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Thread: Opinion: "Custom"/"modded"/"hacked" devalues it

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    Default Opinion: "Custom"/"modded"/"hacked" devalues it

    I know that I've talked about this before, but due to the fact that every year, more and more game systems, cartridges and accessories get butchered in order to "modernize" them, the fewer unadultered, virgin, original pieces of hardware there are on the marketplace. A real collector, i.e. someone who has the money, is not going to seek out systems with modified screens, or "new pin connectors" new A/V ports, custom LED lights, etc. They want ORIGINAL and functional equipment. And secondary to that, they want functional equipment with minimal replaced parts just to get it actually working.

    I saw an ad for an original arcade machine that said something to the effect of "new LCD that replaces the old outdated CRT". Ummm... isn't the game itself "outdated?" Have you ever played an arcade machine with a modded LCD display? It looks like absolute garbage!! Like you'd rather stick knives in your eyes than look at it.

    Now... if the screen is dead and there is zero option for replacing it with the same size CRT tube, fine. Put in an LCD. But that is a last resort. Keep it true to the feeling of playing the game in 1989.

    Agree/disagree?
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    I pretty much just want original unmodified systems, I avoid altered ones like NES systems with new connectors. The exceptions are systems with mod chips like PS1s or PS2s, those would be more monetarily valuable modified. I still would want unmodified systems too but the modified ones in that case would be useful to have as well.

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    On the one hand, I wouldn't want someone who cut up an older console to add new audio / video outputs.

    On the other, the new pin connectors on the NES look and function exactly the same. It's a replacement part - my old one was so corroded the thing wouldn't work. I want a working system, not a brick. Even classic cars need to have their hose lines and rusted mufflers replaced from time to time.
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    I can't trust new NES connectors to be good quality as so many companies make replacements and none have their manufacturing names on them. As I don't trust them I just stay away from them entirely. This isn't the same as replacing capacitors or a voltage regulator, it's more like replacing the stock rear view mirror in a vintage car with a modern generic replacement, some things really need to be kept OEM.

    I do clean the OEM connectors with a good cleaning kit and they work like new. Most people don't do this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gameguy View Post
    I can't trust new NES connectors to be good quality as so many companies make replacements and none have their manufacturing names on them. As I don't trust them I just stay away from them entirely. This isn't the same as replacing capacitors or a voltage regulator, it's more like replacing the stock rear view mirror in a vintage car with a modern generic replacement, some things really need to be kept OEM.

    I do clean the OEM connectors with a good cleaning kit and they work like new. Most people don't do this.
    I agree with all of this.
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    I personally care more about the device functioning than I do about how much of it is genuine OEM parts.

    If I ever get a Game Gear again, you can bet I'm gonna get one with a new screen and replaced capacitors, because I don't want issues. I just want games to work.

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    The main reason why I only want original connectors for the NES is because almost all replacement ones are crap that break down in mere months or damage carts with a death grip. Repairing a console to be functional is perfectly fine, I just don't want it repaired with poor quality parts. It's like with replacing save batteries in carts, I want it done right, not just have the cheapest leak-prone batteries taped in with electrical tape. Obviously new capacitors are needed for repairs, but these are made by various companies and you can easily choose quality trusted ones over the cheapest poor quality ones as they're all marked by the manufacturers and quality ones are well known among the people who use them.

    Of course when you buy a used system already repaired you can't be sure how well the repair actually was performed. Lots of people when replacing caps in Game Gears and other consoles are starting to use tantalum caps instead of the original electrolytic type capacitors as tantalum ones have a longer life and won't leak, unfortunately the circuitry is designed to use electrolytic caps so when those tantalum caps eventually fail the console will be damaged as the circuitry isn't protected for that type of failure, it will damage irreplaceable chips when it fails. I know someone who told me he paid around $80 to have the caps replaced in his Game Gear with tantalum caps, I just hope in 20 years the system won't just die beyond repair. Atari 2600 consoles are around 40 years old now and are usually still working, I'm really hoping consoles from the 90's can still make it that long as well.

    As another example, talk to car mechanics. There are plenty of cheaper aftermarket parts that they will gladly use as replacements as they're just as good or even better than OEM, like with brake pads and rotors. But they know certain aftermarket parts aren't good quality and will stick to OEM parts instead as certain aftermarket parts are junk and will fail quickly, leading to unhappy customers demanding the issues be fixed again. It depends on what needs replacing.

    With original NES connectors, the various used systems I've got over the years have been cleaned by me with a certain cleaning kit I find better than the original Nintendo ones. How do I start my games? I insert the cartridge, press down, and press the power button. Games start up right away about 8/10 times, and when it doesn't then a quick adjustment and a reset usually gets it to start up. The few times it doesn't start immediately are because the connectors are worn or dirty on the cartridge I'm trying to play, I don't spend minutes struggling to get games to boot except for really poor condition carts that aren't just needing to be cleaned. I try to avoid beat up games like this anyway when possible. I don't understand why so many people are still struggling with these connectors as they're far more reliable than the aftermarket ones.

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    Of course when you buy a used system already repaired you can't be sure how well the repair actually was performed. Lots of people when replacing caps in Game Gears and other consoles are starting to use tantalum caps instead of the original electrolytic type capacitors as tantalum ones have a longer life and won't leak, unfortunately the circuitry is designed to use electrolytic caps so when those tantalum caps eventually fail the console will be damaged as the circuitry isn't protected for that type of failure, it will damage irreplaceable chips when it fails. I know someone who told me he paid around $80 to have the caps replaced in his Game Gear with tantalum caps, I just hope in 20 years the system won't just die beyond repair. Atari 2600 consoles are around 40 years old now and are usually still working, I'm really hoping consoles from the 90's can still make it that long as well.
    .
    I don't understand why your worried about this? Tantalum caps ARE electrolytic caps just designed a little different. The only time I could see it being a concern is in maybe something like a regulated power supply where your concerned about very specific ESR values. Other than that the only concern anyone ahould have with Tantalum is that they cost more.

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    Quote Originally Posted by leatherrebel5150 View Post
    I don't understand why your worried about this? Tantalum caps ARE electrolytic caps just designed a little different. The only time I could see it being a concern is in maybe something like a regulated power supply where your concerned about very specific ESR values. Other than that the only concern anyone ahould have with Tantalum is that they cost more.
    From what I've read, tantalum caps fail as a short circuit while the electrolytic caps I've mentioned usually just fail open. That short circuit can damage components or potentially cause physical damage to the circuit board.

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    Whenever I replace something in a car or console or anything else I try to get as close to the original as I can
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gameguy View Post
    I pretty much just want original unmodified systems, I avoid altered ones like NES systems with new connectors. The exceptions are systems with mod chips like PS1s or PS2s, those would be more monetarily valuable modified. I still would want unmodified systems too but the modified ones in that case would be useful to have as well.
    Someone recently found how you can run content on an unmodded PS2.

    https://kotaku.com/ps2-hack-runs-gam...-re-1844197947
    Everything in the above post is opinion unless stated otherwise.

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    Modded systems can be cool, but then I end up wanting both a modded and unmodded copy of each system. For example I like my new backlit DMG Game Boy, but I still keep a couple unmodded DMGs too. I have no reason to buy any HDMI modded consoles because I also collected enough CRTs to probably last me a lifetime. If I want to run something on HDMI why not just use an emulation based system like a modded classic mini or my laptops?
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    Quote Originally Posted by kupomogli View Post
    Someone recently found how you can run content on an unmodded PS2.

    https://kotaku.com/ps2-hack-runs-gam...-re-1844197947
    That's really neat, I think I heard about this earlier but didn't look too much into it then. While it does work, it hasn't been made for every PS2 firmware version so it's not entirely practical, at least not yet. And it's about 15 years too late so using a mod chip or soft modded memory card is already the most accepted options.

    I also didn't know the PS4 dropped CD support so that's something new I learned. It kind of sucks as the console is less functional now. I would want as much compatibility available as possible, I personally use CDs more than Blu Rays.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rickstilwell1 View Post
    Modded systems can be cool, but then I end up wanting both a modded and unmodded copy of each system.
    That's what I do. I own several PS1 and PS2 consoles, I usually just use the modded systems just for homebrew or translations, I don't want to wear out the lasers when I could just use stock systems for normal games.

    I wouldn't mind modded handhelds with added backlights like the GBA, Gameboy Color, and Gameboy Pocket, etc. I just never wanted to pay much for these as the GBA SP is already backlit. Finding modded PS1s and PS2s for cheap wasn't too bad around 10 years ago. I still prefer keeping systems original as much as possible, especially with more rare consoles like the Nomad. Repairs are different than mods.

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    I'm fine with internal upgrades as long as they are done properly and cleanly. I have four RGB-modded consoles and they all look completely original on the outside. I also added power LEDs to my AV Famicom and SNES Jr.

    As for "real collectors", who cares? For every so-called collector there are dozens of real gamers happily paying premiums for modded hardware. And it's not like unmolested versions of these consoles are hard to find.

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    not hard to find right now. gets harder and harder each year though. good luck finding a virgin NES in 2030
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    i've got a closet full

    i think it depends on the console, if theres a known problem and theres a mod out there to fix like to the vectrex hum, then i dont think it hurts value but i also dont think it makes it much more valuable if at all.

    My NES toploader i bought not working and it had a roasted PPU, i scored a working replacement off of a lone bare NES toaster board to stick in the top loader, with a socket just in case. is it modified, technically. is it worth any more, well again technically because it works now. i dont think it would hurt the value either if any one asks, sure the PPU is in the socket now but again, it works where as before when i got it, it didnt.

    i can make other examples of this but i dont feel the need

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    It really depends on the situation, there's plenty of common failures where some mods are needed to actually repair an item as there are high failure rates with stock hardware. It's like this a lot with vintage computers, like adding heat sinks to RAM chips or installing sockets so future repairs will be much easier, replacing stock ROM chips with eproms as original replacements aren't available(I still don't like this if an original can be tracked down), or adding additional circuitry to protect components from surges or other poor engineering problems when originally built.

    It's a bit different compared to modifying the video or audio output to run in ways completely different from the original outputs. Again it's just a personal preference of mine.

    I've seen some people complain about the Genesis having horrible sound quality compared to the SNES, and playing a game on an emulator or aftermarket system as an example to show others. In the example, it really sounded like crap, but I have the same game and on actual original hardware it sounds nothing like that at all. So various people are agreeing with this person on how awful the Genesis sound really is based on that, and it's unfair because I know it's wrong because of the hardware being used. This is why I'm big on original hardware so much.

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    there is a wide range of sound quality among the many revisions of the Genesis
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    Quote Originally Posted by gbpxl View Post
    there is a wide range of sound quality among the many revisions of the Genesis
    That's true, but none of the official systems have the sound completely broken with missing sections of the music and added random beeps inserted instead.

    There are actual mods to fix the audio on some Sega Genesis variants too actually.

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