I know that the power switch is on because the jamma board itself gets power.Originally Posted by Ken Layton
As for fuses, I have no clue where they are located to check.
Also, for safety interlocks, I have no clue what those are.
The thing that is confusing me is the fact that the marquee gets no power. I should say the light fixture on top or whatever, but I did not think that had anything to do with the monitor. Could a safety interlock affect that? Or would a blown fuse affect that?
Where would the fuses be located for me to check?
I am sorry, I am new to this stuff, but want to learn.
Also, is there anything else that I can check since the marquee neon light and the monitor get no power, or does this sound like the culprit of a blown fuse?
EDIT: After some searching on the board, I found out that I have a
wells gardner 25k791
EDIT 2: sound also comes in.
Last edited by SegaAges; 11-18-2009 at 09:41 PM.
If that Sega STV is what you have, then it's in a Dynamo conversion cabinet. This could have several different internal wiring configurations depending on the cabinet model number (HS-x).
Here are pictures of two different power supplies that were used in these cabinets.
One is a Peter Chou 12 amp "screw terminal power supply. The other is a Peter Chou 200 watt "XT computer" style power supply.
If your cabinet has the XT computer style type of power supply then there should be a short (about 6" or so) dongle cable sticking out of the supply with a 3 pin flat white Molex connector. It will have black, white, and green wires. This connector is the 120 volt AC power output to the monittor's isolation transformer (and in some cabinets also to the light fixture). Is it possible you unplugged it and forgot to plug it back in? Maybe a pin scooted out of it's connector housing?
If your cabinet has the control panel AND the wood panel holding the gameboard and "screw terminal" type of power supply then there's a possibility that the slide out wood has snagged a wire or connector and pulled something loose/unplugged something.
In general, Dynamo cabinets do not use "safety interlock" switches. At least all the ones I've worked on over the years never had any.
It actually used to be a Tekken 2 cabinet that I put a st-v board in.
This is what the cabinet looks like:
I will check all the pin connectors tomorrow and let you guys know what happens
That looks like a 3KOAM Z-Back.
Yeah, I got to put a hold on working on this for the weekend since I am in Kansas visiting a friend that got cancer
Here is an update. I not only checked the connections of the pins, but reseated them to ensure that they were secure.
I am still having the same symptoms of no marquee light and no power to the monitor. I am assuming that if the monitor got power even if something else was fucked up, I would still get the tube glowing.
What else can cause this to happen. The board obviously gets power because the sound comes on properly, which is telling me that the board gets power and is sending the signal to the speakers.
Trace/follow the wires back from the monitor. There should be approx 120 volts AC at the monitor power connector.
Ok, cool. My roommate has a multimeter that I will bust out when he gets home to test it out.
EDIT: multimeter is giving a reading of 0 ac volts. I tested at the actual pins. Is that the place I should be checking at? What I did was put the multimeter underneath the board to get readings from the bottom of the pins.
I did, just for fun, set it to dc to see if anything was happening for a reading, and it did give me a dc number, but ac is zero
Last edited by SegaAges; 11-26-2009 at 10:50 PM.
I looked in the manual and it said something about a circuit breaker since the marquee is not getting power, but I have no clue where that is located.
EDIT: I found the wire that was not plugged in properly. I got the marquee light going.
Now, I just get a small dot on the screen instead of the picture
EDIT: I was looking at the manual for a k7000 to check it out, and saw some awesome looking controls for horizontal and vertical stuff, so I went to check on mine. While it did not have them, I noticed a capacitor that looked like it had literally busted open. I am pretty confident that I found my issue and I need a cap kit.
Before I order the cap kit, is there anything else that I should try?
And, just to make sure I order the correct one, I might need some help getting the exact model number of my board.
I guess the tricky part will be completely removing the board, since I had issues getting it removed the first time. Are there any wires besides shit connected to the neck board that would stay connected to anything that is not on the board?
I do know that there is 1 wire, which I will have to take a picture of tomorrow that looks like some sort of ground that is connected near the front of the screen
Last edited by SegaAges; 11-27-2009 at 07:06 PM.
If you found a burst capacitor it definitely needs to be replaced.
Other things that can cause what you're describing: unplugged yoke. Check it.
I feel like a noob asking this, but is the yoke the item that the neck board plugs into?
Last edited by TheDomesticInstitution; 12-18-2009 at 07:03 PM.
hmm, how would I check if the yoke itself is unplugged?
I have triple checked that the neck board is plugged in.
That one is beyond me. Messing with yokes and tube stuff is definitely for the experienced. I don't know why it would be unplugged though... fuck I didn't even know you could unplug it. If a monitor were this much trouble, especially with my skills, I'd be on the hunt for a new one. Or at least try and find someone local, who's into the hobby, to help me.
What exactly is it doing? Did you do a complete cap kit? Do you have any neck glow? Neck glow is hard to see sometimes with the light on. Maybe you have a bad flyback... I recently had to replace one.
Last edited by TheDomesticInstitution; 12-18-2009 at 08:31 PM.
The picture is coming in as a very small circle in the middle of the screen. When I say small, I mean about an inch or 2 in diameter.
Honestly, if it is not the yoke, I want to keep going until I have no other alternatives so that I can learn the stuff. I will never learn until it is broken like it is
You've gotten a lot of responses here from knowledgeable folks who are trying their hardest to help you.
You mentioned finding a cap that exploded, and you were asked whether or not you installed new caps on the monitor. You didn't answer, so it begs to be asked again. Did you do a cap kit on the monitor? It's not going to work properly no matter what else you mess with if the caps are shot.
Selling collection, Atari through XBox. Send a PM with whatever games you're looking for.
You can make out the picture though? It sounds like a bad cap(s) to me. Electrolytic dry up over time and as they do their value changes. Capacitors are used for things like setting frequencies...like telling the beam when to sweep back and forth. If the value changes, the size of the picture can change because of it.
Also, just so you know, leaving it running like that for too long can burn that circle into the screen.
"Game programmers are generally lazy individuals. That's right. It's true. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Since the dawn of computer games, game programmers have looked for shortcuts to coolness." Kurt Arnlund - Game programmer for Activision, Accolade...
Examine the yoke itself. It's a series of copper windings on a plastic frame.
Usually on the top of the yoke are four connectors with wire leading from them. The /usual/ colors for these wires are red, green, blue and yellow.
Follow the wires down to a connector. This connector will either be plugged into the main chassis, or it will not be. If it's not, then we'll plug it in. If it is...well, we'll burn that bridge when we get to it.
Also: yeah, you still need to replace that cap if you have not.
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