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Thread: Commodore 1702 monitor SAFETY TIPS PLS

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    Default Commodore 1702 monitor SAFETY TIPS PLS

    I was using this as a tv (for gaming purposes) in my room, as the front inputs are quite useful. However, one day it just wouldn't turn on. I know very little about monitors, so I would have to read up on precautions etc. if I attempt to take it apart. Is this something that I might be able to fix (I can solder, albeit slowly), should I give it away to someone else if they can fix it, or should I curb it? I really like these monitors but I haven't seen any around in years, so if this one worked again I'd be quite happy. Thanks. T.

    ***EDIT***
    Can anyone refer me to somewhere where I can read about taking the proper precautions when opening/fixing a monitor? I'd like to see if it's something simple like soldering the power switch before I junk it. Thanks!
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    Opening a Monitor (or TV) is never a good idea unless you know what you're doing...my friend got zapped by one before... not pleasent.

    As for your problem...

    The Switch does'nt seem to be "off" in anyway? I don't mean physically "off" but the spring (or whatever forces the switch forward/backwards) seems to be fine, right? Mine did that...my friend went in there.... moved something a little..and POOF. worked again....

    ~Rocky.,

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    The switch does seem to latch fine. I turned it on again with inputs into the front, but got no audio or video, nor was the power led lit up. Something smelled a little fried though. I'll see if the guys at the local gaming store want to take a look at it, otherwise I'll probably curb it.
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    I have had 2 or 3 Commodore monitors die on me just as you describe. What I do now is trash them and get another monitor. Every time I see one in a Thrift for $5.00 I pick it up so that I always have a spare or two around.

    Some day there will not be any more in the thrifts and I would love to know if there is a easy fix for them also.

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    I've done simple repairs like soldering the on/off button back to the mainboard. But if the button seems fine then I dunno. Well, it was actually more of a "oh man, I don't have any solder, what would stick this to the board?" and running up to the store, grabbing a Sugar Daddy, sucking on it just enough to make it plyable, and sticking that device back to the board. And it still works True Story.
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    I have had various computer repair jobs before - I would advise you not to fix it. Anything with a CRT tube should not be repaired by a home user - even if you are good at normal repairs. CRTs store voltage that *can* kill you - even after they have been unplugged for a while.

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    Quote Originally Posted by stuffedmonkey
    CRTs store voltage that *can* kill you - even after they have been unplugged for a while.
    Exactly! Be very careful with monitors. They are like big battaries. They store enough volts to kill you even after a several months. I found out the hard way a few years ago when trying to repair an arcade monitor that was supposedly already discharged (Cap Kit). Have it discharged by a pro before you do anything. And keep one hand on your pocket. This way if you fall or anything you wont be tempted to grab anything..

    I love those monitors also. Sadly I have only one so I hardly ever use it.

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    Greetings Programs.

    The flyback transformer supplies a couple thousand volts to the CRT and can act like a huge capacitor in storing voltages for LONG periods of time. This is attached to the tube with the suction cup looking thing. Under this cup is a metal clip that you pinch and stick into a hole in the CRT glass.

    *NOTE* do I need a disclaimer here to protect myself? I was an electronic engineer before I was an IT engineer so I want to say do NOT try this at home. Be aware of your ground path and always wear eye protection.

    turn off and unplug. Personally I have a socket wired on my bench with no power just grounded.

    A flyback discharge tool is only a screwdriver and a piece of wire with an alligator clip on it. Oh, and a 10meg ohm resistor as a bleeder so you don't see a spark.

    A tech will take two long screwdrivers, stick one under the suction cap and touch the clip while touching the metal band around the face of the CRT with the other and then bringing them together. Zap..

    Some all in one computers like MAC SE's have built in bleeder resistors so you won't get much of a spark. Just do it 2 or 3 times to be sure.

    The yoke has some open line voltage pins so you have normal AC to worry about there.

    In terms of using a standard composite monitor like the 1702 the chroma and luma that made the Atari and Commodore superior on this monitor is just S-Video. I have a TV capture card with RF and s-video/composite input. But I mainly use a VGA converter to scan double the 15khz so I can play things from my desk

    I do still own my original 1702 that I paid $250 for back in 1986

    end of line

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    There's a fuse in there that is soldered to the circuit board. I've replaced one once. Another time I was trying to get a screw out that I had dropped and I touched the back of the CRT to the ground and the monitor started hissing. I nearly shit my pants. I ran around the corner and hid for awhile and then carefully carried the monitor to the dumpster. Be careful.

    y-bot

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