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Thread: Famicom + AV Mod = vertical lines?

  1. #21
    Peach (Level 3) aclbandit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitch View Post
    That's not shielded. It should have a wire braid inside the outer plastic. You would also need to connect both ends of the shield to ground. That will probably fix your issue.

    Mitch
    Aha, I'll check it out. Thanks again.

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    Peach (Level 3) aclbandit's Avatar
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    I just came to the realization that this might be my VCR or Composite switch causing the lines, as they were there on the VCR's blue screen of "nothing turned on now." Which would explain why nothing fixed it.

    The inability to test it elsewhere comes in the fact that the transistor seems to be so strong that the video "explodes" if plugged straight into the TV or Composite switch.

    Suggestions?

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    Peach (Level 3) aclbandit's Avatar
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    By way of an update, I discovered that the vertical lines are ONLY present on my famicom and my Channel F; otherwise, they are not. This indicates that it's simply something up inside old consoles that makes it do that nonsense.

    Apparently, the US toploader has the same exact problem. I guess I'll just live with it, since my only other option is to pick up one of the third-party Famicoms that don't have the 2nd player microphone with which to yell at bunnies in Zelda. And I like yelling at bunnies.

  4. #24
    Strawberry (Level 2)
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    i wanted to see how this story ended.
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  5. #25
    Insert Coin (Level 0) JBK Games's Avatar
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    Talking Anyone else tried a non-solder fix for the vertical lines issue?

    I have read a number of posts which say the only way to fix or minimize the vertical line problem on Famicom top loaders is to do some heavy duty board cutting, soldering, jumper rerouting, etcetera.

    I just wanted to share that I found a simple way to reduce the lines. I went in and cleaned up the board with a little alcohol and an air gun, then I used this overcoat acrylic conformal coating pen to reduce the noise going on. Covered parts of the board where it is believed to be the problem.

    This stuff can also be removed really easy with a Q tip and some alcohol, or with a plastic shortened dull toothpick, if you decide you want to remove it. It also protects the board from moisture, corrosion, arcing, static discharge, etc.

    Also I messed with the RF mod unit video inductor coil which seemed to improve the image a bit. Right now it's hooked up and drying for a minute, but the lines seem to be fading even more as the conformal coating drys and evens out.

    All dried out now, check out the difference with before and after photos as attachments below.


    Anyway, if anyone has any success with this method or any cautions against it, lemme know. I'm a long time vintage retro gamer, and collector, but just getting into the forums.
    Last edited by JBK Games; 07-22-2010 at 01:20 AM. Reason: add photos

  6. #26
    Pac-Man (Level 10) FABombjoy's Avatar
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    You could also use the lineless mod for toploaders. I've used it and the image is perfect.

  7. #27
    Pac-Man (Level 10) The Manimal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    You could also use the lineless mod for toploaders. I've used it and the image is perfect.
    When did this fix come about? I remember no solution being out there for a long time - people trying to shield various things to no success. I was going to do an A/V mod for the top loader but figured it would be a waste of time if the lines were still there.


    Is there anyone out there that does this mod for a fee?

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    Pac-Man (Level 10) FABombjoy's Avatar
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    I just reread my reply and it might be a tad misleading.

    I've used the lineless mod on toploader NES units. Since both the Famicom & toploader exhibit the same symptoms with that style of mod, I have to believe the same (very simple) circuit could be used in the Famicom with good results.

    The lineless mod has been described here before, and I think the original design was posted on nesdev.

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