Seeking Assistance: Monitor Replacement

[blissfulnoise]

So I got my Neo Geo 4-Slot in a dedicated cab, however, it seems the monitor is poo.

I'd like to exchange the monitor in my 1-Slot with the one in my 4-Slot and do it without killing myself. I mainly want to do this myself so I can better learn how all the internal components in the cabinet are connected (instead of brining in a professional).

Does anyone have any suggestions or pointers I should be particularly aware of during this sensitive operation? Or even a nice "how to replace your dead 25" arcade monitor and not electrocute yourself in the process" guide?

I've searched around on the net, but most guides are "how to install your PC monitor". Would these be relevant in my case?

Thanks in advance!

[chadtower]

Well, first of all, don't touch the thing until you know where the anode cap is and that touching it will discharge 40000 volts into you. I would explain all of that but don't have time right now...

[blissfulnoise]

I've done enough research in advance to find out where the anode is ;)

I'll still wait to hear back from some of the more experienced members of the community before I call out a specialist.

[DogP]

First, you need to unhook all the cables going to it, usually a power one, signal (sometimes two connectors), and a ground wire. Then to remove it from the cabinet, there's usually 4 bolts in the front, then just pull it out. Depending on the cabinet, sometimes it's a little different (sometimes pulls out the back with bolts on the bottom, sometimes attaches to another bracket which slides out the back, etc).

You really should discharge it to be safe, but as long as you don't mess with the anode, you'll be fine (if it's a k7000 chassis, which is very common in 25" monitors, those are supposed to discharge themselves, but I wouldn't trust my life to that :p ). Where do you live? Maybe there's someone around you that'd be willing to show you in exchange for the dead monitor (unless you have another plan for it).

DogP

[blissfulnoise]

That'd be a fair trade in my book. However, it's unlikely anyone here lives in my area. Colorado.

To describe the problem, the monitor itself fires up but has a heavy green/grey tint to everything making the image virtually impossible to see.

I've adjusted all the color levels to no use, the image is at it's best when it's described as above.

[ClubNinja]

To describe the problem, the monitor itself fires up but has a heavy green/grey tint to everything making the image virtually impossible to see.

That's exactly the problem I have with the monitor in my 19" MVS 2 Slot cab. I've been meaning to do a cap kit on it (which I was hoping would remedy the issue), but maybe there's something else going on, since they're such identical issues.

[ghostangelofcky]

If your in the denver/littleton area there's a really cool guy that does arcade cabs called Mr game, he's in the book. ;)

[blissfulnoise]

I'm a bit north of that, I've got a contact in Denver now who did some work on my friends machine. I'm probably going to call him. I've got 4 things I'd like for him to check out with me.

I've been to Al's Arcade and read his cap kit installation instructions, and while it definately looks like something I can do (getting the monitor out), i'll probably just pay so I can learn from an experienced professional before attempting to do it myself.

And I'll probably be doing a cap kit to repair my dead monitor (or attempted repair) and the monitor on my MvC cab. There is a off color spot in the center right of the monitor I can't adjust out.

I'll let everyone know what happens just for fun and for the benefit of anyone else who is looking to do similar tasks.

[Flack]

Drop Vespertillo a PM as well. I know he owns several arcade games and lives in the Denver area. I don't know whether he has done monitors or not but it's worth a shot!

[Peale]

If you're just pulling the monitor to swap it out, you should *not* discharge the tube. You should only do that when you're going to work on the unit.

[blissfulnoise]

If you're just pulling the monitor to swap it out, you should *not* discharge the tube. You should only do that when you're going to work on the unit.

Really? That's the first I'm hearing about this. Pretty much everything I've read said to discharge the monitor when you work with it at all.

To be honest, I wussed out, I'm going to have a professional come down on Monday to assist as I've actually got several other minor things on my machines I need serviced. Figured I could get them all knocked out at once.

Oh well, after going through the process once, I'll be better prepared for the next go around. A friend of mine is going to need to replace his monitor too, so this will be a good practice round.

[FABombjoy]

It only takes a few seconds to do, and it has no adverse effects on the monitor whatsoever.

As long as it's discharged properly with resistance. See the sci.electronics monitor FAQ for details (http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/monfaq.htm)

reference: "Proper way to discharge monitor tubes" section, http://www.flippers.com/vid-tips.html

[leonk]

There's a couple things that dictate discharge vs no discharge.

- Most 90's monitors and newer have circuitary that automatically discharge the monitor once they power down.

- If all you're doing is moving the monitor from one cab to another, I don't see why you'd need to discharge the unit. All you're doing is touching the chasis and the front of the tube. It's not like you're sticking your fingers under the anode (where most of the charge is located!)

So discharging it for movement I think is more dangerous than not.

You should find more info about this here:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,33362.0.html

[AlanD]

Anyone that pulls a monitor out a machine and doesn't disharge it is asking for trouble. You will be reaching on to the board to unhook the video cables. I know I would prefer doing that to a completely dead monitor. You will also be carrying a monitor that could contain power enough to knock the hell out of you. If your hand were to slip and you get a shock I guarantee you will drop the monitor so on top of the burn/shock you might end up paying to replace the monitor. Seems like a lot of risk for the 3-4 minutes you will save by not discharging it.

Also I agree with not needing resistance when discharging a monitor. Theoretically it may be best but I have changed literally thousands of monitors and have never had one damaged using the method stonic mentioned to discharge them. I would however recommend repeating the process a few times about 30 seconds apart until no snaps are heard and not rely on one good snap getting all the caps..

Trust me I speak purely from experience and I'll be happy to show you a burn on my finger that I got from a monitor a few years ago that will not heal. The reason it won't heal is that it acually cooked the skin in that area. Take the couple of minutes and do it safely.

[DogP]

I discharge the monitor no matter what because what am I going to do with the monitor when I pull it out? The tubes will hold a charge for a VERY long time, and I don't think I want to have a totally charged monitor sitting on a shelf waiting for the next unsuspecting guy (or myself) to go grab it later, expecting no charge, and get a huge zap. I mean obviously I'd discharge it again before I plan on doing anything with it to be sure, but it just doesn't make sense to store something in a dangerous state, and I definately wouldn't put it out to the curb for the garbage guys like that! If you plan on throwing the tube out, I've also heard of some people breaking the neck to destroy the vacuum, but I've never personally done this.

DogP

[DogP]

Yeah, I've never had to throw out a tube yet, but I've heard people breaking the necks, but I've also heard of glass shattering and everything from necks breaking, so I'd think I'd want to throw something like a wet towel over it... that, or maybe just break the nipple that they use when they seal it.

DogP

[FABombjoy]

I read a good idea once... might have come from the Apple Service Guide... Anyway, it was basically to take a box that's slightly smaller than the tube, place the tube inside the box, fold the flaps in and leave just the neck sticking out. Then, using some sort of rock or hammer, break the end of the neck.