AAAARRRGHH!! TurboDuo collecting is frustrating!

[skaar]

Thank god we don't have these types of problems on modern gaming systems.

[ScottK]

From what I read the laser can get stuck when reading CD-Rs because the data is written too far over on the disc, and the laser moves too far to read it. The laser moves just beyond the point where it can move itself back, or something like that.

I'm not entirely sure but that's what some people said, they had to manually push/pull the laser so it would get unstuck. Others said that burned discs play fine on their system. I haven't done too much searching about it though.

That sounds exactly like what happened. I tried to play Meteor Blaster DX three different times and the laser got stuck twice. Both times it got stuck when it tried loading the game past the main menu. Fortunatly you don't have to push/pull the laser. The laser will get stuck in the far right position. You just open up the system and next to the laser there is a crank you can turn with your finger. Just keep moving the crank until the laser is back in the normal left position. That happened like a year ago and my duo still works flawlessly so glad it didn't do any permanent damage.

[Graham Mitchell]

Thank god we don't have these types of problems on modern gaming systems.

Sarcasm noted.

It sounds like when I get a nice fat paycheck and an urge to blow money I should look into getting a Duo-R. It's probably only a matter of time before this thing goes gunnysack.

Do you guys think getting a PCE to TG-16 Hucard converter would be cheaper than just getting a TG-16 and a TurboBooster Plus to play US HuCards? Or maybe getting the system modded to run US HuCards would be cheaper than both of those options?

[Tron 2.0]

Sarcasm noted.

It sounds like when I get a nice fat paycheck and an urge to blow money I should look into getting a Duo-R. It's probably only a matter of time before this thing goes gunnysack.

Do you guys think getting a PCE to TG-16 Hucard converter would be cheaper than just getting a TG-16 and a TurboBooster Plus to play US HuCards? Or maybe getting the system modded to run US HuCards would be cheaper than both of those options?

Having a duo-r region modded is the best option if you ask me.You get the best of both worlds being able "to play u.s&jpn hucards" on one console.

Mine is and it's very convenient to have it all in one.

Btw i find converters to be a waste of money any ways....beside them being over priced these days.

[XYXZYZ]

The way I understand it the black Duos (Turbo or PCE) are timebombs just waiting to die. Mine did. I'm fairly handy with electronics repair and I made lots of attempts to fix it, new HOP-M3 laser, changed lots of components, it wasn't gonna happen. Fortunately I knew better than to buy another first gen Duo and I invested in a Duo-RX. I even made an adapter to use a Sega Genesis (US) power supply just to make sure it was using the right voltage.

So now my only problem with PC Engine gaming is that all the good games are so goddamn expensive.

[Damaramu]

Having a duo-r region modded is the best option if you ask me.You get the best of both worlds being able "to play u.s&jpn hucards" on one console.

Mine is and it's very convenient to have it all in one.

Btw i find converters to be a waste of money any ways....beside them being over priced these days.

Who's doing these types of mods these days?

[nectarsis]

So now my only problem with PC Engine gaming is that all the good games are so goddamn expensive.

This is mentioned WAY to often. There is a TON of good-GREAT games for the PCE that are relatively cheap...and as a whole MUCH cheaper than collecting the US side of things.

[Arkhan]

This is mentioned WAY to often. There is a TON of good-GREAT games for the PCE that are relatively cheap...and as a whole MUCH cheaper than collecting the US side of things.

thats because everyones got tunnel vision and wants Dynastic Hero, Bonk 3, and Magical Chase. lol

they skip right over the cheap classics!


For <100$ you could load up on enough games to keep you busy awhile.

[savageone]

I've never had any real problems with mine, the CD audio went out once and I replaced the related caps. Took ~15 minutes to fix. 2 of them were leaking so I intend to do a complete cap overhaul at some point since I'm sure there will be others.

The R and RX models are slightly better pieces of hardware that have a few less things that can possibly go wrong, but the vast majority of problems that spring up with original Duos are cap related and simple fixes. No system is exempt from cap problems. R and RX models might not be going bad in droves quite yet, give them time though. :P

Any ways it is a good time to learn how to do minor fixes like replacing caps on your own, if anything it will be good knowledge to have in the future when older game systems are really going bad. Looking at replacing the caps in all your systems now isn't a bad idea, even perfectly working systems can have leaking caps which can cause major problems if they are left that way for a long time. Depending on the cap you might actually have to remove it to figure out if there is leakage.

It kind of sucks but a little TLC should go a long ways in most cases.

[Oldskool]

Well I've owned 5 turbo grafx systems in my lifetime, and 3 of them have failed on me. They are just trash. Not everyone should know how to replace caps and lasers. They should just work. I can understand one console going bad here and there, but damn. My Atari 2600 still works perfectly. All of my classic consoles have worked great (save blowing into nes carts), except for th Turbografx. Anyone that's not electonically inclined, or can't afford to ship out your consoles for repair don't get one, or a 360.

I did have a Duo -R and the thing worked perfectly I have to give it that. (Even though the music would cut out at the very end of Lords of Thunder for some reason or another).

[Graham Mitchell]

I would LOVE to learn how to replace caps on my own. Anyone know of a good guide online that's written in laymans terms?

Btw-the duo I have now has a blue led for the access light instead of the cruddy red one I'm used to seeing. Is this modded or was this a normal variant?

[savageone]

You can find tons of videos for how to do it on youtube, it might seem confusing at first but it's not too bad. There are a lot of different types of capacitors but what you almost always need basic run of the mill electrolyte radial capacitors, just match the uf and voltage (not a problem if voltage is higher, don't go lower though), make sure the positive/negative sides are aligned properly (longer lead is positive), clip off any of the lead you don't need, bend the legs over the pad if needed, and solder it on. If there is any leakage (usually a dark brown goop): clean it up with a q-tip/towel and alcohol.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eitPZ24_7KE

Do it once and you'll never pay someone to do it for you again. I'm not going to guess at how many issues with retro game systems are just cap related, but it has to be a good majority of them. It'll save you a lot of headaches and money in the future guaranteed.

[Tron 2.0]

Who's doing these types of mods these days?

http://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=7287.0

[Arkhan]

I would LOVE to learn how to replace caps on my own. Anyone know of a good guide online that's written in laymans terms?

Btw-the duo I have now has a blue led for the access light instead of the cruddy red one I'm used to seeing. Is this modded or was this a normal variant?

step one is being good at soldering. might want to invest in one of those newblit kits at radio shack that has stuff for beginners to solder, so you can build up the experience to get in and poke at important stuff without worry.


If you go in fresh and start jabbing with the soldering iron, you might make a mess of your duo!

[TheClash603]

Hey Arkhan, it looks like I am following you over from PCenginefx.com...

I have two Duos, and both work pretty damn well. Now the Turbo Express on the other hand... that is such a cool machine, but it was made VERY poorly.

[dhowerter]

OK, just to summarize this thread and make sure I got this right:

- The gray / squarish Turbo Duo USA / Japanese systems are time bombs (sound / laser / capacitor, etc. etc problems)
--> AVOID


- The way to go is: (for an actual, reliable, long-lasting system)

- the PC Engine Duo-R / Duo-RX OR

- the PC Engine CD (PC Engine with system 3.0 card plus CD Attachment)

- the TurboGrafx-16 CD (TG 16 with system 3.0 card plus CD Attachment)

Do I have that about right?

.

[jperryss]

OK, just to summarize this thread and make sure I got this right:

- The gray / squarish Turbo Duo USA / Japanese systems are time bombs (sound / laser / capacitor, etc. etc problems)
--> AVOID

This would be the black TurboDuo or the original black PCE Duo. Yes, sound capacitor failures are very common with this model.

- The way to go is: (for an actual, reliable, long-lasting system)

- the PC Engine Duo-R / Duo-RX OR

- the PC Engine CD (PC Engine with system 3.0 card plus CD Attachment)

- the TurboGrafx-16 CD (TG 16 with system 3.0 card plus CD Attachment)

Do I have that about right?

The way I understand it, the TG+CD and PCE+CD combo aren't especially reliable, but are 'more repairable' than the original Duo.

In any case, a Duo-R/RX is usually a safe bet.

[nectarsis]

There is almost nothing on a Duo that can not be repaired. People keep acting like the caps that tend to leak completely destroy a system. The PCE+CD, and TG+CD both have a common (at this time) irreplacable internal gear that is known to basically disentegrate.

As stated before, the Duo R or RX are the safest bets.

[Rickstilwell1]

Pretty much I got the original Duo just to have one and it still works. Would you recommend I use my normal TurboGrafx-16 for HuCard games and only use the TurboDuo for the occasional CD only game? Or does letting it set there unused give it more of a risk of leaking?

[Breetai]

Here's the most economical answer for authentic Duo action; get a regular Tubrografx-16 and a PC Engine Duo. The Japanese Duo is cheaper to replace than the US Duo.