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Thread: Need help w/ install of mod chip on a Sanyo drive Saturn w/ PC Trap Board

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    Exclamation Need help w/ install of mod chip on a Sanyo drive Saturn w/ PC Trap Board

    I'm hoping someone can help me out here. I have wanted to get into Modding systems for awhile now and decided to start out with what I WAS TOLD was an easy mod. Unfortunately it's not so easy. I am having one hell of a time getting a mod chip (bought from: racketboy - think it's a Xinga chip not sure though) to work. The installation method I used was the standard one described here: http://www.racketboy.com/saturn-modc...yo-install.htm

    Everything looks the same on my Saturn as it does in the pictures on the guide except my power supply board is different. I am still soldering to the post 2nd from the back, but my connection point has 4 posts not 5 (Like the other Model 2 Saturns.). I used the A-B solder bridge method to handle the signal wire duties. No dice.

    When the chip is installed this way I can play Golden Axe the Duel (original copy) perfectly fine. Virtual On Netlink Ed (also original) however only reads as an audio CD. The burned copies of these games I have made (both direct copies of the disks and from dl'ed ISO/BIN and ISO/OGG sets. Using Alcohol 120% Trial version at DAO/SAO and 4X max speed) also read as the Virtual On original does (audio CDs).

    I tried disconnecting the PC Trap board from the CD-drive board but that was disasterous as the Saturn would no longer play the Golden Axe original anymore. In fact no disk was reading at all. Not even as audio CDs. I've read alot of conflicting reports about the mod chip on a Sanyo Saturn. Everything from it's unmoddable to it works perfectly fine installed as I have done. At this point I am at a loss and I can't find a definative solution to my problem. Please, if you can, help me.

    Almost forgot. Also tried to install it on a Model 2 Saturn (not mine) without the PC Trap and a JVC CD-drive I get the same results. Except Golden Axe origianl wont even play. Everything comes up as an audio CD. I did this to test the chip as that type Saturn is supposedly always takes the mod chip. I have no idea what is going on here. Is it possible the chip is no good? It looks decent in quality, but if it was run in China (which I am sure it was) I'm not so confident in the Quality Assurance dept... maybe bad chips are common?

    My Sanyo Saturn system info:

    Model #: MK-800000A
    Serial #: B7B019314
    Manufacture Date: 2/97
    Code after Man. Date: SY 670-6470A
    Sanyo Drive Board Model#: 610-6294-30
    Main Board: Haven't disassembled this far so I don't know.
    Last edited by Icarus Moonsight; 02-07-2007 at 08:48 AM.


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    When I installed my modchip I did not have any problems, but it might be a good idea to pullout a multimeter if you have one (buy one if you dont they are cheap at WalMart or any electronics store) and just make sure that you are indeed getting +5V from that post you soldered to. I have to wonder if the layout in your Saturn might be a bit different and you might have accidently used a higher voltage post? If so then the chip might be fried which is why it may not work on any other Saturn at this time.

    This is just my opinion but I hope it can help you out.

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    It cant be done on the Saturn with Sanyo CD drive and PC Trap board.

    Whoever wrote that they got it working must of either been lying or did something extra which they didnt mention because I have tried it on about 5 Saturns with Sanyo CD drive and PC Trap board with 0% success rate.

    I suggest region modding it, selling it on and then getting one which is much more easily modded i.e. ANY OTHER model 2 Saturn.

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    When I modded my Saturn, for some odd reason I only got it to work when I put the modchip in backwards.
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    Thought about asking racketboy for a refund but I'm sure that ship has sailed... still a puzzle. Looks like I'm in the market for a premodded saturn. I don't feel like getting bit twice by the same snake. If you can do it and test it to be sure it works maybe you can help me out and we can work a deal. Otherwise, until it's possible for me to do something with what I got here... I'm gonna shelf the project for now. Thanks for your help guys. If anyone knows just what is going on I'd be glad to hear it. Maybe the chip is fried?


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    Pac-Man (Level 10) omnedon's Avatar
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    ""It cant be done on the Saturn with Sanyo CD drive and PC Trap board.""

    Bingo. The Saturn has many many revisions and sub revisions. Dieffernt laser combinations, etc. I find saturn modding different every time, and some simply cannot be modded.

    Those who say it is easy, have unlikely done more than one or two, so they really don't know what is out there. I read a post by racketboy in his own forums, that he has installed a Saturn chip all of once, and some see him as an authority on the subject.

    Most round buttoned saturns can be modded, but not all. Oval buttoned ones are not worth it. I've never been able to get the chip to work in a board with a PC trap. Hours and hours and hours spent, and multiple chips tried (so I know it's not the chip).

    It is an arcane and poorly documented procedure. the sad fact is that online info for unpopular mods (Saturn, DC) is very poor, and I've seen install diagrams that were flat out WRONG.

    Exciting for the DIY'er, and a PITA for the pro.
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    I agree 100% with everything Omnedon has said above. Case in point: many sites (including Racketboy's) refer to being able to loop the second wire on the chip and solder it back to the board. This is apparently an easy shortcut that avoids the need to solder to pin 14 on the Saturn's board itself. Everything I read everywhere claimed this was an easy way to simplify the mod. So, what did I do? I tried it. And, I have a Model 2 round button Saturn.

    Two weeks ago I finally modded my Model 2. After about a half hour of failed attempts using the shortcut method, I went the traditional route and soldered to pin 14 and the power. Bingo, works perfectly every time. Moral of the story? Every Saturn is a little different. Just take a look at the large amount of colors and versions the system was released in internationally.

    Many years ago I looked into modding my original oval button Model 1. I opted against this due to the complexity and unreliability and actually went ahead and used the swap method. It works really well (as long as your quick) but doesn't beat drop and play.
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    Ok... I was led to belive that the A-B solder bridge was optimal. I'll try again soldering the signal wire to 14 but, after that if it doesn't work, it's shelved.

    Is there a reliable source for a Saturn that's been modded and tested? If I get one of them I'll try a region switch.

    Thanks for your input and experience! I mean it.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Icarus Moonsight View Post
    Ok... I was led to belive that the A-B solder bridge was optimal. I'll try again soldering the signal wire to 14 but, after that if it doesn't work, it's shelved.

    Is there a reliable source for a Saturn that's been modded and tested? If I get one of them I'll try a region switch.

    Thanks for your input and experience! I mean it.
    Not a problem. I have no idea why the A-B bridge didn't work for me, but that may be your problem as well. Let me know how things go. I can finally play my copy of Radiant Silvergun without swapping...truly fantastic stuff.
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    OSG is reliable, but we never have sufficient moddable Saturns available for sale. We have a good track record with 90% of round buttoned Saturns sent to us for modding. We do region switch (switch and switchless) mods as well.

    What blows my mind is that many regard racketboy as an expert on all things Saturn mods, when he never really claimed to have done a lot of them, and he does not offer the service, nor has he claimed expert status. He just sells the chips. Don't get me wrong, I think racketboy is an honest seller, and an honest businessman. He can't control what people 'assume' about him.

    Nor can he control how tricky and arcane Saturn modding can be. It can be easy as hell on the first one you do, and the next one that seems identical can require a completely undocumented install procedure. Not a lot of fun.

    OSG nearly dropped the service a year ago, but I have it under control now. I would not call it an easy mod, just due to the variables. It can be easy. It can be a freaking frustrating nightmare too. And no one wants to blow their Saturn's laser, but a bad install can do it. Guess how I know? =)
    Last edited by omnedon; 04-05-2007 at 10:12 AM.
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    I just finished installing the modchip supplied by Jandaman and Racketboy into a Sanyo Sega Saturn and it was a pain in the ass, but it's working and I took pictures. I can't guarantee this will work on all Sanyo systems but it's worth a shot.

    If you refer to http://www.racketboy.com/saturn-modc...yo-install.htm you are advised to ignore running the signal line and just tie point A to point B on the modchip, this didn't work for me.



    I removed the Sanyo drive board and flipped it over, this is what you should see- what you want to do is leave point B on the modchip alone, and tie point A to pin #71 on the large 80 pin Sanyo chip. It's the 7th pin from the notched corner as shown in the picture, there's a point not far on the board that's tied into this pin which makes for easy soldering, as you can see with the black wire.



    However! This alone didn't work for me. I also had to change the jumper setting on the modchip from 0014 to 0019, refer to the pic, it's easy to just remove the default solder jumper from 0014 and bridge the middle pad onto 0019.



    Just a notice that you will have to cut the metal plate which holds the PC Trap board, to make room for the modchip as it seats into the socket. I have heard that people were able to remove the PC Trap board entirely and just run a cable right from the drive board to the modchip, whatever works for you.



    This is what it should look like with everything in place, good luck!


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    Great Job Bratwurst!....Soldering into very tight spots and small pins, is not exactly the easiest thing.....Well done!..
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    Looks like it's time to try a new method. Bratwurst, thank you for the little holiday gift of information.

    I'll post my results after the tinkerin' is done.
    Last edited by Icarus Moonsight; 01-01-2009 at 12:52 AM.


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    Icarus just thought I should let you know that this Sanyo I worked on also had a 4-post power supply and +5 volts is indeed acquired by the second post from the back.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bratwurst View Post
    Icarus just thought I should let you know that this Sanyo I worked on also had a 4-post power supply and +5 volts is indeed acquired by the second post from the back.
    That's good to know. I will test it with a meter to be sure. Well, I know I didn't volt fry it last time as least.


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    Yea I fried a laser on a Sanyo trying this mod but I was using a RobWebb chip. Got a 32pin and had the install done in like 10 minutes. I just had to reconnect the trace I cut in order to install on the Sanyo though. This is my fifth time modding and no luck ever on the Sanyo's but Bratwurst your info is invaluble.

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    Looks like some Sanyo's may be different... again, nothing. Either that, I screwed something up (I'm new at this so it's very possible, I've had a stray solder short or two before), or the chip is bad and has been from the beginning. Tried again on another JVC. Same results as before.


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    Sorry to hear it. I'm hoping someone else can try this out sometime and confirm that it works on their end. Did you make sure to change the jumper setting on the modchip?

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    i have done it easyer than the 64 pin but all sega saturns are relly easy hears a link to non dead mod chips for saturn http://www.angelfire.com/pa/Raluminat/forsale.html
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bratwurst View Post
    Sorry to hear it. I'm hoping someone else can try this out sometime and confirm that it works on their end. Did you make sure to change the jumper setting on the modchip?
    Yup. I spent half the nights all this weekend doing all the stuff. It's fun, but without a payoff it's annoying as hell.

    I tried both the trace to solder point and on the IC foot itself in case the trace was bad... Hey, I'm getting better at least. I couldn't do something like that this time last year.


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