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Thread: Pioneer Laseractive Repair Info

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    Default Pioneer Laseractive Repair Info

    Hello all! New to this forum, but I've been on many other forums for a while. I've recently tackled some Laseractive repairs, and I haven't found a good place to share some of my findings. So here's what I've got!

    Pioneer CLD-A100 Repair Info:

    The problems I've seen with these units so far have been either jammed tray / laser mechanisms or faulty / damaged laser units.

    Fixing jammed mechanisms is usually a matter of carefully taking the unit apart and freeing / lubricating the jammed mechanisms. Sometimes parts must be replaced. Information on sourcing those parts is below.

    Laser issues can range from discs not reading at all or not reading properly. (bad video output, skipping etc) Fortunately, replacing a laser is a very straight forward process.

    A complete factory service manual for the CLD-A100 is found HERE

    Replacement parts can be ordered directly from Pioneer still! The part numbers can be found in the service manual above and searched for directly on Pioneer's replacement parts site.

    http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/

    The laser pickup for the CLD-A100 is no longer available from Pioneer... however a compatible replacement IS still available.

    Original Laser Pickup (no longer available)
    "Compatible" Replacement Pickup

    Alternately... used lasers can supposedly be found in the following Pioneer Laserdisc Players...

    CLD-E2000
    CLD-S201
    CLD-S250
    CLD-S303
    CLD-V111
    CLD-V121G
    CLD-V2600
    CLD-V350
    CLD-V370
    CLD-V730
    CLD-V740
    CLD-V750

    I can confirm personally that the CLD-S201 has the same laser AND the tray / laser mechanism / disc clamp are also the same! Some of other LD players may share a lot of parts with the CLD-A100 also.

    Laser Replacement Guide:

    1. Turn unit on and eject the laserdisc tray. Turn unit off with tray open



    2. Remove outer housing from unit. (5 Philips screws on the back and 4 on the sides)

    3. Remove 4 screws holding the top PCB to the unit. (Red Arrows) and remove the 4 screws holding the disc clamp unit to the case. (Yellow Arrows)



    4. Carefully lay the top PCB over the side of the unit.





    5. Now we can easily access the laser assembly. First carefully release the ribbon cable lock tab with a screwdriver. Then pull out the ribbon cable carefully.




    6. Release the screw holding down the laser track rod



    7. Now carefully lift the laser with track rod out of the unit. Note that the rod slides out of the front carrier and also note that the other side of the laser slides along the metal frame of the laser carrier.



    8. Slide the track rod out of the laser mechanism and onto the new laser mechanism. Before installing however, look closely at the side of the "tilt sensor" which looks like a little black bubble. There will be a colored mark on the corner of it. It will be either RED or BLUE or Blank. Depending on which it is you must set one of the adjustment pots on the main PCB in one of 3 positions.



    9. Reassemble laser into unit and locate VR620 on the main PBC. If your tilt sensor was painted RED, then turn VR620 fully clockwise. Blank turn it to the middle position, and BLUE turn VR620 fully counter-clockwise.

    Refer here for a diagram showing where exactly the POT is and some more information on some of the adjustments.



    10. Reassemble the entire unit except maybe the outer shell and test! Also, while you have everything apart, its not a bad idea to inspect the various gears / mechanisms for anything that looks out of the ordinary.

    That's all the information I have to offer right now. If I find more I'll update this post accordingly. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask!

    All this information is offered AS IS! Use at your own risk! I'm not responsible for any damage you do to your system by using this information.

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    Laseractive PAC Repairs:

    Typically I've seen most faulty PACs are caused by leaking / corroded SMT capacitors. I recommend replacing the capacitors on ANY Laseractive PAC you've got, simply because they are all at the age now where the capacitors are likely failing and starting to leak. Left unchecked, they can cause permanent damage to the PAC.

    Below are some Capacitor Diagrams I made for these PACs.

    PAC N1 / N10



    PAC S1 / S10




    Note, on one PAC S10 I worked on, the little "add on" PCB was not present and there was an extra capacitor on the sub PCB.

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    Nice info, thanks for sharing. I think my Sega PAC needs the cap replacement, I should look into getting it done someday.

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    Thank you for providing this great information. My Sega PAC no longer reads Sega-CD's but reads laserdiscs and my NEC PAC works great. Now I have some leads. Anybody have a definitive solution?
    I love buying stuff now, that I could never afford in the past!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Contrabassoon86 View Post
    Thank you for providing this great information. My Sega PAC no longer reads Sega-CD's but reads laserdiscs and my NEC PAC works great. Now I have some leads. Anybody have a definitive solution?
    I'd definitely start with replacing the caps in the units. I've had several units come to me with tons of corrosion and leakage on the capacitors. That can cause all sorts of malfunctions.

    The Sega PACs take a while just because there are so many capacitors. And if theres a lot of corrosion it takes longer because you need to clean extra well.

    NEC Pacs have a lot less caps and they're more spread out, so they're not as bad to deal with.

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    Who's crappy broken Laseractive is that?

    ...it's mine!

    BlueBMW is a real pro when it comes to fixing stuff, and he's a swell fellow on top of that.

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    I can add a few notes for your SSUB board map:

    If the KOSUB board isn't added on to the SSUB, the same value cap (100uf 6v) is installed on SSUB, right where that blue wire is connected. Those SSUB boards seemed to have been changed but without incrementing the board revision, which not very Pioneer-like behavior. C110 is the new cap number.

    Also on your map, C109 is the 1uf @ 50v, but to my eyes that still appears yellow.

    Thanks for posting those, I've actually been working on maps of my own and hadn't confirmed the layout for DNP1550-A (B & C are identical layouts).

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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    I can add a few notes for your SSUB board map:

    If the KOSUB board isn't added on to the SSUB, the same value cap (100uf 6v) is installed on SSUB, right where that blue wire is connected. Those SSUB boards seemed to have been changed but without incrementing the board revision, which not very Pioneer-like behavior. C110 is the new cap number.

    Also on your map, C109 is the 1uf @ 50v, but to my eyes that still appears yellow.

    Thanks for posting those, I've actually been working on maps of my own and hadn't confirmed the layout for DNP1550-A (B & C are identical layouts).
    Good, I'm glad you confirmed the KOSUB board variance. I have only seen one board without the KOSUB on it. I had to look it over twice to figure out what happened, but tracing the circuits I could tell that the circuit on the KOSUB board was integrated into the main SSUB board.

    As far as C109.. yeah its green, but i probably should have chosen a better color as to contrast better from the yellow ones.

    I should also note... I was a little lazy on the capacitor voltages. Many of them are 6v capacitors, but I just blanket labeled them all 16V. I made these charts for myself to use when I did repairs on them. If you get small profile caps, they fit just fine.
    Last edited by BlueBMW; 03-14-2011 at 09:38 PM.

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    Nice info, thanks for sharing. I think my Sega PAC needs the cap replacement, I should look into getting Texas Hold Em Tex done someday.
    Last edited by Mandy56; 05-17-2013 at 07:08 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mandy56 View Post
    Nice info, thanks for sharing. I think my Sega PAC needs the cap replacement, I should look into getting it done someday.
    Most capacitor replacements I've done are easy but after having done it to my Sega PAC its a bit of a pain due to space limitations.

    I have a Pioneer CLD-1580K LaserDisc player here, I can't confirm it but the tray mechanism looks very similar and might be useful as a replacement.
    I fix things. You name it, I'll work on it. Want something modded? Recapped?

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    Quote Originally Posted by APE992 View Post
    Most capacitor replacements I've done are easy but after having done it to my Sega PAC its a bit of a pain due to space limitations.

    I have a Pioneer CLD-1580K LaserDisc player here, I can't confirm it but the tray mechanism looks very similar and might be useful as a replacement.
    Sega PAC cap replacements are one of the harder cap jobs I've done, usually because there is a lot of leakage and corrosion to clean up. The board seems particularly prone to having traces corroded away and required bypasses made.


    Also, if anyone has a Laseractive system that powers on but seems to do nothing at all, visit this thread here:

    http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=4434.0

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    I've also somewhat recently added a bunch of LA stuff to my wiki. Awhile back I obtained documents from an original service provider, including high-quality schematics, fiche, and some never before service notes and updates from Pioneer. Some of the Cyberroach scans were better in a few spots, so I've merged my schematics and his scans, did a lot of image cleaning, OCR, and reduced them to a more manageable size without quality loss.


    At: http://console5.com/wiki/Laseractive_CLD-A100
    Service Manual (ARP2757)
    Diagrams and Patterns (ARZ2757)
    GOL-1, ADP-1: Exploded Views, Packing and Parts List (RRV1012)
    Supplemental Service Info (updates to the service manual, service remedies for problems on early units, and other assorted stuff)


    At: http://console5.com/wiki/Sega_PAC-S10
    Control Pack PAC-S10 / Control Pad CPD-S1 Exploded Views, Parts, List, Block Diagram (ARP2779)


    At: http://console5.com/wiki/NEC_PAC-N10
    Exploded views, packing, and a parts list, PAC-N10, Order No. (ARP2763)


    The above exploded diagrams are still available at many of those sites where you pay for photocopies of service info. In short: don't even think about wasting your money on them. You can download them from my site and say "wow, I'm glad I didn't actually buy this, and I can't believe someone would charge money for it"

    Thanks for the pics and non-op diagnosis from the above thread, that's great stuff to know.
    Console5.com - Console parts, kits, games and more. [shop] [wiki] [RSS] [f] [t]

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    Just read through that Wiki! Excellent material there! Thanks for organizing all of it so well.

    I'm glad you made mention of checking for a short between +5v and ground after a cap swap... more than once I've blown an IC protector because a fleck of solder made a bridge...

    Speaking of blown IC protectors....
    Here's copy / paste of what I added to a thread over on gamesx

    I've seen several units now with a new problem. If you get a system that will turn on (lights turn on etc) but displays nothing, does nothing, no buttons do anything.... turn it off!!! What has likely happened is one of the IC protectors (fuses) on the power supply board has popped. This is usually caused by a shorted PAC (either from capacitor fluid leaks or a botched solder job) What will happen is either the +5v, -5v, +14v or -14v lines will be cut by the fuse popping. Typically its the +5v line though. WARNING, if your system is exhibiting this problem, please turn it off immediately. Here's why: When one of the voltage lines is cut, I've noticed that the laser head will peg to a corner (loss of tracking control circuit or something) and it will actually start to heat up and smoke. I've seen several lasers destroyed / damaged because of this! Do not leave one of these systems on for more than a few seconds if you can avoid it. Otherwise you'll likely be needing to replace the laser.

    Ok, on to the repair! The tricky part is that you'll have to remove the power supply board from the system. Normally its not too difficult, but since the system is basically dead, you wont be able to open the disc tray. Its not easy, but if you take the rear panel loose and fenagle the connections on the power supply board, you can get it out and then back in. Just be careful with the three ribbon like connections.

    Once the board is out, look on the bottom of the board (the solder side) and locate IC101, IC102, IC201, and IC202. Check continuity over those pins. If any of them are open, replace that IC protector. I believe the 5V line IC protectors are ICP-N50. They're not easy to find, but they can sometimes be salvaged from other electronic's power supply boards. There are a few suppliers online that have them. After you've replaced the faulty IC protector, your system should come back alive. Before you power it on again though, you might want to check continuity from the 5v and 14v circuits to ground. On the main board of the system (under the top board that folds over the side) there are multiple lines visible that are labelled. Most likely cause is a faulty PAC from leaked capacitors.

    WARNING!!!
    When you are operating this PSU board on a bench, be aware that there is LIVE AC VOLTAGE present on the board. Specifically where the ac plug connects to the board and points before the transformer. It WILL shock you (I know!) So please use caution handling a board that is powered up.

    If you want to test the power supply board on the bench, here's a chart showing where you can test it. In order to turn the power supply board on, you will need to jump 5V to pin 6 of the left most connector in this picture. Additionally, on the far right of the board there is a connector where the power switch plugs into, you will need to bridge that connection also.

    Also note in this picture, there is an extra ICP-N50 that has been wired in. This was done by Pioneer, but is not present on all units I've seen. The other black wires you see were done by me. (repaired a cracked board)

    Last edited by BlueBMW; 02-20-2012 at 10:35 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueBMW View Post

    Also note in this picture, there is an extra ICP-N50 that has been wired in. This was done by Pioneer, but is not present on all units I've seen. The other black wires you see were done by me. (repaired a cracked board)

    Hello , I would like to know EXACTLY on What this ICP-N50 is Wired Please. As you say "This was Pioneer, But not present in all Units" Perhaps Pioneer used their brain and noticed that wiring an extra ICP under the board would PREVENT the PSU to burn or get faulty. For whom that do not know what is a ICP , is a Fuse.

    ICP-N10 0.4A Rated 50V
    ICP-N15 0.6A Rated 50V
    ICP-N20 0.8A Rated 50V
    ICP-N25 1.0A Rated 50V
    ICP-N38 1.5A Rated 50V
    ICP-N50 2.0A Rated 50V
    ICP-N70 2.5A Rated 50V

    For my part, I live in Japan since 12 years. A months ago I have found a CLD-A100 in a Junk box outside.Not working , not powering up... I have re-soldered all the solder connection on all board. They was all flat and dark grey. That mean the solder is out dated/ cracked (And that normal since it is a Units from the 90's ) .Now the CLD-A100 work (Power up, LD/CD Eject button OK, Laser lens reacting and motor spinning ) ... but no picture out put. I got a black screen. I have found that the ICP-N20 is not good. Other component test all OK. I replaced the ICP-N20 but it burned again. I am on my way to order all the ICP-Ns and replace them all + some capacitors for a better brand (Anyway they old).
    It seems that lots of CLD go into the garbage because of the PSU. Anyway , If you could post a picture of the bottom of your PSU so we can see exactly what have been modded by Pioneer that would help , and also complete this very good post.

    Thank you

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    Very nice, I wish this was posted a few years back when my Laseractive was first acting up. I did the cap replacement on my Sega PAC myself, and I never want to do it again. I think it took eight hours of de- then re-soldering. It's near impossible to get the old caps off the board with a soldering iron, since the leads are almost completely hidden under the body of the cap. I actually had a few pop on me trying to melt the damn solder. What I eventually found to work the best was simply to pull the cap off with pliers. The body of the cap would lift off, just leading the leads that are soldered to the board. Then it was much easier to de-solder the leads. I did end up lifting a couple of traces that I needed to repair, but that ceased to be an issue once I just started to pull the caps off of the board with pliers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hellsing View Post
    Anyway , If you could post a picture of the bottom of your PSU so we can see exactly what have been modded by Pioneer that would help , and also complete this very good post.

    Thank you
    Next time I have a power supply board out that has the extra circuit protector, I'll determine its exact solder points.

    And yes, Sega PAC cap swaps are a nightmare. One of my least favorite tasks to do.

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    Need to bump this one.

    I just picked up a Laseractive from a thrift store yesterday. $216.65 was a bit more than I wanted to spend but damn is it cheaper than most.

    Anyway, it plays Genesis and Sega CD games just fine. MegaLDs don't have any video in the background and the graphics are black and white and warped pretty badly. Laserdiscs don't have any video but audio works fine as it does in MegaLD games. I'm guessing there is either some failure on a board in the Laseractive and not the PAC or the laser is shot.

    Any thoughts?
    I fix things. You name it, I'll work on it. Want something modded? Recapped?

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    Quote Originally Posted by APE992 View Post
    Need to bump this one.

    I just picked up a Laseractive from a thrift store yesterday. $216.65 was a bit more than I wanted to spend but damn is it cheaper than most.

    Anyway, it plays Genesis and Sega CD games just fine. MegaLDs don't have any video in the background and the graphics are black and white and warped pretty badly. Laserdiscs don't have any video but audio works fine as it does in MegaLD games. I'm guessing there is either some failure on a board in the Laseractive and not the PAC or the laser is shot.

    Any thoughts?
    I replied to your (I'm assuming) thread over at assembler.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tokimemofan View Post
    I replied to your (I'm assuming) thread over at assembler.
    It is. I'll be cracking it open later to check everything out.
    I fix things. You name it, I'll work on it. Want something modded? Recapped?

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    I don't know about your assembler thread, but I recommend replacing the caps on that Sega PAC as soon as possible. It's possible the capacitors are leaking, the weird issues like this sound indicative of that problem. If you think it's the player itself try and play a disc without the PAC and see if you experience the same issues.

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    First off, thank you for all the infoin this thread. I am the new owner of a Laseractive player, the player however will not spin discs. I have removed the lid and watched the laser. The tray moves into the correct position, the laser moves on the track just fine and the laser lights up but the disc wont spin. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

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    Default Pionner LaserActive A100 w/ Pack Mega Drive

    Hi, guys, I have a Pioneer LaserActive with Pack MegaDrive.
    It works perfectly with the megadrive Pack but he did not preduz discs.
    I opened it and noticed that it does not spin the discs. Apparently everything else works normally (gears, optical drive ...) but does not spin discs.
    What think you can be? Please I need help.

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    I picked up a regular pioneer LD player that did the same thing. all it needed was a good cleaning on the inside and then it was fine.
    I think it was the one I used 99% isopropyl alcohol on a q-tip and then swabbed the lens with it. I figured it was already broken, it was a last ditch effort after I found everything else was ok.

    it basically would spin the disc because it couldn't see that any thing was in the drive

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    just use smd/smt replacements a bit harder to get saves a lot of hassle.

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    Default Laser Active problems

    Hello here,
    Last edited by bluemax; 05-12-2015 at 08:55 AM.

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