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Thread: N64 No Signal

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    Default N64 No Signal

    So after a hop back to England from Canada and a hefty baggage allowance for the flight back I've finally been reunited with my entire game collection. However I've run in to a problem with my N64.

    Plugged it in (with a plug adapter) switched it on that lovely red light comes on BAM No Signal. Looked it up people saying yeah those old AV cables are abit temperamental, so bought a new one plug it in....still nothing.

    All I get is a the screen kind of flashes twice and then the "no power" info pops back up. I've tried multiple carts, taking our the expansion pack and reinserting and nothing seems to work. It's not the TV, tried it both on my newer big TV but also my old portable that I moved over with me (which it 100% worked with as I played DK64 about 4 years ago on it) plus all my other retro consoles are working through that same TV.

    My only other thing to try was to go to the dollar store and buy some rubbing alcohol and some Q tips to clean the contacts inside the cart slot and the expansion pack.

    There are no known issues with PAL N64 on North American power lines? Like even though the light is lighting up it's not actually getting enough power?

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    Kirby (Level 13) Tanooki's Avatar
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    If it's lighting up and getting power and you exchanged the cable you ruled it out, don't fixate on it.

    If you cleaned the cart and exp pack(why?) how about the cart slot on the system? Get a credit card or thinner but sturdy, wrap a thin cloth (like eyeglasses wipe) around it, wet it with the alcohol and go at it until it comes away clean.

    If that fails, perhaps you have a blown fuse or something just died on the board (trace, other part, perhaps even the a/v jack itself internally).

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    There are no fuses on the motherboard, although the PSU has a cut-off which resets most of the time after a few hours. That isn't relevant though as you have the red light which indicates power is going, at least partly, to the motherboard.

    You can use either any PSU for the N64 that region uses, it is only a voltage regulator to convert AC into 12v DC and 3.43v DC; so whether you're in a 110v AC or 240v AV country, as long as you are using an N64 PSU for that country's mains power, you're ok.

    If the problem persists, then try to clean the pins of the console's game port by using a cotton hankerchief around a credit card, gently rubbing the pins to clean them; other thing is the game carts could have tarnished pins; get a Gamebit screwdriver (hex) to open the game cart and use a pencil eraser to remove the oxidation. Then try again - should work.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bacteria View Post
    There are no fuses on the motherboard, although the PSU has a cut-off which resets most of the time after a few hours. That isn't relevant though as you have the red light which indicates power is going, at least partly, to the motherboard.

    You can use either any PSU for the N64 that region uses, it is only a voltage regulator to convert AC into 12v DC and 3.43v DC; so whether you're in a 110v AC or 240v AV country, as long as you are using an N64 PSU for that country's mains power, you're ok.

    If the problem persists, then try to clean the pins of the console's game port by using a cotton hankerchief around a credit card, gently rubbing the pins to clean them; other thing is the game carts could have tarnished pins; get a Gamebit screwdriver (hex) to open the game cart and use a pencil eraser to remove the oxidation. Then try again - should work.
    Wait sorry I need clarification on the PSU thing. I'm using a UK N64, with the UK power supply plugged in to a travel adapter and it turns on. Is tis ok? It's the same system I have for Wii and Dreamcast and the both work fine.

    Thanks for the cleaning instructions very indepth will try that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by flameboy View Post
    Wait sorry I need clarification on the PSU thing. I'm using a UK N64, with the UK power supply plugged in to a travel adapter and it turns on. Is tis ok? It's the same system I have for Wii and Dreamcast and the both work fine.

    Thanks for the cleaning instructions very indepth will try that.
    Let's see, you're plugging a power supply needing 220 volts into an outlet that only provides 110 volts using a cheap travel adapter that only adapts the physical shape of the plug and converts nothing voltage wise. I'm going to guess that this is the issue causing you problems.

    More modern systems are designed to auto detect and run on different voltage systems but older systems don't work like that. Just use a North American N64 power supply with the console and it should be fine, assuming it hasn't been damaged so far. The input voltage requirements will be physically written on the power adapter, you can check what the UK adapter needs to confirm this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gameguy View Post
    Let's see, you're plugging a power supply needing 220 volts into an outlet that only provides 110 volts using a cheap travel adapter that only adapts the physical shape of the plug and converts nothing voltage wise. I'm going to guess that this is the issue causing you problems.

    More modern systems are designed to auto detect and run on different voltage systems but older systems don't work like that. Just use a North American N64 power supply with the console and it should be fine, assuming it hasn't been damaged so far. The input voltage requirements will be physically written on the power adapter, you can check what the UK adapter needs to confirm this.
    Not a cheap travel adapter particularly....but yeah my question was whether it would turn on at all....the light is still coming on and it is still making the screen flash by contrast original xbox doesn't work at all because the power brick is inside and clearly says on back that it needs 220v. N64 seems to have be labelled with a range that it will work between.

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    Strawberry (Level 2) AdamAnt316's Avatar
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    I just had a thought: were you using the exact same TV four years ago? You mention using a UK N64, which is meant to output a PAL signal, which not all US TVs can handle, given that they're generally meant for NTSC video signals. As for the AC adapter, if it says it takes 220V, then that's what it needs. The brick for the US model is only listed as working with 120V, and the other voltages listed on it are the outputs from the various pins at the appropriate input voltage. Does the travel adapter you're using actually boost the 120V to 240V, or does it merely make one plug fit another outlet? A picture would help.
    -Adam

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    Quote Originally Posted by AdamAnt316 View Post
    I just had a thought: were you using the exact same TV four years ago? You mention using a UK N64, which is meant to output a PAL signal, which not all US TVs can handle, given that they're generally meant for NTSC video signals. As for the AC adapter, if it says it takes 220V, then that's what it needs. The brick for the US model is only listed as working with 120V, and the other voltages listed on it are the outputs from the various pins at the appropriate input voltage. Does the travel adapter you're using actually boost the 120V to 240V, or does it merely make one plug fit another outlet? A picture would help.
    -Adam
    Ok I'm at work now will take pic of the power supply when I get home, I don't think the travel adapter does any boosting even though it is a slightly more expensive model. As for the TV question...yep exact same tv that I moved over some years ago.

    I'd pretty much ruled out the power being an issue because the light is coming on and like I said the screen will kind of flash a brighter black when switched on...but seems I might be wrong.

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    Quote Originally Posted by flameboy View Post
    Ok I'm at work now will take pic of the power supply when I get home, I don't think the travel adapter does any boosting even though it is a slightly more expensive model. As for the TV question...yep exact same tv that I moved over some years ago.

    I'd pretty much ruled out the power being an issue because the light is coming on and like I said the screen will kind of flash a brighter black when switched on...but seems I might be wrong.
    My guess is, there might be enough current to light the power LED, but not enough to run any of the other hardware in the N64. A picture of the plug-in brick of the N64 shouldn't be necessary, just read the markings on the bottom. A picture of the travel adapter might help, though. If it doesn't do any boosting, and the N64 supply needs 230V, either you'll need a boosting adapter, or a US N64 brick (NUS-002(USA)).
    -Adam

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    Quote Originally Posted by flameboy View Post
    Not a cheap travel adapter particularly....but yeah my question was whether it would turn on at all....the light is still coming on and it is still making the screen flash by contrast original xbox doesn't work at all because the power brick is inside and clearly says on back that it needs 220v. N64 seems to have be labelled with a range that it will work between.
    If it wasn't cheap it would be a step converter instead of just a travel adapter, I wasn't talking about the cost you paid for it. I found a picture of an official UK power adapter, it says it needs 230 volts to run. Plenty of older consoles will still light up with less voltage, but they won't play properly or at all.

    http://sayzey.co.uk/wp-content/uploa...602-170647.jpg

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    You can't use a UK power supply with a UK N64 in Canada. The power supply is designed for 220-240V input only. You CAN use a Canadian/US N64 power supply with the UK N64 without an issue. My suspicions are you've blown something somewhere due to the voltage difference.

    I know this because I have a US N64, and used to use a stepdown transformer with it until I got a UK N64 power supply instead. Same applies to the GameCube as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post
    My suspicions are you've blown something somewhere due to the voltage difference.
    I'm not sure if he's necessarily blown something, he hasn't used too much voltage, just not enough. It's similar to when batteries get too weak in a device, it doesn't always damage the item, it just won't work anymore until the batteries are charged or replaced. It might not have been damaged if it hasn't been used too long. I also should mention that it isn't just voltage alone that's an issue, it's also the 50Hz/60Hz difference.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gameguy View Post
    I'm not sure if he's necessarily blown something, he hasn't used too much voltage, just not enough. It's similar to when batteries get too weak in a device, it doesn't always damage the item, it just won't work anymore until the batteries are charged or replaced. It might not have been damaged if it hasn't been used too long. I also should mention that it isn't just voltage alone that's an issue, it's also the 50Hz/60Hz difference.
    Actually, the frequency difference between 50Hz and 60Hz is almost negligible in an application like this. In fact, a power supply designed for 50Hz will probably run slightly cooler on 60Hz. Running a 60Hz power supply on 50Hz would probably make it run a bit warmer, though again, pretty much negligibly so. About the only application where the difference between 50Hz and 60Hz may cause problems is with clocks and other devices which use synchronous motors which lock onto the line frequency, and use it to determine the speed.
    -Adam

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    If my electrical knowledge is correct the frequency is just the ac line flipping back and forth between it's alternating directions so any thing after the power supply shouldn't really be affected by it and the power supply it self should be able to cope like the above said before it gets conveyed to dc.

    If the ac input voltage is too low then the psu will try and make up for it but it can only do so much which is probably why your getting kind if a false start.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gameguy View Post
    I'm not sure if he's necessarily blown something, he hasn't used too much voltage, just not enough. It's similar to when batteries get too weak in a device, it doesn't always damage the item, it just won't work anymore until the batteries are charged or replaced. It might not have been damaged if it hasn't been used too long. I also should mention that it isn't just voltage alone that's an issue, it's also the 50Hz/60Hz difference.
    That's entirely possible too. Only way to find out will be to get a US/Canadian power block for the N64 and try that out on the N64! Getting around the PAL issue might be a bit trickier though, a lot of US TVs only support NTSC.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Niku-Sama View Post
    If my electrical knowledge is correct the frequency is just the ac line flipping back and forth between it's alternating directions so any thing after the power supply shouldn't really be affected by it and the power supply it self should be able to cope like the above said before it gets conveyed to dc.
    Correct. In the old days of linear power supplies, transformers had to be designed based on the line frequency it was intended to be used for. The lower the frequency, the more 'iron' the transformer needs. That's why you'll often find 400Hz power being used in aviation applications in order to save weight on transformer size. Conversely, radios designed in the days when parts of Canada used 25Hz power required transformers which were massive. More about power line frequency can be found here.

    Quote Originally Posted by Niku-Sama View Post
    If the ac input voltage is too low then the psu will try and make up for it but it can only do so much which is probably why your getting kind if a false start.
    Pretty much, yeah. I'm not sure whether the N64 power brick uses voltage regulators or not, but a 240V input power supply running on 120V will output roughly half of the intended voltage. The LED used as the power indicator doesn't require much current in order to light, which is why it'd glow even with half voltage present, but the rest of the circuitry is more power-hungry, so it wouldn't be able to do much at that input level.
    -Adam

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    Quote Originally Posted by AdamAnt316 View Post
    Correct. In the old days of linear power supplies, transformers had to be designed based on the line frequency it was intended to be used for. The lower the frequency, the more 'iron' the transformer needs. That's why you'll often find 400Hz power being used in aviation applications in order to save weight on transformer size. Conversely, radios designed in the days when parts of Canada used 25Hz power required transformers which were massive. More about power line frequency can be found here.



    Pretty much, yeah. I'm not sure whether the N64 power brick uses voltage regulators or not, but a 240V input power supply running on 120V will output roughly half of the intended voltage. The LED used as the power indicator doesn't require much current in order to light, which is why it'd glow even with half voltage present, but the rest of the circuitry is more power-hungry, so it wouldn't be able to do much at that input level.
    -Adam
    Ok good to know. I've finally had time to check my N64 and it is indeed the PAL one that has been posted further up^.

    So my question to everyone what would the better solution? Order a replacement N64 power supply or go for some kinda of step up converter like this;

    http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002...A2O5IPLWDUVMNZ

    which I could then use on other devices as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by flameboy View Post
    Ok good to know. I've finally had time to check my N64 and it is indeed the PAL one that has been posted further up^.

    So my question to everyone what would the better solution? Order a replacement N64 power supply or go for some kinda of step up converter like this;

    http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002...A2O5IPLWDUVMNZ

    which I could then use on other devices as well.
    To me, it would be easier to just get a US power supply for your N64, since it's an option. Keep your UK supply around in case you go back there at some point, but using a travel booster with it would be kinda wasteful, IMO. If you have other UK devices which operate on 240V, that step-up should be fine (provided said devices are within its ratings, of course), but be mindful of the frequency difference as I mentioned earlier. Most devices won't be affected, but if any of them rely on line frequency to govern speed (line-powered clocks, older record players), operation will be affected (nothing dangerous, they just will run faster than intended). Hope this helps.
    -Adam

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    Quote Originally Posted by AdamAnt316 View Post
    To me, it would be easier to just get a US power supply for your N64, since it's an option. Keep your UK supply around in case you go back there at some point, but using a travel booster with it would be kinda wasteful, IMO. If you have other UK devices which operate on 240V, that step-up should be fine (provided said devices are within its ratings, of course), but be mindful of the frequency difference as I mentioned earlier. Most devices won't be affected, but if any of them rely on line frequency to govern speed (line-powered clocks, older record players), operation will be affected (nothing dangerous, they just will run faster than intended). Hope this helps.
    -Adam
    See I have an old original Xbox as well which now I've looked clearly says 220v on the back of it...so I could use the step up for that too...I was looking on amazon saw this;

    http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002...A2O5IPLWDUVMNZ

    or is this overkill? Trouble I've had is shopping on amazon.ca it's given me canadian to uk travel adapters...I've noticed somethings like the travel kit below saying its only for use for 15 mins at a time

    http://www.voltageconverters.ca/p-11...-50-1600w.aspx

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    i'd say that's overkill, for the N64 that is.
    check a thrift or local game shop if you have one and they'll probably have a N64 brick and then you just jam it in there

    being PAL though are there going to be video signal problems or do you have a set that handles PAL too?

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