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Thread: Cleaning battery acid off my Game Gear

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    Default Cleaning battery acid off my Game Gear

    Obviously, it's in one of the battery casings. Best methods for cleaning it up? There was some definite caking when I found it, and I'd like to be able to play Dynamite Headdy in portable form.

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    My Tiger game.com came corroded with batteries. I just dumped the batteries in the trash and rubbed a damp cloth on the battery compartment. Then I dried it with a dry cloth afterwards and let it set a while.
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    If it's really bad you could use sandpaper or a small file. I've done that a few times with electronics, it may not look great with the metal scratched but it works.

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    WD40 neutralizes the acid/corrosion nicely.

    If the metal contacts in the battery compartment haven't rusted through you should be able to save it with that.
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    for some strange reason ive found that peroxide works aswell, maybe its just me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gokugohandave View Post
    for some strange reason ive found that peroxide works aswell, maybe its just me.
    Be sure to rinse it off with water when done. Also, don't do anything that will get it on the circuit board. Peroxide eats metal.

    My Lynx came with batteries crusted in it so bad I couldn't get them out. I took it apart and cleaned it out with q-tips and rubbing alchohol. I had to use my pocket knife to flick some off the spring contacts and then wiped it clean and it's worked great since.

    I know for car batteries they suggest using baking soda and water to clean corrosion, but that's probally overboard for small household batteries.

    EDIT---
    I don't know why this didn't pop in my head before. Alkaline batteries don't leak acid, they leak potassium hydroxide which is an alkali...hence the name. It will still corrode the metal battery contacts and even traces on the board though so it's just as bad. I think NiCd's and NiMH batteries also leak an alkali...unlike a car battery which uses sulfuric acid. Anyways, this has been your science lesson for the day, proceed with normal posting.
    Last edited by jb143; 07-23-2009 at 10:41 AM.
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    Weimen's cooktop cleaner also works wonders against corrosion, but it might not be applicable in this case.
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    @jb143: I dip a qtip in the peroxide and work it around the contacts only when its really badly caked, then use the other side with alcohol or water. I know that peroxide can be very corrosive in some situations.

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    cloth & baking soda & water........it will do the job.....

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    Should mention though that baking soda won't have any neutralizing power in this case, though I'm sure it's bound to have scrubbing power. I doubt that it matters anyways though as long as whatever you use gets it all off and the metal is still making contact to the batteries.
    "Game programmers are generally lazy individuals. That's right. It's true. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Since the dawn of computer games, game programmers have looked for shortcuts to coolness." Kurt Arnlund - Game programmer for Activision, Accolade...

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    I've used CLR in the past and it seems to bring corroded/rusted battery compartments back to life again. Give it a whirl.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jb143 View Post
    I know for car batteries they suggest using baking soda and water to clean corrosion, but that's probally overboard for small household batteries.

    EDIT---
    I don't know why this didn't pop in my head before. Alkaline batteries don't leak acid, they leak potassium hydroxide which is an alkali...hence the name. It will still corrode the metal battery contacts and even traces on the board though so it's just as bad. I think NiCd's and NiMH batteries also leak an alkali...unlike a car battery which uses sulfuric acid. Anyways, this has been your science lesson for the day, proceed with normal posting.
    To neutralize a car battery spill (which is lead/acid) you use the opposite, an alkali - in this case baking soda.

    To neutralize an alkaline battery leak, use the opposite, in this case acetic acid, better known as common white vinegar.

    Remove as much crud as you can before doing anything. Careful, that stuff is nasty. Don't rub your eyes, use eye protection, etc.

    If you can disassemble and soak the parts in vinegar, that's best. That will allow it to get into the pores. If not, a toothbrush (not yours) soaked in vinegar and gently rubbed should do it. Be careful, as the spatter is still chemically caustic.

    Once the bubbling has gone, then rinse in water. (followed by quick dip in 5% peroxide and rinse in water again if you wish.)

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