Damn! Nice supergun! Should I install a fan in mine when I build it? (its on a loooooong project waiting list) I mean, does it get hot inside the case?
Damn! Nice supergun! Should I install a fan in mine when I build it? (its on a loooooong project waiting list) I mean, does it get hot inside the case?
It depends on the power supply you intend to use. I always used ATX based power supplies, removed from their casing, ect, and wired them up the way I needed them.
I was thinkin' arcade psu... I have an ATX with +5v +12v and -5v lines, though.
It's better to use a real arcade power supply because they won't silently ramp up the power if it seems the board isn't getting enough - which will fry arcade components.
Arcade power supplies: They are made for a reason!
Anyway, the inside of my SG is basically just a power supply, a cheap fan, and connections straight from the JAMMA connector to the RGB (audio inclusive) output, a few buttons (test / service), a little connector for expansion cables, and two controllers wired up for Neo Geo style connectors (supports more buttons I believe). Also pots on the back to control red / green / blue levels independently, mainly not needed but good to have (except when they get bumped).
The only way I could see something remotely like that happening is if the ATX psu was a shitty no name psu, that never had stable voltages to begin with, or you just got unlucky and a reliable psu went bad and jacked up the voltages, which can just as easily happen to any jamma psu also. As far as amps go, the boards take what they need, and leave the rest, regardless of psu type used. These days the common "decent" jamma psu should at least provide 15 amps on the +5 volt line, and a few amps on the +12. 1 amp minimum on the -5 too.
At any rate, if such a fear exist on something like that, regardless of the type of PSU used, then use fuses on each of the volt rails. Arcade power supplies can suffer just as much failure as any ATX psu, frying components, along with the pins off of the jamma connector as any shitty or defective ATX psu could. Anyone who would have you believe otherwise is a moron.
Dont believe me, call up any given arcade vendor that's been in the business for quite a few years, and ask them how many times they have had a jamma psu take out a board. I know a couple here with in my area with large piles of crap pcbs piled up that are that way due to the jamma psu taking them out.
Trust me, Ive seen it too much. Its why I stuck to ATX for EVERY Supergun I built and sold. In my experience I never had any failures with solid ATX power supplies running arcade hardware. They offer more power, higher reliability on heavy duty task, and I never got a single complaint or ran into a single issue ever in regards to them. There is a risk of psu failure with anything you use though, always, and I could always say I have just been lucky, but Ive also been picky as to what I use in any project. Better parts help put the odds much more in your favor.
If you choose a nice rock solid psu that can put out a good solid number of amps on its rails, you wont run into issues running more demanding pcbs like Primal Rage, MVS 6-slot, Hyper 64, System 246, or Naomi with the Capcom converter, unless the psu itself is just faulty. Heavy duty ones dont break a sweat compared to the average cookie cutter psu that will be working its butt off on hardware like that.
Either way it goes, if you want a solid psu, jamma wise, or ATX wise, you cant be cheap at all, you have to do research, and spend some decent cash, and pick the power supply that meets YOUR needs, regardless what anyone else tells you to do. Try to buy a new one too, and avoid a used one, as you have no idea how many hours of use a used one has had put on it.
Ok, so the task at hand, if I have, say a Dell 19 Inch Flatscreen monitor sitting around my house, an older one, would a jrok work for using it in my st-v cab?