ACLBandit's Neo Geo Arcade Cab Quest!

[aclbandit]

I'm certain this question has been asked before, and will be asked again; sadly, the search feature's requirement of 4+ characters per word yielded little for me to find.

I'm considering getting a Neo Geo cabinet with my summer cash (before I have to buy books for school :(). I've found an eBay listing within 200 miles as well as a craiglist for one.

However, both are one-slot cabinets. I personally won't mind changing out the carts to change games, no big thing. I'm just worried that there's going to be a game that needs more than one slot to run (i.e., the game takes up multiple cartridges).

Most importantly, are there ANY games requiring multiple slots, or is a multislot NeoGeo something that's only for convenience?

Also, what should I be looking for to make sure it's an original NeoGeo? What should I beware of that might be indicative of future problems? Questions/answers similar to these?

[cyberfluxor]

There are no two-cart games. I believe each slot is isolated from the others so a bridging wouldn't be possible. A game select button is used on multi-slot MVS boards that cycles between the connection ports.

There are many multi-cart bootlegs out there and I'd suggest hitting the Neo-Geo or Klov message boards for more information. There are a few good deals out there for under $100 at the moment with 100+ games loaded. Of course some frown upon this and there are some minor known issues with gameplay on boots, but if you're on a budge and have a one-slot it may not be a bad idea to go with.

As for boots and hacks you can always post on the Neo boards with high resolution pictures. If you have it on hand just pop the cart open and check the labeling inside and the logic chips (PLU's).


I was just thinking: Are the multi-carts considered bootlegs, hacks, homebrews, or something else?

[aclbandit]

The OCD collector in me won't allow multicarts, so no go there, cheap or not.

I read something about a memory card slot that only originals (not "fake ones") would have. Do all models of NeoGeo Cabs have that?

[aclbandit]

Also what are the options on monitor size in 1-slot cabs?

Know any good sites with basic information about different models?

[bust3dstr8]

Only the MV-1, MV-4F,MV-6F support the memory board. The MV-2F has on
board memory slot.

[aclbandit]

I'm looking at this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220459705243&_trksid=p2759.l1259

What can you guys tell me about it? Is 70" tall a normal height for a "real" cabinet? (The last time I saw one, I was much younger and they looked much taller than that, but that could have been because I myself would have only been 50" tall or so)

Thanks for any available info.

[skaar]

I own a 6 slot and I've always had issues with having all 6 games working - compatibility apparently suffers in the multislot boards. Generally I just need to shuffle the order the carts are installed in to achieve harmony.

My argument against a single slot would be entirely based on feeling but not at all backed by any science or knowledge of electronics - I just don't believe arcade machines were made to be turned on and off that often. If I turn on the Neo I'll use it for a few hours at a time before turning it off again.

[aclbandit]

So there's a Neo Geo at a local "tradin' post" (apparently like a consignment shop for things that aren't clothes?). I took a look at it -- looks externally pretty nice, with few minor scuffs, etc., in the red and black paint-ed-ish bits.

However, the monitor has me worried: it's stretched vertically a little at the top, and has a distinct green tint to it. It's in no way the color it's supposed to be.

They're asking $475 for it; how difficult is a green-tinted monitor to fix? Could I fix it, with help from you nice people on the interwebs? Or is it "on the way out" and one would need to be looking for a new monitor? What size monitor would this one be (it takes up the full space of the cab on the inside, right to left)?

How much would be a reasonable price to offer for one with a monitor like this?

Picture attached.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/aclbandit/0807091633.jpg

[aclbandit]

Went researching the interwebs, found out about "cap kits." These include all of the capacitors that your monitor has for replacement. Sounds like it fixes a LOT of monitor problems. Not too expensive either.

Does this one sound/look like something a cap kit could repair?

[bust3dstr8]

What are you looking for exactly? A jamma cab with a one slot or a
dedicated MVS?

The Ebay cab is a conversion with some crap Euro style sticks.
Don't buy a cab with a faulty monitor unless it is dirt cheap.

[aclbandit]

What are you looking for exactly? A jamma cab with a one slot or a
dedicated MVS?

The Ebay cab is a conversion with some crap Euro style sticks.
Don't buy a cab with a faulty monitor unless it is dirt cheap.

Dedicated, original MVS is what I'd like. Thanks for the info about the eBay cab -- after seeing the real one locally, I was pretty certain the eBay one is NOT what I want. The monitor is way too tiny.

Would this faulty monitor, as I described it and by the picture, be possible to fix? I don't mind working on stuff -- I enjoy it actually -- but I'd want to make sure I'm not up a creek if I buy it. Obviously, I wouldn't give the $475 for it. Depending on the difficulty of repair, what would be a fair offer?

[bust3dstr8]

It might just need the RGB adjusted or could be real bad like the red gun failing.
You can always try to rejuvinate it, but that is just a band-aid fix.

I would make an offer thinking I would need to replace the monitor.
So 75-125 depending on the condition of the rest of the cab.

[aclbandit]

It might just need the RGB adjusted or could be real bad like the red gun failing.
You can always try to rejuvinate it, but that is just a band-aid fix.

I would make an offer thinking I would need to replace the monitor.
So 75-125 depending on the condition of the rest of the cab.

Okay, thanks. Considering my options locally (which are NONE -- welcome to nowhere, WV), I might go a little higher -- I was thinking around $200 max. I'll ask the guy who brought it into the shop about it, see if he can provide any insight.

[skaar]

I went for a candy cabinet myself - I think they look nicer than the "Big Reds" in a living room. Neo 29 ftw

[aclbandit]

Talked to the guy, said $400 would be about as low as he could go, so I dunno about this one. Might just wait.

Is adjusting an arcade monitor for vertical stretch & color balance a really difficult process? What's involved in doing so?

[tholly]

If it has monitor problems, you might want to avoid it. You could end up spending more than the cost of the cabinet itself to fix the monitor (especially if you are not technically savvy enough to fix it yourself.)

I know I got mine cheap, but I got a mint condition 4 slot with 4 games for $325.

As for the compatibility, if I can remember correctly from back in the day, 2 and 4 slots are very very reliable, but the 6 slotters tend to have problems with slots dying / not working.

Personally, I recommend that you hold out until you can find a 4 Slot Big Red at a decent price.

[aclbandit]

Judging by eBay prices with shipping (considering there's never anything cool for sale near where I live), if I could get it for $300, even having to replace the monitor, I'd break about even or save a small amount.

I'll think about it. Maybe wait a couple weeks, see if it's still there and drop a low offer.

[XYXZYZ]

I'm looking at this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220459705243&_trksid=p2759.l1259

What can you guys tell me about it? Is 70" tall a normal height for a "real" cabinet? (The last time I saw one, I was much younger and they looked much taller than that, but that could have been because I myself would have only been 50" tall or so)

Thanks for any available info.

If it's important to you, I'm pretty sure that's not an original Neo Geo MVS cabinet, it's a conversion kit on an older game machine.

Check out hardmvs.com for pictures and information on dedicated Neo Geo machines.

[BeaglePuss]

Talked to the guy, said $400 would be about as low as he could go, so I dunno about this one. Might just wait.

Is adjusting an arcade monitor for vertical stretch & color balance a really difficult process? What's involved in doing so?
$400 is way too much for a conversion cab with a questionable monitor. I would browse CL more until you stumble across something better. It wont take long before something pops up.

Keep in mind the cost of shipping a cab. I've paid nearly $600 in just shipping charges in the past. Be sure to iron out all shipping details before you commit to buying. It will save you a lot of headache in the long run.

[BeaglePuss]

I went for a candy cabinet myself - I think they look nicer than the "Big Reds" in a living room. Neo 29 ftw
I went with Egrets (I have both an E2 and an E29) due to their rotating mechs. That's what's up!

[aclbandit]

Just so everyone that's helping me out knows, the one with the monitor PROBLEM that's local is a dedicated MVS (red sides with logos and everything.)

The one that's kinda far away on eBay is not, and it's out of the question now that I've seen what a "real" one looks like.

My remaining wonder is about whether or not the green-tinted monitor is fixable, and within a reasonable amount of money.

[BeaglePuss]

Just so everyone that's helping me out knows, the one with the monitor PROBLEM that's local is a dedicated MVS (red sides with logos and everything.)

The one that's kinda far away on eBay is not, and it's out of the question now that I've seen what a "real" one looks like.

My remaining wonder is about whether or not the green-tinted monitor is fixable, and within a reasonable amount of money.
I wouldn't mind seeing a pic of the other cab so I could give you my full take on it.

As for the green color, I had the exact same issue on my Big Red. It was just a matter of reseating a molex connector on the monitor. Presto, good as new! It could be more involved than that, but it still should be an easy fix.

Regardless though, your best bet is to wait for the right cab. If this is your first foray into arcade collecting you shouldn't be looking at a fixer-upper. With very little patients you'll find something more fitting.

[Flack]

Most monitors are fixable, all monitors are replaceable. The bad color and screen stretching "probably" would be fixed by a cap kit. Cap kits are ~$10 and, yes, fix lots of problems. If it doesn't, you should be able to find a generic working game for $100 or less and swap monitors.

$400 for a cabinet with problems is pushing it. I currently own 30 cabinets and only paid more than $400 for one of them. The majority of them cost me $100-$200 (including two Neo Geo cabs).

[BeaglePuss]

So there's a Neo Geo at a local "tradin' post" (apparently like a consignment shop for things that aren't clothes?). I took a look at it -- looks externally pretty nice, with few minor scuffs, etc., in the red and black paint-ed-ish bits.

However, the monitor has me worried: it's stretched vertically a little at the top, and has a distinct green tint to it. It's in no way the color it's supposed to be.

They're asking $475 for it; how difficult is a green-tinted monitor to fix? Could I fix it, with help from you nice people on the interwebs? Or is it "on the way out" and one would need to be looking for a new monitor? What size monitor would this one be (it takes up the full space of the cab on the inside, right to left)?

How much would be a reasonable price to offer for one with a monitor like this?

Picture attached.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/aclbandit/0807091633.jpg
Totally missed that this was the one you were talking about.

There's no issue with the monitor at all. All you need to do is play around with the pots and you'll be good to go. You can start your MVS mobo up in the test menu and work out the colors from there. SUPER easy to do. No need to replace the monitor on that bad boy. Also, the vertical stretching could be adjusted with the pots on the monitor as well.

Is there anyway you could take some pics of the exterior of the cab?

Do you happen to know what mobo it has (2, 4, 6?), and what carts would be included. That could effect the value a lot as well.

[aclbandit]

Is there anyway you could take some pics of the exterior of the cab?

Do you happen to know what mobo it has (2, 4, 6?), and what carts would be included. That could effect the value a lot as well.

They'd look at me weird if I dropped by again just to take pics, and besides, I don't think it's necessary. Didn't think to take some of the exterior, but really, it was nice. A couple of bonks on the bottom corners, looked like, but really overall great shape.

The coin door doesn't have the lock, probably for convenience (an easy $15ish from SuzoHapp, it would appear, if I cared enough), so I (of course) opened it to look inside. The motherboard was mounted on the right wall of the interior, and was (as expected by the matching marquee) a one-slot. Which is FINE with me.

It has Samurai Shodown III in it currently (never played it before today). Not worried about the game, either -- it's the working cabinet [edit: and by "cabinet", I mean good-condition exterior, working mobo, controls, monitor with a little work] I'm interested in. Games come later. However, it was a plus for me when the ladyfriend was excited and said she had previously played and liked the game that's in it.

Glad that the monitor would most likely be an easy fix. I'll still use the "lol it looks messed up" in my haggling, since it really could be a bigger problem (even if not likely).

Thanks again for the help; keep the info coming, I really prefer to be well-informed before I buy anything.

[aclbandit]

If this is your first foray into arcade collecting you shouldn't be looking at a fixer-upper. With very little patients you'll find something more fitting.

Meh, I kind of enjoy fixing things. Maybe one of the reasons classic game collecting is such a good hobby for me? Not worried about it perhaps being a "fixer-upper." Things are more fun if you have to work for 'em.

[aclbandit]

Are there two types of NG control panels? Most of the button configurations on NeoGeo cabs I see online look like they're for the four fingers that aren't a thumb. However, the cab I'm looking at has the far left button a little lower than the rest, looking like a "thumb button." Other panels on Google images have this config, but doesn't look like as many.

Maybe it's just the angle on the pics and they're all the same. I dunno.

[BeaglePuss]

Are there two types of NG control panels? Most of the button configurations on NeoGeo cabs I see online look like they're for the four fingers that aren't a thumb. However, the cab I'm looking at has the far left button a little lower than the rest, looking like a "thumb button." Other panels on Google images have this config, but doesn't look like as many.

Maybe it's just the angle on the pics and they're all the same. I dunno.
It could be a conversion, which is why I was wondering what the rest of the cab looked like. Conversion panels often have a similar, albeit somewhat modified layout.

There are numerous Neo layouts depending on what type of cabinet. I would have to see pics in order to know if it's legit or not.

Have you considered joining Neo-Geo.com? Those guys know their stuff and they could really help you out. Just a thought.

[aclbandit]

It could be a conversion, which is why I was wondering what the rest of the cab looked like. Conversion panels often have a similar, albeit somewhat modified layout.

There are numerous Neo layouts depending on what type of cabinet. I would have to see pics in order to know if it's legit or not.

Have you considered joining Neo-Geo.com? Those guys know their stuff and they could really help you out. Just a thought.

I might do so if I get into serious NeoGeo collecting. For now, just getting started. I think I'm going to buy it monday, try to get a slightly lower price than he as on it. I'll be back with you guys then with questions about how to adjust the "color pots" (wtf is that?), and other such questions. If you feel like giving an explanation in advance, though, feel free.

I'm gonna try to drop by tomorrow and grab pics of the panel and sides, but from the info I've found online, it looks to be a legit. I'll let you folks be the judge.

[aclbandit]

The joint was closed, prolly because it's Sunday (and around here, they take the "Lord's Day of Rest" VERY seriously).

However, there is a picture of it taped to the front window, so I took a picture of the picture... :P

Hopefully this is enough. The sides are not shown, but they were red and said "NEO-GEO," I think.

Following are images of varying (but still bad) quality.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/aclbandit/0809091118.jpg

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/aclbandit/0809091118a.jpg

This one's of the control panel. You can see what I mean by saying something about the left button looking like a "thumb button."

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/aclbandit/0809091118b.jpg

Let me know if it's legit. If it helps any, it had a sticker under the control panel on the right stating something about "manufactued by SNK" (or similar) and had serial number things.

EDIT: Ignore the reflection of MY HEAD, k?

[BeaglePuss]

That is 100% legit, including the overlay. Looks to be in good shape from the pictures.

$400 is still too much money if you ask me, especially with a wonky monitor. Wave $300 in his face and see if he bites. It's worth a shot. I paid $350 for a dedicated four slot, with 4 good games, and without any real monitor issue. People have been known to score dedicated four slots for $100-$150.

It boils down to how badly you want it at the moment. If you wait you might be able to strike a better deal.

[aclbandit]

That is 100% legit, including the overlay. Looks to be in good shape from the pictures.

$400 is still too much money if you ask me, especially with a wonky monitor. Wave $300 in his face and see if he bites. It's worth a shot. I paid $350 for a dedicated four slot, with 4 good games, and without any real monitor issue. People have been known to score dedicated four slots for $100-$150.

It boils down to how badly you want it at the moment. If you wait you might be able to strike a better deal.

Glad to hear it's legit. They were open this evening, so I dropped in and talked to him about it some more, looked at it, etc. I took more pics, too; they'll follow.

I realize that at $400, I'm overpaying a bit, but I live in the buttcrack of America. This is the 2nd arcade cab I've seen on Craiglist in the YEAR I've had the search "arcade" on RSS feed for all of my local ones. My options are severely limited. Besides, shipping on an arcade cab is insane, and based on eBay prices, the MoBo alone fetches about $300ish.

I'm going to buy it. It'll be a project. I'll post back after it's here tomorrow and let you guys know what's up.

Also, anyone have a link to good instructions on adjusting the "color pots"? Because I genuinely haven't a clue what those are.

Pictures, more detailed and such.

Control Panel:
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/aclbandit/0809091805a.jpg

Right Side:
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/aclbandit/0809091802.jpg

Left Side:
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/aclbandit/0809091802a.jpg

Serial Number/Model Sticker:
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/aclbandit/0809091803.jpg

[aclbandit]

The following is the list of things that need to be remedied for me to consider it "perfect." Mostly it's just a checklist for my reference, but also for suggestions from those who know more:

1) Monitor Color (too green)
2) Monitor Stretch (vert stretch on upper half-ish)
3) Weird burn spot on left side -- fill hole with that wood hole filler stuff then have red paint mixed in the right color? (suggestions?)
4) Red button on player 2 side -- repair or replace (doesn't work -- Suzo Happ?)
5) Coin Door Lock (missing? Might be inside? Buy from Suzo Happ)

The last two are minor, and, as far as I know, easy to fix. #3 isn't even necessary, I will fix it for aesthetic purposes. Those first two are the big ones.

[Blur2040]

Glad to hear it's legit. They were open this evening, so I dropped in and talked to him about it some more, looked at it, etc. I took more pics, too; they'll follow.

I realize that at $400, I'm overpaying a bit, but I live in the buttcrack of America. This is the 2nd arcade cab I've seen on Craiglist in the YEAR I've had the search "arcade" on RSS feed for all of my local ones. My options are severely limited. Besides, shipping on an arcade cab is insane, and based on eBay prices, the MoBo alone fetches about $300ish.

Also, anyone have a link to good instructions on adjusting the "color pots"? Because I genuinely haven't a clue what those are.


The MVS board in that machine probably fetches about $50. Maybe less. I've had people give them too me several times before working. Sometimes desperate people will buy them for closer to $65. The 260 dollar PCB on eBay is an MV-1C (probably what you saw) which is a more desirable board than is in that machine...and it's at a ridiculous price at which nobody would buy it in a million years.

Sam Shodown...1 or 2...i forget what it was...doesn't really matter, it's a 15-20 dollar game shipped, tops.

The "color pots" are potentiometers on the monitor that are used for adjusting the level of red, blue and green in the picture. They might fix the color problem temporarily, but it sounds like you should probably do at cap kit at the least. A complete kit will likely solve the color issues and the monitor geometry problems. Doing that will involve discharging the high voltage in the monitor and using a soldering iron to remove and replace probably 10 or so capacitors. Be very careful with the monitor and practice with a soldering iron first if you don't know what you're doing.

I'll say that I agree that $400 is a pretty lousy price for a single slot MVS...I wouldn't pay it in a million years...but it's not a ludicrous price...though it is edging towards it. I'd do what was said above and dangle 3 or 350 and they'd probably take it. Looks like you're already locked in, though, so have fun.

[aclbandit]

The "color pots" are potentiometers on the monitor that are used for adjusting the level of red, blue and green in the picture. They might fix the color problem temporarily, but it sounds like you should probably do at cap kit at the least. A complete kit will likely solve the color issues and the monitor geometry problems. Doing that will involve discharging the high voltage in the monitor and using a soldering iron to remove and replace probably 10 or so capacitors. Be very careful with the monitor and practice with a soldering iron first if you don't know what you're doing.

I'll say that I agree that $400 is a pretty lousy price for a single slot MVS...I wouldn't pay it in a million years...but it's not a ludicrous price...though it is edging towards it. I'd do what was said above and dangle 3 or 350 and they'd probably take it. Looks like you're already locked in, though, so have fun.

Yup. Wasn't a good price. I'm cool with it. *shrug* [EDIT: Got a call from the consigment 'tradin' post' owner -- apparently the fellow who brought it in is mad that I got it for the price I did, even though the angry fellow is the one who TOLD ME THAT NUMBER. The owner of the shop was professional about it, wasn't mad at me and told me to enjoy my game. Sounds like he wanted MORE for it? R U SRS? Oh well. Mine now.]

Anyhow, it's in my SECOND FLOOR room now (that was an adventure, jeebus). Just gotta get it running again. Looks like a couple of the plugs on the coin box thing came loose, the plugs under the "TEST SWITCH" and "SERVICE SWITCH." For which does the purple/black plug, and which is the orange/black wire? Does it matter?

Maybe other things came unplugged too. :(

Where do I find the potentiometers? What's a good source for a cap kit?

I'm totally new at the arcade thing, but ready to restore this one to its former glory. Pics will follow once I've had a shower (moving an arcade machine up stairs is hard work).

EDIT: Should I start a second thread under "Technical/Restoration?" This thread was originally about my quest to FIND a NeoGeo, but now is about restoring said thing.

[aclbandit]

So it doesn't seem to work now...? As mentioned previously, it's probably just something that came unplugged, as it DID work at the shop. I'm not worried yet, but I'd love to make it go before I go to work around 4:30.

Following are pics of it in my room, then a pic of what the screen looks like now when started (NOT what it looked like at the shop :()

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/aclbandit/0810091252.jpg
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/aclbandit/0810091253.jpg
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/aclbandit/0810091253a.jpg

OMGWTF! (Didn't look like this yesterday. I guess I need to plug SOMETHING in?)

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/aclbandit/0810091254a.jpg

EDIT: Sorry for low-quality pics, my cell phone camera just can't cut it on a rainy day like this.

[Blur2040]

blankblankblankblankblankblankblankblankblank

[bust3dstr8]

I would clean everything real well, the cart, the edge connector, the harness, and the cart socket. Ya, it wouldn't hurt to check the power
either. If you don't have a multimeter you can get one to suit your needs
at a Home Depot or something for about $20, no need to spend $100 or
so on a Fluke or whatnot.

[Flack]

If it worked before you moved it, I'd check connections. Reseat the cart, reseat the connector going to the motherboard.

[aclbandit]

EDIT: Yep, flack, it did work before it was moved. /EDIT

Right before work, I decided that I'd treat this like any of my classic games: take the freaking cartridge apart and clean the connectors with NintendoRepairShop.com cleaning solution.

Had to go to work before trying it.

Upon returning numerous hours later, I popped it in, and BAM. NEOGEO. Winners don't do drugs. Etc.

And then.... BAM. It starts powering on/off quickly. The longer it's been left turned off, the longer it would go before its on/off nonsense. This indicates that there were two problems: cart needed cleaned [CHECK/FIXED], and something else is wrong.

Judging by the dent where the power supply receives its input from the wall, it would seem that Mr. Muscle (not his real name), the "guy who lifts stuff for Big Red 'round the Tradin' Post," propped it up on the moving thing with wheels (dolly? dhali? whatever?) without removing the power cable. I should have realized this before. GRR.

So. Power supplies. NOT supposed to take those apart, according to all of the computer teachers I had in high school. Perhaps I'll look for a replacement. :(

Will wait for advice, but probably power supply.

P.S.: Joined Neo-Geo.com forums, but apparently can't start a new thread in "Tech Support." Maybe I have to be a member for a while. I'll go read the FAQ or something.

[aclbandit]

Well, retarded as it sounds, I put the power cord back in and bent back down with it in there (as it appeared to have been bent "up" by Mr. Muscle), and fantastically, it worked.

Now I just have to get the monitor stretched back to take up the whole screen -- while trying to make it go, I found the "pots" -- now it looks all squished up in the middle >.<;

And with no one in front to tell me what it looks like, guess this means wait until tomorrow :(

[aclbandit]

With the clever use of the mirror, the screen is visible again, everything is as it was before the move.

Next up:

Where do I find a cap kit? Already found instructions for replacing it. Direct me to a retailer for cap kits for monitors.

[bust3dstr8]

http://therealbobroberts.net/

[aclbandit]

http://therealbobroberts.net/

Thanks! Is it a reputable site, etc.?

[Blur2040]

blankblankblankblank

[XYXZYZ]

Here are two cap kits on eBay for a WG7000 monitor, if that's what you have. (I'm pretty sure Neo Geos had WG K7000s, didn't they?)

http://cgi.ebay.com/MONITOR-GET-WELL-REBUILT-KIT-FOR-WELLS-GARDNER-K7000_W0QQitemZ360128603890QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_D efaultDomain_0?hash=item53d95666f2&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

http://cgi.ebay.com/WELLS-GARDENER-MONITOR-MODEL-K7000-REPAIR-KIT_W0QQitemZ140337970847QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_0?hash=item20accb7e9f&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

I hear a lot of good things about Bob Roberts, but I've never used him because you have to mail him a check. I'm too impatient for that.:p

[aclbandit]

Don't let the look of the site fool you. Bob Roberts is the best.

Fantastic. Thanks for letting me know.

Dunno what the monitor model is, haven't checked yet. Busy arguing with the thing.

Seems that the "it works omg just bend power supply back" was only temporary, as after leaving it overnight and NOT TOUCHING ANYTHING, it's back to the blank screen/weird squares as previously. I'll worry about the aesthetics (i.e., repainting, monitor repair, etc.) once it's functionally sound.

On that note, when computers inconsistently power specific parts or inconsistently power things overall, I have always had luck replacing the power supply. Judging by the only part of the thing to have taken damage in the moving, and by the given symptoms, I'm going to hazard a guess that Mr. Muscle busted some part of the thing on the inside.

I opened the power supply up to look at it, and it does seem that some green glob with leads has been bent from the power cord insert being pressed down upon it. However, I'm NOT effing around inside a power supply. It's worth it to me to wait a couple of weeks for my next paycheck and just replace the thing.

Unless you guys have some other idea about the problem?

On a side note, I fixed the red button on the 2P side-- one of the "feet" of the pushbutton itself (specifically, the foot that touches the microswitch) was broken off and held on with a rubber band. The rubber band had since (obviously) dry-rotted. I superglued that bad boy back where it goes, and the button *seems* to be good now. Makes the same clicky sound as the others. Can't be sure, though, since the %$*&%$# thing doesn't seem to boot today.

[aclbandit]

I will continue using this thread as a log of my restoration. A mod can move to technical/restoration if you want.

Pretty much determined that the power supply is what went wrong while moving it; won't know for sure until I either get a proper multimeter or buy a new PSU. Probably the latter, since if it's not broken, I've got a spare in that case. I did open the power supply and tried re-soldering all of the contacts that could have been broken in the move, but alas, same problem (although it's a little better -- I see the screen that says "Neo Geo" and get a note or two of the startup tune before it freaks out and starts clicking on and off).

The right joystick is fine, but the left was rusted on the metal under the knob. I removed it from the control panel (after figuring out how to open it/turn it over) and sandpapered all the rust off, after giving up on possibly scrubbing it away with alcohol. Wish I'd thought to get before/after pics -- much better now.

[tholly]

Did you try reseating the games? I know if a game isn't sitting in the slot properly, it could give you some troubles.

Also, did you remove the games, coin box, loose coins, loose parts while moving? If not, something might have bounced around and caused some damage.

[aclbandit]

Did you try reseating the games? I know if a game isn't sitting in the slot properly, it could give you some troubles.

Also, did you remove the games, coin box, loose coins, loose parts while moving? If not, something might have bounced around and caused some damage.

Nothing was in it that could move except the box that has the on/off switch (which I think is supposed to be attached somewhere...?), but I taped that down.

I also did try reseating the game.

The only thing that actually did get physically damaged was the PSU, which is one of the reasons why I'm pretty certain that that's what's wrong.

[madman77]

It's most likely not a game seating issue. You can also boot it up without any carts in it, you will get a cross hair pattern. This will eliminate the variable of it being the cart/cart connector.

If you are getting a clicking sound, that would indicate some sort of problem with the board itself. You can check the PSU, verify you are getting +5v output at the correct pins on the JAMMA edge. If you're getting that, it's not a PSU issue, but a problem with your board.

[aclbandit]

It's most likely not a game seating issue. You can also boot it up without any carts in it, you will get a cross hair pattern. This will eliminate the variable of it being the cart/cart connector.

If you are getting a clicking sound, that would indicate some sort of problem with the board itself. You can check the PSU, verify you are getting +5v output at the correct pins on the JAMMA edge. If you're getting that, it's not a PSU issue, but a problem with your board.

Damn. That means I might finally have to break down and buy a multimeter >.<;

The "clicks" seem to coincide with the "number of credits" displays on the control panel turning on and off, if that helps at all.

The clicks don't seem to happen most of the time on boot, just that one night. We're back now at the weird squares (see earlier image).

[tholly]

Don't let the look of the site fool you. Bob Roberts is the best.

Yes, Bob is a top notch seller.

[aclbandit]

So took your suggestion and popped the cartridge out and booted up. I was greeted with weird squares AND the clickies. I tried cleaning the JAMMA connector the same way I do cartridge games, but to no avail.

Upon removing the power connector (I think?) from the bottom of the NG board, the "clickies" (at least, the SOUND it makes when clicking) didn't happen anymore. I can't be sure that the display of credits was or was not "clicking", since I'm only one person and was behind it at the time. I can check later if you think it's important to know.

[madman77]

It sounds like a problem with your MVS board. Garbled graphics and the clicking (this is a watchdog circuit resetting the CPU) are generally signs of a mobo issue. Cleaning the JAMMA edge won't do anything as there's no data coming across it like on a cartridge. Just the outputs for R, G, B and sound.

Also, if it's a model w/socketed BIOS, try re-seating the BIOS or seeing if the chip is loose.

[aclbandit]

It sounds like a problem with your MVS board. Garbled graphics and the clicking (this is a watchdog circuit resetting the CPU) are generally signs of a mobo issue. Cleaning the JAMMA edge won't do anything as there's no data coming across it like on a cartridge. Just the outputs for R, G, B and sound.

Also, if it's a model w/socketed BIOS, try re-seating the BIOS or seeing if the chip is loose.

From the little bit of info I've found, it looks like a socketed one... but I dunno how to get it out?

*goes to try*

Nope, not a clue how to remove it/reinsert it.

However, after poking it some, the machine did boot, and stayed "alive" for much longer before clicky-freakout.

Therefore, you might just be right about the BIOS needing reseated. Now how the hell do I do so?

EDIT: It now runs without a cart inserted just fine, giving me a "crosshairs" and a debug menu. If a cart is inserted, it hits the point after the NEOGEO screen, and maybe the "Don't Do Drugs" screen, then freaks.

On the plus side, judging by the debug menu output, I did fix the red button on P2 side. Yaaay Krazy Glue.

EDIT2: After some more BIOS poking, got it running at the same capacity it did before I bought it: functional, but with monitor silliness. I'm not going to expect it to be "fixed" at this point, since it's seemed fine before and been broken still in the morning. However, it is nice that I got to play a little Samurai Shodown III instead of just poking the innards and hoping for some game.

A proper BIOS re-seating is still in order once I know how.

[Darren870]

A proper BIOS re-seating is still in order once I know how.

Depends on the board and if you can reseat the bios:

http://hardmvs.com/html/PCBcompare.htm

[aclbandit]

Depends on the board and if you can reseat the bios:

http://hardmvs.com/html/PCBcompare.htm

Based on the pics/stats of the site you linked, it's an MV-1. All of the other pictures look like a much shorter board than the one in mine, which is quite a large beast.

Thus, also, if it's an MV-1 (I'd do pics, but my cell phone camera doesn't have enough light to take pics inside the thing), it has socketed bios.

Gotta find out how to remove/reseat 'em now.

EDIT: That site had instructions, which I used and reseated the BIOS. The clickies or the squares aren't happening anymore; now it's just a blank screen. :(

EDIT2: Blank scren. Or clicks. Or squares. It really can't make up its mind about what kind of broken it wants to be :P

[aclbandit]

So I'm thinking desolder the socket and solder the BIOS chip directly to the board.

Good idea? Bad idea? Thoughts?

[Blur2040]

blankblankblankblankblankblank

[Darren870]

Bad idea. While someone suggested that reseating the bios was a good idea (it was) it doesn't mean the problem was there. As it seems to be exhibitin pretty much the same behavior after the bios was reseated, I wouldn't worry too hard about it.

I would recommend to start with big, obvious things and move down to the little electronic bits on the board. Check your power supply first. Your board is NEVER going to work right if it's not getting correct power.

Before you said that the game would restart after a few minutes. Does the ENTIRE thing shut off, including the marquee lights and the monitor? Or does just the board reset?

If the whole thing shuts off and on, the damage you spoke about regarding the power supply damaged the 120 input on the back of it. Could be fixed by repairing whatever was broken on the input.

If just the board resets, I'd say that there could be something wrong with the DC coming out of the power supply. Check the 5v line at the board with the board connected and the machine turned on. If it is too low, this could cause the machine to fail to boot/continue working. Adjust it up ever so slightly (BE CAREFUL NOT TO GO TOO HIGH, Check it with a multimeter. (The 12v doesn't really matter here, because, if I recall, that only powers sound amplification on Neo-Geo boards).

If the power seems OK it's likely a board issue. There, things get a bit harder to track down. The board can surely be repaired (Channelmaniac on Neo-Geo.com and www.klov.com is a whiz with them). Don't go ripping it out and sending it off, though until you're sure what the issue is.

QFT

Dont be soldering that back in. Just a bad choice and you will ruin the board. Plus you wont be able to put in the UniBios which you will want to once you get this thing working

[aclbandit]

QFT

Dont be soldering that back in. Just a bad choice and you will ruin the board. Plus you wont be able to put in the UniBios which you will want to once you get this thing working

Yeah, I had read about the UniBios. Sounds really epic win. I'd pretty much decided that that is what I'd want when I got the thing in tip-top shape.

Okay, not the BIOS. :(

I don't have a multimeter, and I'm flat broke right now (books for school, parking pass, etc.). I'll keep poking it to see if I can find exactly where the problem is. If I don't find it soon, I'll simply wait until I get paid again and either get a multimeter or (depending on how much of an "educated" guess I have at that point) start replacing parts.

Thanks a LOT for the help so far. Can't wait to get this thing going good.

EDIT: Also, just thought I'd point out that it's highly unlikely that something went wrong with the board, besides a "seating" issue from jarring. The MoBo itself is in really immaculate condition, and it has no visible marks of any kind that would indicate something bad happened. Now that I'm more familiar with the MoBo than I probably ever wanted to be, I can also state that there's nothing unplugged.

Side Note: I think it would be the "power" for the speakers (that is, the part that plugs in on the bottom of the board from a molex connector) was plugged into the "headphone" part. I moved it to the "speaker" port, and the sound (on the occasion the thing ran once) was much louder, and I think clearer. More details about this section of the board would be appreciated, mostly out of curiosity.

[aclbandit]

Before you said that the game would restart after a few minutes. Does the ENTIRE thing shut off, including the marquee lights and the monitor? Or does just the board reset?

If the whole thing shuts off and on, the damage you spoke about regarding the power supply damaged the 120 input on the back of it. Could be fixed by repairing whatever was broken on the input.


I don't know about the marquee light, since it was in someone's (i.e., NOT a collector's) home, and the lightbulb there has long since been removed. (I'll toss a new one in once some of the more important problems have been resolved).

However, when the "clickies" (that is, the on/off thing) occur, it does turn on and off the small displays for how many credits are in the machine (the ones next to the player start buttons). The screen, I think also turned on and off, but I can't be sure. I can't make it "clicky" again currently.

[madman77]

As mentioned many times previously, I wouldn't bother to do anything else without a meter to check the power supply. There are simply too many things that can be wrong and the easiest thing to eliminate is the power supply (now that we know it's not the BIOS). It could be that the voltage needs to be adjusted, or it could be that the caps on the power supply have started drying up.

The credit boards and the monitor are powered totally separately. The monitor is almost certainly not turning on and off with the credit displays, as those are powered by the mobo.

[boatofcar]

Totally OT, but where in WV are you?

[aclbandit]

The credit boards and the monitor are powered totally separately. The monitor is almost certainly not turning on and off with the credit displays, as those are powered by the mobo.

Okay, and now here's the REALLY interesting part: it was doing clickies tonight, so I thought let's see WHAT parts are clickying. The monitor IS turning on and off, so are the credit displays. The "clicks" are from the speakers. However, the light on the MoBo's top right seems to stay on.

what. the. hell.


Totally OT, but where in WV are you?

Huntington. It's near the westernmost part of the state.

EDIT: More specifically, I can be in Ohio in under 10 minutes.
EDIT2: Also, boatofcar, I freaking love your signature. One my personal pet peeves.
EDIT3: Also, boatofcar, OMFG ARE THOSE LEGOS!?

[aclbandit]

It could be that the voltage needs to be adjusted, or it could be that the caps on the power supply have started drying up.

Or, an easier explanation: since it worked fine a mere few hours before it didn't at my house, I will state the cause of dead to be the fact that in between these power-ons, a local Mr. Muscle SQUISHED THE FREAKING POWER SUPPLY WHILE MOVING IT BECAUSE NO ONE THOUGHT TO UNPLUG THE CABLE FROM IT BEFORE PUTTING IT ON A DOLLY. Therefore, if it's power supply, I'm going to stick with my explanation.

Yours, however, would be the better explanation if there were no context. :P

[aclbandit]

I don't know about the marquee light, since it was in someone's (i.e., NOT a collector's) home, and the lightbulb there has long since been removed. (I'll toss a new one in once some of the more important problems have been resolved).

Continuing this, what kind of light do I need to replace it? From what I've read on the webs, it's not a "light board" (those appear to be a bitch to fix), but rather appears to just be some normal fluorescent tube bulb. What size/type/shape (whatever details I need) can I go look for?

EDIT: I can do pics of the bulb sockets if necessary.

[boatofcar]

Huntington. It's near the westernmost part of the state.

EDIT: More specifically, I can be in Ohio in under 10 minutes.
EDIT2: Also, boatofcar, I freaking love your signature. One my personal pet peeves.
EDIT3: Also, boatofcar, OMFG ARE THOSE LEGOS!?

I know Huntington. I'm from right down the road in Hurricane, and almost all my friends went to Marshall (I went to Ohio University). I haven't lived in WV for the past 10 years, but my parents still live there and I go home from time to time to visit them, although living in Korea makes that a little difficult :)

Yep, they're legos. I built a ton of NES sculptures when I was living in the states. I even got featured on Kotaku, though I have no idea how to look up the post. Anyway, the FF guys were sold to a VP at Activision, so the only memory I have of them is that pic :(

Did you buy the cab in Huntington?

[aclbandit]

Did you buy the cab in Huntington?

Yes. From a "tradin' post" where Dwights Restaurant used to be. (No one ate there buy my grandma, I think. Probably why it's gone.)

Also, Lego FF characters == win. So does your other stuff I saw via the image link.

[madman77]

The clicking is the watchdog circuit resetting the CPU, as previously mentioned. The display on the monitor may be going off (this is obvious if the CPU is being reset), but the monitor itself should not be losing power. Clicking coming from the speakers is normal when the watchdog is resetting the CPU.

[Flack]

Continuing this, what kind of light do I need to replace it? From what I've read on the webs, it's not a "light board" (those appear to be a bitch to fix), but rather appears to just be some normal fluorescent tube bulb. What size/type/shape (whatever details I need) can I go look for?

EDIT: I can do pics of the bulb sockets if necessary.

To be honest, there's no telling. On most of the games I own, the light fixtures are no longer original. Easiest thing to do is just pull the bulb out, take it up to Wal-Mart and match it up ... either that, or just pick up a whole new light fixture and replace it.

[aclbandit]

To be honest, there's no telling. On most of the games I own, the light fixtures are no longer original. Easiest thing to do is just pull the bulb out, take it up to Wal-Mart and match it up ... either that, or just pick up a whole new light fixture and replace it.

There's no bulb in it anymore. If I brought a picture of the socket and a measurement of length, would I be able to find a replacement, or do you need more info than that?

[aclbandit]

Working on filling in the burn spot, as well as stripping the black paint (read: rust covered somewhat by black paint) from the control panel's metal portion. Once I've done this, I will repaint it black and find out how to get sanded-off black paint out of the carpet. I should have done the sanding outside or something.

All physical restoration for now-- technical can't happen until I get extra money.

[Darren870]

Try the Neo Boards.

Lots of smart people there that dont post here...