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Thread: Replacing a Sega Nomad's Voltage Regulator.

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    Default Please someone help me

    I wonder how you put MC78M05BDTRKG in sega nomad.
    Please I ask that you put a picture or photograph of what he did.
    I need this information to bring my Sega Nomad for life.
    (I am brazilian)

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    Default Help

    Jb143, you're awesome, my sega nomad is with this problem.
    You must have had a lot of work to find and fix the defect.
    I ask you please help because I am not able to understand how to weld the voltage regulator (MC78M05BDTRKG or even another)
    I will be waiting for your help.

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    I just wanted to say a massive thanks to jb143 for all the info posted in this thread . Thanks to you my Nomad is now working again! I made a quick video to show how I repaired mine so hopefully others can use it to help fix their own. Details about parts etc are in the video description.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDo3o2no770

    Thanks again, jb143!

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    Great video! This is an awesome piece of info to have out there.

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    Hey, thanks for putting together that great video. I tried to take a picture way back then but my old camera was horrible at close up shots. Your video is way better than my blurry pictures ever could be.
    "Game programmers are generally lazy individuals. That's right. It's true. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Since the dawn of computer games, game programmers have looked for shortcuts to coolness." Kurt Arnlund - Game programmer for Activision, Accolade...

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    Quote Originally Posted by jb143 View Post
    I finally got around to replacing the regulator and it works great now. I've had several people ask me about this so I figured I'd post what I did. It was pretty simple to do and took me about 15 minutes to do. Please ask any questions becasue I'm sure some of this will need cleared up a bit.

    I could never find an exact replacement so I used part number MC78M05BDTRKG - 68cents from digikey.com. I mainly used this becasue it's what I had access to and it had a higher current rating than others. It's a "D-PAK" package so it's quite a bit bigger than the original regulator making it easier to work with but it's still an SMT part making is small enough to fit in there. I'm pretty sure any +5V linear regulator will work though.

    The first step was removing the old regulator. I used a hot air gun but I realise most peole won't have access to surface mount rework equipment so heating with a soldering iron and prying the chip off will probally work just as well. Then clean the pads up as much as possible making sure that there's no solder shorting them out.

    As far as clearance goes the only thing you need to worry about is the plastic circle on the other half on the Nomad. I had to relocate my regulator becasue I couldn't get it closed back up the first time.

    I then soldered a wire to each of the legs of the regulator. One was Vin the other is +5V out. These should be marked on your regulators datasheet. +5Vout n the board is the larger pad where the regulator used to be, so the other end of that wire should be soldered there. For Vin I soldered it to the point where +V comes off the power jack.

    To help dissapate heat I decided to solder the regulators ground tab right to the circuit boards ground plane. To do this I sanded away a small square of the boards coating near the edge of the board making sure the plastic circle I mentioned above would clear it. This left a square of exposed copper roughly the same size as the regulators ground tab. Be sure to clean off the dust made from sanding.

    Since the ground plane will dissapate heat, you'll probally need to hold your iron on the copper pad you just made for qute a while in order to heat it up. Once it's hot enough, add a layer of solder and then place the regulator down. Again, it's probally going to take a bit before the solder takes.

    If all goes well you should now once again be able to enjoy handheld Genesis goodness.
    I am hoping—as I know this is a very old post now—I can get some help on my nomad.

    After a screen mod like found on nobitleftbehind, my regulator stopped working. I replaced it for a NTE 960 and when the replacement screens driver board is unplugged I get 5v out of the regulator.

    This is where things get strange. When I plug in the lcd driver board, the voltage coming out of the regulator dips below 2v and the low batt light shines as if to mock me.

    I'm confused, want to save my nomad, and hope someone out there can offer some wisdom.

    Thanks in advance.
    Last edited by that1crzywhtguy; 07-30-2015 at 01:41 AM. Reason: Update

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    Can you post a link to the replacement parts you used? The lcd driver may be wired incorrectly or faulty, if you turn on the nomad without the driver board can you hear the game playing?

    A photo of your setup would help too
    Last edited by phreak97; 07-30-2015 at 08:35 AM. Reason: Update

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    Quote Originally Posted by phreak97 View Post
    Can you post a link to the replacement parts you used? The lcd driver may be wired incorrectly or faulty, if you turn on the nomad without the driver board can you hear the game playing?

    A photo of your setup would help too
    Regulator: http://www.alliedelec.com/nte-electr...e960/70215297/


    Screen found here: https://nobitleftbehind.wordpress.com/store/ and is just like this: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...572849&alt=web

    I have had the speakers unplugged while I've been testing. When I get home tonight I will try to power up with the driver unplugged and see if I hear audio.

    I am including some pictures as well. Thanks for the help.


    https://app.box.com/s/yiytjs1mvij2ay8vv59j8nvw9olbpfjo

    https://app.box.com/s/206bwr9t2fvnu9ah9fdwgc26qvfxk9hx

    https://app.box.com/s/2rlak303l1v5pzvyimrp6v6ihirjiu78

    https://app.box.com/s/goqxvbsmjcl4655uc2we2kvc40gfxwut

    Thanks!
    Last edited by that1crzywhtguy; 07-30-2015 at 04:38 PM.

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    Alright, what's the red jumper wire on the driver board doing?
    I think the driver board is expecting 12vdc, you might need to rework it a bit to accept 5v instead.

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    Quote Originally Posted by phreak97 View Post
    Alright, what's the red jumper wire on the driver board doing?
    I think the driver board is expecting 12vdc, you might need to rework it a bit to accept 5v instead.
    The red jumper on the driver board addresses just that, it is skipping the 12v to 5v dc-dc converter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by phreak97 View Post
    if you turn on the nomad without the driver board can you hear the game playing?
    Update, with the driver board unplugged I can hear the game audio. So that is certainly a good sign that the system is not toast...

    Maybe the lcd or driver board is toast, certainly possible...

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    What's going on with that voltage regulator?
    The 7805 looking one? I only see 2 wires going to it

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    The centre pin is soldered to ground on the pcb.

    Sounds like theres a problem with the driver board for sure. Triple check the dc-dc bypass

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    Quote Originally Posted by phreak97 View Post
    The centre pin is soldered to ground on the pcb.

    Sounds like theres a problem with the driver board for sure. Triple check the dc-dc bypass
    I think that jumper was done poorly maybe, (I purchased it pre jumpered) as when I desoldered it and resoldered it, now the system works (I can hear the speaker playing game audio and the board is receiving ~5V) with the driver board still plugged in. The screen still does not function however. I'm thinking maybe something shorted out, which is a little surprising since it did work initially, however it certainly isn't working now.

    Another thing that I find peculiar, is that when I plug the av out through a genesis 2 RF cable and switch the nomad on, the TV goes black. No more white fuzz but also no game sound or display, also I still hear the nomad speaker playing audio. This make any sense?

    Thanks

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    I noticed the track on the pcb going to the composite video output has been cut, did you do that intentionally?

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    Quote Originally Posted by phreak97 View Post
    I noticed the track on the pcb going to the composite video output has been cut, did you do that intentionally?
    alas, I did not... I originally had the composite out wire soldered there and the pad got pulled off... I saw others who had done this mod had their's soldered to the pin right above it, so I attached mine there. I didn't think it would effect the nomad's ability to send an AV signal out of that port though, am I wrong? I get no audio or video out of that port.
    Last edited by that1crzywhtguy; 07-31-2015 at 01:34 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by phreak97 View Post
    The centre pin is soldered to ground on the pcb.
    Kinda my point, looks like you have input and ground and that's it. Or is that side output, either way ground and only one other connection

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    Quote Originally Posted by that1crzywhtguy View Post
    alas, I did not... I originally had the composite out wire soldered there and the pad got pulled off... I saw others who had done this mod had their's soldered to the pin right above it, so I attached mine there. I didn't think it would effect the nomad's ability to send an AV signal out of that port though, am I wrong? I get no audio or video out of that port.
    Yeah that broken trace takes video to the av connector, you'll have to install a tiny jumper wire from the through-hole to the pin where you have the wire attached.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Niku-Sama View Post
    Kinda my point, looks like you have input and ground and that's it. Or is that side output, either way ground and only one other connection
    Its just a bad photo angle, it's connected with two green wires. If it was wrong there'd be no sound either. We've solved the power issue anyway, it's just missing video now

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    Quote Originally Posted by phreak97 View Post
    Yeah that broken trace takes video to the av connector, you'll have to install a tiny jumper wire from the through-hole to the pin where you have the wire attached.
    Darn I was worried about that. Which through hole? I'm including a close-up. Do I solder a jumper from the little hole between the text TP244 and TP241 to the pin?

    Thanks

    https://app.box.com/s/p5prucd1ylp51kr6izf6cbluqnlxtrxw

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