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Thread: Opinion: "Custom"/"modded"/"hacked" devalues it

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    Default Opinion: "Custom"/"modded"/"hacked" devalues it

    I know that I've talked about this before, but due to the fact that every year, more and more game systems, cartridges and accessories get butchered in order to "modernize" them, the fewer unadultered, virgin, original pieces of hardware there are on the marketplace. A real collector, i.e. someone who has the money, is not going to seek out systems with modified screens, or "new pin connectors" new A/V ports, custom LED lights, etc. They want ORIGINAL and functional equipment. And secondary to that, they want functional equipment with minimal replaced parts just to get it actually working.

    I saw an ad for an original arcade machine that said something to the effect of "new LCD that replaces the old outdated CRT". Ummm... isn't the game itself "outdated?" Have you ever played an arcade machine with a modded LCD display? It looks like absolute garbage!! Like you'd rather stick knives in your eyes than look at it.

    Now... if the screen is dead and there is zero option for replacing it with the same size CRT tube, fine. Put in an LCD. But that is a last resort. Keep it true to the feeling of playing the game in 1989.

    Agree/disagree?
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    I pretty much just want original unmodified systems, I avoid altered ones like NES systems with new connectors. The exceptions are systems with mod chips like PS1s or PS2s, those would be more monetarily valuable modified. I still would want unmodified systems too but the modified ones in that case would be useful to have as well.

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    On the one hand, I wouldn't want someone who cut up an older console to add new audio / video outputs.

    On the other, the new pin connectors on the NES look and function exactly the same. It's a replacement part - my old one was so corroded the thing wouldn't work. I want a working system, not a brick. Even classic cars need to have their hose lines and rusted mufflers replaced from time to time.
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    I can't trust new NES connectors to be good quality as so many companies make replacements and none have their manufacturing names on them. As I don't trust them I just stay away from them entirely. This isn't the same as replacing capacitors or a voltage regulator, it's more like replacing the stock rear view mirror in a vintage car with a modern generic replacement, some things really need to be kept OEM.

    I do clean the OEM connectors with a good cleaning kit and they work like new. Most people don't do this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gameguy View Post
    I can't trust new NES connectors to be good quality as so many companies make replacements and none have their manufacturing names on them. As I don't trust them I just stay away from them entirely. This isn't the same as replacing capacitors or a voltage regulator, it's more like replacing the stock rear view mirror in a vintage car with a modern generic replacement, some things really need to be kept OEM.

    I do clean the OEM connectors with a good cleaning kit and they work like new. Most people don't do this.
    I agree with all of this.
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    ServBot (Level 11) Edmond Dantes's Avatar
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    I personally care more about the device functioning than I do about how much of it is genuine OEM parts.

    If I ever get a Game Gear again, you can bet I'm gonna get one with a new screen and replaced capacitors, because I don't want issues. I just want games to work.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gameguy View Post
    I pretty much just want original unmodified systems, I avoid altered ones like NES systems with new connectors. The exceptions are systems with mod chips like PS1s or PS2s, those would be more monetarily valuable modified. I still would want unmodified systems too but the modified ones in that case would be useful to have as well.
    Someone recently found how you can run content on an unmodded PS2.

    https://kotaku.com/ps2-hack-runs-gam...-re-1844197947
    Everything in the above post is opinion unless stated otherwise.

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    Modded systems can be cool, but then I end up wanting both a modded and unmodded copy of each system. For example I like my new backlit DMG Game Boy, but I still keep a couple unmodded DMGs too. I have no reason to buy any HDMI modded consoles because I also collected enough CRTs to probably last me a lifetime. If I want to run something on HDMI why not just use an emulation based system like a modded classic mini or my laptops?
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    Quote Originally Posted by kupomogli View Post
    Someone recently found how you can run content on an unmodded PS2.

    https://kotaku.com/ps2-hack-runs-gam...-re-1844197947
    That's really neat, I think I heard about this earlier but didn't look too much into it then. While it does work, it hasn't been made for every PS2 firmware version so it's not entirely practical, at least not yet. And it's about 15 years too late so using a mod chip or soft modded memory card is already the most accepted options.

    I also didn't know the PS4 dropped CD support so that's something new I learned. It kind of sucks as the console is less functional now. I would want as much compatibility available as possible, I personally use CDs more than Blu Rays.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rickstilwell1 View Post
    Modded systems can be cool, but then I end up wanting both a modded and unmodded copy of each system.
    That's what I do. I own several PS1 and PS2 consoles, I usually just use the modded systems just for homebrew or translations, I don't want to wear out the lasers when I could just use stock systems for normal games.

    I wouldn't mind modded handhelds with added backlights like the GBA, Gameboy Color, and Gameboy Pocket, etc. I just never wanted to pay much for these as the GBA SP is already backlit. Finding modded PS1s and PS2s for cheap wasn't too bad around 10 years ago. I still prefer keeping systems original as much as possible, especially with more rare consoles like the Nomad. Repairs are different than mods.

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    I'm fine with internal upgrades as long as they are done properly and cleanly. I have four RGB-modded consoles and they all look completely original on the outside. I also added power LEDs to my AV Famicom and SNES Jr.

    As for "real collectors", who cares? For every so-called collector there are dozens of real gamers happily paying premiums for modded hardware. And it's not like unmolested versions of these consoles are hard to find.

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    Of course when you buy a used system already repaired you can't be sure how well the repair actually was performed. Lots of people when replacing caps in Game Gears and other consoles are starting to use tantalum caps instead of the original electrolytic type capacitors as tantalum ones have a longer life and won't leak, unfortunately the circuitry is designed to use electrolytic caps so when those tantalum caps eventually fail the console will be damaged as the circuitry isn't protected for that type of failure, it will damage irreplaceable chips when it fails. I know someone who told me he paid around $80 to have the caps replaced in his Game Gear with tantalum caps, I just hope in 20 years the system won't just die beyond repair. Atari 2600 consoles are around 40 years old now and are usually still working, I'm really hoping consoles from the 90's can still make it that long as well.
    .
    I don't understand why your worried about this? Tantalum caps ARE electrolytic caps just designed a little different. The only time I could see it being a concern is in maybe something like a regulated power supply where your concerned about very specific ESR values. Other than that the only concern anyone ahould have with Tantalum is that they cost more.

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    Quote Originally Posted by leatherrebel5150 View Post
    I don't understand why your worried about this? Tantalum caps ARE electrolytic caps just designed a little different. The only time I could see it being a concern is in maybe something like a regulated power supply where your concerned about very specific ESR values. Other than that the only concern anyone ahould have with Tantalum is that they cost more.
    From what I've read, tantalum caps fail as a short circuit while the electrolytic caps I've mentioned usually just fail open. That short circuit can damage components or potentially cause physical damage to the circuit board.

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    Whenever I replace something in a car or console or anything else I try to get as close to the original as I can
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