When buying used carts...

[wiggyx]

How OCD are you about cleaning them up? Personally, I can't stand all the stickers, BBQ sauce, Pepsi, etc that ends up on these carts, but I'm not one to pass up a decent deal. So, I've found that I spend entirely too long cleaning the damned things in order to keep them from tarnishing my collection.

I bought 10 carts today. Spent about 2 hours disassembling and cleaning them. My arsenal of cleaners and tools just seems to keep growing as I've started to add to my cart collection for the 1st time in about 10 years, which of course means that I just spend all that much more time fiddling with them. Here's what I'm talking about.





Luckily they all cleaned up pretty well with minimal amounts of torn labels and whatnot.

[lazyhoboguy]

I know what you mean. i frequently get cartridges at thrift stores and they are often dirty. I find that alchohol wipes work great for cleaning the outsides. I normally dont bother to open them up inside.

[TheBenenator]

If it's not brand-new, in the box, I immediately clean the game BEFORE letting it anywhere NEAR my console.

Good thing, too -- got my "clean" Donkey Kong Land cart last Friday, and the pins were FILTHY. Took 15 minutes of scrubbing at them with a Q-Tip soaked in 70% alcohol, and there was STILL corrosion on a few pins. Finally remembered the pencil-eraser trick.

[Genesaturn]

I understand, It always sucks when I stumble across a good find and its all sticky from God knows what. I've always asked the age long question..."what on earth do people do with their video games that gets them with food and other stuff encrusted to the cart.." I spend quite a bit of time cleaning them. I can't pass up a good find due to a dirty cart!

[wiggyx]

^^^ people always think it sounds crazy, but 000/00 steel wool is about the perfect thing for cleaning contacts. You don't need to use any solvent or detergent, it removes the corrosion with almost zero effort, and it's doesn't scar the contacts like sandpaper or scotch brite pads do.

Seriously, give it a try. It's like the miracle cure for crusty cartridge contacts

[Genesaturn]

^^^ people always think it sounds crazy, but 000/00 steel wool is about the perfect thing for cleaning contacts. You don't need to use any solvent or detergent, it removes the corrosion with almost zero effort, and it's doesn't scar the contacts like sandpaper or scotch brite pads do.

Seriously, give it a try. It's like the miracle cure for crusty cartridge contacts

Going to buy some right after work today lol - thanks for the heads up!

[sloan]

Everything I buy gets the screws removed and cleaned inside and out before it gets near one of my consoles. When I am done, all rental stickers, "void" decals, magnetic strips, dung, spittle, vomit, etc. is gone. Permanent marker and nail polish names and initials are gone as well. Pins are sanded and cleaned with 91% isopropyl, and any peeling labels are glued back in their proper place.

Because I am adept at refurbing filthy sticker clad game cartridges, I often buy the "acceptable" games off ebay that have "Bobby" in large nail polish letters across them. I get some nice deals that way, and the carts look good in my collection after my cleaning process.

I think of it as performing a service to the gaming community by saving many games that might not see the light of day otherwise.

[CRTGAMER]

^^^ people always think it sounds crazy, but 000/00 steel wool is about the perfect thing for cleaning contacts. You don't need to use any solvent or detergent, it removes the corrosion with almost zero effort, and it's doesn't scar the contacts like sandpaper or scotch brite pads do.

Seriously, give it a try. It's like the miracle cure for crusty cartridge contacts

The Phalanx cart looks great. Looking at the before picture, a pencil eraser would achieve the same results. Steel Wool is certainly tougher material then the gold alloy contacts so likely some of the contact metal was removed. A very slight amount since you used fine steel wool, but something to think about. There is also a risk if any steel wool fine threads might get trapped in the chip legs and missed. Maybe use the steel wool and Contact Cleaner ONLY when there is bad corrosion, most contacts can be cleaned with just alcohol or an eraser.

[sloan]

I go the extra mile too, but I use a slightly more rigid plastic bag

Where do you get those SNES cases and liner sleeves?

The Phalanx cart looks great. Looking at the before picture, a pencil eraser would achieve the same results. Steel Wool is certainly tougher material then the gold alloy contacts so likely some of the contact metal was removed. A very slight amount since you used fine steel wool, but something to think about. There is also a risk if any steel wool fine threads might get trapped in the chip legs and missed. Maybe use the steel wool and Contact Cleaner ONLY when there is bad corrosion, most contacts can be cleaned with just alcohol or an eraser.

I only use 400 grit sandpaper, and lightly at that, plus 91% isopropyl. Sure, the sandpaper takes off a little metal from the contacts, but I only do that treatment when I first get the games. Later cleaning only involves alcohol unless that by itself won't get the games working. I had slot car tracks and electric trains as a child, and the best way to get the rails clean was sandpaper and alcohol. Old habits die hard, I guess.

[Gameguy]

^^^ people always think it sounds crazy, but 000/00 steel wool is about the perfect thing for cleaning contacts. You don't need to use any solvent or detergent, it removes the corrosion with almost zero effort, and it's doesn't scar the contacts like sandpaper or scotch brite pads do.

Seriously, give it a try. It's like the miracle cure for crusty cartridge contacts

Bronze wool might be better than steel wool. There's always the chance that you could leave behind microscopic traces of the steel wool embedded in the contacts and those bits of steel will eventually rust.

I learned this from sites dealing with antique bicycle restoration, they would recommend using bronze wool when cleaning chrome parts instead of steel wool for that reason.


I come across dirty games all the time, usually I won't bother buying them unless they're something rare or something I need but I do clean them properly if I get them. I know I mentioned it before but when I bought another local collector's personal NES collection all of the games were dirty in some way, with some being completely filthy. I spent 3-4 months cleaning all of the games as it was a large collection, and most of the games were extras that I was just going to sell off. I don't feel right selling games in poor condition, I have to clean them first.

[xelement5x]

I've got a pretty similar set up for cleaning games. For me, the whole sticker removal and cleaning process is a nice thing to multitask while watching TV or watch my wife play games for awhile. It's easy to do, and I'm always so pleased with how they look when their done.

I also use super fine steel wool on my contacts but only for extreme cases. Normally I use rubbing alcohol (91%) first and try to rub it off, if that doesn't work I'll wet the contacts with alcohol and go over them with an art eraser, that normally takes off everything and it boots fine.

I almost always go the full mile and clean stickers/gum/soda whatever off the cart to make it look the best. I do sometimes have problems with getting permanent marker off items with a textured surface (for example, NES carts). I've got some N64 carts with writing on the top that I can't really get off without practically rubbing the texture off the top. I use rubbing alcohol to do it, does anyone else have suggestions?

[wiggyx]

The Phalanx cart looks great. Looking at the before picture, a pencil eraser would achieve the same results. Steel Wool is certainly tougher material then the gold alloy contacts so likely some of the contact metal was removed. A very slight amount since you used fine steel wool, but something to think about. There is also a risk if any steel wool fine threads might get trapped in the chip legs and missed. Maybe use the steel wool and Contact Cleaner ONLY when there is bad corrosion, most contacts can be cleaned with just alcohol or an eraser.

Thanks!

Possibly, it was pretty corroded. The contacts on the carts are brass, not gold, so they can take a lot more than you'd think.

I should have mentioned that I always hit the boards with canned air and a toothbrush afterward for that very reason. That is the only real downside that I've found over the last 10 or so years using steel wool for this. I've never run into a problem, so I tend not to worry about it.

As far as removing non-corroded metals goes, I'm not seeing it. If it were, then abrasion marks (scuffs/scratches) would be present, and they're not. The contacts end up nice and shiny.

Where do you get those SNES cases and liner sleeves?

I only use 400 grit sandpaper, and lightly at that, plus 91% isopropyl. Sure, the sandpaper takes off a little metal from the contacts, but I only do that treatment when I first get the games. Later cleaning only involves alcohol unless that by itself won't get the games working. I had slot car tracks and electric trains as a child, and the best way to get the rails clean was sandpaper and alcohol. Old habits die hard, I guess.

I remember using 600 grit on my Dad's old slot car kit that he gave me. I've used steel wool for that too, but it just ends up EVERYWHERE on an item of that scale. No fun.

The cases are Universal Game Cases (UGC) purchase from a place called Media Shelving. If you hop on over to www.thecoverproject.net you'll see plenty of examples. As far as the inserts go, you can use the covers that have been made up by members over there, or just make your own (which is what I've done). It's a shit ton of work, but it really unifies a collection of cart games PLUS it keeps them away from the elements

Bronze wool might be better than steel wool. There's always the chance that you could leave behind microscopic traces of the steel wool embedded in the contacts and those bits of steel will eventually rust.

I learned this from sites dealing with antique bicycle restoration, they would recommend using bronze wool when cleaning chrome parts instead of steel wool for that reason.


I come across dirty games all the time, usually I won't bother buying them unless they're something rare or something I need but I do clean them properly if I get them. I know I mentioned it before but when I bought another local collector's personal NES collection all of the games were dirty in some way, with some being completely filthy. I spent 3-4 months cleaning all of the games as it was a large collection, and most of the games were extras that I was just going to sell off. I don't feel right selling games in poor condition, I have to clean them first.

Again, I shoulda mentioned...

I'd be more worried about shorts than rust, since the rust doesn't really have any ability to affect the brass contacts. But it wouldn't be a pleasant thing to have in there, that's for sure.

Sounds like you're a good re-seller. Always nice to hear that there are folks out there who aren't in it just to make a buck at someone else's expense

I've got a pretty similar set up for cleaning games. For me, the whole sticker removal and cleaning process is a nice thing to multitask while watching TV or watch my wife play games for awhile. It's easy to do, and I'm always so pleased with how they look when their done.

I also use super fine steel wool on my contacts but only for extreme cases. Normally I use rubbing alcohol (91%) first and try to rub it off, if that doesn't work I'll wet the contacts with alcohol and go over them with an art eraser, that normally takes off everything and it boots fine.

I almost always go the full mile and clean stickers/gum/soda whatever off the cart to make it look the best. I do sometimes have problems with getting permanent marker off items with a textured surface (for example, NES carts). I've got some N64 carts with writing on the top that I can't really get off without practically rubbing the texture off the top. I use rubbing alcohol to do it, does anyone else have suggestions?

Rubbing alcohol works really well, but you may need to soak it for a period of time.

I use a product called Bestine for stubborn labels and marker traces. It's safe for plastics, but it's got a lot more kick than alcohol does. It's normally used for removing rubber cement and other art/craft adhesives. You can find it at art supply stores. I imagine you can find it at Home Depot/Lowe's too, but I've never checked.

[Parodius Duh!]

If it's not brand-new, in the box, I immediately clean the game BEFORE letting it anywhere NEAR my console.

Good thing, too -- got my "clean" Donkey Kong Land cart last Friday, and the pins were FILTHY. Took 15 minutes of scrubbing at them with a Q-Tip soaked in 70% alcohol, and there was STILL corrosion on a few pins. Finally remembered the pencil-eraser trick.

Im glad I can say Ive never encountered a corroded cartridge before....

[sloan]

Another advantage to taking screws out of cartridges and cleaning inside:

I have come across a few NES and SNES games over the years that had a noticeable rattle to them. Upon opening the cartridge shell, I found the plastic board retainer broken off on one side. All I can guess is that the previous owner had a console with dirty pins/blinking screen problem and figured that the games needed to be shoved in hard to make them work. The broken off board retainer piece actually allows the game's PCB to float in and out of the cartridge on that side if not repaired. Opening up the rattling game cases allowed me to superglue the broken off retainer back in place, fixing the problem.

[8-bit-dreams]

well, i think it is most proper to give care to our collections / treasures , and one part of that i think is cleaning them up , that's at least for our own good also. Cleaning them up purchase after purchase makes it easier i guess. I don't want to clean a pile of 2 or 4 months bunch of finds.

[sloan]

I even thoroughly clean "cleaned and tested" ebay purchases, often finding them grimy inside and black on the contacts. Dirty liars...