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Thread: 72-pin replacements devalue the NES- thoughts?

  1. #21
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    Guess im in the minority because ill pay more for original

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    Quote Originally Posted by gbpxl View Post
    Guess im in the minority because ill pay more for original
    Actually you're not in the minority, number matching greatly affects the value in collector cars. An all original car would have proper matching numbers and would be worth more money. If parts like the engine, transmission, rear-axle assembly, or the frame are replaced then the numbers won't match properly anymore and the value of the car would be affected.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Number_matching
    https://www.newsday.com/classifieds/...sals-1.6154213

    It's true that other minor parts would be replaced due to general maintenance, but there's a difference between using genuine OEM replacement parts and aftermarket parts. Aftermarket parts are cheaper than OEM parts because OEM is worth more.


    This is entirely different when compared to electronics. They won't need the same types of replacement parts compared to a car, although belts and rubber parts are expected to need replacing in cassette players and VCRs. The quality of the replacement parts used matters too, especially in valuable electronics like high end stereo equipment. I have a friend who restores old equipment, with high end amplifiers needing new capacitors he'll replace them with the correct high quality replacements, using cheaper or different brand capacitors with the same values will still apparently affect the sound quality. When speakers need refoaming he'll make sure to use the correct replacements, he won't use the cheapest replacement foams available. I forget which brand of speakers he told me about but showed me a pair someone was selling online and explained to me how they obviously had the foams replaced as they were the wrong colour for that brand, whoever replaced them used cheap parts which affects the value.

    The main issue I have with replacement pin connectors is that I have no idea what quality the replacement is. There's no brand name stamped on the parts to read reviews, they're all just generic replacements made by random companies. It's different than me doing research and buying a replacement from a known good company. It's just enough that I don't want to bother dealing with replacements, I'll probably have to replace the connector again on my own and when originals would be working just fine it makes little sense to me to bother dealing with replacements.

    I prefer things to be kept as original as possible. It's like people only wanting original controllers over 3rd party, how many times have people on this forum passed on cheap looking controllers over the years? I still remember buying a Genesis bundle years ago where the console came with a replacement adapter, it was underpowered with the amperage and the first thing I did was buy a correct replacement adapter for the console. I had a Super Famicom come with a generic AV cable and the sound wasn't working when I tried it out, I replaced the AV cable with a genuine first party cable and it worked fine. Having to start replacing parts costs me extra time and money, when I notice things are missing or 3rd party I pay less because I expect to have problems when I get home.

  3. #23
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    Oh, buying a collector car like a 'Vette is different from buying electronics, but if you're wanting to drive it, you'll want to have one that can be driven. Neither example would have proof (zero miles on the odo) that they are drivable. The second example is only worth more because it would be OOOH SHINY NEW compared to the first and attracts more overfinanced idiots. OTOH, Chevy OEM for their V8s (which the Vette almost certainly has) is relatively simple to acquire. OTGH, keeping matched numbers is still a worthy feat in and of itself.

    I agree that having this nondescript, wild aftermarket stuff be the only consistent source for console replacement parts is a big problem. Rolling the dice every time you need to swap out even the simplest part should not be something even an enthusiast needs to put up with. I wouldn't buy the NES with aftermarket pins unless I got to see the thing and checked how it behaved first. At the very least, I'd check up on the seller and make sure they're on the level.
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    And if someone was ridiculous with wanting "original parts" when doing repairs, down to buying parts from the same manufacturer, year, or even batches...well, then they'd be replacing the original capacitor plague parts with more capacitor plague parts.
    "Game programmers are generally lazy individuals. That's right. It's true. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Since the dawn of computer games, game programmers have looked for shortcuts to coolness." Kurt Arnlund - Game programmer for Activision, Accolade...

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    On the subject of all original parts, I wonder if there are any collectors of CIB handhelds who don't consider them complete without the AA batteries. I've actually held on to some myself, as stupid as I'm sure some people would think that is. To no great surprise, the batteries for my original GBA eventually started leaking, so I ended up throwing those out. Weirdly enough, those crapped out faster than the ones that came with my GBC.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aussie2B View Post
    On the subject of all original parts, I wonder if there are any collectors of CIB handhelds who don't consider them complete without the AA batteries. I've actually held on to some myself, as stupid as I'm sure some people would think that is. To no great surprise, the batteries for my original GBA eventually started leaking, so I ended up throwing those out. Weirdly enough, those crapped out faster than the ones that came with my GBC.
    I have unused original batteries from an Odyssey 1 and a Pong with the little paper strip on the top contact that I keep separate from the actual units. I doubt they will leak at this point, but it's better to be safe than sorry.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by WulfeLuer View Post
    Oh, buying a collector car like a 'Vette is different from buying electronics, but if you're wanting to drive it, you'll want to have one that can be driven. Neither example would have proof (zero miles on the odo) that they are drivable. The second example is only worth more because it would be OOOH SHINY NEW compared to the first and attracts more overfinanced idiots. OTOH, Chevy OEM for their V8s (which the Vette almost certainly has) is relatively simple to acquire. OTGH, keeping matched numbers is still a worthy feat in and of itself.
    The original topic question was mostly about value, and having something completely original does make it more valuable. If a console is already beat up and not wanted by collectors who are looking for pristine examples, then having a functional console will be more valuable than a non-functional console. But if given a choice between two working consoles where one has an original connector and the other has the connector replaced, I will choose the original connector every time.

    Quote Originally Posted by WulfeLuer View Post
    I agree that having this nondescript, wild aftermarket stuff be the only consistent source for console replacement parts is a big problem. Rolling the dice every time you need to swap out even the simplest part should not be something even an enthusiast needs to put up with. I wouldn't buy the NES with aftermarket pins unless I got to see the thing and checked how it behaved first. At the very least, I'd check up on the seller and make sure they're on the level.
    It's this needing to check out the console first that's a bit of a problem. Usually I would pick things up from garage sales, thrift stores, or classified ads. I don't usually have the option to test things out first before buying. And when people just buy used systems to flip after just getting things running, they'll spend as little as possible buying replacement parts. There's a good chance a working new connector would still die in a few months of use. I would usually have to know the seller personally to consider buying a console that's been "repaired" like that. As I don't need more NES consoles personally it's easier for me to just pass on them.

    Quote Originally Posted by jb143 View Post
    And if someone was ridiculous with wanting "original parts" when doing repairs, down to buying parts from the same manufacturer, year, or even batches...well, then they'd be replacing the original capacitor plague parts with more capacitor plague parts.
    It's not necessarily about replacing them with the same year or batch, although capacitors can be rebuilt sometimes or reformed. It's mostly about replacing them with parts that truly perform at the same specs as the original at the same quality. It's a bit beyond my personal wants as I just want quality parts to be used but I'm not into high end equipment the same way.

    https://makezine.com/projects/capaci...fun-or-profit/
    https://www.qsl.net/g3oou/reform.html

    Quote Originally Posted by Aussie2B View Post
    On the subject of all original parts, I wonder if there are any collectors of CIB handhelds who don't consider them complete without the AA batteries. I've actually held on to some myself, as stupid as I'm sure some people would think that is. To no great surprise, the batteries for my original GBA eventually started leaking, so I ended up throwing those out. Weirdly enough, those crapped out faster than the ones that came with my GBC.
    Partly yes, some vintage batteries are quite expensive on ebay. Again it more depends on the general condition, they don't necessarily have to still work but they usually can't be corroded.

    It's like collecting old pop cans or bottles, they're worth more sealed even though nobody expects the contents to still be drinkable.

  8. #28
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    Yeah, that's what I meant, unused and still sealed in their plastic. I never held on to any batteries I actually used, but sometimes I wouldn't even bothering opening the ones systems came with. But even with being unused and sealed, my GBA batteries started leaking, and the battery acid burned right through the plastic they were sealed in.

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