Resurfacing contacts?

[CasualCoreGamer]

Here's the situation: the contacts on my diving board coverter have been worn down to bare silver leading me to cut a chunk out of the board allowing me to pull the board further back, allowing the untouched copper toward the end to touch the console's contacts. Is there any way to resurface the worn area, (like maybe using copper shielding paint, for example) that's tried and true, or am I the first to cope with this problem? Thanks for any help in advance.

[chadtower]

I know you can solder, so here is a simple method:

Get a wet cloth, some appropriate solder, and your iron. Get a drop of molten solder as far up on the contact as you can, then use the wet cloth to make a quick swipe in the direction of the contact. That should spread the molten solder all the way across the contact, removing excess into the cloth. This is called retinning your contacts, and can be done on any edge connector. It works perfectly and is a good idea on old/worn contacts anyway. It's something we do CONSTANTLY with old arcade cabinets and pinball games.

[CasualCoreGamer]

Beautiful! I'm on that tonight. I mean it plays fine with my slight "modification", but I just don't want to keep playing catch up with a receding contact. Thanks, Chad. You're a true champion of justice. :pimp:

[rbudrick]

Wow...great technique! Would a wet sponge work also? Or should I definitely use a cloth? Just wondering because a sponge is thicker and one is less likely to get burned, since solder dries so quickly. But then, I guess you could just fold the cloth over a couple times.
-Rob

[Bratwurst]

Yep, sponge is better (firmer and easier to swipe) but your techniques and preferences may vary.

Addendum: To get a good bond between the surface of the contact and solder put the tip of the iron on the trace to heat it up and 'melt' the solder upon contact with the trace itself, this is to prevent a cold solder joint.

[chadtower]

That's correct. Sponge or cloth really doesn't matter because it's damp. I didn't mention the actual tip to the contact bit because I know CasualCoreGamer is an experienced solderer. The only caveat there is to do it quickly, if you keep that contact hot too long it will delaminate and then you've gone from bad to far far worse.

[Slate]

There is a better, And far less risky way.

Use cramelin and Q-Tips as if you were cleaning the contacts with Q-Tips & Rubbing alcohol. I've tried it with Knuckles Chaotix. works great!

Cramelin is Expensive, however.. So don't waste any.

[chadtower]

It's Cramolin, and that's a contact cleaner. A contact cleaner is not going to regenerate scraped off contacts, which is what he needs to do.

Plus, Cramolin was discontinued quite a while ago.

The original manufacturer does make a product called ProGold that will actually enhance the conductivity, but that's the sort of thing you'd use on items far more expensive than a $50 game adapter.

ProGold (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=341-235)

A bit pricey for this, but it could work better.

[Slate]

I didn't realise that it was discontinued.

I guess ProGold was what my freind used on that 32x game.. :hmm:

[chadtower]

Yeah... unless that's a RARE game, a retin with solder is the best way to go. That other stuff just costs too much.

[CasualCoreGamer]

Well, the surgery was successful last night neat & quick. I was a little scared about the tip to contact routine , but managed to do it lightning fast. Out of curiosity, I ordered the ProGold to use in conjunction with the retinning as well as my instrument/amp stuff. Thanks for the link, Chad.

[chadtower]

Yeah, your amps are a great application of the ProGold. I actually didn't know much about that myself until I looked it up here, and am strongly considering using that going forward in my pins/cabs. Pins are especially touchy about that stuff since they get jostled a lot.