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Thread: Sharp NES freezing up

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    the CPU/PPU (IC5/IC6) would have to get really noticeably hot to cause a lock up.
    what manual says to NOT use thermal compound on the thermal regulator? I might stick some on there, from what I read it got you some more time before it locked up again.
    I'd be on the look out for a weak solder joint, it could be fine when its cold but a bit of heat could cause it to move so its not making a connection.

    I'd start with a cool board and start pressing on and wiggling chips very carefully as to not short any thing out but to also see if you can cause a game to freeze because of a loose connection


    sadly a board swap isn't possible with out a lot of modification to a toaster board, the whole right side of the board is different, that blue connector is just 5 connections. if I remember right that would be power button, reset and LED.
    the sharp NES board has 9 connections where the blue one is at on the toaster and it looks like they re routed video and power input to come through the same spot and got rid of the connections in the bottom corner for the power and video thingy box.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Niku-Sama View Post
    the CPU/PPU (IC5/IC6) would have to get really noticeably hot to cause a lock up.
    what manual says to NOT use thermal compound on the thermal regulator? I might stick some on there, from what I read it got you some more time before it locked up again.
    I read not to use conductive thermal compound. All I can figure is in case some of it spreads and causes a short? Anyway, I did use some non-conductive paste I had.

    I'd be on the look out for a weak solder joint, it could be fine when its cold but a bit of heat could cause it to move so its not making a connection.

    I'd start with a cool board and start pressing on and wiggling chips very carefully as to not short any thing out but to also see if you can cause a game to freeze because of a loose connection


    sadly a board swap isn't possible with out a lot of modification to a toaster board, the whole right side of the board is different, that blue connector is just 5 connections. if I remember right that would be power button, reset and LED.
    the sharp NES board has 9 connections where the blue one is at on the toaster and it looks like they re routed video and power input to come through the same spot and got rid of the connections in the bottom corner for the power and video thingy box.
    That's a test method I haven't come across. I'll give it a shot. As for a swap, yeah, I'm sure it's possible, but it'd well beyond my capability.

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    I pulled out my father-in-law's old oscilloscope, and it just sizzled and didn't do anything. The thing is ancient, and has paper caps and vacuum tubes, so I guess it isn't too surprising it doesn't work. Guess that's another project? :/

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    hmm I wonder if its an old HP like one I saved from a dumpster. they sound like that but warm up eventually. that being said I have never used it. no probes, and probably way out of calibration.

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    Okay, so I'm coming back to this after a hiatus. I figure I'll go ahead and swap CPU/PPUs with a known good NES. As demonstrated above, I don't really know what I'm doing. I searched for 40 pin IC sockets on Mousr, but I get tons of results. Does it matter? Anyone have a favorite they'd recommend?

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    Any dual wipe socket will do and it is what I recommend. Avoid machine pin sockets. Yes they're considered 'military grade' components and are touted often as being more reliable but I feel that philosophy ignores real world application. The Sharp TV board's not getting subjected to the high vibration environment of an armored personnel carrier.

    The legs of the NES CPU and PPU are flat, which a dual wipe applies more contact to than a machine pin and its round holes. Dual wipes have a higher success rate of remove/insertion cycles, plus machine pin sockets are brutally difficult to desolder if you ever wish to remove them.

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    Great info, I've now read about and have some understanding of dual vs single wipe sockets. I can't find anywhere that Mouser specifies 'dual wipe', but from a recommendation/product sheet I found elsewhere I settled on these sockets: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...u%2fvuSQ%3d%3d

    And in the cart, the thing says dual wipe, but nowhere on the item page itself. Weird.

    Now, should I order sockets for the other ICs? Adds about $8.


    Just listing what I might need here. Plan to socket the donor board, but maybe shouldn't bother?:
    4 40pin 0.6"
    10 16pin 0.3"
    4 24pin 0.3"
    50v 2.2uF BP cap

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    I wouldn't go to the trouble of socketing absolutely everything except as a last resort, some things like the audio amp chips aren't going to cause the system to lock up, just wouldn't output sound. At least I wouldn't think they could freeze the NES.

    Cannot see the benefit of socketing a capacitor if you've already changed it out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bratwurst View Post
    I wouldn't go to the trouble of socketing absolutely everything except as a last resort, some things like the audio amp chips aren't going to cause the system to lock up, just wouldn't output sound. At least I wouldn't think they could freeze the NES.

    Cannot see the benefit of socketing a capacitor if you've already changed it out.
    Hah! Yeah, the cap is on there just because I need to order one, no plans to socket or anything. My initial order didn't include that bipolar cap because I just ordered based on a list for a regular NES I saw somewhere... never thought the Sharp NES would be different.

    Thanks for the advice!

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    i'm still not entirely convinced that its the cpu or ppu.

    did you ever try the hair drier thing?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Niku-Sama View Post
    i'm still not entirely convinced that its the cpu or ppu.

    did you ever try the hair drier thing?
    Yeah, I did, but it didn't seem to have an effect. So overheating doesn't seem to be the problem, as much as that would explain things. I'm assuming a chip could fail and cause lockups/glitches without overheating, but maybe that's not the case? Should I get a logic probe (and learn how to use it)?

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    do you have any access to a flash cart at all?

    could load the test cart rom to it and see if it comes back with any thing.

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    No, I don't. Hmmm.

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