Resistor Value on Lolo cart?
Im trying to figure out the value of the two resistors on my lolo cart for nes. Everywhere ive looked gives 20 different readings. It has A big brown band, then black orange silver then brown. Im hoping to replace these becasue I read somewhere that when they blow they can cause the graphics issue im having. I dont want to hear any clean your pins or cart comments, all have been done extensively and even on new 72 pin. Anyone with a lolo cart that can read these please post em or thoughts.
brown, black, orange, silver, brown is 1.03 Ohm 1% tolerance. That's a pretty specific value if you ask me. Does it look bad?
"Game programmers are generally lazy individuals. That's right. It's true. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Since the dawn of computer games, game programmers have looked for shortcuts to coolness." Kurt Arnlund - Game programmer for Activision, Accolade...
One of them is missing a portion of paint and the other looks good. But any of the ohm settings I use on my multimeter dont match any of the numbers I got. I tried 3 different 5 band testers and got a different number each time.
First off, are you removing them from the board before you're testing them?
And secondly, if you're testing them correctly and getting wildly inaccurate readings, then replace them.
hmm theyll have to come off anyways, forgot that the circuits can mess up a reading. The readings are differnt for each. Which setting shoud I be using, 2000? Is this a common one or do I have to pull them off another board?
If it's the value that I said above then you want it on the lowest setting it will go on. It's not a common resistor. Radio Shack sure isn't going to have it. Digikey.com and mouser.com don't look like they have it either.
"Game programmers are generally lazy individuals. That's right. It's true. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Since the dawn of computer games, game programmers have looked for shortcuts to coolness." Kurt Arnlund - Game programmer for Activision, Accolade...
crap, just what i need to hear, one of the tests I got was 1.03M ohm. Thats way different than 1.03.
I think its definitly blown, set on 200 it jumps up to 17 and 16 and then drops to zero again on both of them, and thats on the board.
But hey my soldering skills are vastly improving so yay more practice!
so now theyre off they wont read anything. Doesnt matter, theyre getting replaced one way or another. Any one have a duck hunt cart or something with these in it that I could salvage? Thanks for the help.
Is there a way to place a few together to get that rating? Or is anyone willing to sac some working cart with these in it? I dont care about the time and effort, i just want to see if I can make it work right.
I think the component you are measuring is a capacitor and not a resistor. That's why it gives wild readings when you try to measure its resistance. If it has a pinkish color to it instead of beige, it's a 0.01uf capacitor used for decoupling. Nintendo likes to use axial capacitors on their carts (snes also). One sure fire way to determine if its a decoupling capacitor is to check if one side connects to vcc and the other connects to ground. If you really need some, I have a few I took off some carts.
Indeed!
I also believe that you are mistaken the cartridge capacitors with resistors.....Also, Its quite unusual to kill a carbon resistor...
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If theyve disguised capacitor as a resistor, I stand corrected. But out of all the capactors ive replaced, never seen one that looks like a resistor. Yes it is beige colored. If I can ill get a pic of one of em. I think I lost the other.
Last edited by gokugohandave; 05-14-2009 at 12:29 PM.
So after 20 mins my 4 MP camera cant take a picture of this thing to save its life. Shadowkn55 can you put up a pic of one and I can tell you if thats it? How much would you be asking for two shipped?
My point and shoot camera doesn't focus well on close ups. Are there any markings near the component area? Something like C2 or R3. C# is for capacitors while R# is for resistors. If you end up needing it, just enough for shipping will cover it.
I am astonished, It does indeed say c3 and c4 for them , damn nintendo likes to be sneaky eh? I went and looked at some decoupling capacitors and NONE of them looked like this. Thats why I couldnt figure out why it was marked c. I know they use the r and c for markings. Ill take two of em if youve got the right bands, my paypal might be going empty today so will you take an echeck or something?
So a simple thought. Would it be possible to replace these with a different decoupling capacitor that does not resemble a resistor of the same value? Like blue square ones or the brown round ones? I know radioshack has em and it would be quicker. But if this wont work then ill have to go with some from you shadowkn55.
The package of the capacitor doesn't really matter so long as you can put the board back in the case without trouble.
Well thats good to hear, thanks to you ooxxxoo as well.
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