Sega CD model 2 - Popping fuses constantly. Also has disk scraping. (Edit - Fixed, but still won't shut off.)

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I bought a Sega CD model 2 from Facebook Marketplace in Mid-May 2024.

First, it had burnt grease spilled in the disc tray door spring area, and also some chicken soup spilled near there and into both the tray and down the eject button. That was easily remedied.

Fuse:

Now, I'm having issues with it staying on. I removed the stock blown fuse, and I soldered in a wire harness with a fuse holder that I picked up from Tractor Supply. I'm trying to use common Glass Fuses in it, but it's repeatedly blowing fuses.

I've used:

1.5 amp (worked the most)
2.0 amp (worked some of the time before frying)
3.0 amp (none of these worked, they blasted instantly.)

Capacitors:

From what I gather, these systems sometimes have capacitors that can go bad. But the problem is that there are different versions of a Sega CD 2 - some have a Sony board, some have an Optima board. Some have "SOH0t" lasers, some have "KSS" lasers. And they also probably used whatever capacitors they could get their hands on at the time, and right now, I don't know how to make my way through this mess or if it's really relevant to my issues with this system.

What I'm trying to figure out here is, what capacitors should I use? Is there a guide to recapping one of these already? (I looked, but couldn't find one in the time I looked.) Or is there some sort of a capacitor kit that I can get?

Discs Scraping the Tray and the Proposed Remedy:

And as for the discs scraping the bottom - I seem to have already figured that out, but I thought I'd mention it anyway. This fellow, samson7point1, made a guide on some Sega CD Repairs in 2019. One of them was about the dampers that hold the CD unit, and he said that the dampers on his had degraded over time, so he replaced them with shock absorption balls for a Drone. The type he used (and then the type that he linked to) both got discontinued, but if you look on eBay for ones of the right size, it should still work.

https://yesterware.blogspot.com/2019...revisited.html

- Austin

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UPDATE:

As it turned out, the RF Shielding was shorting out the system. That shouldn't be happening, but it's part of the cause of the problem. I had removed the shielding and the CD Motor / Drive Assembly at the same time (yes, you can run the main board with no disc drive attached.) I ran the main board for a while, and it didn't pop a fuse.

Later, I put the shielding back, and the problem returned. So I put Electrical Tape on the inner side of the bottom shielding, and that fixed the issue.

Now, whatever was touching the shielding is still touching, so I didn't fix everything with the utmost degree of work here. But it's still functional. The board has some leaky capacitor residue on it, so something's goofed up around here.

...

As for the disc drive's dampers (mounts) being too low, I just put a lock washer screw under each one, making sure they were the same size by measuring them with digital calipers. They are about 0.040" inches thick. This is working for now, but I don't know if it's going to last very long.

...

However, now I have another curious problem: this SCD 2 is not shutting off when I turn off the Genesis. I tried it with 2 different Model 1 Genesis consoles, and it persists between both of them. I can even take the Genesis Console and detach it from the SCD, and the SCD still remains on, reading discs. I thought I saw someone mention this problem on Reddit, but I've lost the post, so I guess I'll just have to ask again.

Perhaps there's a short on the board that caused the system to pop fuses through the RF shielding, and the same short is causing the system to not shut off. The electrical tape may be there, but the short may remain.

- Austin