will call "fake, resealed, whatever" when they are absolutely factory sealed. These machines probably are not callibrated and one loose screw or part is going to produce a deviation from the norm.
The game in question has everything about it perfect, the lead off from the vertical seals running down the center of the back of the box, the artwork, The newness of the box with absense of cracking on the back of the short flaps which occur when games are opened. This game would have been one hell of a task for a resealler to accomplish. Its real, in my opinion
It has been very hard to convince others that machines are producing 1000.s of sealed games in factorys with little quality control and that variations will occur.
Please give me your opinions as I know many of you saw the auction and some dismissed it. I guess I believe in my own research, much of that done here, that I "know" its ok
Thanks
S
We have been working to reestablish what's resealed and what a variant sealing done in the factory. I feel we've come farther here than any other information ever available on SNES sealing. My guidelines come from talking with all of you on a previous thread and talking with collectors like bronty 2 and examining many, many sealed snes boxes
This is the email
you just bought a resealed game!!! dont buy it, im warning you, youll be out $$
Thank you,
mariomania
[b] This is the response from me
Thanks but you need to brush up on your sealing of snes games. I just spent 2 weeks studying it and talking with collectors. The problem is convincing them, because, like you they don't have enough information and haven't analysed the entire snes sealing topic. I'm emailing you my guidelines for snes sealing, and you can see the discussion and postings over an entire weekend if you go to digital press forum, and look for the thread on sealing of snes games. There are many many games out there sealed with variations of the H seal collectors accept. It is rediculous to think that 25 machines in some factory in Mexico or Japan will seal every game the same way. If a bolt is loose, if a part is worn, then you get variations in sealing. This particular game to which you refer is NOT RESEALED. I know the seller and I know where he got it. This game, I assume you mean ff3, lacks the "puckering" at the ends of the seams on the long box edges and does not stop short of the edge. Instead the sealing machine went to the end of the box and the puckering is there but happened at the corner of the box. Its a frequent now recognized variant of the typical sealing.
If the machine misses and the sealing does not stop short, then it goes to the end. I've got 3 other such games, all with H seals from sources I know were not resealed, and they are factory all the way. I have many other variations of games which are factory. For instance do you know EVERY game sealed in Mexico which says "assembeled in Mexico" does not have an H seal at all? If it says "Made in Mexico, it should". The collectors are giving far to much credit to the standardization and the calibration of these many machines at many factories. They are not that particular about what rolls out, and they do not throw away the games, that are variations, especially if they find 30 or 40 of them sealed a different way after they find the mistake.
The trick is to identify the real variations from obviously fake games. resealed ones. If you see cracked white line on the back of the flap on the short end of the box, its been opened and resealed. You can't open an snes game without getting some white or cracking on the back flap.
There are many other "rules" and I am emailing you my research. Take it or leave it. But the vast majority of closed minded Collectors not even willing to consider other variations in sealing, or think through why they may happen, astounds me. You honestly think the quality control and calibration of hundreds of machines in dozens of factories sealing many different kinds of games are going to produce only one variant of a seal. That's silly. So, I ask that you open your mind, consider the research we did on digital press and the time I have spent talking to big time collectors and all of us examining different sealed boxes and reconsider what you thought to be true in the past. Like I said its up to you. I enjoy this kind of thing and have made it a major project as no one to my knoweledge has established guidelines for acceptable variations in snes sealing.
Anyway, thanks for your email and here is my summary of snes sealing guidelines
Snes sealing
1. Made in mexico/ Hseal new factory sealed
2. Assembled in Mexico/ re issue by majesco and not same quality, a reissue or 2nd print, may or may not have H seal
3. Made in Japan (which may be on the side and not the back) is 1st print
4. Some Jap games have a variant in back box vertical line, where sealing machine can “miss” and the vertical seam coming off the long edge seam runs down the short side of the box instead of the center of the back. There should be no line/seam on the other side, the opposite short end.
5. If a game has been opened you and resealed, there should be evidence of this in the form of a White line or cracking in the back of the flap on the side it was opened from.
6. An ACCEPTABLE VARIANT OF FACTORY SEALED should include the occasional game where it is made in Japan, meets all of other criteria but has a seam running edge to edge.
I respect you guys/gals after long talks on al of this and would be most interested in your feedback.
I maintain this
It only makes sense that when you consider that a factory may have many sealing machines and there are many factories that machines are going to end up producing variations that some collectors will call "fake, resealed, whatever" when they are absolutely factory sealed. These machines probably are not callibrated and one loose screw or part is going to produce a deviation from the norm.
The game in question has everything about it perfect, the lead off from the vertical seals running down the center of the back of the box, the artwork, The newness of the box with absense of cracking on the back of the short flaps which occur when games are opened. This game would have been one hell of a task for a resealler to accomplish. Its real, in my opinion
It has been very hard to convince others that machines are producing 1000.s of sealed games in factorys with little quality control and that variations will occur.
Please give me your opinions as I know many of you saw the auction and some dismissed it. I guess I believe in my own research, much of that done here, that I "know" its ok
Thanks
S