PS1 RGB over RCA style connectors

[theclaw]

Found something interesting. Looks like there are devices built for this, but it doesn't say where to obtain one...

http://www.inlineinc.com/products/special/2067.htm

[gokugohandave]

http://www.applied-computer.com/Inve...roupID=6370453

[theclaw]

http://www.applied-computer.com/Inve...roupID=6370453

Ouch. There must be monitors who need it then, no clue what.

[APE992]

Or you could spend ~$15 on a SCART cable and ~$25 on SCART->BNC cable and have a ready setup to go for any other RGB capable consoles that don't have break out boxes.

Or is there a secondary purpose to this than just RGB with whatever is on hand?

Also CSYNC is a pin on the GPU but it varies from model to model which pin it is. Shouldn't dick with it unless you know how to tap it properly as well as why you'd want to buffer the signal though. You should just strip composite sync from composite video instead.

[Niku-Sama]

on the SCPH-1001 it was pin 156, right on the corner of the chip. I was able to tap it directly actually but I did find a small pad that's on the bottom side of the board from it. there only one via between it and the and pad. same result (obviously) tapping into it and pin 156. stable picture but overly tinted

the PU-22 board is responding well to the mod but the spindle broke so I'm only able to test with the menu until I salvage another one.
I turned it on and it spit the bearings used to hold the disc out into the case, was fun.

I'm tempted to lift pin 156 on the borked SCPH-1001 and see what might happen if I tap into it after lifting it. obviously lifting it will eff the rest of the video out but I am curious at this point.

I should say lift it again as its already been lifted once before because when I removed the tap directly from the pin I also removed too much solder from the leg and when I was testing for continuity to make sure it was still good it lifted. man it was a bitch to get it back down and not bridged

[Niku-Sama]

I got it spot on if any one would like to double check it heres how I did it.

I was reading the game SX wiki about getting composite sync out of a PSOne using a diode and a 820ohm resistor on H and V sync and then splicing it together.
I figured since an 820 ohm resistor is needed there lets try it on composite sync to pin 12 for green.

perfect. no odd tint, good geometry, syncs up no problems.

i'll get some pics in the morning of where I soldered and what it looks like.

[Niku-Sama]

well a week later, I was playing it more and more and then I went back to work, so another day off and here I am

heres what was done:




pretty simple, the solder point on the board isn't the greatest but it works.

heres some comparisons, I'm using the breakout box in order to be able to have it on both tvs at the same time






both of these tvs have their picture settings in the dead center on all adjustable settings. not the greatest pics but what can you expect from a cell phone
going to try the SCPH-1001 soon but I am going to get my odyssey 2 cleaned up and make sure it works before then