sega model 1 vs sega model 2

[autobotracing]

Anyone know anything about converting model 1 to a model 2 system.


Im sure I will need a game and motherboard.


Im wanting to make my virtua racing cab into a model 2 system.

Im not going to change the look of the unit. just the addition of the model 2 stuff.



Im wanting to make it where I can use the existing pedals wheel and shifter and use them on the games.

games like

daytona usa
sega rally
Sega Touring Car
Touring Car Championship
Indy 500


and possibly add some guns so I can run house of the dead and the virtua cops .

[autobotracing]

I did find some info on google groups


Does anyone who has the manual or the game be willing to help me out with
>wiring up the Model2 board? Any help would me most appreciated.


I'll try. First let me point out that you'll need a "medium resolution"
monitor (24.83 kHz scan rate) rather than the standard type monitor (15.75
kHz scan rate) that is in most cabinets. A monitor from any Sega model 1 or
model 2 game will work, as will one from several Williams/Midway recent
games such as Cruisin. If you're buying a monitor outright, a Wells Gardner
U5000 or the newer K7500 will work. (I have a U5000 and it can be switched
between the two modes; unfortunately the K7500, which is its replacement,
can not. This is only a problem if you want to use the same monitor with
different games like I do.) According to my manual, you should use a power
supply which supplies 10A at +5V. No other voltages are used.

The rest of this assumes your VF2 is a model 2A (3 boards stacked, top one
is about half the width of the other two). I think all VF2's were 2A's.
There should also be a board on one end with all the connectors on it which
has a Sega logo on it and says "FLT BD A-CRX". If it says "B-CRX" or "C-CRX"
let me know because the connections are slightly different. If you are lucky
all of this is still in a metal case with a fan on the other end. If you
didn't get the case (like me), may I suggest you mount a fan of your own to
keep the boards cool so your game will have a long and healthy life. :)


Here's the pinout info:


Connectors CN3 & CN12
pins 1 through 5 -- +5v (wire them all because of the amount of
current involved
pins 6 through 10 -- ground (ditto)


Connector CN13 (audio is line-level, so you need to hook to an amp, just
like Capcom CPS2 & CPS3)
pin 1 -- Audio ground Left (audio grounds *might* be common, I'm not
sure)
pin 2 -- Audio Left
pin 3 -- Audio ground Right
pin 4 -- Audio Right


Connector CN11
pin 1 -- coin meter 1
pin 2 -- coin meter 2 (if used)
pins 3 through 8 -- not used


Connector CN10
pin 1 -- coin switch 1
pin 2 -- coin switch 2 (if used)
pin 3 -- Test
pin 4 -- Service
pin 5 -- not used
pin 6 -- not used
pin 7 -- 1P Start
pin 8 -- 2P Start
pin 9 -- 1P Button 1 (probably guard)
pin 10 -- 1P Button 2 (probably punch)
pin 11 -- 1P Button 3 (probably kick)
pin 12 -- not used
pin 13 -- 1P Down
pin 14 -- 1P Up
pin 15 -- 1P Right
pin 16 -- 1P Left
pin 17 -- 2P Button 1
pin 18 -- 2P Button 2
pin 19 -- 2P Button 3
pin 20 -- not used
pin 21 -- 2P Down
pin 22 -- 2P Up
pin 23 -- 2P Right
pin 24 -- 2P Left
pin 25 -- not used


Connector CN7
pin 1 -- Red monitor signal
pin 2 -- Green monitor signal
pin 3 -- Blue monitor signal
pin 4 -- Composite sync
pin 5 -- Monitor ground

[chadtower]

Looks like you have the info right there.