NEC PC Engine Turbo Duo RX controller port issue

[Gunnder]

I have a duo rx where the controller port is finicky (ie: I need to put a small amount of downward pressure on it for it to work). Does anyone have any experience with this issue and a possible fix? I'm not exactly sure what the problem is, but it might be re-soldering the controller port inside? I've also recently purchased a new controller to rule out the actual controller that came with it. Still waiting on this new controller. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!

[Koa Zo]

I have a duo rx where the controller port is finicky (ie: I need to put a small amount of downward pressure on it for it to work). Does anyone have any experience with this issue and a possible fix? I'm not exactly sure what the problem is, but it might be re-soldering the controller port inside? I've also recently purchased a new controller to rule out the actual controller that came with it. Still waiting on this new controller. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!

Hi, yes I had the same issue with my Duo-R.
You'll need to open it up and resolder the connections.

The security screw on the bottom of my console was unlike any other I've ever seen, and despite significant prolonged searching I could not find a source for a matching securrty bit. Yes, there are bits out there sold as Pc-Engine or Duo bits, but none matched what was in my console.

Found the sollution on youtube. Take an old style hard-clear-plastic ball point pen, remove the ink, light the end of the shell on fire till it drips, blow it out, stick it in the screw hole, hold firmly against head of security screw, as it cools it will make a mold of the screw, then use that as the screw driver.
Maybe you wont have to resort to that!

Apparently the controller port is a common issue on these consoles. The ebay seller doujindance advertises that he always resolders the ports on Duos before selling

Good luck, let us know how you fare!

[Gunnder]

Thanks for the informative reply. Just a quick clairification: do you still think it is soldering issue if the controller works ok with downwards pressure? I guess I would have thought that if it needed resoldering no buttons would work at all no matter what jiggle or position it was in.

Also how is the resoldering job? I'm not the greatest at soldering and would hate to make it worse . I take it I would have to remove the old solder and replace with new?

[APE992]

Thanks for the informative reply. Just a quick clairification: do you still think it is soldering issue if the controller works ok with downwards pressure? I guess I would have thought that if it needed resoldering no buttons would work at all no matter what jiggle or position it was in.

Also how is the resoldering job? I'm not the greatest at soldering and would hate to make it worse . I take it I would have to remove the old solder and replace with new?

What you're describing is classically a solder issue. If a joint is cracked moving it will cause it to have electrical conductivity again resulting in what you see.

It isn't hard to do but it also isn't remotely hard to screw up.

[ApolloBoy]

The security screw on the bottom of my console was unlike any other I've ever seen, and despite significant prolonged searching I could not find a source for a matching securrty bit. Yes, there are bits out there sold as Pc-Engine or Duo bits, but none matched what was in my console.!

It's a Torx screw, I forget the size but you can get bits for Torx screws at most hardware stores.

[Koa Zo]

It's a Torx screw, I forget the size but you can get bits for Torx screws at most hardware stores.

Oddly, my Duo-RX has a regular Torx screw. My Duo-R has something different.

[ApolloBoy]

Oddly, my Duo-RX has a regular Torx screw. My Duo-R has something different.

Pretty sure it has Torx screws with the little bump in the center, that's what my Duo-R had before I replaced them with Phillips head screws.

[APE992]

Pretty sure it has Torx screws with the little bump in the center, that's what my Duo-R had before I replaced them with Phillips head screws.

That'd be security torx.

[Gunnder]

So opened up the Duo Rx to take a look at the solder points and I did not see anything strange or loose on the underside of the controller port where the pins and solder is located. Is this something I would able to see with the naked eye?

I was able to jimmy something by putting a little downwards pressure on the port before i closed up the system again and seems to be working fine with the added pressure. We will see how long that lasts lol

[APE992]

Only if you've got a trained eye for finding such things. A friend of mine couldn't get the odometer on his 89 Acura working and the internet swore up and down it was due to cracked solder joints. I come over to take a look and sure enough I found what he couldn't which was really obvious to me.

The added pressure will result in more breakage down the road and if you aren't lucky it'll create permanent issues. Simply fluxing the joints and adding a bit of solder should fix it.

[MaxWar]

Its no wonder the solder joint get damaged on that tiny Din plug they use on the PC engine. My Duo-R has the same problem and I know its not the controller. I have not looked into it yet as it needs a full recap too. The audio Crackle like hell. Ill just do both fixes at the same time eventually. In the meantime I just dont play it.

[Gunnder]

Would i have to remove the old solder or just go overtop the old etc? As you can see I'm not very knowlegable in this field, and would prolly screw it up.

If anyone knows of someone local to the Toronto (Canada) area that is confident in this type of repairs, please let me know . I also need to get my turbo express sound caps replaced (sound only works on headphones)...

Worst case I would have to ship it to someone I guess....

Only if you've got a trained eye for finding such things. A friend of mine couldn't get the odometer on his 89 Acura working and the internet swore up and down it was due to cracked solder joints. I come over to take a look and sure enough I found what he couldn't which was really obvious to me.

The added pressure will result in more breakage down the road and if you aren't lucky it'll create permanent issues. Simply fluxing the joints and adding a bit of solder should fix it.

[APE992]

Would i have to remove the old solder or just go overtop the old etc? As you can see I'm not very knowlegable in this field, and would prolly screw it up.

If anyone knows of someone local to the Toronto (Canada) area that is confident in this type of repairs, please let me know . I also need to get my turbo express sound caps replaced (sound only works on headphones)...

Worst case I would have to ship it to someone I guess....

You wouldn't be required to remove the old solder and you might be able to get away with a simple flux and reflow job but there could be something worse on the board than just a cracked joint. My friend's Acura had the solder crack cleanly away from the solder pad but it could be like my old Master System where the power plug ripped the solder pad off the PCB which forced me to repair it with some epoxy and wire to prevent further damage to the rest of the circuit board. In your case I'd highly doubt there is anything worse than a simple reflow needed but you can't be sure until you crack the case open and take a good look with a trained eye.

I could take a look but shipping across the border wouldn't exactly be cheap.