View Full Version : Asteroids Deluxe resurrection
chadtower
10-19-2004, 12:52 PM
I'm working on resurrecting an Asteroids Deluxe I just picked up. The cab is 100% original right down to the dust inside of it. When I got it the seller told me the power supply is dead.
Last night I taped down the kill switches and powered it up and WAP I got lit LEDs on the control panel and RAM test boot tones. I think the 6th RAM IC has an issue, though, as I believe there are 6 and I got 5 high tones then 1 low tone and that was it. I'll work on it a bit more tonight.
chadtower
10-20-2004, 10:15 AM
I just noticed that the ground prong is cut off of the power cord. I HATE THAT. Every machine I buy is like that. I'm going to have to replace that thing. Morons. :angry:
ClubNinja
10-20-2004, 03:48 PM
Pix Plz. K thx.
(Re: ground prong - those bastards, seriously.)
chadtower
10-20-2004, 04:38 PM
They're coming. How can I take pics when the Sox are playing 6 hours a day?
chadtower
10-21-2004, 08:03 PM
Asteroids Deluxe Goodness (http://www.gis.net/~tower/arcade/asteroidsdeluxe/)
AlanD
10-21-2004, 09:44 PM
By the way, you don't have to tape down the kill switches. The white ones are called service switches and if you pull the plunger stright out they will lock on to allow you to work on the game with the doors open.
chadtower
10-21-2004, 10:29 PM
By the way, you don't have to tape down the kill switches. The white ones are called service switches and if you pull the plunger stright out they will lock on to allow you to work on the game with the doors open.
That would be true if they work properly. These are a bit wonky.
ClubNinja
10-21-2004, 10:33 PM
Nice looking cab there, boss!
AlanD
10-22-2004, 05:29 AM
Ah well was hoping to let you in on the secret :) You would be truly amazed how many people I have dealt with - all long-tie collectors of arcade games - that had no idea that was the way those switches worked.
AlanD
chadtower
10-22-2004, 07:45 AM
Nice looking cab there, boss!
Yeah, it's pretty good. I put that long scratch in the artwork when I took it out of the wagon. Careless!
Last night I reseated all of the socketed eproms. The RAM test tones stopped, but now I don't get any sound or picture. I get a little light in the back of the picture tube, and a little light in the marquee bulb. The control panel LEDs and coin mech bulbs light fine. The PCB light is still on. I think I need a multimeter and to learn to use it.
chadtower
11-01-2004, 03:57 PM
So I have a multimeter now. I snagged one of these (http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog_name=CTLG&category_name=CTLG_011_008_002_000&product_id=22-820). Now I have to disconnect all of the outputs from the power supply and test the fuses/output.
chadtower
01-01-2005, 04:34 PM
Okay, haven't updated this in a while... I replaced all the capacitors on the audio/power board, and replaced the RAM chip that it was indicating was bad. The audio board now tests at 5.1v at the 5v test point and 11.64 at the 10.3 test point. I'm not sure if that 11.64 is acceptable, so I'm looking into that.
Anyone know the answer?
chadtower
01-02-2005, 09:00 PM
Yeah, that's what I thought. I'm going to give the pcb edge connector a hard look, and possibly retin the edge contacts as well.
chadtower
01-03-2005, 10:19 PM
Without redoing the edge connector or the contacts, yet, just took
these measurements from the PCB:
Audio: 11V
X: varied from -12mV to 200mV
Y: varied from 1.8V to 2.9V
Z: varied from 0.65V to 0.95V
chadtower
01-03-2005, 10:20 PM
IT PLAYS!
I put the CP back on, coined it up... pressed the start button... it plays! Play sounds, buttons respond... no picture, no marquee light, no black light... but it plays!
So I guess next is to recap the monitor (have the kit in hand, arrived today along with a big blue cap that I don't need yet, I guess)? And to replace the fluorescent and black lights?
YES! A couple months ago I knew nothing about PCBs and electronics at this level... now, I've rebuilt an audio/power board, repaired a game PCB... I'm going to recap the monitor over the next couple of days (along with two others). What a fucking learning curve this has been. I LOVE IT. :band:
SuperGunGuru
01-04-2005, 03:10 AM
So I guess next is to recap the monitor (have the kit in hand, arrived today along with a big blue cap that I don't need yet, I guess)? And to replace the fluorescent and black lights?
YES! A couple months ago I knew nothing about PCBs and electronics at this level... now, I've rebuilt an audio/power board, repaired a game PCB... I'm going to recap the monitor over the next couple of days (along with two others). What a fucking learning curve this has been. I LOVE IT. :band:
Replacing the big blue capacitor on the power transformer is a good idea, along with replacing the bridge rectifier. I'm working on an Asteroids and a buddy of mine told me I should replace those items. The rectifier is either a small pcb board with 2 diodes on it, or a small, square object with 4 wires coming off it.
chadtower
01-04-2005, 04:42 PM
Research turns up that it should be getting +10V to -10V on the X out or+7.5V to -7.5V on the Y out...
I have a cap kit that I'm going to install, will continue to look into this as well.
chadtower
01-05-2005, 11:31 AM
Much more progress made on this, but I'm not going to duplicate efforts. For a very detailed log of my progress, head here:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,25977.0.html