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Thread: RetroDuo NES/SNES Clone Official Thread. Castlevania III, StarFox WORK, SMRPG WARNING

     
  1. #441
    Apple (Level 5) Arkhan's Avatar
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    Opened the beast up, and was like "man. these chips have gunk on the tops, and random white smears"

    anyway, I took some pictures. Pardon 1) The lack of photography skills and 2) The amount of them.






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    ServBot (Level 11) MarioMania's Avatar
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    You know someone make a Retro Duo/FC Twin NES Controllers for NES games

    What is the Button sheme for the SNES Retro Duo Pad?? Is it like the SNES Pad ??

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    Apple (Level 5) Arkhan's Avatar
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    yes its an SNES pad.

    same connector and all.

    I just use real SNES pads on it instead of the bullshitty pack-in ones that dont even work.
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    Cherry (Level 1)
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    Arkhan, you have a newer FC Twin than mine. My FC Twin has a solder spot right at the bottom corner of the Super NES board next to controller port 2 where a Super NES lockout chip can be soldered onto the system(that solder spot is also on the oldest FC Twins that have no Yobo branding). It seems as if the Super NES audio amplifier was moved to that location, by the looks of it, and the NES board appears to have less resistors as a result. If possible, remove the boards from the casing and take a picture of the underside of every board(especially the power/AV board), as well as, if possible, everything under the heatsink on the power/AV board.
    Last edited by Ace; 01-27-2010 at 05:16 PM.

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  7. #445
    ServBot (Level 11) MarioMania's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkhan View Post
    yes its an SNES pad.

    same connector and all.

    I just use real SNES pads on it instead of the bullshitty pack-in ones that dont even work.
    I mean modding a NES Pad to work on a Retro Duo/FC Twin

    I know some SNES games will work with the NES pad..

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    Insert Coin (Level 0) Bub_and_Bob's Avatar
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    For those who have gotten the PowerPak to work, what brand(s) of CF cards are you using?

    I have a silver and black RD and a top-loading NES. The CF card appears to be a generic one (SimpleTech). The PowerPak works great in the top loader, but every time I try it in the RD, I get 'card reading error'.

    Given that the RD works and that others seem to have gotten the PP to work on it, I'm guessing my issue is the type of CF. Would just like to find out what works for others rather than buying umpteen ones off of eBay and hoping to get lucky.

    Thanks!

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    Insert Coin (Level 0) Bub_and_Bob's Avatar
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    To add to the compatability list. All without notes worked perfectly.

    Tengen Games
    - Gauntlet
    - Klax
    - RBI Baseball
    - Rolling Thunder (same issues as everyone else)

    NoA Games
    - Baseball Stars
    - Baseball Stars 2
    - Bionic Commando
    - Bubble Bobble
    - Bubble Bobble 2
    - Castevania 3 (major sound issues)
    - Caveman Games
    - Clash at Demonhead
    - Deadly Towers
    - Defender
    - Donkey Kong Classics
    - Dr. Mario
    - Dragon Spirit
    - Elevator Action
    - Final Fantasy
    - Galaga
    - Gauntlet 2
    - Ghosts & Goblins
    - Ice Hockey
    - Kid Icarius
    - Kid Niki
    - King's Knight
    - Kirby's Adventure
    - Kung Fu
    - Little League World Series
    - Metal Gear
    - Metroid
    - Off Road
    - Power Blade
    - Pro Wrestling
    - Punchout
    - Rampart
    - RC Pro Am
    - Roadblasters
    - Rygar
    - Stinger
    - Strider (does not work)
    - Super Mario Bros 2 (did not work)
    - Super Mario Bros 3 (sound issues)
    - Super Techmo Bowl
    - Tetris
    - The Goonies
    - TMNT Manhattan Project
    - TMNT Tournament Fighters
    - Vice Project
    - Xexyl
    - Yoshi's Cookie
    - Zelda (sound seems off at times)
    - Zen

    I also have 7 Famicom games that I will test once I can get the converter to fit. Right now, it seems like the pins are off and I don't want to force it in. It works perfectly in the top loader and is one of the 1/2 height converters.

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    Cherry (Level 1)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bub_and_Bob View Post
    - Super Mario Bros 2 (did not work)
    That's odd. It works perfectly fine on my RetroDuo(white/blue model) and every other Famiclone I own(GN Twin, FC Twin, Retro Entertainment System).

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  13. #449
    ServBot (Level 11) MarioMania's Avatar
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    what was the name of the 3 in 1 system Gen/SNES/NES

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    Insert Coin (Level 0) Troglodyte's Avatar
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    Exclamation

    Quote Originally Posted by MarioMania View Post
    what was the name of the 3 in 1 system Gen/SNES/NES
    The FC3 Plus (from Yobo).

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    ServBot (Level 11) MarioMania's Avatar
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    I don't see then on ebay..

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    you know what's get me..I asked about the FC light gun, It saying it's only works on th FC Twin..

    Does it work on the Retro Duo?????

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    Default Anyone there?

    I was just wondering if there were any life left in this thread?
    Like for instance;
    Troglodyte, did you find out anything about checking the version of Super Mario RPG? Cuz if you did, that would be GREAT! However if what you said about changing carts fast is true, that would also be great? But the way I understood it, you only had one copy of SMRPG and that one worked on the RD? So, how is it a valid test? Sorry if i misunderstood something.

    Any way, I purchased a RetroDuo a few months back. Been mostly playing NTSC games, haven't found a game that doesnt play (however only tried about 25...:P). But when it comes to PAL SNES games I'm S*IT out of luck...I recently found a retro game shop on my travels, in europe, so the games where PAL. And I though, "doesn't matter, the Retro Duo plays lots of PAL games!". However, like I said, outta luck...NONE of the SNES PAL games I tried worked. I got the shop owner to join me in my quest for a working title...but no. Got the message "This game is not designed for your.....", or a blank screen. Then we tried the games through a big black box with a floppy disc, can't remember the name, but it had a floppy to copy roms. And it worked, with some...not the Terranigma copy he had, which was the sole reason I brought the RetroDuo to the shop.

    Now, I'm left wondering if there is a mod out there I could use to play PAL games without this big black floppy disc on top of my RetroDuo? It was expensive!

    Oh, almost forgot...the NES part workes like a f*cking charm with PAL (or Europan version) games he had.

    Thank you for your time, sorry for the long post...however it annoyes me...

  20. #454
    Cherry (Level 1)
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    What you'd need would be a 50Hz/60Hz switch on the Super NES side. It's a very simple modification. Let me first see your RetroDuo's motherboard and I'll be able to show you what needs to be done.

    The reason why PAL games give a "This game is not designed for your Super NES" error is because they can detect the video output of whatever hardware they're being used on. They will only run on a Super NES or Super NES clone that runs at 50Hz(PAL frequency). Same goes for some NTSC games from North America or Japan: some will give the same error if they run on a PAL Super NES or Super NES clone. The RetroDuo is an NTSC machine(60Hz), so in order for PAL games to work correctly on the Super NES side(not sure how to do so on the NES side), you need to set the RetroDuo to output in PAL.

    But there are also games that can detect the presence of a lockout chip, and I believe Terranigma has said check. If the game can't communicate with a lockout chip, it will not boot. I know you can add a lockout chip to Revision 2 FC Twins(the first version to have the Yobo branding; Revision 3 FC Twins have a different Super NES board and worse NES sound) as there's a solder spot on the Super NES board where you can solder a lockout chip. There's no such solder spot on the RetroDuo, so adding a lockout chip will be quite difficult. You won't be able to play games that absolutely require the presence of a lockout chip, but with a 50Hz/60Hz switch, you should be able to play the vast majority of PAL and NTSC Super NES games.

    And a question for you: does your RetroDuo have static on the Super NES side's video output? For some reason, my RetroDuo, whenever I use the Super NES side, has 2 thick strips of static that scroll down the screen, and they are REALLY distracting. The worst part is that I can't seem to get rid of them no matter what I do. What I would like to know is if the problem depends on the paint jobs, on the revision of the RetroDuo, a universal problem on the RetroDuo, or just my console that has something bad in the video circuit. What color is your RetroDuo, and do you get those 2 strips of static scrolling down the screen when using the Super NES side(it doesn't matter whether it's used in Composite or S-Video, the static is always there).
    Last edited by Ace; 04-30-2010 at 11:39 PM.

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    First of all, thank you for your response, I was worried this thread was dead...I'll get right on that picture. I don't have the time or equipment to disassemble the RD right now.

    I've seen that 50/60 hz mod mentioned but I thought it was to get the games to play in color on an PAL TV, looks like I was mistaken.

    About your question, my SNES works 95% perfect. It's not perfect, but I didn't expect that either when I got it. But like I said the SNES is great, and I have not seen any of the lines you described. I just played through SMW and it was like I was a kid again, but with those lines I don't think I could have enjoyed it as much. In other words, I feel your pain...
    Now, I should say that I'm playing on an "old" PAL CRT TV, it has S-video in and either it works like a coverter for the signal or it is compatible with both signals. If I use the SCART I get the famous black and white gaming experience.

    My problem with the RD is the NES side of it, the sound. And I know that there is a fix for this in this thread, but I have not tried it. As it is SNES i usually play and the sound is not horrible either, maybe 70% of the original quality.

    About Terranigma, I have noted that it does not work on the RD, but I figured I could give it a shot as it looks like all RDs are different...
    Btw, do you know if the Terranigma repro cart works on the RD? I will soon find out if you don't cause I ordered it a couple of days ago. If you would like, I could post the games that I have, they all work on the RD.

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    Sorry, forgot to tell you that I have the white and blue version.

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    I'm using my RetroDuo on an NTSC TV via both Composite and S-Video, and those strips of static are VERY noticeable, especially on bright colors. It's worse than my FC Twin, which has no static whatsoever. I'm wondering if the video encoder is maybe to blame. The encoder is a Samsung KA2198BD, and I've had a horrible experience with Samsung video encoders. They always gave me crap. Case and point - most Genesis/MegaDrive 2s in North America contain a Samsung KA2195D video encoder, which delivers absolutely ROTTEN video output: blurred, major pixelation, and worst of all, it suffers from the Top-Loader NES' vertical bar noise. Not a single Genesis 2 I got with a Samsung encoder had good video; they all sucked. The same goes with the RetroDuo vs. the FC Twin. The FC Twin makes use of a Sony CXA1645 video encoder, and I get no static strips on the Super NES side's video output. The RetroDuo, on the other hand, uses the KA2198BD, and while the picture quality itself is about the same(colors are a little less saturated on the RetroDuo), there are those 2 stupid strips of static that keep bothering me. I think it's time for a video encoder swap - since I have a fair bit of spare Genesis 2s I have for parts, I can try to swap out the KA2198BD for a CXA1645 in said Genesis and see what happens.

    As for the sound, I will take a picture of my RetroDuo's NES board to show you what needs to be added to the NES sound circuit to fix up the heavily distorted audio. There are 2 components RetroBit omitted from the NES sound circuit. Add those, and the sound will be clean.

    And in order to use SCART RGB on the RetroDuo, you to add an RGB amplifier inside the system, then add a plug for a SCART cable(use a MegaDrive or MegaDrive II multi-A/V out plug for the RGB output, as there's no space to put a SCART connector in the RetroDuo).

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    Ladd Spencer (Level 17) Captain Wrong's Avatar
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    The NES side of mine outputs s-video in black and white. This is the second unit I've had and they've both done it. (Although the SNES side didn't work at all on the first one.) if i have both the S-video and composite plugged in, it lloks fine. Just the composite and it looks dark and dull. I'm assuming this isn't normal, but I fund it weird that two in a row had this problem. Other than that, I'm pretty satisfied.
    Last edited by Captain Wrong; 07-02-2010 at 09:48 AM.

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    Insert Coin (Level 0) ZombieRyushu's Avatar
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    How does compatibility of the Retron 3 stack up against the Retro Duo? Is the Retro Duo still king of the clone hill?

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    RetroDuo is still the way to go. It's got a better NOAC than the RetroN3. The RetroDuo's got the accurate(despite heavily distorted sound that can be fixed) NOAC and is still one of, if not THE ONLY modern-day Famiclone that will work with problem games like Castlevania III and Rad Racer II, just to name a few. Just one thing: trash the power supply it comes with and get yourself another 5V power supply that's got center positive polarity and can output AT LEAST 600mA. I recently discovered that the reason why the RetroDuo has a tendency to display static interference on the Super NES side in both Composite and S-Video, as well as display static interference when playing NES games in S-Video, is because RetroBit's power supply is s***. I tried to use it on one of the very early Namco Plug and Play made by Jakks Pacific, the one made in 2003 to be more precise, while I was figuring out how to mod the thing to work with a power supply rather than batteries, and I got the exact same static interference on the Plug and Play just like on the RetroDuo, but to a MUCH worse extent, so there's some filtering going on in the RetroDuo, but it's clearly not enough. So it looks like we've got 2 options to fix this problem:

    1) Replace RetroBit's 5V power supply with a different 5V power supply
    2) Modify the system to work off a 9V to 12V power supply by adding a 7805 voltage regulator(I think I'll do this with my RetroDuo)
    3) *possibly* replace a capacitor on the 5V input with a much stronger capacitor of about 1000uF or so, maybe even bigger. I believe RetroBit uses a 220uF capacitor to try and clean up the 5V signal, but it's too weak. I had similar problems with my Jakks Pacific Plug and Play with no capacitors on the power supply input(this was before I decided to make it run off a 10V power supply using a 7805 to bring down the voltage) where I'd get thick white horizontal lines that scroll down the screen in the exact same fashion as the RetroDuo's static strips. Using a 470uF capacitor made the lines less visible on the Plug and Play, but they were still there, so theoretically speaking, it COULD very well work the same way on the RetroDuo.

    I'll report back once I go ahead and either change my RetroDuo's power supply, add in a 7805 or change the capacitor on the power input.
    Last edited by Ace; 08-05-2010 at 11:32 PM.

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