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Thread: Trying to de-solder a game chip from a board (Sega Genesis) and not having luck

  1. #21
    ServeBot (Lɘvel 11) RP2A03's Avatar
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    The entire pad should be covered, although now that I take a closer look at your picture I am not sure if what I am seeing is actually copper.

    You don't have to worry about solder leaking through the hole, surface tension will prevent that. Bridged pins are also easy to fix, even with tiny surface mount components; just pull up any excess solder with the iron and surface tension will do the rest.
    Mario says "... if you do drugs, you go to hell before you die."

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    I'm not sure I'm seeing copper either as much as a crappy iphone 5s camera perhaps causing a lighting halo around the edges of the solder. I'm not arguing, I really don't remember.

    I did bridge a few initially when I tried it a different way. I had heated the pin a moment, then I'd mash a little solder spool into the hot tip of the iron and then I'd take that dot of it and touch the heated pin and let it fall over it evenly to fill the space. If it didn't I'd put a wee bit more and tap it again letting it run over that to do more. I did bridge it once or twice, and I just used my tool I have with the tip and flat angled edge on the other end, heated it, then put the tip between the two to break it up evenly which worked great.

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    Maybe if you're just learning to solder you might want to practice awhile on electronics that don't matter, rather than start with something that's rare and valuable.

    I still need to check my Tengen titles again. For all the copies of Ms. Pac-Man I've come across, I can't remember finding a dead one. I have Rampart around somewhere as well.

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    Given I've worked with battery tabs in games and wiring issues on pinball parts I didn't really feel a need to worry about that. My only concern was prying away the chip in the first place and once I got that down on the beater that's when then I did it cleanly and fast with Grind Stormer and it worked out just fine.

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    Awesome job, especially for someone not having a lot of soldering experience. This thread motivated me to finally swap my Grind Stormer PCB as well.

    Years ago when my copy died, I found a number of broken vias with a multimeter. I soldered jumper wires over the broken vias and it worked. After the repair I beat the game with no problems. Unfortunately it was only a temporary fix and after a few years the game would randomly freeze after playing for awhile. I have a feeling some of the other vias were going bad so a PCB swap was still needed to do a proper and clean fix.

    Just today I did a successful PCB swap with a broken Alisia Dragoon. It worked out perfectly since Alisia Dragoon was the only other broken Genesis game that I came across and the PCB is compatible. So I didn't have to sacrifice a working game. Also, I didn't realize it was compatible until I saw your pictures/thread...thanks!

    Another Grind Stormer saved, that will be enjoyed for years to come.

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    Thanks yes desoldering and resoldering a chip was new for me but I'm comfy with it now and given the game I really did jump all in on that but for the cheap price I paid it was worth it. And good on you figuring where the failure was as its more than I've seen figured out online about it and you reached a working game using another dead one too so that's good.

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    This thread belonged in the Technical and Restoration Society sub-forum so it was moved.

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    a little off topic for CRTgamer there.

    are those sony wegas that good?
    I've been passing them up left and right for$15 to $20 a pop. should I be buying these?

    I got a MDMU20 PVM recently for cheap too, I knew to grab that

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    Very good crisp and sharp picture. My last non flat panel TV was a 100lb wega I think was 29 inches and had a Wii on if with composite and component and there was a big difference.

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    WEGAs are pretty good as far as consumer monitors go and it is definitely worth having one or two around if you are collecting CRTs. With that said; if your PVM is in good shape and unless you absolutely need a bigger screen or more than 600 TVL (I assume you meant PVM-20M2MDU), any consumer TV would be a downgrade.
    Mario says "... if you do drugs, you go to hell before you die."

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    yea that's the one, basically a white cabinet of the broadcast version....

    I kinda wonder how many buttholes have been shown on screen, I had the info from what doctors office I came from around here.....it was a butt doctor

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    Quote Originally Posted by Niku-Sama View Post
    a little off topic for CRTgamer there.

    are those sony wegas that good?
    I've been passing them up left and right for$15 to $20 a pop. should I be buying these?

    I got a MDMU20 PVM recently for cheap too, I knew to grab that
    Think of the WEGA as an improvement over a Sony PVM in a much larger screen size. Flat CRT, a huge range of inputs, built in surround sound with spare woofer inside and if you find an HD WEGA CRT get the capabilities of 480i-480p-720i-720p-1080i all crystal clear with no upscale issues. yes the TV is very heavy with HD CRTs even more heavier, but then I don't plan on moving my Sonys again.
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    ok so on the topic of CRTs to get.

    KV-27FV300, worth getting?

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