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Thread: Replacing a Sega Nomad's Voltage Regulator.

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    Great Puma (Level 12) jb143's Avatar
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    Default Replacing a Sega Nomad's Voltage Regulator.

    Does anyone happen to know the internal regulated voltage of a Nomad? I'm assuming it's 5V but I'm not sure. My Nomad had a fried regulator when I got it and I thought I made a work arround. But now I found it won't work on fresh batteries...only half dead ones...which usually isn't a problem with the Nomad but now I'd like to use an adapter for obvious reasons.

    I want to attemp to replace the regulator so any help will be appriciated. Extra points if anyone actually measures the voltages. I'll be sure to post my results here so others can make the same repairs. Thanks.
    Last edited by jb143; 04-25-2008 at 10:18 AM.

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    Probably 5v, but you might be able to determine it like so:

    1 - Locate the datasheet for another component
    2 - Verify continuity between VCC on that component and the output leg of regulator
    3 - Per datasheet, VCC for component is regulator output voltage

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    Quote Originally Posted by jb143 View Post
    Does anyone happen to know the internal regulated voltage of a Nomad? I'm assuming it's 5V but I'm not sure. My Nomad had a fried regulator when I got it and I thought I made a work arround. But now I found it won't work on fresh batteries...only half dead ones...which usually isn't a problem with the Nomad but now I'd like to use an adapter for obvious reasons.

    I want to attemp to replace the regulator so any help will be appriciated. Extra points if anyone actually measures the voltages. I'll be sure to post my results here so others can make the same repairs. Thanks.
    i'm pretty damned sure it's +5V dc.
    meow :3

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    Great Puma (Level 12) jb143's Avatar
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    I'm almost positive too...I just havn't been able to cross reference the regulator. I jumpered the input voltage to the output of the regulator but any voltage that's too high it just won't work...and I disconnect for fear of burning something up.

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    Pac-Man (Level 10) FABombjoy's Avatar
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    Wait... you jumpered the regulator input to the output?

    uh...

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    Yes...to verify operation. It was completely dead before that. Don't worry...I didn't plug in an adaptor.

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    I'm still not too clear on what you were trying to accomplish, or where the fear of burning something up came from if it wasn't plugged in

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    Alright, what's the red jumper wire on the driver board doing?
    I think the driver board is expecting 12vdc, you might need to rework it a bit to accept 5v instead.

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    Quote Originally Posted by phreak97 View Post
    Alright, what's the red jumper wire on the driver board doing?
    I think the driver board is expecting 12vdc, you might need to rework it a bit to accept 5v instead.
    The red jumper on the driver board addresses just that, it is skipping the 12v to 5v dc-dc converter.

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    The centre pin is soldered to ground on the pcb.

    Sounds like theres a problem with the driver board for sure. Triple check the dc-dc bypass

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    Quote Originally Posted by phreak97 View Post
    The centre pin is soldered to ground on the pcb.

    Sounds like theres a problem with the driver board for sure. Triple check the dc-dc bypass
    I think that jumper was done poorly maybe, (I purchased it pre jumpered) as when I desoldered it and resoldered it, now the system works (I can hear the speaker playing game audio and the board is receiving ~5V) with the driver board still plugged in. The screen still does not function however. I'm thinking maybe something shorted out, which is a little surprising since it did work initially, however it certainly isn't working now.

    Another thing that I find peculiar, is that when I plug the av out through a genesis 2 RF cable and switch the nomad on, the TV goes black. No more white fuzz but also no game sound or display, also I still hear the nomad speaker playing audio. This make any sense?

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by phreak97 View Post
    The centre pin is soldered to ground on the pcb.
    Kinda my point, looks like you have input and ground and that's it. Or is that side output, either way ground and only one other connection

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    Quote Originally Posted by Niku-Sama View Post
    Kinda my point, looks like you have input and ground and that's it. Or is that side output, either way ground and only one other connection
    Its just a bad photo angle, it's connected with two green wires. If it was wrong there'd be no sound either. We've solved the power issue anyway, it's just missing video now

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    I noticed the track on the pcb going to the composite video output has been cut, did you do that intentionally?

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    Quote Originally Posted by phreak97 View Post
    I noticed the track on the pcb going to the composite video output has been cut, did you do that intentionally?
    alas, I did not... I originally had the composite out wire soldered there and the pad got pulled off... I saw others who had done this mod had their's soldered to the pin right above it, so I attached mine there. I didn't think it would effect the nomad's ability to send an AV signal out of that port though, am I wrong? I get no audio or video out of that port.
    Last edited by that1crzywhtguy; 07-31-2015 at 12:34 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by that1crzywhtguy View Post
    alas, I did not... I originally had the composite out wire soldered there and the pad got pulled off... I saw others who had done this mod had their's soldered to the pin right above it, so I attached mine there. I didn't think it would effect the nomad's ability to send an AV signal out of that port though, am I wrong? I get no audio or video out of that port.
    Yeah that broken trace takes video to the av connector, you'll have to install a tiny jumper wire from the through-hole to the pin where you have the wire attached.

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    Quote Originally Posted by phreak97 View Post
    Yeah that broken trace takes video to the av connector, you'll have to install a tiny jumper wire from the through-hole to the pin where you have the wire attached.
    Darn I was worried about that. Which through hole? I'm including a close-up. Do I solder a jumper from the little hole between the text TP244 and TP241 to the pin?

    Thanks

    https://app.box.com/s/p5prucd1ylp51kr6izf6cbluqnlxtrxw

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    Quote Originally Posted by that1crzywhtguy View Post
    Darn I was worried about that. Which through hole? I'm including a close-up. Do I solder a jumper from the little hole between the text TP244 and TP241 to the pin?

    Thanks

    https://app.box.com/s/p5prucd1ylp51kr6izf6cbluqnlxtrxw

    Nevermind lol. I just tried it and now I have video and audio out through the RF switch... So that problem is all sorted. Now I've just gotta get this screen sorted out. Not so sure what could be wrong with the driver or how to troubleshoot it now...

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    Yup, right in the middle of the three 4s

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    Oh so still no video from the lcd?

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