TG-16 region mod or PC Engine or Coverter thing?

[Anthony1]

Just yesterday I sent off my TG-16 to have it internally modded for R.G.B. output. I already have a R.G.B. cable for my TG-16, but I can't use it if I connect my TG-16 to the CD attatchment. The docking station connects to the part where my normal R.G.B. cable connects. Therefore I need an internal R.G.B. mod, to be able to play the CD games in R.G.B. with this type of setup.

Anyways, the guy who does the internal R.G.B. mod can also do a Region mod for $40 more. I think he puts a switch on it, and if I want to play PC Engine games I flip the switch. If I play U.S. Hu cards, I don't flip the switch. Something like that.

Well anyways, I was planning on getting this mod done, because $40 is quite a bit cheaper than the $100 coverter thing. But the only problem is, if this particular Turbo system dies, then I'm stuck like chuck.

So I was thinking of maybe getting an actual PC Engine system, or one of the many variants of it. I would simply use that system when I want to play Japanese Hu cards. Not the most convient solution, but if anything happens to that other Turbo, I can still play my Japanese Hu cards.

But then I had a really interesting idea. I need to get a System 3.0 card for my TG-16 CD player attatchment, but they cost alot of dough. If I had the $40 internal region mod done, could I flip that switch and use the Japanese equivalent of the System 3.0 card? Because those are almost 1/4 the price of a U.S. System 3.0 card.

Does anybody have any idea if that would work?

Would that be the best way to go, considering I'm going to need to buy a System 3.0 card anyways? The money I would save in getting the Japanese System 3.0 card would basically pay for the internal region mod.

[dj898]

with money no objection I'd go for PC Engine Duo-R/RX and do the whole mod thing... but seriously doing int mod will be easier and you can get Duo-R/RX with the money save down the track. I believe getting JPN PC Engine mod'd to play both US/JPN is the way to go not the other way around...

I know it's not easy to find and when you do PC Engine tends to cost way more than Turbo-16... still in the long run that is the way to go...

I went with SuperGrafx and done complete mod inc. region and s-video plus SuperCD-ROM2 module I'm ready for entire PC Engine/Turbo catalogue...

just don't ask me how much I spent on the thing thou... :(

[InsaneDavid]

Ah, the age old question. First off see how much you can get a converter for, there are about four different models but they all work pretty much the same - it goes into the HuCARD slot and has a socket for the PCEngine games on the back side. Most likely a converter card will run you about the same amount as that internal conversion you're getting done, while the conversion is cleaner the card can be removed if they system dies.

Don't get a Duo-R or Duo-RX, you'll simply pay way too much as they've gone up in value over the past couple years. I'd recommend you pick up a US TurboDuo for about $100 or so which will give you an integrated Super System 3.0 card, internal memory, and A/V out. It will also play all your US HuCARDs as well as any format and region of TG16 / PCEngine CD games. The TurboDuo is pretty damn robust. The Duo-R's and Duo-RX units cost a lot more since there were at lot less manufactured, even though they're pretty much the same as a Japanese PCEngine Duo.

Then buy a Japanese PCEngine. I see the PCEngine CORE II systems on eBay every now and then for around $40. Pull out this baby whenever you want to play PCEngine HuCARDS.

So that would be about $140 or so, less than a Duo-R in good condition would be (also keep in mind nearly every Duo-R you'll come across will be overseas so it'll be about $30-$40 via EMS to ship). Of course you can get your mods done to your TG-16, buy a TurboDuo, buy a PCEngine, and then sell off your TG-16 and probably break even or have a little extra money in your pocket. :)

[Anthony1]

Ah, the age old question. First off see how much you can get a converter for, there are about four different models but they all work pretty much the same - it goes into the HuCARD slot and has a socket for the PCEngine games on the back side. Most likely a converter card will run you about the same amount as that internal conversion you're getting done, while the conversion is cleaner the card can be removed if they system dies.

Don't get a Duo-R or Duo-RX, you'll simply pay way too much as they've gone up in value over the past couple years. I'd recommend you pick up a US TurboDuo for about $100 or so which will give you an integrated Super System 3.0 card, internal memory, and A/V out. It will also play all your US HuCARDs as well as any format and region of TG16 / PCEngine CD games. The TurboDuo is pretty damn robust. The Duo-R's and Duo-RX units cost a lot more since there were at lot less manufactured, even though they're pretty much the same as a Japanese PCEngine Duo.

Then buy a Japanese PCEngine. I see the PCEngine CORE II systems on eBay every now and then for around $40. Pull out this baby whenever you want to play PCEngine HuCARDS.

So that would be about $140 or so, less than a Duo-R in good condition would be (also keep in mind nearly every Duo-R you'll come across will be overseas so it'll be about $30-$40 via EMS to ship). Of course you can get your mods done to your TG-16, buy a TurboDuo, buy a PCEngine, and then sell off your TG-16 and probably break even or have a little extra money in your pocket. :)


I have to stick with the TG-16 CD attatchment because supposedly, it's the most CD-R friendly. About a year ago I decided that I'm a gamer and not a collector and that I don't need to be spending $60 on every import game that comes along. So I said F it, and went to CD-R's for the old school systems.

Yes, I know it's illegal and highly immoral, but damn, I was in the freaking poor house, so tough teets.

From what I've heard, the Duo's can be very finicky regarding CD-R's. Some will play most CD-R's, some wont play any CD-R's. But supposedly the CD attatchment for the TG-16 seems to work well with CD-R's.


The internal region mod I believe was an additional $40 on top of the R.G.B. mod that I was having done. Most converters go for around $100. So $40 isn't a bad deal at all. Especially if I got my hands on a Arcade Card Pro. If I can use a Arcade Card Pro in my region modded TG-16 with the CD attatchment to play Super CD rom and Arcade CD games, then it's all gravy.

Most System 3.0 cards go for around $75 or more on Ebizzle. I can get an Arcade Card Pro for about $60. So I save a little and it does the Arcade games too. Sure I know that there are only a few games that actually use it, and that Sapphire is way overrated, but still, it would be kinda cool to be able to play just about everything short of the SuperGrafx Hu cards.

[dj898]

Turbo Duo and PC Engine Duo are pretty much the same since Turbo Duo is based on PC Engine Duo. PC Engine Duo-R/RX were redesigned version of PC Engine Duo and internally they are different and did not suffer from infamous audio drop out due to overheating issue with some Duo.

Sure Duo-R/RX will cost much more than Duo but in the long run I think that's the money well spent. Besides you should be able to pick one up for around $150 if you look hard enough and do bit of finger work... I picked up my virtually brand new PC Engine Duo-RX box set for around $147 thanks to my relative in Japan...

For the Hucard converter I was told Kisado is the only one worth to consider although it will run you at minimum $150+ or more... I had the other two types - diver and purple thingy - and they weren't that reliable...

Also to cover yourself to play every PC Engine/Turbo titles except SugerGrafx you need Arcade Card and with SuperCD-ROM module or Duo you only need cheaper Arcade Card Duo... Otherwise you will have to fork out for more expensive Arcade Card Pro...


My recommendation would be Duo - preferably Duo-R/RX - with Arcade Card Duo and region mod plus S-video or R_G_B. This will let you play entire catalogues except handful of SuperGrafx titles...

[InsaneDavid]

I have to stick with the TG-16 CD attatchment because supposedly, it's the most CD-R friendly. About a year ago I decided that I'm a gamer and not a collector and that I don't need to be spending $60 on every import game that comes along. So I said F it, and went to CD-R's for the old school systems.

Yes, I know it's illegal and highly immoral, but damn, I was in the freaking poor house, so tough teets.

From what I've heard, the Duo's can be very finicky regarding CD-R's. Some will play most CD-R's, some wont play any CD-R's. But supposedly the CD attatchment for the TG-16 seems to work well with CD-R's.

Yup, all very true. Most TurboDuos hate CD-R's. I agree that some Duo games are far too expensive but CD-R duplicates of Duo games are also important since sealed copies of games like Dracula-X sell in upwards of $100 - and THAT's a game that shouldn't be opened if sealed. My Duo has never read CD-R's properly, it always has problems with the audio tracks (as most Duo's do with CD-R duplicates). However the same discs run fine in a TG-16 CD unit.

Then again you could save yourself the trouble of physical consoles and use MagicEngine for like $16 - http://www.magicengine.com I always had good luck with MagicEngine until they decided the new version would require full OpenGL support (I run emus on older systems) and then there was a big incident at their forums and.. well, it's a long story. The emulator is great though! :D


Sure Duo-R/RX will cost much more than Duo but in the long run I think that's the money well spent. Besides you should be able to pick one up for around $150 if you look hard enough and do bit of finger work... I picked up my virtually brand new PC Engine Duo-RX box set for around $147 thanks to my relative in Japan...

It is money well spent if you're a collector and if you have someone overseas to get one for you it's even better. But Anthony1 proclaimed that he's not a collector so it's probably not worth the extra work and money. I see Duo-R's from time to time in the Bay Area but usually they're tagged around $200.

I've had one of the "diving board" converters and it worked fairly well after I modified it to seat better. Still there were problems, as you said.

[Anthony1]

Magic Engine is cool for playing the really expensive Hu cards that I won't ever be able to afford, but I prefer to play my systems in R.G.B. on a R.G.B monitor.

I also prefer to hold the real controller in my hand, and know that I'm playing the real system.


But no dissrespect to emulators. I actually decided that I could live with playing NES games off emulators exclusively. I got tired of the whole blinking light syndrome, and I got rid of my physical NES and all my NES stuff. If I want to play NES, I typically will play it on my XBOX. There are settings on the NES emulator on the XBOX that allow you to play it in 720p or 1080i with Xbox Tri Linear Filtering and SuperScale2x video mode applied. The resulting picture is absolutely outstanding, from a NES standpoint, anyways.

Now only if somebody could get a real NES controller to work on an XBOX.

If NES could output RGB, then I would never have gone to an emulator, but it can't and I get tired of dealing with all the problems associated with NES systems that don't like to work. I've put in new connectors and things work fine for awhile, and then eventually you get the blinking red light again.

[theoakwoody]

Anthony1,

I love how much of a self-proclaimed graphic whore you are. I kinda feel the same way as you. I want the best sound, picture, hardware, blah blah blah but when it comes down to it I don't care about collecting. Mint, unopened, all maps included...just give me the fucking game so I can play.

[klausien]

The CD ROM in the Duo is faster than the one in the TG 16 CD unit. The unit is also more compact. I would go with the Duo. Mine worked fine with 90% of the CDRs I have encountered. This is no reason not to get it anyway.

I have a CoreGrafx for imports, but tend to play them more on Magic Engine since it isn't set up. Would never part with it though. Such a cool little console.

I would recommend a converter. It is the expensive route at the outset, but you can play everything on anything. Still kick myself for dispensing with a Kisado and Arcade Card Duo back in college. A converter also allows you to play JPN HuCards on the Express. A US system with a converter is the best way to go. The HuCard mod only works on US systems anyway, and it is not the easiest mod in the world. It's no PS2 mod chip, but it requires a lot of patience and soldering.

[rhiohki]

I know this is a side question, but can a Core-Grafx or SuperGrafx with a Super CD-Rom 2 attachment be modded for R.G.B? If so, who can I contact for that? Is your source D-lite by the way?

[Anthony1]

Anthony1,

I love how much of a self-proclaimed graphic whore you are. I kinda feel the same way as you. I want the best sound, picture, hardware, blah blah blah but when it comes down to it I don't care about collecting. Mint, unopened, all maps included...just give me the fucking game so I can play.


Word Skippy!

[Anthony1]

The CD ROM in the Duo is faster than the one in the TG 16 CD unit. The unit is also more compact. I would go with the Duo. Mine worked fine with 90% of the CDRs I have encountered. This is no reason not to get it anyway.

I have a CoreGrafx for imports, but tend to play them more on Magic Engine since it isn't set up. Would never part with it though. Such a cool little console.

I would recommend a converter. It is the expensive route at the outset, but you can play everything on anything. Still kick myself for dispensing with a Kisado and Arcade Card Duo back in college. A converter also allows you to play JPN HuCards on the Express. A US system with a converter is the best way to go. The HuCard mod only works on US systems anyway, and it is not the easiest mod in the world. It's no PS2 mod chip, but it requires a lot of patience and soldering.



The Duo's cd-rom drive is definitely faster, and it's nice that the Super System 3.0 card is built in, but I've heard from people who have Duo's who can't play any CD-R's on their unit period. So it appears that there are some Duo's that play "most" CD-R's , and there are som Duo's that don't play hardly any CD-R's. Considering how much these things cost, it's not like I can afford to buy 5 different Duo's to find out which one plays CD-R's without major issues.

The Hu Card mod is I think $40, in addition to the RGB mod that I'm having done, so I think for the amount of money it's worth it to do it. What sucks is that I had a converter back in the day. Sold it for like $20 or so. But you know what? I don't like how the converter sticks so damn far out of the TG-16 Hu card slot. It sticks out there quite a bit, and then the hu card that you put in it sticks out as well. Which is not good for me, considering I have little kids and a clumsy dog. Of course I don't plan on having my TG-16 sitting around on the ground where my little kids or clumsy dog can get to it, but you never know.

[Tron 2.0]

Region mod or nothing just my 2 cents.